Chromatic

Thanks GM.. you seem like the nicest person on the planet Anyhow.. I've been searching for weeks and like a madman for the past week+.. I've come full circle... I found what seemed like the PERFECT solution in this: http://www.amazon.com/JVC-Adixxion-GC-XA2-Color-Size/dp/B00DY6SSYW/ref=cm_cr_pr_product_top ^^ Has 5x Zoom.. Is actioncam so stable.. Has LCD screen to view and aim.. has decent battery that can be changed,.. good mic (with external mic port for better one ).. and so on. However,.. it's $300. About 3 times my budget. I ALMOST bought it.. but kept looking and reading and came full circle.. I'm going with your standard Mobius Cam -- Which is by far the most popular little dashcam.. Has NO zoom, no LCD/LED (screen) to see what you are filming,.. really has nothing lol. But, it's so popular because it has image quality better than anything else really.. It's absolutely tiny : Which is awesome cause the smaller and lighter -- the more stable the image. I'll also be getting a second one for my Dashcam (permanent) that will mount behind rear view mirror (I just got a brand new Homelink mirror to finalize my Base model conversion to GT/Enthusiast model ) and you won't see it! But it has great audio,.. holds 32GB M-SD card,.. and apparently has all the options that WORK, is the most reliable,..blah blah.. You can change it's options blind with those buttons, or you can plug it into your laptop/computer and there is a GUI .. program.. made to easily change all options then you just stick it in there and it's good to go.. of course time stamp, date,.. looping, and so on. The kicker is price. US dollars you can grab it for $69 -- Really hard to beat that for a 1080p high quality camera that is stable and tiny like that -- which, again, is why it's so dang popular. I HIGHLY recommend it to anyone looking for a dashcam.. Well,.. I considered that initially.. but was like.. No zoom.. can't see what I'm aiming at.. can't use it for my commentary video recording in my car. But figured out I can adjust the lens with an allen wrench.. And it's adjustable from a range of 2ft to Infinity,.. So I can set it up to zoom (albeit not super quick).. BUT,.. for aiming, The USB just goes into my laptop and I can see it in webcam mode and see what it's looking at. So a round about way of doing it.. but I don't pay $300 and it should work great. Also I'm protected here.. I was going to def. buy it for my dashcam.. so ordered one,.. if for some reason it doesn't work out for this,.. It isn't a waste, I just mount it up for my dashcam.. no loss. If it does work, -- I anticipate it will,.. then I just buy a second one for dashcam. Being so dang cheap.. This is a cam you can have a dash cam, rear dash cam..and a third one to play with if you want.. I mean.. It costs more to fill my car up than this thing costs. Would be even cheaper for your guys due to conversions I imagine. So you are right.. the Money risk for that last camera,.. Nay.. Mobius, no real risk for above reasons.

Found this randomly online: http://www.ebay.com/itm/HD-1080P-Waterproof-Sports-Cam-DV-Action-Camera-Bike-Camcorder-4x-Optical-Zoom-/131177891278?_trksid=p2054897.l4275 Has an OPTICAL zoom.. and all features I need.. But leary, it's no brand.. But, sometimes you get stuff from Asia that's awesome.. my rear view back up camera I bought for 19$ and it's the same camera as the Kenwood $300 version. Thoughts?

lol.. -- This happens in extremely long threads where it's not always likely someone read every post fully. =),.. But you are right.

Here..

The above Camera looks great.. cept now that I've had some Youtube reviews of it the Mic is beyond bad. I just need it to record my voice.. and if you go listen to it .. I can't believe they put a Mic that bad in it.. I can't believe a Mic exists that bad. -- On goes the search. Someone said I could easily add another mic to it by opening it up and doing some simply electrical work.. but man, buying a $150 action cam to then have to modify right off the bat.. No thanks. But the search terms "Action Cam with Zoom" tends to give me the few that exist of what I'm after. If any of you are familiar with any of these action cams that have the 4x, 8x, etc digital zooms (or happen to find one with optical zoom).. Do let me know.

