Chromatic

I have told my mates I am getting a Nissan run about, so they are not expecting much. Would love to see their faces when you rock up in the new Zed. Did a similar thing with one of my mates who I hadn't seen for a while who didn't know I'd bought a Zed last year. His face was priceless especially as I'd just had my Invidia Gemini exhaust & Berks HFC's fitted so the V6 sounded incredible. I have this moment coming for almost all my good friends.. I've been too busy working on the Zed the last few months since I bought it to even go show it off to my mates much lol.. So I'm going to love the looks on their faces when I go over and we end up coming out to go out,.. and there's this ... Then we get in and I have my ridiculous sound system (that you have no idea is there until a song starts lol).. And then I start it up and VROOOM... with the Invidia Duals and Berk HFC's Yes, I'm a proud daddy.. lol.. but I mentioned I grabbed a Nissan to get something with more room when I spoke to them lol..

Wha huh? I would have just asked,.. may we see your lovely "ride" ? I see some people who don't care to BUY a Zed.. but Zed's are some of the best looking sports cars on the planet.. For me,.. the 300ZX, 350Z, and 370Z all rank up there with timeless designs. What is wrong with people? They deserved a smack in the head .. maybe it would help knock some 'taste' in their mind/eyes..

These still available? Even though I'm an.. American.. I want one!

Do want to report on this I tried: Good product, but not "extreme". It's just about like the rest.. A bit glossy nothing major,.. 1-2 weeks duration,.. Not what I am after.. the hunt continues Not even really worthy to post pics or anything.. not better than other products I have.

I really need to get around to trying my "stuff" (can't even remember the name.. it's in an unopened box in the garage) on the wheels.. I've been waiting till the weather and my schedule open up for a good wash and wax for when I try this stuff.. Hopefully I'll have something to report here soon.

Thanks! And absolutely.. I've been abusing my Dremel the last 3+ months.. Everything I've done I've used it nearly.. From Audio work fabrication, Exhaust trimming.. to even cutting the Silicone on those Mishimoto intake tubes.. I don't know of a project I've done so far I haven't used it (maybe some wiring of the under strut bar lights or something ).. but on my hatch brackets I used it.. used it constantly during the audio install, making my amp rack, cutting wood, opening the mounting holes on the SRQ box for the Sub,.. the Air diversion plate, Mishimoto Silicone Z-tubes, the list goes on.. The dremel is without a SINGLE doubt my favorite tool.. if anyone doesn't have one.. GO BUY ONE ! They are dirt cheap.. and I dare you to find a more versatile tool. It's invaluable. I mean even hot women use them

Yeah,.. Do the lines really make a difference in perf? If you aren't tracking? To be honest the way these brakes handle now.. Anything I did would be for looks.. So I may as well just look into painting and refinishing my stock calipers and be done with it 3 grand + is just money that could be put towards a turbo fund lol.. Then I'd need to work on Brakes haha.. but I'm not anticipating going FI anytime soon. Curious: I noticed from: Is your Z decal crooked? Not knocking ya.. just wondering if my eyes are wonky..

I didn't think air was in the line.. a low pedal doesn't sound like air to me.. But you said: Typo? I thought the issue was it was too low to begin with.. Well, the engagement point? Do you mean they just lowered the pedal height overall and the engagement point is the same.. so it doesn't "feel" like you are letting the pedal back as much after it engages? Bottom line.. if it is an issue to drive (easy to stutter in first gear take offs) then it's a problem. If it drives fine .. then I don't see any issue. If it just bothers you with an early bite.. there are adjustments that can be made. I'm not sure why the place didn't offer you the ability to adjust it.. but not all mechanics are equal. Being able to bolt in a clutch and being able to adjust pedal height are two different things. While the latter may seem much easier,.. it's not. It's all about how well you understand the vehicle.. and they are all different, while very much the same.. if that makes sense. The 350 Pedal engagement and pedal height is notoriously way too high stock.. and like I said before.. an aftermarket clutch in place of the stock may just seem like such a drastic change due to the very high engagement you were used to from the stock height. But, I know I could get in your car and drive it for 30 seconds and know if it was overtly right or wrong. All cars engage a little differently on manual trans.. but there is a "common sense" sweet zone for it.. It's not (exactly X inches from floor) it's just a general range that feels right. If it is, indeed, right... then you'll get used to it and no big deal. Like I said there are pedal adjustments (that replace the pedal assembly on the interior side) of the car you can buy (just one I know of).. but it's well made and worth the money if you are particular about your clutch / pedal heights .. as I am. Anyhow.. I think mechanically you are fine. Thanks for the update.

