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OnlyAfro

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About OnlyAfro

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  1. That was my intention, I didn't reinstall the fuse. However with this lockdown I've got lots of time to ponder and not much chance for driving.
  2. Went to compare behaviour with the fuse in and out, and got the same result: Ignition acc - power sockets live, instrument cluster and triple gauges off ignition on - power sockets, instrument cluster and triple gauges live Which raises 3 questions: 1) Have I misinterpreted the diagrams (it's from the NA service manual, dunno if there's a difference to UK) 2) If behaviour is the same, is the wire even doing anything? 3) If I'm reading it correctly, the service manual implies the instrument cluster / triple gauges should come on with ignition acc, but that doesn't sound right, and it doesn't happen.
  3. @ZMANALEX, any insight?
  4. In the interior fuse box (driver's footwell), I have a purple wire with a 15A fuse in the middle that looks very much non-OEM and I can't work out why it's there or what's it's doing. I've been through the service manual, and although I'm still non the wiser, I at least know what it's connecting. There's a red wire coming from 11A and a blue wire from 3B. This purple wire is spliced between the 2. So mine looks like this: P/SCKT refers to the 12V power sockets A/C refers to the air conditioner METER refers to the speedometer, tachometer, temp. and fuel gauges 3METER refer to the triple meter (battery volts, oil pressure, speedo/clock/etc) From the above diagrams, it looks like 11A and 3B are active at the same time and are both fused at 15A, so I don't see what splicing between them achieves. Here's some actual pics for reference too in case I've messed up: Thanks in advance.
  5. On the strut? Not touched it, but I'll check when I get a chance.
  6. Problem seems to have gotten worse, but I did a bit more investigation... Jacked the car up so the FR wheel was just off the floor and put a pry bar underneath the tyre to apply upwards force. Felt the arms for movement, but everything seemed fine except a very slight movement in the upper arm ball joint. However, rocking the pry bar left / right instead of up / down you can feel the knock much more in the upper arm ball joint. Edit: Can feel the same knock in the balljoint on the other side, so guess it rules that out. Also noticed a knock when stationary, with the wheels on the floor, when rocking the steering wheel left / right, which is worse with the engine off. Getting underneath while someone is rocking the steering wheel there is a severe knock heard and felt in the tie rods / rack on both sides of the car, but I'm not sure if this is normal? Think it might be a red herring though as the knock is never heard when the left wheel hits bumps, only the right wheel or when tapping the brake lightly, unless it's the inner tie rod on the RHS?
  7. Here's my old transverse link. Any measurements that can be taken with verniers or is it obvious from to the eye?
  8. Replaced compression rods (red) and transverse links (blue), both left and right side. Bushes were worn in both, but not faulty or knocking. Old transverse link is still in acceptable condition, but old compression rod was destroyed (ballpoint thread bashed up and bush ripped out).
  9. Seating cone is the same. I still have the old arm, so I can swap it back in to test. Any reason you suggest lateral arm over compression arm?
  10. I've got a knock coming from the front right. Description: Only present at low speeds (<30mph) and worse the slower you go Only occurs with sudden jolts (hitting speed bumps / large pot holes / driving over cat's eyes) Single clunk when it happens (per bump) No steering judder or jerking Braking whilst hitting the bump seems to prevent the knock Factors: Front lower lateral and compression arms have just been replaced (with ebay arms) on left and right and the knock was present immediately after, but the left side is fine Replacing these arms involved disconnection of the drop links, shocks, tie rods and cross brace The nut on the right side compression arm was seized and had to be chiselled off violently, sending shocks through the rest of the suspension that could have caused something else to fatigue(?) Car and suspension (other than lower arms and tie rods) are 12 years old Step taken: Nuts checked several times to ensure they are torqued Pry bar used on components to check for play to no avail (not really managed to check shock with it though) Car bounced (hung off the front ARB and yanked repeatedly with entire body weight), but didn't produce a knock Thoughts Perhaps a worn shock or top mount, not sure if that would only knock at low speed though? Ball joint could be faulty in new compression arm that was installed, but can't recreate with pry bar Drop links are often suggested, but they usually chatter constantly rather than producing a single large clunk (will try drive with them disconnected at the weekend to rule them out though) Perhaps brake related, but no idea what it would be Any suggestions? Thanks
  11. OnlyAfro

    HiLow

    https://www.facebook.com/donutmedia/playlist/1575581095910287/ Donut Media are modifying 2x Zeds. Unfortunately only seems to be on Facebook at the moment. "HiLow is where we compare high end-expensive parts to really cheap ones to see if there really is a performance difference."
  12. Android tends not to work unless using an early version.
  13. Just connected the pipes to the wrong pumps. Pulling will now activate the rear.

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