Thanks,.. I'll be getting a Mobius for my Dashcam,.. I settled on that a while back.. For the money it seems hard to beat for that purpose. I have visited dashcamtalk.com.. and I think I posted my question there lol.. maybe not. But I'll look take a second look ! Haven't looked yet.. just responding. But thanks for your help. I live in the States .. But, in this "Global Economy" if you will... most of what is in the electronic world one can get anywhere whether in the UK or US.. So as far as cameras go I think we can openly share links and such and I can find it on Amazon, ebay or similar. What do you guys think about this ? (I posted this on another forum.. but it doesn't get much attention). Hey guys.. I just ran across a strong possibility. Thought I would get your opinions on this camera. It's a little pricey.. (I"d go for the $150 option),.. but it's not Gopro $400 pricey. I'm not looking for super UBER quality.. just pretty good.. it has a Zoom.. digital, but as long as it's still stable at a zoom that's fine with me. Think this camera will do the job of not being shaky? http://photofocus.com/2013/12/05/why-i-prefer-the-jvc-gc-xa1xa2-adixxion-action-camera-to-the-gopro-hero/ It's the JCV Adixxion Action Camera.. shown in the above link/review. Thanks

Made another post to get back to the point at hand: Basically guys I need you to help me search and find a Camera at $100 (or less) -- If it's $150, I'll still consider it, but the lower the better. That does/has the following: 1) Some sort of Zoom 2) Is an actioncam (camera that will solve the problem of shake completely..) Remember many if not most Dashcams are this way as well.. 3) Is $100 or less ideally.. (But if you find the perfect one for a little more, let me know.) Now some other things I'd PREFER but if can't be found I can make work... -- To have reasonable battery life.. Say 2 hours. I guess that's the only other major thing I'd like to have with it.. trying not to be too limiting/picky here. But if that can't be found, I can have a power source going to it constantly.. but for obvious reasons battery life of a few hours is a major bonus as these recordings are typically not incredibly long, but it may take 2-3 hours to get the footage in some instances. Thanks.. and I can't believe this is becoming such a difficult task

This is exactly what I have been suspecting. I haven't researched if it's a floating lens,.. but after all the mounting positions.. using a tripod wedged in car,.. putting it without mount wedged between headrest and top of seat, etc.. It's the CAMERA. It's a great Camera,.. but it's designed to compensate for some sharp movements while being hand held,.. but not a vibration and bumps from suspension on a continuous basis from a car.. especially not the tight suspensions on our Zeds.. You hit the nail on the head with this analysis. The camera is not going to work. I don't LOVE the camera.. it is however a fantastic picture and I ended up buying the $450 version with another tripod, 2 batteries (one is huge and extended life), external light, external microphone, 64GB class 10 card, and so on.. Lots of extras to go with a $300 camera. If I could push a button and get my cash back and start with $400 to buy something else I would.. but all I can do at this point is sell this BRAND new camera with these accessories on ebay for like $250.. I'm short on cash for another "expensive" camera.. I consider anything more than $100 expensive for cameras these days. -- And, I really think it's probably better for me to keep this camera for other work (tutorials, tripod work, family events, and just regular hand held or stationary work.) -- As the quality at 1080p at 60 frames in progressive is phenomenal. Features galore, touch screen, external mic input (which you can see how well that works with my Last exhaust video that has the camera in car and an external mic outside car).. But.. I am short on cash. I've seen that mount in a few forms.. and a DIY version.. Basically get some PVC piping, some U rings with wingnuts to secure pipe to headrest .. Then come up with some way to mount the standard 1/4 thread so your camera can mount on it. But, from what I'm experiencing and others are saying -- I don't believe this type of mount is going to make any bit of difference to be honest. Thanks though! If you or anyone else comes across some magic dampening mount let me know. I agree. I don't even SEE a true dampening mount out there on Amazon.. The real dampening mounts are for very high end cameras, movies, semi-pro videographers and so on.. and the ones I have seen are for large cameras and about $400-$4000 depending. There is a niche market here to be tapped where someone could design a dampening mount that suctions on for about $80-$100.. I think it would sell well for people with phones, low to mid end camcorders and so on.. that want a plug and play solution for THEIR camera without buying another one (even a sub $100 cheap one). As for Go-Pro.. I've always been a fan of them. They quickly gained popularity because they are good. People latched onto them quickly because they had fairly good 720p (and now 1080p) image quality.. and the LACK of buttons on them I think helped their sales catch on. It's a literal point and shoot camera, that became huge for youtubers, and are "low cost" cameras that can be disposable if need be by film crews under water, catching scenes on vehicles, strapping on people to get decent image quality to put on TV and not have to worry about cost, if it gets broken, and it's not bulky.. But.. Given I'll be mounting whatever the name of the camera is I end up buying for my purpose here on my Gecko Mount (which is a great mount).. -- but I'll be mounting it in the Center area of the Rear Hatch/boot window (on the inside).. So a Go-pro would pick up the whole field of view and not be zoomed in on the device I'm capturing. While having zero ability to zoom it in.. I just can't go there. Also Go-Pro isn't cheap. I'd need the 1080p version and that's $400 ($399).. and even if I said, ok I'll get a lesser model for 720 quality.. I'm still talking $199-$299 price. Then the battery life is about an hour, depending on model. I've been doing a TON of video work, and I can tell you if you get into it, you can blow through an hour on a battery in what seems like 10 minutes. I have two batteries for my Canon HF R500.. and I can easily go through both of those.. and that's at least 3-4 hours at full charge. So I need help finding one of these action cams that has a zoom (that won't make things shaky) so I can mount back on the hatch/boot window and zoom it in on say my Radar Detector, Iphone 4, Iphone 5, Galaxy, Escort Live, or whatever electronic device I'm testing, reviewing, etc. While money is an issue -- I need to find one that is like all these small cams that are action cams (or dash cams) -- both of these genre's tend to be designed to eliminate shake and be small form factor -- And I know a FEW exist that have zoom. I've seen a few so far that do have a zoom (digital ) of like 16x.. but for one reason or another something else about it eliminated it from being an option. Oh.. I do "Travelogs" all the time. I too enjoy these. I wish you guys would do them in your area.. And by this I mean just slap in a camera (don't care of quality ) put it where it shows the front windshield and can record your voice. Then drive around and talk.. Talk about what you are driving through.. talk about your day,.. talk about projects your working on, .. talk about your Zed,.. talk about life.. point is ramble on about whatever. It actually becomes very soothing and comfortable to do. May seem a little odd at first talking to a camera.. but when you aren't facing it and driving it comes fairly natural.. This is interesting to me, and I think others. The visual of the scenery of where you live combined with some rambling by yourself is interesting.

