Chromatic

I'm not crazy about America to be perfectly honest for quite a while now.. As for the info -- It's not that the UK paints differently than the US.. I didn't say.. "Hey guys, can you give me a referral to a spot that does good work? " -- I'm perfectly capable of finding a place to do it.. just wanted to feel it out. And as for asking here.. Frankly the US forums.. the big one anyway.. is full of well, Americans, that while this place has it's a-holes like anywhere else.. that place has them everywhere. I like this forum.. people are more civil and friendlier.. the US forum is full of info but is often not a pleasant experience. When I join a community I don't want to feel like "Hrmm.. if I post this question, etc.. am I going to get my head bitten off for it.." Not that it's any big deal, it's online.. but perhaps you understand. Heh,.. yeah, that is a bargain -- The few thousand for shipping is totally worth it

I second this.. The LCA's aren't likely to allow that kind of play.. but while you are in there test for movement on them (and for that matter all the suspension components) -- You may find something has some play that can be remedied very easily. I'd almost bet on it.

Oh man.. it's everything you expect and it's one of those cars that you get in and it keeps on impressing you weeks/months after you bought it. You won't regret it

Bought the 2008 when I was 34.. and now am 35 I think age is interesting.. for those who say they are 30 something and are old.. I have a strange feeling when you are 60 something and look back you are going to be like man I was a kid (or at least young ). Anyhow.. 16 Bought used 300ZX (loved it). 19 Bought 1994 Mustang GT (5.0) -- Age 21 Bought 1991 Fox body (Trunk. ie: Non hatchback ) Mustang 5.0 -- Age 24 - Nissan 240SX -- Age 27 (quarter life crisis? lol) Lexus LS -- Age 32 - 2006 Pontiac Solstice (Toooooo Small for me) -- Now this beautiful Zed.. By far the 300ZX and this 350 are the best cars out of the lot.. no question.

Thanks.. it's a start, so much more to do. I've been putting so much money into the car performance, and otherwise that I have to give the wallet a bit of a break But,.. I don't know on the engine cover. I sort of like the Silver factory it's painted already. I'm all for engine dressing, but I'm a little more on the conservative side with styling/colors. IE: I don't think I'll ever go start painting 75%+ of all the engine bits a certain color like Mopedmark -- Just not me. Though I will likely do the hoses Red, ground wires red, Hand paint the Dipstick handle, Washer fluid cover, and things that are obviously eye sores. Yeah I was on blue the whole time till I started comparing both blue and red setups side by side and Red just caught me more.. Color is very much a personal decision.. This whole thread and question I originally asked is not one really with an answer that can be given That looks great. When painting yourself it's also a huge money saver and even better you can get the same color/theme on everything instead of buying pre painted bits that often are shades different (which just won't work in my world lol ). I'll be doing some painting of bits myself.. I think I can still afford that right now. I could use some "pro tips" from you on methods, paint, etc to get that clean, professional look like you have clearly accomplished here. *Hint* feel free to PM or just start giving out your process in this thread.

Hey guys, The prev. owner nicked two wheels (not badly) and nothing that MUST be fixed really.. but I just actually nicked another wheel going 0.1mph (pulling into the night drop box at the bank to deposit).. and it just felt like the tyre rubbed the curb slightly.. I got out to check and about a 2 inch long, quarter inch wide curb rash is there. About like what the prev. owner did on the other two wheels. Plus something is up with my Front wheels on this 2008 350.. They have what looks like Brake dust that the prev. owner let cake on the wheels and never washed off for a LOOOOONG time (years) and bake in the 100F+ heat,.. that doesn't wash off. I guess a picture may help show this: Front Wheel - Stains As you can see it's not something that is Insanely obvious (as from more than 2-3 feet it's not noticeable).. but add all this up and I am considering doing something to make the wheels look "new" again (if the price isn't bad). Oh, I only suspect that the above picture is due to brakedust because it is only on the front wheels.. the rear wheels are perfect in everyway. But I could be wrong Anyhow... What options do I have? I'd be perfectly happy just to have the exact same finish on them now redone. Is this the cheapest option? Are there different types of "methods" to paint them? If so what are the "general" costs associated? I know we are on different currencies but I can convert and I just want rough figures anyways.. IE: If it's $1000 to do it, that's too much.. If it's a few hundred dollars.. more likely I would get it done. And I guess is there any "self repair of light curb rash and such to make it look better (I'm sure not like new).." But,.. something to hide it a bit that won't just wear off with half a dozen wheel scrubs? My wheels .. like most of the factory 18" wheels are actually finished in Black then they put the silver over to give the look they have (or so I read).. So when you get any bit of a nick no matter how light it shows up in black as the top layer is rubbed off.. Thanks