Looks can be deceiving.. No seriously.. I think it turned out well.. I won't lie.. I made a few mistakes which were mainly the Dremel at 15-20k rpm getting away from me holding with one hand and nicking the plate.. but I touched the few spots up temporarily.. and if those don't hold I'll take some proper paint to the few nicks on it. Overall though, I'm pleased with the result.

Very well may be the case! More confusion for him lol.. That said, if you aren't happy with the clutch engagement point,.. ie: It's going to be most pronounced when starting from standstill in first gear,.. then I'd still get it to my liking. If the shop can't adjust it for you,.. and the factory adjustments I mentioned don't do it for you -- A guy designed a new pedal assembly for $200-$300 to place the original that allows for full range of adjustment if you are interested.. it is in the states.. but is an option if it's something that bothers you. I know for me, the first thing I did on my 350 has adjust the clutch height as the stock height is incredibly high on engagement and is not comfortable at all. Good luck with it.

Thanks much appreciated -- Yeah, I looked at Brake upgrade kits.. and it was in the $3,000+ range.. Which is much higher than I expected -- So Stock is where it's at for now on Brakes. Although, while many disagree.. I actually think the Brakes on this 2008 work pretty well ( off track anyways)..

In the DE's they are accessible without dropping the Transmission -- They are roughly in this area: In the HR's the Slave cylinder is inside the Bellhousing/tranny area.. and you must, unfortunately, drop the transmission to replace the slave cylinder which was a poor decision by Nissan for a part that they didn't work the problems out of. In my 2008 I have to drop the transmission to change the Slave cylinder,.. non HR motors get to do it MUCH cheaper. Of course the master is up where your Brake master is in the engine bay.

Yeah? From my experience you really get to see the big differences when people start doing bodywork to the car (any car).. You see I like the middle vent just as much as the sides. I'm also a fan of hoodscoops (Small, low profile scoops.. not the crazy high ones..).. Though The way this engine is designed there is no hoodscoop that would be very functional, so not going that route -- but I may end up eventually going with a hood (the one I showed was just an example of a vented hood.. not necessarily one I'm dying to buy ) . The Hood will have to wait a while though,.. next is the Tune which will run me $600 alone,.. and I'm fairly tapped as it is,.. So that would be more Summer mods as I get more disposable income for the vehicle. I like the stock hood, esp. on the HR's with the bit of a "lump" in the middle of them.. So there's no huge reason other than the 'heat' for me to go to another hood -- So there's an equal chance I'll just stick with what I have. I've also noticed some people getting aftermarket hoods and half of them just don't fit well.. The seams don't line up like the factory one does,.. And the only benefits from a hood are 1) Looks (which is going to be highly subjective) and 2) If well vented, reduced Engine bay heat.. Given I've said I'm well pleased with the stock looks (plus stock is incredibly light),.. the heat isn't enough, so far, to push me to a MUST buy/have item. If I end up with a Supercharger or Turbo(s).. the heat would become a different issue for me.. but that is a BIG *if*.

I'm helping two people right now with Audio builds on the forum in PM's.. If you decide to do anything from throwing in a new headunit, to going as nuts as I did and ripping it all out and putting a full-on 7 speaker system, amp, re-wire, headunit, custom fab, etc.. I'll be happy to help you with any questions pre and during install you have. Thanks, I'm definitely trying to stay in those bounds. The little cleanup I did with the above pictures of logo's made a world of difference in "my" eyes in the engine bay.. The way I approach much of this is to try and make it "pop" but also at the same time try to make it look at "factory", clean, and professional as possible -- if that makes sense. Sometimes less "flash" is more. IE: Toning down the K&N logo's, removing that flash Invidia logo,.. and ridding the car of the factory warning stickers was an example of that. As for the OCD,.. Yeah, I think anytime someone starts treating a vehicle the way we do it crosses the line from how most people consider their cars as means of transportation and if it's nice,.. then great... to we are a bit obsessive with it. Though, if you are going to be "addicted" to something, there are much worse, less productive things to be addicted to.