I appreciate the replies. But, how about something that is a little more price friendly. The Go pro's are $199+ for 720p and $399 for 1080p which also eliminates my zoom. Now.. someone asked what good is zoom while you are moving. I prepare the zoom before I go.. to the device/area I'm focusing on.. remember this is NOT a camera to show the road ahead of me.. my Dashcam will do that. This is to focus (and due to obviousness of small electronic screens.. "zoom" from there to acquire that image of the screen). I don't zoom in and out while driving. If the Go-pro had zoom.. I'd likely fork out the cash somehow.. But anyone have any cams that are tiny.. likely meant for action/cam purposes and/or dashcams (I'm finding these are often interchangeable).. That have a zoom? If so, mind posting any links? Someone mentioned a $90 one.. that is definitely in budget. The zoom doesn't have to be outrageous.. just a bit I can adjust on the camera as I setup before taking off.. And I often reset at other locations mid trip.. Which zoom in nearly always needed.. again, to read the information on such screens. Sounds like the mount isn't going to happen -- So camera links? I'd prefer to keep this camera for my other uses, and have a $100 or less camera for this particular use. I will also have a Mobius cam for my dashcam but it will stay permanently behind the Rearview mirror and serve another purpose.. as a Dashcam, 24/7. Thanks!

Hey guys, I have been struggling with this for a few months now. Basically I am trying to figure out some way, any way,.. to get my Canon HF R500 (8oz without battery, 10.1oz with battery) Video Camera to give me footage in car without shaking. I film a lot of electronics for various other reasons on the windshield area, dash area etc.. and It is vital I eliminate shake so these screens can be seen somewhat clearly. I've searched mounts,.. asked in other types of forums.. but really haven't gotten much solid help. Basically I have been using the Fat Gecko Dual suction mount to mount this 10-11oz camera (that's with battery) onto.. Mount: http://www.amazon.co...=fat gecko mini I've moved to all locations.. Rear hatch, Passenger window,.. Front windshield.. it all results in the same unacceptable shake. Here is a quick clip of the shake I'm referring to: The Gecko mount is a fairly good one.. it's solid.. but obviously doesn't do the job. I've put the camera between the bottom of the passenger headrest and the top of seat.. while tightening down the headrest just to see what that would do.. It's all the same amount of shake. I'm at wits end here. This camera isn't absolutely crazy heavy and is a mid grade video camera ($300) .. Solid 60 Frames per second, 1080p.. with a host of features. Although I'd sacrifice a ton of that quality for just a stable image while the car is moving. I can't believe this is such a hard thing to find a solution for. I thought surely there would be some mount.. even if for $100 that would dampen the shake from the car I could get.. but I don't find any.. nor does anyone I've asked on forums refer me to. If there is just ZERO way to make this video camera stable in a car.. I'm willing to sell it (probably get $250 at best) and buy another camera.. but if I do so, I need references to a camera that will give me the results I"m after.. no shake (or very little). I've seen other people on track day videos.. with cameras that looked to be mounted on their rear hatch (INSIDE car).. that looked to be with literally NO shake.. So this is definitely possible.. so just need some direction. If there is just no way to go about it with this 10oz camera.. (uses a standard camera mount/thread) .. with some special mount, or other ideas.. as I said I'll sell this thing and get another camera. However, I do need the camera to have the following at minimum: 1) Zoom function 2) Take removable media SD card (I don't think this is an issue) 3) Be able to run a few hours on battery.. as I'll be moving