I have done extensive Datalogging on this in the Zed. As I am tuning my Zed now.. almost finished with it.. I get the real time readings of BOTH speed sensors our Zeds have. (Yes, they have two.. and they both are slightly different (vary usually about .1 to .3 tenths of a mile an hour.). And the Analog and Digital Readout in our cars is ALWAYS high. Though it's not as high as 3-4 mph. It is .5mph to 1 mph Higher than the true speed you are going. (Of course this is from dozens of hours of ECU data logging with Cipher on MY car only,.. I would anticipate this would apply to all the Zeds. I do believe they calibrate the Speedometer and Digital Readout to = Speed Sensor + X. Which again is from 0.5 mph to 1 mph HIGHER (on the speedometer/dig. readout) than the actual speed of the 350. I like this.. as it gives you a tiny bit of room in these cases in your favour, but not so much that your speedometer is vastly inaccurate .. if it were 3-5 mph higher than true speed it would annoy me, "Personally".

I am in the US,.. so this is interesting to me. As I'm sure most of you know the Cops here are insane, and frankly thugs most of the time. But.. it seems like the silver lining is we get a little more leeway in regards to a "buffer" zone over the posted speed limit (99 percent of the time anyway).. I see going 33-35mph in a 30mph zone for example is grounds to be considerably worried for a ticket, points and all that go with it.. In the US, in general,.. You are always given 5mph over by 99.9% of police.. and a great percentage will give you 10mph -- and at 11mph over will always ticket. Now this doesn't necessarily mean in a 30mph zone you can go 40mph and be fine.. But 65 in a 55 is usually ok.. (about 50/50).. but 62 in a 55.. you don't have to worry about it. On the interstate (70mph speed limit here) -- I generally cruise it about 75-77mph... but I'm more conservative than most out there averaging 85mph a clear 15 over.. If you are going 82 in a 70.. you probably aren't going to get ticketed unless the cop is in a speed trap and hasn't had any good hits on the radar (or LIDAR) for a while .. Go 77mph in a 70.. your fine. 75mph in a 70.. I'd pay your ticket if you got pulled over.. it's that rare. Here's an example article that sort of speaks on this.. http://www.norwalkreflector.com/article/3293516 Don't misunderstand me.. the US is TERRIBLE about pulling people over everywhere.. we have more police per capita than just about anyone.. and if you live in a reasonably low crime area you better believe they are focused on speeding and other relatively "minor crimes" to pull people over. Also,.. Speeding is speeding.. it's up to the Cop,.. Technically they can grab you at 1mph over .. And some cops are just highly anal and will get you at 75 in a 70 (while 12 cars pass you going 85mph).. Where I live general speeding is like this.. Under 25mph over posted limit on a regular road (not a school zone, construction zone, etc) is $180. Then over 25mph = $200 . Reasonable prices imo esp. for 25mph over. Now $180 for going 72 in a 70 zone is not so great if you don't do a Defensive Driving class/school adjudicated by the judge. Though.. If you are going 25mph over the cop has the discretion to easily say you get the ticket $200 + another ticket for "reckless driving".. ($660 fine + mandatory Court appearance.) Anyhow.. I'm on topic, but likely boring you guys haha.. This is from a city where I live (I live in a County, but also a City (two cities lol.. ).. all at once). You guys might find it interesting to see the charges and *general* fines for them. Anything listed on this is an offense that does not require a court appearance and can be paid and essentially is legally like you going to court and pleaing guilty. http://www.hooveral.org/DocumentCenter/View/49 Is it that rough all over the UK? Or is it more under discretion.. some roads going 34 instead of 30mph IS dangerous to you and others.. and some roads the speed limit is just too low (We have more of that due to how generally how big the US is.. ) I ask because I like police who use that discretion .. where it really is dangerous well it should be ticketed no matter .. But in other areas the same officer would give more leniency due to the road properties itself. Again, g'luck!

