OnlyAfro

Usually I just Photoshop, but there always 3DTuning and Need for Speed games, both of which are pretty awful, but better than nothing.

Veilside.

Question is, do you want to attach anything to it that could either prevent it deploying correctly or be launched at you if it goes off? I guess you could flock it? Maybe wrap / re-trim it?

Was referring to these ones:

Stock wheels are 17" and come with Brembos.

Arguably, if you want all driver aids off, it might make more sense to just disconnect the ABS module / fuse, ideally with a switch, but that just needs a switch and 2 wires, so doesn't make much sense to integrate into a PCB circuit. It could be run in parallel with this module however (just 2 wires and a switch), allowing the user to progressively disable the assists: - OEM Button under dash for TCS off - cs2000's module for VDC and TCS off - Your own separate switch for all systems off

That thread references pulling the fuse, whereas cs2000's module just intercepts the yaw sensors module. Disconnecting: - The "stability" fuse, just like unplugging the ABS module, disables everything. - The yaw sensor (in the centre tunnel), just disables VDC. - The brake switch signal just disables the brake-throttle limiter. - The brake fuse disables brake-throttle limiter and your brake lights. Hope that clarifies things.

It won't affect ABS, disconnecting the yaw sensor is just for VDC. To disable ABS (and VDC + TCS), the easiest way it to unplug (or switch a wire of) the cylindrical connector from the ABS module. That way your handbrake light won't come on and low brake fluid warnings will still be operable. As for burnouts, @Daisyduke, they require the brake switch signal to be disconnected to prevent the brake-throttle limiter kicking in. Most people pull / switch the fuse, but that causes you to lose your brake lights. In order to keep your brake lights, the best way is to intercept the signal to the ECU (I think it's pin 122) and install a switch. I'm sure cs2000 could add functionality for swtiching ABS and burnouts

£90 seems excessive. You could just get some springs with a very mild drop for that. I'd just man up and cut the rubber spring mounts though.

I believe the restrictions were a myth. It was later cleared up to just be a case of less aggressive throttle curves in 1st - 3rd, but with 100% accel still being 100% throttle. I think a friend has an OBD!! cable, so I'll see if I can borrow it and get a stock ROM to compare against.

I understand MoTeC throttle tables, so it depends how different it is, but should hopefully all make sense. I'd assume the PID gains are locked away and shouldn't need to be messed with if Nissan have calibrated it properly. From reading the UpRev tuning guide, the throttle has a "master" non-linear calibration, and then changing the x-axis values in those tables just scales the throttle against that curve, presumably with different tables for each gear if my understanding of the standard 1st - 3rd reduction in sensitivity is correct.

Has anyone developed a good throttle map? Should be pretty universal, making it a great, cheap mod any owner can do without the cost of a full remap. Really tempted to get a cable and have a play. Would someone mind sending me a copy of their ROM so I can fiddle?

R34 and they didn't make a GTS variant?

Nice gurgle on deceleration and flamey pops on fast downshifts.

Mine pops and bangs without a fancy map or decats

When warm, it should be 14psi or above at idle. That's fine.

Power mods are a waste of money on a 350z. The differences are negligible unless you start spending serious cash, ideally FI. The plenum spacer on it's own makes no difference on a Rev Up, but combined with an MREV2 or a *modified DE lower plenum, there are some gains to be had. That being said, as per my first comment, the gains are small and not really worth the time or effort - your money would be better spent on handling mods (adjustable coilovers, solid / poly bushes and mounts, stubby aerial, adjustable suspension arms, ARBs, rear wiper delete, and bracing / swaybars) *Basically a much cheaper DIY option that involves trimming down the original DE lower plenum to replicate an MREV2, There's guides detailing it somewhere if you have a Google.

You have the facelift (Rev Up) loom, so you've almost certainly got a Rev Up. Best way to tell is the timing chain cover, DE left, Rev Up DE right, with variable intake and exhaust cam timing: *Uprev is the remap

So the SVJ is 300kg lighter and 15 seconds faster than the SV? It's almost as if that extra weight was hindering it's performance

Well, yeah. The thing that made the GT-R special was you got supercar performance for sports car money. If you can now buy a faster, lighter and cheaper car, why would you buy some some fat, ugly, overpriced Datsun. You've said multiple times that the weight doesn't hinder the performance. If it's faster when lighter, the weight is hindering the performance. Yes, weight as a number doesn't matter. If it performs just like a GT2 RS and weighs 4 tonnes that would be fine, but it won't, because physics.

The Viper is just a massive engine in a lightweight package compared to the high tech, AWD GT-R, which also happens to be 50% more expensive - hardly the bargain it used to be. I'd be willing to bet a 2-tonne GT-R could never beat the GT2 RS, especially considering the only faster, heavier car is the 1300+ hp electric NIO EP9. Yes, it'd be impressive if a 2 tonne ICE car did beat it, but that doesn't change the fact that it would be even faster if it was lighter.

In 2007 it wasn't an issue, they made a relatively cheap and very fast car, but the weight still hindered performance, just less so than losing it would have hindered cost. However, they want the new one to be “the fastest super sports car in the world", which probably means they are aiming for a top spot at The Ring, which means competing with the 911 GT2/3 RS, Viper ACR and Hurucan Performante, which don't weigh 2 tonnes and for good reason.

Am I missing something or are you claiming the performance of a car and how quick it is are unrelated? How can weight not hinder performance when you are saying (in a roundabout way) that lighter = quicker?

Can't do any ECU changes without first having the UpRev licence, which is something like £200.

RS Tuning in Leeds might be your closest option, but you'd have to check if they do the extra ARC features.. Failing that, TDI North are near Manchester and are associated with Abbey Motorsport, who definitely do the full works.