it around.. Though I can entertain some cheaper ideas of cameras that need constant power if the price is right. First try to figure out or direct me to a solution (DIY or purchased) to stabilize this camera in car.. and secondarily,.. direct me to another camera to buy. (I'm open to mounts, even those up to $100 or so give or take). Some have said that my camera is just too heavy.. at 8 ounces.. and I need a lighter camera. Which I can understand,.. but the shake is directly in correspondence with the cars movement.. so I'm not sure how well this translates or why it would? A lighter camera is still going to pick up the vibrations of the cars suspension, etc.. I'm all for grabbing a cheaper "dash -cam" that would be rock solid, but it needs to meet the 3 criteria above.. so a little research would be needed I think to find one that has a zoom function (even if it's controlled via an application on my phone). Your help is tremendously appreciated..

lol I get 20-21 mpg with my perf mods (have run out of NA mods to do..).. that is with tune. I've thought about cleaning both MAF's.. but with the low miles on the car and getting 20-21mpg I think it best to leave the MAF alone unless you are experiencing a very noticeable issue.. like 13mpg.. good lord. When I was doing my data logging.. driving full throttle in various gears.. sometimes getting up to 135mph .. ie: 4th gear run.. the worst my MPG got to was 15.7 .. 13mpg, wow. What year and how many miles are on the car?

So,.. where are your pics of your first mod? Slacker

Go for it. As long as you have the cash to do so.. The bug bit me straight away. As for your "preservation". It's good you have this in mind, but think of it like this: As long as you don't change anything that came with the car, it's fine. So.. while your wheels aren't really that valuable,.. you should find wheels you like .. Replace them and put the wheels you have up in storage. Same goes for the rest of the car. Every mod I've done I've kept the original part of the car so if I want to restore it back to 100% stock I can do so. Many sell the parts for a little extra money for their next mod,.. but I think it best just to keep the parts as "stock" cars generally sell better than modified ones. So again,.. go for it.. Try to *pace* your mods so you can spread out your "fun" as it were... I went pretty fast,.. and tapped my cash and did most all performance mods on a Naturally aspirated VQ35HR motor (that are worth it).. which aren't that many. So my focus was on performance, and turning this Base into a GT.. which I did. So I installed a 5k sound system, (yah, went a little over board there.. but it was fun, hard work that paid off..).. Installed an Invidia gemini dual Cat-back.. Installed (well had a mechanic install while I helped..) Berk High Flow Cats.. Installed dual K&N, installed mishimoto intakes, etc.. Then did an Uprev tune with one of the best Zed tuners in the States and am pulling 300 Rear wheel HP and the car has Cruise, and all the options you guys have automatically because you didn't get a base I have a 2008, so I like my Wheels.. But if I had a 2003 for example.. wheels would have been the first thing I did. Make a "build thread" and post your mods as you do them.. It's fun for you, is a nice journal to reference the progression of the car,.. and is fun for everyone else to read/look at. Enjoy!

Nice find, clean car.. low miles, great price. Did good! As for getting addicted to your Zed + Mods .. well... one look at my (or everyone else's) Build thread(s) will show you just how it gets.. Maybe you are immune.. I think it took me 3 weeks before I was modding? Have fun and learn the car!

Glad you liked it. Some people are analytical, thinkers, curious, (you need these type of people for all your gadgets and innovation etc..) -- People like this enjoy what you seem to think is being , well, ridiculous I suppose. To each their own,.. I don't knock your kind,.. don't knock mine.