Thanks Joker. I went with Red to start the Theme. Since I've put on Mishimoto 3" Intakes and Air Diversion plate. This is a start, and how she looks:

Perhaps you could sort the original guide? And make the youtube vids show up instead of being links? Thanks for the sort.. I went ahead and re did the guide to work with the limitations of this forums settings.. All videos should be clickable now proper. Thanks Almeida1234! Also... it would be super awesome if you could post more than 2 Youtube videos in a post. Would really help on guides, etc.. It's using offsite bandwidth so I don't see it being a huge issue? Maybe remove the limit in the forum settings, or increase it to 10? Take care,

Have to agree with Superstu here: Once you go to a good Aftermarket headunit you won't think twice about it. You will get so used to your favourite functions of the aftermarket.. ie: whether it's playing Pandora, or Spotify, or your Ipod, etc from your Iphone (or any of the tons of app music streaming services).. or Loading a 64Gig USB stick like I tend to do,... Having your phone synched auto to your headunit USB with USB built in the car for phone, texting, etc (hands free).. or you may like watching DVD's if you spend time in the car sometimes needing to "burn" time.. point is,.. as you can see the aftermarket units all "flush up" about the same.. Yes, you can see there is a trim piece that makes them look , well, good.. without a gap around them.. but them sticking out just a touch is just really an aftermarket look frankly.. and 99 out of 100 people will tell you your new aftermarket unit looks better than the old flush factory unit even before they know what it does.. As for beeping.. I'm not trying to sell you on "my" chosen unit (It was just a good deal a few months ago for what I wanted).. but it has an option to turn the "beeps" on and off.. The Pioneer units are fairly popular, though a small percentage of people have had issues with them just dieing on them after hitting a rough pothole or similar.. (happened to me).. and then I read online .. But I'm sure that's rare as usually only problems are reported online. Otherwise the Poineer AVH-P4100DVD (a somewhat older unit) was fantastic unit I had prior to the Kenwood DDX470. I recommend you just accept our line of thought of going aftermarket,.. and just start shopping around.. take your time. Figure out what features you don't want to be without.. .. ie: Some units may be $500 (pounds) and still need a bluetooth adapter to enable bluetooth.. and similar things. Which is why I really liked the Kenwood DDX470 as I couldn't believe it was so cheap for a 6.1" touch screen, Analog controls (that you need (volume knob, Phone, Power, etc..) ) , USB built in (no extra adapters),.. Good mic to hook to it for In car bluetooth, 4V preouts (if you plan on using Amps in the future or immediately), CD player, Tuner, DVD player, etc. Has it all.. Now, the DDX470 does *not* have built in Navigation, but that didn't bother me because my Iphone links right to it for navigation.. so I couldn't justify going to the next model that had all of the features the DDX470 had + nav built in for over double the price of $300 US. But built in Nav is nice, if you use it a lot.. may be worth it. Also, don't forget the factory system WILL run on a factory headunit.. but the rear speakers likely will be VERY quiet, and just not run SUPERB as it did with the stock headunit. But,.. the factory speakers aren't that great to start with.. I've seen them all.. torn them out, replaced them of course etc.. It's very easy to spend say $300 on headunit, and $75-$100 on a pair of front speakers and power them off the headunit and be done with it (if you don't require a crazy stereo).. If you want something nicer - And are willing to self install -- You can do like I did and spend $300 on headunit, $150-$200 on front speakers.. (I happened to have a pair of 6.5" high end rears (which you DO NOT need in a 350) -- $100 on a 10" JL Audio sub,.. and $100 on a Custom Sub Box that fits in the Factory sub location + $200(ish) give or take on a nice Class D Amp with 2 channels and mono sub channel -- Or even a 4 channel Class D amp where you use two channels for front speakers, and rear two you bridge together (it's just EASY wiring that takes about 10 seconds to "bridge") to combine the channel 3 + 4 for a large number for your Sub (should you go that route). OR.. of course.. Get a professional to install where you buy.. (Can get pricey, which is the main reason I tackled my own..).. but if installation just isn't your thing then by all means pay for it. Esp if you get something like the Aftermarket headunit + front speakers that are substantially better than stock fronts to be powered off headunit (That install wouldn' t be long, or too expensive.) Just some things to think about. Take care, P.S. -- Flushing is also up to the skill and persistence of the installer (which is why it pays to install yourself (I learned how)) you can really get it looking nice with just a little patience and lining up. You also have good stereo shops around who do incredible installs that are only limited by money.. and could flush anything into your car aftermarket if you are willing to pay for it. Good luck!