Nice build thread.. Love your car,.. Nice HR,.. great color,..awesome wheels,.. and nice mods. Love people who do mods with class, you have good taste my friend. I've done some of the same mods,.. minus suspension/brakes. Was curious,.. I've replaced Reverse lights with LEDS, taglights with LEDS,.. Wired in some hidden white led strips under the Boot Strut bar in hatch (wired off the single light back there) -- Though the two lights up front up top above your head don't seem to put out much light at all. Mine look blue,.. not sure if prev. owner added a different led light or not, or if this bluish color is stock,... however I was wondering what bulbs you used for your interior front lights up top to get "more" light out of them? I'd like to get some about as bright as possible. Also, Love the brakes, .. that's a mod I'm going to do after my Tune,.. have any links, or model number(s) to the Brembo calipers and lines (and even pads) you used on your car? If not that's cool. Well done.

Thanks Captain Obvious Here's your TLDR: Take it back to the shop, 1-3" off the floor flywheel engagement is not normal, Carry on.

Yeah, I'm in the US though.. so not sure how that would have worked out. But my vendor I go through in the states got me a Mishimoto for $70 shipped,.. which was about $26 cheaper than anywhere I could find elsewhere. I "chopped" it up with my dremel and it fits nicely on my 2008. Here it is,..

I'm taking it back to the garage to have the pedal lowered, but that wont change the actual biting point will it?, correct me if I'm wrong. I'm finding hard to get used to the biting point as it is, but maybe that's how a new clutch is supposed to be like. Well that's the thing. The adjustment on the pedal is not really changing the engagement of the clutch.. it's just changing pedal travel mostly. And you *shouldn't* have to adjust a clutch that is engaging like 1-2" off the floor.. That's just TOO close. Something isn't right with the pedal assembly, to Master cylinder, slave, to bearings, springs, forks, etc.. That's all on THEM though. They should know better. Don't let them tell you that's just how aftermarket clutches are.... When it's not right, it's not right. You paid a reasonable sum I'm sure for the fitment/installation labor -- And that was to do it right. You shouldn't pay anymore for them to get the pedal at a reasonable height. The pedal adjustment I talked about is really just to "tweak" pedal height for your own liking really and if you get some extra play in the pedal which happens over time. So.. the more I think about this the more I'm dead set on you not touching anything and insisting they get the pedal the engage at least mid way or so on the travel.. Whatever they have to do .. they have to do. You paid for the job. You don't pay for them to go back and do it "right". If they have to drop the tranny to get this right, it's their fault. Not yours. But hopefully it's just no big deal.. quick fix. I wouldn't overthink this (As I would certainly do if it were my car) and start trying a bunch of things yourself.. I'd leave it where it is.. not touch a thing,,..until you can get it back into the original shop. It sounds like your clutch engagement is "silly low" as Toon Chris put it. A clutch should engage at 5-7 inches from floor at minimum imo.. not 1-2" ever. That's just too sensitive, and annoying. Here is an article about this issue.. but not using a 350Z Or Zed at all.. but it applies to some degree: https://www.powertri..._Adjustment.htm Oh -- If you want to give us a better idea of specifics (while not easy).. try to get a rough estimate of how many inches (cm's, etc) the clutch is traveling from floor before it engages. If it's 1-3" it's NOT right. And I wouldn't accept it. If it's say 8-12" . Then that is fine.. The stock clutch engagement is the highest engagement point of a clutch I've ever driven and I've driven at least 150+ manual sports cars.. So even a drop half way would feel VERY drastic,.. but should actually (at proper height) feel MUCH easier to work with. It sounds very much like yours is engaging the flywheel a few inches off the floor,.. Get a measurement, and I'll work on getting you a specific range for your car using an aftermarket clutch that is in "proper range". Good luck with it.. be nice, but firm with the shop.

Thanks. I'm addicted more than I've ever been to a car. Slightly over 3 months now.. and I think I've gone a little overboard.. but is that even possible with the Z's? As long as you keep it classy? You can tell, probably, I'm a stickler for doing things right, and a perfectionist of sorts.. IE: The whole sticker removal, cutting , etc of the engine bay lol. The audio build was SO involved -- between 100-200 hours of labor on my end over a week working 12+ hour days many times.. (little sleep).. I wish I would have had my camera(s) I have now then.. You would have really seen how I wired the car up,.. and how anal I was about my solders joints, using relays, running dedicated grounds,.. and neat wiring in general. Also I wish I could have video's more of it cause wiring of the headunit at least video'd while I talked about it (I can talk about the 350 forever).. on camera would have been invaluable to people who have questions about the wire colors and what wire goes where. I know I was a bit confused when I was wiring back there.. it's not exactly clear cut on some of it. But oh well. This thread will just continue to grow haha.. As you see I post minor sticker changes.. to major ripping my car apart for the audio system which is absolutely phenomenal.. to the middle ground Perf. mods like Catback, the HFC's, and so on.. I'll try to do more videos on everything I do.. no matter how "easy" it is and post them in here -- so if anyone wants to listen and watch my rambling arse doing something for the first time they can learn from my mistakes. I've lost my "self-consciousness" of talking to the camera.. and how "unintelligent" I sound with my "accent".

