Rob350

I had the quick release clips for my hardtop, literally pull 4 clips and the roof comes off in 30 seconds, I tended to just take my hard top off at the weekend when I would use the car the most as i work 9 till 5 so wouldn't really have roof down at night ( But I did a few times, I'd get some funny looks aswell lol) also just left it off over the summer months... I mean weeks lol, but you are right the Oem one does squeak a bit because of the rubber seals, but there is ways to stop it squeaking, you make the clips tighter so i doesn't move when its in place, it took me about 6 attempt over 3 months to perfect it but got there eventually

The lower redline is just in America, they had a 2.2l engine with the facelift in 2004 that had the lower redline but more torque. My 2006 revved to 9k as they all have the AP1 engine in the UK. The most sort after ones tend to be the 2004-2006 as they pay less tax but are the facelift models which look a bit nicer. After 04 uk models may rev to 9k, but the start of red line was 8250 wasn't it?? Where as pre 04 models the red line started at 9k. Id say if you wanted a daily car that you were going to track you want 02 - 04 for the stiffer stock suspension and the fact it doesn't have the clutch delay valve, but if your after one as an investment and just to enjoy the car without tracking then 04 to 06 as they do look abit nicer and the suspension is softer. Although you can put facelift bumpers on prefacelift cars and have the best of both but don't get pre 02 they have the niggles that got revised in september 02 I think and a crapy plastic sheet rear window, Also try to get one with a hard top, they look a lot better with it on, warmer, quieter, and they don't really add anymore value to the car so you may as well, when i was buying and selling mine there were cars the same age and mileage with and without hardtops for a very similar price, i had one and it was well worth waiting for one with the hardtop for the same price and mileage. When I came to selling mine I could have sold it for the same price with or without the hardtop, I should have sold them both seperatly for more monies, the h ardtops were selling on ebay for around £600 or £700

I had a 2003 AP1(1st gen, 9k rpm) I bought it with 105k miles on and owned it for a year, put 12k miles on it and part exed it for £500 less than I bought it for and came home in a zed the 2000 - 2004 have stiffer stock suspension and the 9k rpm, they revised some stuff from the first model after 2002, I.e glass rear window in soft top and tweaked the suspension. After 2004 (facelift) they made it more dailyable, softer suspension and dropped the red line to 8250 which increased the torque by like 5pounds per foot, and installed an annoying clutch delay valve (But this can easily be removed) aswell as slightly changing the bumpers and interior Pre 04 models were known to have slightly weaker valve retainers and would crack if an incorrect downshift was made (5th to 2nd instead of 5th to 4th) so they strengthened them after 04. you wouldnt know know you had a cracked retainer untill months or years later when one would suddenly drop into the valve . You can roughly check them when the rocker cover is off by slightly tapping them with a screwdriver and listen for one that has a different tone, but will never really know unless you remove the valve retainers and springs as they crack from underneath. Oil consumption wasn't to bad, mine didnt burn any if i stayed out of vtec, and would only burn roughly less than a quarter after a good 30 min vtec sesh lol The rears were known to feather abit like the zed, if you had a tricky noise on start up that would be the timing chain tensioner, its an easy fix and good haggling tool as they are £250ish new from honda, but you can just unbolt off the side of the engine (2 bolts) slightly dismantle the tensioner and get the worm drive out and sandblast it to make it rough again and hey presto no rattle and £250 better off , there's a vid on YouTube of how to do it. The s2000 didn't get ANY rust protection at all underneath out the shop unless done by the owner (think honda were trying to save weight), so make sure you have a good check, as the geo setup bolts are known to seize up good and proper on even only slightly rusty ones and have to be cut out and replaced at about £100 each All models were plagued with an eml code for random missfire, not every s2000 would get this but a he'll of a lot of them got it, set off mainly because of cold weather, but could be caused by about 20 different things, from engines fubard to needing new plugs, I had it and it turned out to be dirty injectors, got them professionally cleaned and never saw it again. The soft tops would tend to rip in the rear corners above your head from the bar's rubbing ever time it goes up and down, this can be resolved by putting some material between then bar corner and roof fabric, again video on YouTube. All in all though brilliant cars, never any massive problems (its a honda.. come on) 00 - 04 are near track ready out the box and the 9k rpm is the beans these cars are masivly going up in value now, especially the 1st gen ones below 50 k miles, in fact all this talking about them is making me regret swapping mine for the zed I wonder if i could part ex my z back for s2000 lol That's my ownership of the car anyway, as you can probably tell I REALLY liked it and did a lot of research and will 100% be definatly owning another one after the z probably. looking forward to seeing yours

One of these?? Direct fit, comes with connector I think

Iv had the bank 2 sensor out and replaced with a second hand one so fitting a spacer shouldnt be a problem what i think is strange is why am I getting this light in the 1st place?? Iv got Oem cats so I shouldn't really get this code unless the cat is bad, or the o2 sensor is faulty? I don't just want to fit the spacer to get rid of the eml light, I'd rather fix whatever the issue is.

The liquid is spraying but the arms arnt coming out of the bumper, its just spraying behind the bumper, like there's something stopping the arms from coming forward out the bumper

So you'd recommend replacing the cat??

Cheers for the reply, changed the o2 sensor after the cat (technicly in the cat) on the passenger side, passenger side is bank 2. Did you replace the cat?