I put the Kenwood DDX-470 in mine recently with my nuts audio install.. (In my build thread) .. Flushes up reasonably well with a simple Metra Double Din Trim piece.. Here is a picture just after installation .. the "lights" on it have been matched to the factory Amber now.. I much prefer the function of something with DVD, USB, built in bluetooth, CD, Tuner, Satellite, Nav, Smartphone cap,.. etc that looks pretty good than an absolute perfect flush of the factory system.. But I also needed a head unit that had the beef of three sets of 4V pre-outs for a 5 channel amp and 7 speakers/sub. Still this thing was $300 .. great bargain for it's features and is touch screen plus has just the right touch of analogue controls on the left hand side.

Perhaps you could sort the original guide? And make the youtube vids show up instead of being links?

Definitely a possibility -- Looks like they cater to the large chains.. So maybe I could contact them for a "sample" or something in a Pint, liter, Gallon etc "personal" size.. may have to sweet talk them, as I doubt they package this stuff in anything smaller than "drums"

Thanks.. The whole process is really made out in the forums (not this one but some others) to seem much harder than it really is.. Takes a little planning and research.. but once you get the parts, and a tuner who's aware of flashing a base to enable cruise (or is willing to learn) you are golden. Yeah if Nissan didn't "disable" this in the ECU it would be super cheap. $100. Still though, Nissan provided all the wiring and the computer still has all the "cruise" capability etc.. so that's pretty big. Otherwise they could have left out the wiring and it would need some aftermarket universal cruise that likely no one would do. But still.. for a car that is 30-40k US,.. I just don't see the sense in not having Cruise as a Standard option in 2008 (my year).. or even 2003.. I mean this isn't a 15k brand new car.. it's a great value, even new, for what it is.. but it's not chump change lol. Seat warmers, leather, etc .. sure.. but Cruise? Come on Nissan!

As was said... The Berk Tech. HFC's are 200 Cell Metal Substrate -- So they flow very, very well. Also ~7lbs/3.2kg a piece.. great weight savings over stock cats. Yes, they absolutely pass the MOT. They pass Visual, and Emissions direct testing. They do not trigger a CEL as they have the O2 extended threads built into them proper. I know you didn't ask this,.. but some people say they give the car a Rasp... This all depends on what you pair them with (IE: what Cat-back is going with them.) -- Personally I paired my Berk HFC's with Invidia Gemini Cat-back and there isn't a hint of Rasp.. Some people like Rasp though, shrug In my honest opinion, for the Zed there isn't a better High Flow Cat made than the Berk Technology (in total package,.. build, sound, performance, emissions, etc.) Take care,

I actually went to the place that had the tire shine that I am trying to find .. and the guy was very cool.. He tried to find out what it was.. but they get it in 55 gallon drums.. and it just says "Warsaw" on it.. Some company who makes it, has no name. It looks like a milky substance. He said he would text me when they put the empty drums out for trash as you can always get like a few liters out of them even empty if you bring a container.. Then he asked me if I had a bottle or something.. I gave him my 20 oz sports drink bottle I had in the car and he went to the dumpster area and I helped him lift the empty drum and we got about 12oz or so of the stuff.. Haven't put it on yet, But I figure that is enough for a few applications anyways. So I'll show what it looks like on the car and maybe you guys can point me to something that looks like it. Plus it has some serious durability.. I did notice that it slings after application. But for the way it looks and durability of it That's ok with me.. I'm even willing to clean up after the first drive if it doesn't "dry" where it won't sling .. I like it so much.

