Azure350z

The air con uses about 4mpg on mine.

I think the OP is referring to engine braking, as others have said. I think the braking that the OP is getting at is when the engine cuts the fuel to the injectors because the hill incline is accelerating the car enough so the engine doesn't have to. (I may be wrong ). I sometimes find that as the fuel combustion turns on and off you can feel the car pulse which may lead the OP to think that a brake is being applied.

They said that because mine is 100k on mileage they wouldn't take it in part ex due to the gearbox issue that they all supposedly have. They didn't even see my car.

Hey everyone. I visited Junction 17 cars in Nottingham today as I'm thinking of trading my 350z in for a 370z. Whilst there I enquired on a px value for my 350z and they informed me that every 350z gearbox dies after 80,000 miles as the 6th gear synchros go. I explained that this was an issue on the early 03's but the 56 plates had a revised cd009 gearbox and it was much less of an issue. Anyway I felt the info was rubbish but wanted to get everyone else's opinion on cd009 gearboxes dying at 80000 miles (apparently every gearbox at 80000-90000 regardless of how it was driven or looked after.

Easy to swap, I did mine a few weeks ago. Just remove the cir-clip and press it out. One thing to note though (this wont affect you, it's just for anyone else who may read this info), If you have a rev up or HR then use the original seating cone and not the new one that comes with the ball joint as the cones appear to have changed between the DE and HR.

Try bedding the handbrake in, drive at 10 mph and gently pull the hand brake up until you come to a stop. Do this 3 times but not consecutively. It's in the handbook somewhere. My handbrake holds me on every hill with no problems but was useless before I bed it in.

Who is the detailer?

Depending on Location, I would be interested in the MAF tube. Of course, that is if you are willing to split the intake up.

My Nismo titanium knob gets a hell of a lot hotter then my OEM one did.

If you look in the handbook for the car it tells you how to lock the car without the alarm being activated. It is something like turn the ignition 3 times and then lock the car as someone mentioned earlier on in this thread.

Horsham Developments have the revised version of the outer CV joint. Check out their website.

Why are you not talking to Jez???!!! Ask him these questions, then ask us if you don't like his answers.

I had exactly the same thing and it was the dust shield like Ewen said. The shield is about half the diameter of the brake disc and sits fairly close. Pop the wheel of and look behind the disc to see where it is catching and then just bend it away by hand.

I replaced the banana arm today and whilst I was doing it I tried to spin the disc to see if I noticed anything. The disc span with a bit of resistance but not much, easily turnable by one hand, as soon as you let go it stopped turning, You could hear the brake pads touching the disc. I have no idea what to look for so I assumed it's how it should be? I do live and work in built up areas and so a lot of stop start driving in traffic but I presumed that the low speed would be kinder to the pad but maybe that are too hard when cold or something?

Wow that's good mileage Wasso and the sort of region I was expecting the discs to last for. If it was a sticking calliper, wouldn't one of the pads wear a lot quicker than the other? The pad wear looks quite even, it's just the discs that aren't

yeah they were checked, everything looked fine.

I have DBA T3 discs and Ferodo DS2500 pads all round on my 350Z. I was doing some suspension work today and noticed that the inside face of my front discs are quite worn. Worn to the point that I can only just see the groves in the disc. The outside face looks fine. Just wondering how everyone else is finding the life of his combination? Mine look like the discs are only lasting 18,000 miles which seems quite short to me considering that I have not done any track days and I very rarely push the car as it's my daily driver. Is everyone else finding such a short life from the discs. I've not even needed to change the pads yet as they are only about 1/2 worn.

it's just a worn clutch release bearing. You can get it changed but it will cost you over £200 in labour (have to remove he gearbox). It does no harm and even if you get a new bearing fitted you will have the same noise after about 1000 miles. You'll fid that pretty much every Z makes that noise. Just change it when you need a new clutch which is when it starts to slip.

It's normal, don't worry

I got mine imported from Concept Z Performance in March 2013. It cost £1350 after all the shipping and taxes. Worth it though I relaise I have offered no help but I'm not selling mine just yet. However I thought I should let you know that the charges fro shipping, taxes and the exhaust shouldn't be as high as £1800

I'll get the ball rolling: 1 X MILLERS LONG LIFE OIL & FILTER SERVICE KIT FROM ABBEY MOTOR SPORT - £10

It's Bluetooth, I have the same ELM327 as Ken. The Bluetooth ones don't appear to be live when the ignition is off, I've left mine plugged in for a few weeks without running the car and it was fine.

Wondering if anybody knows the sizes for the screws that attach the head unit to the dashboard? It appears as though the previous owner has removed some of mine. It looks like there should be 4 screws that go through the tabs on the mounting bracket and two that go under the head unit directly in to the dash panel.

Could try this: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/nissan-350z-exhaust-/271482006571?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item3f3596ac2b

If you could do with any help on the Friday evening or Saturday/Sunday then let me know and I'll gladly help. Sorry I can't help on Friday day time but I'm at work until 4.