If done some googling, and found out the washer bottle needs a lot of fluid in, bloody he'll it takes about 5 litres lol, So I filled to brim, tried again, they spray water... but all over the floor lol, the divers side one comes out a little bit, (it twists, like its catching on something on right hand side of the washer so only the left side of the washer slightly comes out) and the passenger one doesn't come out at all, What's the crack there guys? I'm going to have a go at removing my bumper sometime this week, but on all the writeup on removing the bumper you have to disconnect the washers, so i won't be able to try the washers with the bumper off Any thoughts?? It's MOT time next month so don't want to fail on the fact these crappy useless washers don't work

04 DE, when I push the washer button next to the tcs button, it buzzes like the pumps working but the washers don't come out the bumper or spray anything, iv filled up the window screen washer bottle so it's got plenty of water, Anybody any tips as to what to check to get them working? Will the bumper need removing? Also I think I read somewhere that it could possibly fail MOT if they not working, is that true? I'm not that bothered if they don't work tbh, iv never understood why any sports car would need them, unless they were going greenlaneing and tailgating the land rover in front of them lol Appreciate your help guys

What wheel brush was that you were using?

What sort of economy should i get? I'm getting 22mpg when I'm driving round the village and town where I live, changing gear at 3k rpm (30 mph zones, a little duel carriageway, a little bit of traffic) when I'm on the motorway I get between 35 and 39ish is this average with other people for a 04 DE with 90k ?

Iv got the p1147 (just the passenger side), iv got k1 cat back, came on the car, was fine for the first two months when I bought it, then this code came on in November, when I clear the code and it comes back on in around 30miles. I've changed the o2 sensor for a second hand one and its no different. Should I just buy 1 o2 spacer for the passenger side?

Had a quick route on YouTube this was the only othe video that sounded similar but mine wasn't as bad as this one

SOLVED...... the gear knob had vibrated loose just a little bit for it wobble a tiny amount to cause the noise, But while your here, should the body of the passenger side fuel damper tick? I can feel it tapping inside the body when i touch it?? IGNORE ALL THIS BELOW \/ \/ \/ \/ \/ \/ \/ \/ This noise happend today for the first time, the video is in 3rd gear over 2500 3k rpm. But it carried on thruough 4th and 5th The noise used to happen but ALOT quieter, and only over 4500rpms, I thought it could just be vibrations of the dashboard, or gear stick maybe? I do have the noise baring when idle Could it be fuel damper? You can feel The body of the passenger side fuel damper behind the engine tapping away when I was idling looking around, The body of the fuel damper used to tap away so i changed it for 2nd hand one about 4weeks ago and the body still ticked after i changed it so i assumed it was normal? It's the vibrating tapping noise The random items have been on the dashboard for weeks so i don't think its the cupholder or plastic things in the cubby vibrating It really scared me when it happend, It never did it that loud before or at such low revs, Anything you guys think would be helpful. The car doesnt burn any oil its a 04 De 90k miles Cheers

How easy do you think it would be to fit another Bose subwoofer behind the passenger seat?? Could I just join into the wires coming off the drivers side Bose speaker?

Anyone tried Ark survival evolved on Xbox?? Similar thing to seven days to die, its like minecraft, only 100 times better

I live about 10 mins from Blackburn, I wouldn't want to spend more that £20 in that town lol and definatly wouldn't want to buy a car from there, been to a couple of car sellers round there over the years, and everyone turned out to be a rotten egg, even though the sellers would say the cars were "well looked after"

I'm ....... "Mr August"

Love the calender, as for suggestions.. maybe put the forum name of whoever's picture it is in small in the corner, Also I'm gunna pm you on Friday mate

How come?? Just to try?

Coupe

What do think to mps 2s, 3s or 4s compared to mpss for slightly cheaper option? I'm finding mpss at 245 45 r18 at £170 and 225 45 r18 at £150 And I need a full alignment done at £100ish That's like 750 for tyres, byy eckkkk, (as the northerners say)

Cheers, I absolutely hate having Mismatched tyres, its not too bad at the minute because I'm not doing any spirited driving at all with these on. Also because its been wet and cold since I bought it so i am yet to find out how well the handling is and what the characteristics are of the car so I can compare it to my honda s2000 I had before this, (which handled like a beast, light and nimble, massive grip and didn't really oversteer because there isnt much tourqe) I had an ap1 so there was no traction control and 9k rpm, it only oversteered when you pushed too much really, unlike the z which can kickout easily with traction off, so ill have to change my fast driving style to suit I think, but dryer weather will be on its way soon and i cant wait to learn the limits of the car and take it for a good blast on the twistys. Every sports car ive owned ive always changed the tyres to matching Oem tyres all round unless it came with some, so this will be the first time I'm trying non Oem tyres, The reviews are really good for the ad08 and ad08r, just need a little bit of heat in them first before giving it the full beans, I'd rather have sticky performance tyres that need changing every 12 to 18 months than average tyres that last longer to be honest.

The two rears are nankang ultra sport ns2 and 1 front is nankang ultra sport ns2 and the other is atrezzo zsr (budget tyre i think) they came on the car when I got it in September, but there all near brand new, so I'll probably just sell them off as part worns on ebay or something, I don't know what geo its got, I know iv got spacers all round and eibech lowering springs on. I know a full geo needs doing I can see the rears have abit of camber, the the fronts look pretty straight though in March I'm planning on getting all 4 tyres and alignment done probably to factory specs, unless you think a slightly different setup would be better?