Check chromatic's build thread Yup it's all in my build thread. I *try* to keep it less "spammy" and related to the car. If it's TOO much , I apologize.. sort of In a little while I'm going to make a vid of the BCM functions and overall functions of Cipher.. has a sort of "cool factor" in a Gear/head dorky kind of way.. ...and post it on the Build thread. Here, for convenience: http://www.350z-uk.c...d-journallog/�� <--- Build thread. (which shows the steering wheel install, and outcome.)

Yes.. just plug and play. (Though it does require a flash if you have a base model.. but as I said in past few posts.. a Tuner can get you a ROM file to flash over for less than half the price of an actual tune to add cruise ability (technically turning your ECU from a Base model into a Touring Model is all it's doing.). For just retro - fitting on cars with cruise.. I can't say for 100% sure how that would work using the 2006+ illuminated , dual sided, controls. Though I'd be willing to bet if it's possible it's been done. And searchable online

Works fantastic! The work to add switches to clutch and brake pedals + Remove steering wheel and add in new buttons was SO much easier and less time consuming than I had in mind. I figured the pedal switches was going to be simple, and it was.. but I had a feeling the steering wheel might end up taking a few hours (As I tend to do with new projects).. but even with my relatively "slow" methodical way I do things the first time on my Zed (I check and triple check it all).. I still had all of that done in about 20 minutes. I was shocked .. It all plugs right in.. everything is there waiting on you.. Unplug the old which is just a plug with a single red wire (for horn power I imagine) and a ground wire (that has a female spade).. Then plug in the new controls (both sides linked to one plug) -- into same plug.. plug in single new ground from it... And it's connected. No wiring, no cutting, etc. Reassemble .. and you are done. Of course Base models need a Flash to tell them they are now a Touring/Enthusiast (higher trim model) but flashing the ECU took less than 120 seconds.. As I said above.. if anyone doesn't want a tune on their base, but does cruise with illuminated controls.. Uprev , I think, sells just cruise ROM's for much cheaper than a tune. And, some tuners who know about the cruise flash ability on 350's will sell you a License/and ROM for $200 IIRC, (it's no more than $300 I know.) If the tuners there don't have this ability/or want to mess with it.. It makes no difference if you are in the UK and are doing something with a tuner from US.. I know the guy/place I use (remotely) would sell it to any of you guys for same price.. as it's all done via email. You may be able to get a ROM file for quite cheap from a tuner and then bring it in to a local tuner there and get them to flash it over for cruise ability (considering it's not really necessary to have the cable, software, etc JUST for cruise.)