Please.. I love analyzing .. it's what I do .. And when it comes to things I am passionate about, well, I get a little carried away. It's the same for the HR -- Well not the indicator/shift point.. but the Shift light coming on early. -- My "testing" has shown the Shift light comes on between 300-600 Rpm BEFORE the RPM you set it at. (There is an exact RPM that will apply to all 350's.. I just didn't test that specifically.. someone will know, otherwise I'll find out tomorrow ) -- Anyhow.. So I set my Shift light at 8000. My Rev limiter is 7800,.. So that pulls the light on at about 7500 or so.... Which is just about right with the Tune/mods and is right in general anyways.. We just don't want to let it hit the Limiter (wherever it is in your particular car) as then the Fuel cuts off repeatedly and that's going to kill your performance and shifts.. So for me, having the initial light blink at 7500 or so is Juuuuuust about right for my shift to hit before it hits the Fuel cut off. The light changes it's frequency as well.. That initial blink(ing) is slower/less often than the closer you get to the actual setting. Personally I don't need 5 blinks before I notice it.. I love how the RPM gauge is the largest and Center gauge in our cars.. the first blink of that trips my peripheral to shift.. Plus after a while you get used to the noise, and can get VERY close to shifting by sound alone at these high rpms. (We can all shift by sound (I hope) in normal driving ). Interesting.. I'm very interested in the exact RPM for each gear (or if it's one RPM across the board) for absolute best MPG. With my tuning Hardware, software (osiris, Cipher, etc) It doesn't have a fuel economy readout (not directly anyway.. I'm sure it can calculate based on A/F mixture and all the other readings).. So we can't really get a real time MPG readout.. especially over time. So be nice to get this done.. by a tuner, or someone who could create a program to take the OBD paremeters and calculate them in real time on their laptop (or phone I guess) as you drive. Then post a similar graph for the DE, and HR motors.. So we know. The lowest RPM as a "general rule" is right.. but as you get higher in gear (or lower, however you look at it..) -- Ie: Say past 3rd gear or so,.. There is a bit of an issue with lower RPM and torque. If you notice you will have to press the gas pedal in further with say a 1500 rpm shift in 5th gear than a 2200 or so. So I think there's a little more specific RPM to shift that's a touch higher than the lowest possible for maximum MPG. In street driving you need to keep acceleration at least average to the other cars on the road for it to be applicable for normal driving.. otherwise you could be at 2 percent throttle and take X minutes getting to speed lol. Of note: Post Tune I get 21 MPG solid (after it's learned the tune/fuel settings) -- That's a little lower than stock form, but not too terrible imo. Also of note: The worst MPG I get (over longer runs) when I am slamming the car (primarily tested this when I was doing my data logging for tunes.. where I'd be slamming it from 1500-7800RPM full throttle in 3rd and 4th gears.. among other such.. just lots of hard driving over 40-50 miles in a few hours of logging that my worst MPG calculation was 15.7 mph,.. I was a little surprised it was that high. At full throttle driving and being about as hard on the throttle as you can expect I figured it to be running well under 10mpg.

Hey guys.. (and ladies).. I have a fairly large need to find a mount that I can use that will suction/fit to the plastic bits of our cars.. Dash.. that bit behind our seats on top of the two cubby's you can open.. as I do a lot of Recording, and have a ridiculous amount of gadgetry in the car.. For this purpose I will be mounting a higher end Bluetooth speaker that will run off my passport Max Radar/Laser detector just behind the driver seat (on top of the plastic there above the two slots you can push in to put some documents, etc , in..).. The regular suctions cups mount on glass, or the body of the car (outside).. but the plastic.. not a chance. I've looked around but other than some permanent adhesive I can't find anything. Any ideas?

There ya go.. I just turned 35 myself.. So not quite midlife crisis time yet.. but "old enough" to not rag this one out like I tended to do with my first Zed (Z32) back in the late 90's..

Great! I was actually right in one of my few guesses of things to check - And I'm glad to hear (no pun intended.. or is there? ) that it was just a loose/broken heatshield.. and nothing that costs any real money. Right on! Thanks for posting the follow up here.. hate when people don't post follow ups, as follow up's really help when searching for potential reasons why your car is doing X.. Think you can handle getting it fitted back in there? Or you just going to pull the shield and leave it off? If you do pull the shield, I'd recommend wrapping sensitive items around it with heat shield wrap.. will work fairly well. I'd probably retap the holes and put in some larger bolts.. Or possibly tig weld it back on.. OR, the easiest for a DIY'er would probably be to drill a large pilot hole, then use a self tapping metal screw/bolt to put it back on , perhaps with some lock-tite. This is one of those things that has about 2 dozen ways you could re-fit it back in there.. Or, leave it off.

