Rob350

Hello chaps, not to rub it in but.... I'm currently sat at spa francorchamps having a beer after a 25min session on track, My question is... I've got a 04 DE, and was wandering what the oil sensor should read when high up in the revs?? I noticed on the last lap that when high in revs say 5k or 6k the sensor was going upto short of 90 psi. It idles good at around 20 - 25 psi, and at 3k its just short of 60 psi,so everything seems good. I think I'm just being paranoid but would like some reassurance, I've never really noticed what the oil pressure is when I'm high in the revs, I thought it would go up to near 120. Any thoughts are much appreciated guys, I'd like to know before I drive 100 kilometers back to nurburgring for some green he'll laps. Cheers Rob

Are you selling the pedal as well?

Ultra racing do do one, I paid about 150 for it I think from tarmac sportz, fit perfectly and solid

I think therrs going to be a bit of a meet up and drive out around skipton on the 20th August, there's a thread about it somewhere. Where abouts are you from?

I used fabsil on my s2000 and recently on my gf mx5, perfect stuff, easy to use and long lasting, it makes the hood like a leaf, you can literally brush water off and the hood is dry as a bone

Jeffin hell ... you must really like the zed. With that insurance, fuel, and maintanence... I'm guessing you don't work at McDonalds on minimum wage lol

I'm 26 with 4 years ncd, wheel spacers and exhaust, cheapest comparison sites wanted 1300, Adrian flux was 960

Sorry to hijack a thread but could someone tell me the order of bleeding... is it left rear.. right rear.. front left front right??? I'm changing my brake fluid to rbf 600, iv never changed brake fluid before but how hard can it be right... (famous last words) I'm going to syringe most of the old fluid out, fill with new and then have someone pump the brakes and then open the bleeder till clean fluid flows.. just wanted to now the order of what brake to bleed first please??. And any other tips would be appreciated Cheers

Use the internet for best prices... blackcircles.com, Camskill.com, mytyres.com. Welcome to the best forum on the net

Ripped both driver and passenger side off mine 2weeks ago as they were tapping around over bumps

1. slates - either day 2. Rob350 - whenever your ready 3. 4. 5.

How long has yours been doing it for? Like I say aparently it sorts itself out after a few weeks. But iv also read crank piston sensors on their way out if the revs keep dropping, evenly itl stall when you put the clutch in to stop at lights.

No joy... Accelerator pedal relearn worked and throttle closed worked, but idle reset didn't, must have done it 30 times with a stop watch. Then done the 1st 2 resests again and tried the idle relearn again 10times and nothing... the cel light doesn't even start blinking after pressing the accelerator hard 5 times, its a pain in the ringo. But after playing with it for a while I think its only not holding the idle instantly after warm starts only, on cold starts it seems to hold without bliping the throttle. Iv been doing more reading and theres a lot of American people have had a similar issue after disconnecting their battery for a few hours or more like I did, they claimed it relearnt itself after a week or two. So maybe I'll live with it for a while and see if it gets better or worse..

this one ???? No time like the present eyyy... I'll let you know how it goes, fingers crossed

Thanks for the replies @Ekona I appreciate this massively... I havnt done any resets as yet.. iv googled the procedures and found 3 ever so slightly different versions, some say wait 7 secs, some say wait 10 secs or 20, some have added an extra turn your ignition off and on again... Is there one that you 100% know is correct??? Also I diddnt think I'd have to do any resets as Iv not touched the maf or throttle butterfly??? But before I do the butterfly reset maybe I should clean it 1st??? there was abit of blackness build up around it... but I've read horror stories of people moving the butterfly to clean then doing the resets and having all sorts of wild idle issues and stalling so I'm pretty put off cleaning it tbh..

@Ekona I didn't... I pulled the old plugs out which were bosch and replaced with ngk irridiums from Horsham, before I threw the bosches away I thought I'd see what the gap was just out of interest, it was about .35, I googled what the ngk irridiums gap was and Google said .44

Just took everything off again apart from removing the coils and sparks, and put everything back again to quadruple check and its no different... One thing I did notice, when I removed the air intake off the throttle body the very 1st time to change the sparks... about an inch and half width of the intake tube was creased over on the bottom the tube, possibly not making a perfect seal. It must have been like this since I bought the car as I've never removed untill now. Is there a chance the car could have gotten used to this slight leak and tought itself over time to idle ok?? And now I've put it back properly with a good seal it needs to learn the new idle possibly????? Also now 40% of the time I put my clutch in to come to a stop it drops to like 300rpm then goes back to 700ish. It's confusing because it ran perfectly fine before I changed the sparks only difference is the old plugs were bosch with a .35 gap and I put new ngk iridium in which have a .44 gap. So I'm thinking next thing to do is maybe idle relearn and possibly throttle relearn???

Anyone???

Alright guys, I changed the spark plugs yesterday, it was fine all day yesterday for three start ups and drives perfectly fine no problem. Come to start it today, the revs went up like normal and instead of resting at idle it went straight past and died, didn't struggle or anything, just straight to zero and died. I started it again and just touched the throttle a bit and it stopped at idle like normal, its done this three times again today. Iv checked and double checked under the bonnet for vacume lines and air intake being put back correctly and everything is good. If been reading up on other people's similar problem, people were suggesting throttle relearn and idle relearn, maybe fuel pump but I doubt it... crank position sensor, knock sensor, maf sensor, I didn't touch the throttle body flap or maf sensor though I made sure I was extra careful to avoid them. Any similar experience would help or ways of solving.. I'm tempted to do a throttle and idle relearn but Iv also read people having trouble after they've done these sometimes. I'm all booked to got the ring in 3weeks so don't want to make it any worse, I can live with having to blip the throttle every time i start the car untill I come back I just don't want it to get worse and not be able to idle at all or somthing. Advice needed please fellas Cheers Rob

Just checked out insure my trackday for a quote at the nurburgring on a sunday tourist day, im going there for 10 days on the 30th July. It was £170 for my zed being worth £7000. It covers the whole day 8 till 7 with £2000 worth of Armco barrier cover aswell, or an extra £45 to get £4000 of armco barrier cover. I diddnt think it was too bad... nurburgring here we come lol

How do i turn notifications on?? On "my account" then "notification settings" it says my notifications are disabled and to go to "browser help" to turn them back on. Where's Brower help??

Any help or wise words would be appreciated guys?.. I'm after changing my brake fluid, thinking something that has a higher boiling point to standard nissan dot 3 because I got big brake fade after 6 laps of Silverstone japfest (I was on standard brake pads) I have just upgraded to ebc yellowstuff so hoping that will help abit. I do a couple trackdays and a nurburgring trip a year and some hard street driving. iv been reading up on fluids... nissan says dot 3, I found a massive write up from a "brake fluid expert" and he stated try to stick to the same reccomended dot for the car because that's what all the seals/components have been tested with and the slightly different chemicals in other dots may corrode quicker. He also said the higher boiling point fluids need changing and bleeding more often as they absorb water easier. I was thinking of getting dot 4 motul RBF 600 because its reccomend on here, but then I don't want to change it every 6months/year because of water absorption. I tend to do 2 or 3 hard laps, then 1 or 2 cooldown laps, I do this sequence 3 times then I come off for 30mins Again any wise words would be appreciated Cheers

Alright mate, I could be up for this little trip if I'm not working, I'll find out Thursday. Where abouts is haws??

They are different diameters, the cheap ones are 292, and the expensive ones are 322 so maybe measure your old ones and see what diameter they are

Do you have a bright orange zed??? I'm from whalley and iv seen a bright orange one a few times recently.. also traveling to great Harwood way