Exactly.. I only was just told the 03-05 or so 350's steering controls don't light up.. So it would cost you exactly $54.96 (US) to have controls on both sides and have them lit up (providing the older plug is similar enough to the 06+.. I would imagine the lights just work off the power the rest of it does.. It's cheap enough for someone to attempt I suppose. Frankly, with as many enthusiasts are out there I bet a search would net someone who has tried "successfully, or unsuccessfully" to do so already. I think I'd pay $50 US for illuminated controls and having them spread out (on both sides of the wheel).. Again, the input/output plug may not be that "easy" where you just spend $50 and spend 10 minutes taking off old, putting on new.. and it all works. Though.. I just took a base model with no cruise, etc.. and in under 20-30 minutes had all the hardware in, including pedal circuits etc.. I had to make a slight adjustment to the steering wheel after the first attempt as I drove it the wheel was about 1" off center... and I immediately turned around.. used a flathead screw driver and a mini torx driver (REALLY comes in handy to remove those side bolts without stripping).. and use my cordless impact gun (super handy/variable/and not too much torque) to take the entire steering wheel off, airbag back out.. (well wheel tech. didn't have to come off.. but it was same procedure.) -- held the wheel in place with my knee's (when I pulled in the driveway I made sure I pulled in straight.. and so the wheel was offset by as much as it needed to be re-adjusted back to the center.) --- Used the cordless impact 19mm socket/driver and zip zip .. fixed.. Point being, the second time took no more than 5 minutes , if that, to take all that off and back on.. and it's straight as a (insert something really straight ) now. As for the parts in total -- It really is inexpensive to fit a Base model for cruise.. only expensive part is the tune to flash ECU to a higher trim model so it knows to turn on the cruise function. So it was $650 for me since I'm doing the work myself on tune (with a remote tuner in another state taking my datalogs and fine tuning the "tune" back and forth via Email.) etc.. That said, I've talked to him and he said he could/does offer just a tune flash for like $200 I think? And I have read elsewhere that is available.. which would obviously just flash your ECU to a higher trim but not change anything else from stock. So Cost = $300 for cruise (if you do your own labor on the controls, switches..) I think that's reasonable. For anyone with a base who needs a tune anyways,.. well,.. the cruise is just a really nice 'extra' free benefit (aside from the $100 for parts). Honestly, I've said it before, but I use cruise so much that the $650+ parts is something I may have paid JUST for cruise ability much less a tune.

Yeah I thought so too.. All the 350's Buttons light up right? I heard some talk when I was finding part numbers to get the right buttons for this car that some people didn't get their buttons to illuminate? Surely that's not true. Mine's a late prefacelift and doesn't have illuminated controls, think they were introduced with the facelift model in 2006. Pete Ah, I see. So no illuminated (steering wheel) controls on regular 350's prior to 2006? Glad they decided to add lights.. seems a dead obvious thing to add given at night time I can't see a thing on my steering wheel.. so the illuminated controls, while somewhat dim,.. really help. If anyone without the illumination could do A LOT less work than I've done to just have what you guys have automatically.. "Cruise, volume, seek, etc.." to add illuminated controls. Could probably run your headunit/radio's illum. wire to the back of the controls (not the ones you have.. but could grab some from a later model I suppose) and They would light up with the headlight switch (first tick that turns on driving lights turns them on). I'd imagine just running from the fuse box off a power source that is on/off with ignition (which is most) would work as well and may be an easier wire path as the whole lower plastic base of the steering column comes off. But.. that said.. you get used to things. I'm already in just a few days quite used to my cruise and switching maps -- and that is with my regular cluster that doesn't light up Cruise and Set (even though they are printed on it.. doh) -- I really thought I'd go with a second hand cluster and get the mileage changed and all that.. but the more I drive now with this setup.. the more I don't see a need for it. I don't need a light to tell me when cruise is on.. it's quite easy to press "on" then "set" and well if your car keeps speed without your foot on the accel , it's on And for maps.. Holding the Set/accel (the toggle switch up top for cruise) and pressing the next button 1, 2, 3, 4, or 5 times dictates your map.. Doesn't need a blinking light for me either. I like how the maps change at any time.. I can be going 60mph down the road and without looking change to say map 5 and it changes on the fly. I thought map changes would likely need to be done with the engine off or something of the sort.. So that's unexpectedly nice. The Valet map is nice.. I"ll use it with any place I drop the car off for anything.. tires, maintenance I can't do.. etc.. It limits it to 3k RPM.. but I thought that would let you go to whatever 3k in 6th gear equals,.. but it also secondarily and simultaneously limits the top speed to 32-33 mph. Which is plenty to move the car from the parking lot to shop and back out.. but not enough to have any "fun" with the customers car lol. I may make the Video this evening on all the functions I "know of" so far with the Uprev/Osiris/Cipher software/hardware. Who knows, one of you guys may decide you want to run with an E-Tune instead of dropping it off somewhere. Both have their advantages and disadvantages.. I won't list them here for brevity.

