rtbiscuit

as chesterfield says its a copy of the greddy one, i have one sat in my garage, the greddy one is dead easy to fit, and fitment is perfect, as for this one i don't know. from envy the greddy one was about £260

looking at the crease in the door it looks like you got personal with a lampost, wouldn't be suprised if you un earthed it as well. looks like you hit with quite some force. me thinks you were taken surprise by a corner. glad you were able to walk away, i can sympathise did something similar years ago off a roudabout.

found some bulbs but it refers to fitment at the base, and i'm unsure what the base fitting is for our bulbs.

same as xstrct, ive always been taken, thats why so few people have had real men, we're a rare breed

i'd be interested if the price was good.

Suppose its easier to start with the problem, my passengers side dipped beam has blown. so i need to find a replacement. i have decided that at the same time i'll change out lots of the other bulbs at the same time and up date the look while i have the wheel lining out.i have used the search function and had a read and found some information. so far i have tracked down some side lights which are quad LED and wheite which are the ones bullet magnet recommended the question is can these also be used in the number plate at the rear and in the boot space, and would one extra pair be enough i.e. one in the boot and one in the number plate, or do both sections take 2 bulbs. in other words do i order 2 sets or 3? also does anyone have any reccomendations on a good indicator bulb, i want to get rid of the ornage ones and put something silver that flashes orange. also when it comes to the dipped bulbs i know i need an H7 55w bulb and something to do with D2R but i've never played around with bulbs and don't fully understand if the connections are all the same, can i use different bulbs, what are good and bad etc. i know some people use philips, and i've had a browse on ebay, but can't tell whats good and bad etc. does anyone know of a good supplier of automotive bulbs and point me in the right direction and possibly advice on what to avoid. i know PIAA do stuff but its quite expensive. and nissan is a rip off.

How thick is it bud? I want to do the silver trim pieces on my steering wheel as one's a bit worn... You think that'd be a realistic application? I know IanS16 has stick on carbon on those parts and they look good If you can take them off the steering wheel to work on then they should me dead easy to do. That's going to be my next job as mine look a little tired as well. Vinyl is thin same as normal vinyl; probably no thicker than tin foil.

thanks guys really appreciate the comments. if people want some vinyl to do it them selves i can post them some... for a fee of course

i can supply the nismo bonnet and boot decals if you want them.

thats a cracking car, you can see how much time has gone into that. very smart, really love the orange zed touch on the rear strut, very unique and really sets that strut off. i have some lovely dark orange engine bay lettering for the carbon covers that would really finish off the engine bay

which metal piece are you refering to the whole lot is plastic The silver rear strut cover..!! absolutly nothing, it was already attatched to the car, just removed it, took the Zed badge off, covered it and re-assembled it all. only thing i paid for was the vinyl.

which metal piece are you refering to the whole lot is plastic

lol sounds like you had fun, thanks again for poping round and helping fix the horn problem, and showing me your K1. if you want yours doing as well let me know.

looks A+ - who does the vinyl? i buy it in bulk from my supplier, minimum order is 1 metre in length and its 610mm wide.

not sure i haven't sat in the drivers seat since fitting but it should reduce it as it is darker. you will probably still see the Zed but not all the siver as well

Got bored this afternoon so i thought i'd have a go at knocking up something in my spare time. my current silver rear strut brace cover got damamged a while back when my wife got me to cram in to giant flower pots and they scratched the paint. and i have been meaning for ages to fix or hide it so i had a thought, i had recently ordered in some Carbon fibre vinyl for another job, and thought i'd have a go at covering the rear strut cover with it. the advantage is it doesn't need to be perfect around the edges as they are hidden down behind plastic trim. the job is by no means perfect and i need to refine my application method and use spray water to help get air bubbles out better, but this is how it came out i used a hair dryer to heat up the vinyl and form it into the dimples, i also removed the Zed badge first and re applied it after so it has a seamles finish. here it is put back in the car and through the window don't know what people think but for now it givesd a better finish than what was there, and the big advantage is that the whole thing is completely reversible, so if you get board it can be easily removed and returned to stock.

cheers mate, glad to have people on here who have good electrical knowledge. bulletmagnet and his mate are coming over in a minute so we'll see what we can find out.

From the checks you have done I wouldn't have thought the horns were at fault. If the horn fuse is out and when the lights are on bumps etc cause the horn to blip, I would have thought that somehow the voltage for the lights is reaching the wiring for the horn. Possibly bad insulation at some point. Does it ever happen over bumps with lights off? I hope you get it sorted. never happens with the lights off, only with lights on

the plot thickens today. managed to have a go at sorting the horn problem, went back over all the earthing points all seem tight and well grounded. so next i went to try and find where the horns grounding points are, and i couldn't work out where they went. so i ended up just pulling the fuse in th engine bay marked horn. got in the car hit the horn button, nothing, thought i had got rid of it as the horn didn't work. haha problem solved. erh nope. drove home from the pool club tonight turned lights on got 10 yards down the road and the horn went off. turn the lights down to side lights problem stops. waited till i got out onto the dual carriage way and turned them back on, beeped for a couple of seconds and then was fine. for the whole 30 min drive, nothing. until i stopped at burger king pulled away from the drive through and off it went again. so it seems: - still goes off even thought the horn has no fuse (or at least the connection from the cabin to the horn has no connection) - only triggered when the lights are on dipped. - only happens at low speeds or big bumps at low speeds - because it seems to still happen without the fuse in i think it can't be the cabin side of the horn i.e dodgy connection at the steering wheel. - bulletmagnet used the exact same earthing points and this hasn't happened to him so i don't think its the grounding kit as all points are tight. so i'm coming to the conclusion that it must be the horns themselves. they seem to have a simple plug in harness to them so i'm going to put the fuse back in and disconnect them direct at the horn. that should temporarily cure it. and then i shall have to order some new horns. noticed the advertised one from the USA on the previous page, wondered if there ws any UK suppliers of them. if not looks like a yank order is needed. anyone have any other ideas. if i change the horns and it still happens then i'm stumped

worked ok, but also added foam padding to the lid which has worked a treat, only now it seems the rattle is still there but i think it is rattling on the bonnet, i can see on the carbon lid where its rubbing, just got to work it out on the bonnet so i can put some apdding there and kill it completely.

nothing on the calendar, will check my main computer t see if outlook has anything on it.

i might be there 2, but don't know yet, for some reason the 19th rings a bell and i think i'm doing something. will let you all know.

cats get hot, would think no more than an oven so i'm guessing top wack would be around 220 c, but thats a guess.

i have the same problem, the zed is like a turd magnet, you could park in an empty carpark and someone would still come and park next to you.

i've used the stuff with plumbing jobs, not sure how that stuff would cope at those temperatures though?