Well do something to your Zed everyday keeps Zeditis away? /shrug.. Anyway.. I removed the Invidia godawful sticker lol.. Sigh. I removed the factory yellow and orange stickers.. and cleaned up the adhesive below them. Then the orange on the K&N stickers was bugging me.. so I carefully hand cut them to be all "white" .. I think it looks cleaner. So old: And now: Not huge changes.. but I feel better when I do something, no matter how minor You guys have any links, tips, etc for the following? Next are the Radiator Cap (any links for buying a cool one?) Oil Dip stick -- (Paint?) Windshield wiper reservoir Cap -- (Paint) And I suppose Oil filler Cap (Links to cool ones?)

ROFL!

*This is just more thoughts/ideas for you.. if you get desperate* I would first take it back to the place you had the clutch installed and have them professionally adjust it (free) before attempting anything yourself. It's not exactly normal,.. but it's quite common with an aftermarket clutch. As was said above it can be due to air in the lines (which bleeding will essentially rid you of),.. It can also be as simple as adjusting the locknut at the back of the pedal assembly itself. Just for reference: *Note: Turn on the car.. open door in neutral. Push in clutch and listen, release clutch fully and listen. Notice the difference in sounds both ways. This will come in handy post adjustment.* 1. Move the driver’s seat back and get in the floor board on your back. (I personally use a cordless and remove my driver seat (takes 5-10 seconds) -- As I'm 6ft and need all the room I can get. -- The Seat is held down, IIRC, by 14mm bolts. But it is NOT necessary to make this quick adjustment. 2. Remove the fuse box cover. (and Dead pedal if needed for room) -- (You can do this adjustment without this removal as well.) 3. Locate the clutch pedal assembly. 4. Notice the pedal has a fork attached to it; the fork is connected to a rod that goes back toward the firewall. 5. Insert the tip of the screwdriver into the fork and brace it. 6. Place the 12mm open end wrench on the nut located directly behind the fork, on the rod. 7. Break the nut loose. *Note: At this point use a sharpie (or some way of marking on metal) where the rod is located (mark the rod, and the metal that it's going into.. so you know when you've made a complete turn.) -- this is important for returning it back to where it was if needed, and to gauge how far you have adjusted.* 8. Grab the rod with your fingers and turn it COUNTER-clockwise. (Clockwise shortens pedal travel, Counter-Clockwise lengthens pedal travel.) *I would start by turning it two (2) full turns.* 9. Re-tighten the nut. *Test the pedal travel from your initial adjustment. Have the car on, and listen for the throwout bearing (you don't want to release the pedal and not hear the throwout bearing.. aka: You want the clutch to fully engage and fully disengage to prevent pre-mature wear on the clutch or worse.. * In your case,.. It may need 3-4+ turns. This is a limited adjustment though,.. Only goes so far both ways. 10. Replace the fuse box cover. (And dead pedal and Seat if you took any of them out/off) 11. Enjoy. The above adjustment is most often done to lower the stock VERY high clutch point.. So be careful about over-doing this adjustment with your aftermarket clutch. Though it may adjust enough to get it in the range you need while fully engaging and fully disengaging the clutch. This is less likely to be an issue -- but doesn't hurt. You can try to swap the fluid in JUST the clutch reservoir . You would remove the fluid up to the point where the master cylinder line goes in (not below it).. then put in new fluid. Then go into car and pump clutch pedal at least 30 times.. (Usually it will feel the same,..) -- If pressure is there,.. turn on car and pump it more.. drive around a bit.. Rinse/Repeat. Also,.. moving from DOT 3 to DOT 4 can help here. Though this is more of something that will help with the FEEL of a clutch pedal and how the clutch pedal performs under higher heat instances. -- Just adding in more possibilities that you could safely try on your own. Below is a video I made about doing this, which is quite long,.. You can skim through it if you want .. but the process is quite simple -- Though I must forewarn you: Some do not agree with this (As I say a few times in the video) method,.. and do so at your own risk. (I actually do not think this will help your specific circumstance, just adding it to be thorough and because I already had recorded this prior.) Again if possible.. I would take it back to where you had it installed and have them do the adjustments for 'free' before you attempted anything. (Always best) Let us know how it turns out.

