Rob350

Nurburgring in June for my birthday, 9 days there in an apartment with my gf, many laps will be done in the 350 this time I went last year on a little road trip in my s2000. 2 nights in bruge, 3 nights in amsterdam, 3 nights at nurburgring and 2nights just south of Calais on the beach, Top down cruising through the german mountains in 25 deg c sunshine then thrashing round the ring with rarris, lambos, and every other sports car you could think of... what could be better lol

1. Stephanie + 1 Travelling from Surrey 2. Reece + 1 Travelling from East Sussex 3. Rob350 + 1 travelling from Lancashire near preston

This is what im hopeing, i have a k1 with baffles in so its loud anyway although I seem to think it has got abit more farty and droney recently, but at the same time it Could just be my imagination. I'm hopefully going to get it on a ramp this weekend to find a leak, if i can't find a leak I'm going to get a second hand cat off jez from Horsham. Thanks for the response, im a little bit more optimistic now that its a leak... fingers crossed

I've had a P0430 (cat bank 2 below efficiency) for a while now, replaced 02 sensor.... no joy, swapped bank 1 and 2 sensors around.... still bank 2 below efficiency So now im thinking my cat is dead ... poor oscar lol do you all think the same?? Replace the cat??? Also does anyone have any cats for sale?? Preferably standard cats no test pipes or hfc. If got a 2004 DE Good day to you all

A meet between the north west and north east for more people to tag on. East meets west

Haha Wow... that is impressive. Tell the man to put the lottery on, its his lucky day lol looks like he's just driven up really close for a good pic

I'm interested in this D.I.Y skirt aswell.... do tell....

I'm in the same boat mate, my car was already lowered when I bought it, I didn't realise I'd need camber arms till last week, im about to get all 4 tyres (yokohoma advan neova ad08r) and geo and didn't want to waste my tyres, so I bought the rear camber arms, 180 quid well spent because my tyres will last a lot longer and there easy to fit, I'll fit them myself

I'd go 30mm drop it gives an even gap around the tyre to the well. Drop it 30 and wait a few weeks to get the rear arms, youl only regret going 20 wishing you'd gone 30 lol, or drop 30 and leave the arms and just run abit of rear camber. you really don't need the front arms so i wouldn't worry about them

I spoke to cougar store last week as Iv got 30mm lowered already and am going to get new tyres so want them to wear evenly, cougar store said definatly adjustable rear camber arms needed ( around £200 ) to get to Oem geo specs and the fronts will be very very close to Oem geo specs without anything, if you did want perfect front geo the arms are around £450 for the cheapest branded arms. Obviously I decided to leave the fronts lol Just got the rears

Mine turned out to be my aftermarket radio drawing 350 milliamps from the battery. 1st I used a multimeter to test the alternator was charging enough when everything was switched on and car running.it was ok I then took out the battery, trickle charged it till it was fully charged and left it in my garage for a week and tested it after a week and the battery still held 12.58v after a week, so battery was ok. Then i put the battery back in the car, went for a 10 min drive to make sure the battery was fully charged in the car, then opened the bonnet and left the car for an hour to see if the car had a "sleep mode", which I dont think it does, then tested the amp draw from the battery, I got 0.35 amps. I started removing fuses one at a time and putting them back till the amps dropped, when I pulled the radio fuse out it instantly dropped to 0.01. I recommend trying testing the alternator, then battery, then parasitic draw test and im sure youl find out what's going on.

It's an aftermarket clarion CD player, how do i find out which wires are the perminant and ignition?? The CD player was already fitted when I bought the car, and no manuals came with it

Well I found the problem guys, first fuse i pulled was the radio fuse and it instantly dropped from 0.35 (350 milliamps... coincidence) down to 0.01 (10 milliamps) Question is now, what is the likely to be the problem with the wiring??? And how do i find the problem?? Any ideas. I'm going to have a go to at sorting it myself if i can find some advice, if not I'll take it to an auto electrition at least I know where the problem is now after being told off loads of people i know that it was a dud battery lol

I set the multimeter to 10 amps, and got a reading of 0.35 with everything turned off and doors closed etc, I read on the internet and watched YouTube vids saying anything below 0.5 was ok... or am I wrong??? Do I have a decent draw?? Whats acceptable??? 0.05 or 0.1 maybe??

I put a lot of research into buying one of these because they are sooooo cheap, but changed my mind and got a famous s2000 instead. In my hours of research, I read people saying it'll go through somthing like 1 litre of oil every full tank of fuel, obviously if you tootle everywhere it will be less. Also the many many many people were getting blown engines before 50 k, hence why there so cheap and that's what put me off getting one, you'd have to make sure you always had 2k spare for a engine replacement. On the other hand everyone said how well they handled and looked which i must agree with, I really do like to look of them and the sneaky rear doors lol, I'd just be too scared to give it a thrashing for fear of blowing the engine. Should have got a 231 bhp one though, the price whould have only been a tiny bit more, like an extra £500 at most. But I'm sure heel love the car and if he gets it compression checked etc so he knows just what kind of condition the engine is In and go from there.

Been out today to test for draw on my battery.... and there isn't any, it's around 0.35 amps.... so I'm confused now. What else could be causing my battery to lose charge from 5 at night till 8 next morning?? The weather isn't as cold at night anymore so it does last abit longer, but if left for 24 to 30 hours it will be below 12v to start. Iv had the battery out and trickle charged it to full then left for 5 days by my garage door so the temperature is similar to being in my car, and after 5 days there's still 12.48v in it, so this is telling me the battery is ok. The battery is a Bosch s4 008 with, 62 amps and 510 cca I think, Nissans spec, is 65 amps and 550 cca The minimal difference in the spec and my battery wouldn't cause it lose charge so fast would it??? When car is running my voltmeter says 14v so my alternator is ok too. I really am stumped.... what do you guys think??