Yeah, the police generally blow you off unless you can interest their "day" or evening with something in their boredom of patrols. I'm sure the car pulling up to them caught their attention a little.. but then the question was likely unusual.. and then I opened the car up for them to take a look at what was going on.. (IE: I wasn't trying to find some area to go "Street racing" with friends/others on.. ) they thought it was cool. It does look cool.. Plus I have other electronic setups going in the car as well so it looks a bit like a Police cruiser inside only with sort of the opposite tools lol.. I have the Escort Passport Max detector mounted, synched to an extra Iphone 4 with the Escort Live App going,.. the Headunit looks rather neat I suppose.. and then laptop connected to a power inverter with the Cipher software going lol.. So they got a short kick out of asking me questions about it and were happy to give me some spots that were legal/no longer in use by public. I'm just glad none of them asked to drive it.. I don't trust many people driving my baby, much less a police officer (though I guess they are more qualified than most... so it's my negative experiences with officers in the past weighing in there lol). And yes.. The cipher software is so very cool.. as is the Osiris, ROM Editor, etc.. I'm going to do a Video on software just holding the camera in a hand (not on a mount) on what the software does -- And my admittedly , at best, 50 percent understanding of it. I know what most of the Parameters are,.. just honestly I don't know exactly how they all tie in together precisely.. I'm learning/reading .. but It is a lot to get down proper. I just figured out you can change the colors of the screen..although that default amber color seems to be one of the easiest to read layouts.. but I can show that as well. The stuff has other BCM options in it.. Where, for me it's just a toy, .. but I can see it being quite useful -- Where you can unlock the doors, roll down windows, turn on any light in the car, turn on and off warning lights on the dash and a ton more.. (I'll leave that for a video..) I thought that was cool to be tapping buttons on a computer screen and your rear hatch interior light coming on with the hatch closed (as I also have separate LED's under the strut bar linked to it ) lol.. I'm always needing more light in the car when doing stuff

3) (Slow Accel Log) I actually did three solid pulls of this one as the speeds were very comfortable and sent all three to the Tuner.. But since they are so similar just uploaded one of them. (10% Slow Throttle/Accel from 1,500 RPM - 5,000 RPM in 4th Gear (Tops out around 85-87 Mph/ ~140 Kph) The logs turned out very smooth , nice curves... If anyone is into Tuning and wants to see them just let me know I'll post them up here.. Hope the (almost 7800 in 4th is "good enough" for my Tuner.. Felt a little unstable at those speeds on the older road I was on (Slight bumps/pot holes are magnified greatly). This Cipher software is very cool.. It can do so many more things, if you guys want me to show a Demo of all the crap it does to your 350 lemme know I'll make a Vid of it's umpteen billion functions. Take care,

Part of the "E-tuning" Process is data-logging specific things the tuner asks for to help fine tune your 350.. (Sending these logs back, Tuner sends back new ROM, rinse/repeat until satisfied). Mine wanted three things to start: 1) 60 seconds of (warm/full operating temp.) Idle. 2) Wide Open Full Throttle in 4th Gear from 2,000 RPM - 7,800 RPM 3) 10% (Very slow) Acceleration in 4th Gear from 1,500 RPM - 5,000 RPM I talked to some police about some private closed off roads I could legally do these things,.. and they were very cool after I showed them my setup, laptop with Cipher, etc. They pointed me to two different Private roads that were no longer in use and closed off (but still accessible) - and said I could use them all I wanted.. Just to be safe. If I didn't have the request for the WOT 4th Gear all the way to 7800 RPM I probably would have just done things on the Highway as the top speed(s) wouldn't have been far from normal speeds... but getting up to 130+ Mph (200+ Kph) is just nuts, imo, to do on a Public road. So with that in mind Here are the logs/runs/pulls , cut down as best as I could. 1) Boring, but neat if you've never seen the Cipher software I guess: (Idle Log) 2) (WOT Log)This got a little Hairy, thus me only getting to 7,638 RPM (of the requested 7,800) and NOT making a second attempt. (Final RPM was 7,638 and the Speed at that RPM was 131Mph/211Kmh(Kph?) ) -- I know it's blurry.