TLDR at bottom Interesting topic.. There isn't any Hard and fast (Shift at X rpm in 1st, Y rpm in 2nd, and so on..) rule for this car. For a few reasons.. 1) The DE is a different beast than the HR.. Shift points are going to vary due to the HP/Torque bands in both.. In an HR you will generally want to shift at a higher point than a DE.. but not drastically so. 2) People have stock cars,.. or modified cars. This changes the hp/tq 3) People just differ on driving style,.. and opinions of what "feels" right. Here's my thoughts on the matter. I hesitate to put any specific RPM points because we all have Z's.. but my 350Z is not like everyone else's.. and yours isn't either. Even if we all had stock 350Z's and they ALL had the exact motor they would still differ a bit.. but THAT would make it easier. Anyhow,.. If you maintain your engine well,.. and it's , well, in good shape (IE: Not 200k+ miles.. and needs to last you as your daily driver)... Then when At the dragstrip or autocross track (or private roads.. really? ) -- Then I maintain that since the 350's make Horsepower and Torque fairly high in the RPM band compared to say a muscle car or typical V8,.. That you should shift at *just* under redline for your model. My redline is 7,500 -- Your's may be 7,500, 7,200 (Nismo GT), 7,000, or lower.. -- Now, is this the EXACT point where your car is making the most horsepower and torque? No. Well isn't that the idea of shifting? To shift at the highest Horsepower or Torque? Sort of. Here's the deal. -- Let's take a look at a 350Z, VQ35HR motor with intake, testpipes and exhaust dyno graph.. You see you can pick your poison here.. Do you want to shift at Max Torque? Or do you want to shift at Max hp? They do not meet at their max's respectively. Neither really.. To shift at the optimum for this car (in the Gear this was dyno'd on) you would want to shift ideally right at 7,000 rpm. (You could argue 6k as well.. and it would be worth testing at a drag strip.) This is where both Torque AND Horsepower are high,.. and there is a bit of room not to bump the rev-limiter (although for a car like this the Rev-limiter is often bumped up.. with tune). Now,.. for a DE it would be similar, but different.. same principles apply. A Rev-up motor the same "idea". Now, my thoughts are to shift at about 500 "ish" RPM under your redline. So for me that would be 7k,.. It's technically even better in some arguments to shift right AT Redline... so in my car I would shift at 7400-7500. People will argue,.. but at the redline area you have lost horsepower and torque so you are wrong! Well, that's true,..but why would one shift a little higher? Where do you think the engine RPM is going to fall in the next gear on the HP/TQ curve/band ? Yes sir, .. it will fall closer to the peak hp/tq areas of the RPM band the higher your shift. Let's say you shifted an HR motor at 6k,.. Well you typically aren't reaching maximum hp/tq with the/that shift and the engine is going to invariably drop X revolutions per minute in the next gear which is going to slot you down the power band ,.. which that amount of time to get back up in the best part of the powerband is hurting your performance. So shifting on an HR at 7000-7400ish is not a bad thing. The horsepower and torque drop, yes.. but they only drop by 10-20hp at most,.. and your gain of being higher in the power band for the next gear is going to be greater than that 10-20hp loss from extending it hundredths or tenths of a second. Many people tend to think of performance cars reaching their peak HP/TQ at X RPM then for whatever reason in their minds 100 rpm past that is = to 0 (zero) hp/tq. This is where I think people tend to get confused a bit until they start looking over Dynographs and understanding curves. Same goes for DE, or Revup -- It's just lower. The 350Z power band both for tq and hp is very good. By good I mean it follows a nice upward curve through the midrange and top end.. So "generally" as you climb in RPM so is the power of your Car. This makes it somewhat simple to figure out the shift points. Some cars have peak power at say 4800rpm,.. but may rev to 6000 .. You wouldn't want to push it all the way out to 6k on such a car.. as the HP/TQ drop off would be hurting you more than you would gain on the positioning of the powerband for the next gear.. Sounds sort of complicated but it isn't. That is the beauty of our VQ engines.. they were designed with one of the best horsepower and torque curves you could ask for, stock.. and they generally keep this curve as you add performance parts to them. Long story short: -- Shift 100-600'ish before your redline. Now,.. if you wanted to get absolutely precise with this.. you would HAVE to go get your car dyno'd in every single gear.. and get the precise hp/tq curves for YOUR car for each gear ratio. And you would come out with an exact say: 1st (6800), 2nd (6500), 3rd (6900), 4th (7350), and so on.. But we are talking milliseconds difference here. To be honest, most of us aren't good enough drivers to be able to take advantage of such precise shift points. So the EASY way is to take the car to about 300-500 below redline on every single shift (when trying to maximize performance on a drag strip).. Set your shift light to where it first blinks at that range, so you can use the visual queue until you become intimately familiar with the sound of your engine at such high rpm ranges. In the end you want to drive by sound, not by looking at anything. You DO get used to how your engine sounds at fairly precise RPM's. This is all only practical for Straight line, drag strip type of runs. When you are using the Z for it's true built purpose.. autocross (a real track with curves) you won't be shifting like you would trying to save milliseconds on an 8th mile, quarter mile, and so on time. You will shift at points dictated by your experience and conditions, other cars around you, the track, turns, straighaways, etc... For everyday driving shift where you want. I personally shift under 3k with normal driving,.. these cars are VERY torquey (if that is a word). So you can be at 1800 rpm and the car will PULL in a gear. That's torque you are feeling if you've wondered the difference in Torque vs HP. Most other "V6's" aren't like our Z's.. they aren't like the VQ35XX engines. At 1800 rpm the engine is at extremely low torque and thus feels like it is dieing on you.. And you can really feel this in 4 cylinders, where even your everday shift points aren't practical to shift below 2200 if you "want" to. Make sense? I've seen people say they like to shift in "normal" driving at 4500 rpm.. That's quite high to me,.. but to each their own. It's not uncommon for most to shift around 3k (give or take) in everyday driving (in these cars). TLDR: On a drag strip (shift 100-500 rpm below redline) -- On a true racetrack (other conditions/factors will dictate your shift points for you) -- Normal driving that's your call.. there is no optimum, except for fuel economy and for best fuel economy stay somewhere in the 2200-3000 rpm range on shifts.