Heh.. Yeah the pair acoustically don't win any awards. That said,.. Slave Cylinder issues aside the pairing work quite well imho. If you reaaaallly wanted to make the Zed quiet in regards to the Tranny/clutch it could be done.. but meh, if it embarasses you at idle, push the clutch in lol.. Otherwise my exhaust is far too loud to hear it otherwise.. and after that initial start in 1st (which sometimes I get just right for no odd noise).. my box is smooth (oh boy ) ...

yeah that Group is fun to watch.. but nothing I need at the TIME ever pops up.. It's always AFTER I get it, it pops up. Sigh. Like now I need a nice Used (mint condition) Homelink Rearview mirror to replace my Base model mirror.. But I guarantee you if I post on there WTB ... No one will have it. Then after I get it somewhere.. BAM,.. it will pop up for like $25. Wheels aren't THAT cheap.. lots of wheels are like $3000+ .. I don't really consider that cheap. But I guess it's all relative,.. though again, I like the factory design I have.. Just needs some refinishing due to curb rash and a little odd staining.

You SURE it didn't? I'm not doubting you hehe But.. I test drove a brand new 370 last week (just for fun).. and They are even LOUDER.. can you imagine? -- Anyhow.. It's the nature of our clutches/flywheels.. They sound broken, or like something is direly wrong with them.. I'm certain some 350's sound louder than others while still remaining in perfect operating order. I've noticed mine got a touch louder since buying it 4 months ago.. But still well within what I'd call normal for 350's. Otherwise -- I'd Check your Clutch fluid,.. And it wouldn't hurt to change your transmission fluid "proper". Some swear by the Synthetic Redline stuff.. others say the Nissan OEM fluid is miles better.. You can make that choice, it's super easy to do.. (relatively anyway).. I would also check under the car for any loose exhaust components, bolts, heat shields, and the like. If you can.. Use your Phone.. or a Camcorder if you have one and go warm your car up.. and in neutral, at idle with E-brake on.. Record a short video standing on driver side and move the phone/camera around to pick up the noise in various areas. It would give us a *little* better idea of the sound you are hearing, although of course won't be as good as in person. Lastly, if it really freaks you out.. Bring it to a shop that deals with Zeds -- They'll tell you normal or not in about 2 seconds.

Good info. Those prices sound great. Like I said.. if prices around here to make them look like they did from the factory (I don't want anything different really.. no need for chrome etc..).. are oh.. under $300 or so.. It's something I'll definitely do. But, if it runs say 4-500+ dollars.. then, meh.. I can live with what I have. At that price I'd just assume be in the market for new wheels. Thing is I really, really like the factory 18" wheels on this 2008.. No aftermarket wheel really appeals to me SO much to fork out 1000's of dollars.. I'm not a huge "wheel" guy.. I certainly am picky about wheels.. and about 90% of them on cars I see on the road I don't like. But, these I do. For example.. (no offense to anyone).. these wheels that came on earlier models I would be looking to replace. They were just too small for the car.. and the design leaves a bit lacking.. Nissan really did a good job by making them a little bigger and adding some curves later on. However, even that said.. they look better than most wheels on most cars sold out there still

To a large degree this is normal for the Zeds.. They have noisy flywheel/throwouts, etc.. Just they way they were made. Now it can be excessive, but many people would think the noise every manual Z has with the clutch disengaged, or a first gear disengage/start makes is some horrible problem when that's 100% normal. So, I wouldn't worry too much about it. If it's a noise that wasn't there.. and you've had the car a while.. and now has appeared.. that's a bit different. I'm glad I knew these cars had noisy tranny's/clutches before I went to test drive the one I ended up buying.. lol.

Well that was the company.. Talked to them,.. and the smallest they sell is 5 gallons! ack! It's $115 for 5 Gallons (19 Litres).. which is obviously way more than I'll ever need. I guess I could get it , split up, and maybe one or some of you would want a gallon.. but that's probably hard to say before you see it.. Though I DO have about 10 ounces the guy at the Car wash gave me.. So I can make a video of that when I do my next wax.. and if it "super" impresses anyone then maybe I will order the 5 gallons.. and someone will want some of it to help offset the cost Although with the prices of some of these Tire shines (the most expensive ones) .. $115 isn't INSANELY high by any means.. it's just 5 gallons is a monster heh. LIterally could last someone the rest of their life.. or at least a decade+..