Gunna give ^^^^ this a go today as it was raining the other day... Will I be ok doing the above ???

Got myself a voltmeter today, so if been googleing and watching YouTube vids of all the different pictures and symbols on them tonight to see whats what lol there more complicated than I thought. Anyway tomorrow im guna have a go at pulling fuses to find where this draw is... I'm going to make sure the battery is fully charged, turn everything single thing off, then take the negative side off the battery and set the meter to 10 amps put 1 prong on the neg terminal and 1 on the disconnected cable. Anything above 0.50 Milliamps is too much draw, then I'm going to pull fuses one at a time till the draw gets below 0.50 Milliamps and thats my fouling circuit. Im going to start with interior lights, alarm and radio first as people have suggested to be the favourite. Quick question...... Has anyone done this before/does it sound like the correct way to do it???? Also, if I'm just pulling fuses and putting them back, could this cause any problems when I connect the battery back up and try to use the car again??? I.e management lights etc??? I'm just a little nervous to start pulling all the fuses one by one, like the ecu fuse, abs fuse, and all the other important complicated circuits etc Cheers guys, I WILL find this little devil in my car !!!!

This is one of the 1st things I'm going to check when I get a multimeter, I might just pull the dash out tomorrow and see if I can see anything funky. Also the car has bright white interior bulbs installed in the front and boot light, do these draw electricity even when switched off??? I might pull out the bulbs and see what happens. I know if I leave the interior light switch to on (only comes on when door is open or keys are pulled out) one of the bulbs stays ever so slightly on, like extreamly dim perminantly, but like I say I have had the interior light switched off (so it doesn't come on with doors open or pulling keys out) for the last 2months

Thanks for your thoughts and experiances guys, I think all I can do now is get hold of a multimeter and firstly make sure there is a draw, and then start pulling fuses, iv had my interior light turned off for the last few months and the CD player turned off for the last week. It does have a clarion single din CD player installed that came with the car, possibly that might be wired incorrectly. its weird because It didn't have this problem untill a few days after Xmas when the temp dropped way below 0, since then my new batteries have been fine, I could leave them days without a problem, after about a month of everyday use this issue occurs, where leaving the car for more than 14 hours there is only about 11.5v showing on the in car voltmeter. The last couple of days iv trickle charged the original battery i replaced after Xmas to fully charged and left it in the garage and tested it every morning for a couple of days to see what its losing in 24 hours and in 3 days its only dropped a tiny tiny bit, so that shows the original battery wasn't the problem in the 1st place I think, At least I have 2 bosch s4s now, not a bad thing lol

Long story but please bare with me... Basically I bought the car in September last year, everything fine for 3 months, just after Xmas we had some really cold days and nights, my battery (bosch s4) wouldn't hold charge overnight (would be showing about 11v on voltmetre in morning when trying to start) Once jump started the voltmetre would show just over 14v indicating the alternator is working. So I put it down to cold weather killing my battery, I bought a new yuassa battery and everything was fine for about a month showing just over 12v every morning on voltmetre before starting and 14v once started. After a month the same problems started occurring (struggled to hold charge overnight, showing just under 12v in the morning but the weather wasn't as cold) So I took the battery back and said the battery is goosed please swap it. I got a new bosch s4 battery as replacement, again everything fine for about a month, In the last 2 weeks same thing again. I turn the car off at 5 after driving home from work and by half 7 next morning voltmetre is showing just below 12v and has only just been starting (literally on the last crank before loosing power) If I leave it for the 14 hours between 5 and half 7, there I just enough juice to start but at the weekend I left it from maybe 1 o'clock in the afternoon and at 7 30 next morning it had to be jumped, so anything over 14 hours and it needs to be jumped. What could be my problem???? In car voltmetre says alternator is working... I can't have had 2 new dud batterys in a row could I.... I'm contemplating buying the bigger bosch s5 008 people have fit in their Zeds but don't want the same thing to happen.... iv turned the CD player and interior light off so they don't come on with the ignition.... I'm stumped, the car worked fine for 3months before Xmas and now can't hold charge after a month, nothing extra has been fitted or anything whilst iv owned the car. My drive to work in the morning is only a mileish, but i let the car idle for 3 or 4 mins 1st, then when leaving work I idle for 3 or 4mins again and take a longer route home which is about 6miles down a duel carriageway. Please help guys.....

I really fancy getting an airedale terrier, think they look really cool

How would a car become flooded just because of the cold? Also how do you unflood it?? I'm intrigued

Is it really.... looks like I'll be paying them a visit then, cheers for that I was litterally just about to buy one of them rear camber kits with toe bolts, In all honesty I think I will need them, definatly for the rear anyway. I'm now just googleing the he'll out of every single 350 suspension post from uk and US of A to see if I can get away without the front camber arms as they are like 400 golden nuggets lol I think I'm gunna buy the rears, fit them myself, then take it to get tyres on and full alignment next day and tell them to get it as close as possible. Next months Gunna be a biggie.... 4 tyres, arms, alignment, MOT, japfest.... does a anyone have experiance in bank robbery??? Iv got a couple of balaclavas and plenty of "can do attitude"

Or these.... https://www.torqen.uk/nissan/350z/suspension/arms-links/874-350z-spc-rear-camber-arm-set-72050x2.html Sorry for all the noon questions, but if never had to deal with any suspension modding, if always stayed stock, I bought this car with these mods not realising to pain they may cause in the future lol I'm tempted to just go back to stock springs and stop faffing around but i do like the look and the extra stiffness. If anyone could recommend a cheap solution to my problem I'd be gratefull, im guessing I need rear camber arms and toe bolts, Cheers guys