Nice! Like the wheels.. Does that have 10 lugs?

Interesting on the hood spacers.. but , nope,.. That looks horrible! Who would do that to their car? Maybe to a track only car.. But no.. I'd rather put on a carbon fiber hood with vents that was black than screw the lines up. Would look like this on my car: Not terrible.. but still questionable because it looks a bit like an unpainted body panel .. But it would do wonders for under hood heat buildup,.. which is primarily hurting your intake air temps.. And secondarily causing damage to rubber, plastic, and other such components under the hood. The heat really is remarkable under the hoods of the 350's.. Even when it's 0 Celsius out,.. the heat was high. It's normal, it isn't something specific to my car,.. it's just the way it was designed, which was poorly with no where for the heat to go.. but the engine cooling system does fine to keep the motor at proper temps.. so functionally for a daily driver it's no big deal, which was the 'engineering' desire.. Intake temps weren't a huge concern, but at least on the HR's they pulled the air from the outside and not inside the engine bay -- which, again, is why I don't understand why people put conical intake systems that sit inside the super hot engine bay on. Unless they are willing to give up power in favor of the intake noise. They look cool.. but are yanking in air that is 100-200+ degree's F depending.. Even, as I mentioned, on cold days that engine heats up under the bonnet a good bit. What's so odd is how the hood itself stays so cool in contrast. I guess is good for the paint,.. but I'd rather the hood take some of that heat so the air running across would let the hood act as a heatsink of sorts. I don't "race" this car.. but a Carbon Fiber hood with vents that looks great may be in my future. I may get one put it on.. then if it bothers me I can get it painted at a later time. But, for now I'm done for a bit on spending lol.. The car is up for a detail/polish/wax/wash.. tune .. and enjoyment. Though it's difficult for me , now, to not continue to have some project ongoing. I think I went a little too fast these first 3 months knocking out all the major stuff.. my future projects I think I'll try to take my time lol.. Doing engine dressing, especially painting myself,.. shouldn't be too terribly expensive and I can get creative with it maybe make it a little unique but classy under there.