Chromatic

No lol.. Well what is up with mechanics.. I mean good mechanics that say this crap? One of them is a guy who has been doing custom work, turbo's, engine swaps, anything you name it on Z's for 25 years solely.. does hundreds of Z clutch jobs every year. He said I should just make sure that is what I wanted put in because it will make the pedal stiffer, etc. But he also claims that the lightweight flywheel he recommends won't cause any extra noise. Then says the noise people hear is because they drive the cars wrong and should give it more "gas" when taking off and not change gears so early -- (aka: stay out of the idle to 2500 ish rpm range where light flywheel noise occurs). Oh well,.. I trust him to do the job,.. he has a ton of prior work to showcase on Z's and is decent on rates. He recommended I just put in OEM master/slave and jwt clutch and jwt lightweight flywheel.. Well I'm going with the JWT clutch,.. just HD slave and master, and OEM flywheel lol. It's this kind of thing/misinformation that makes me wish I had a lift to just put the stuff in myself. But I've never changed a clutch for that reason, .. so I'll leave it to the "pros" . Take care

Interesting. I loved the one I ordered (which is above) -- Threads great,.. I don't use power tools on the drain plug,.. don't over tighten/torque. And with the synthetics I go 10,000 between changes. If you really think I should change it out for a non magnetic drain plug,.. would you mind linking me a drain plug that is preferable? I'm due to change it out as I've put 9800 miles since last change .. Thanks

I've decided on all parts and lined up the mechanic for my clutch job with oem flywheel, jwt clutch, HD slave, HD master, SS line, and nismo bearing. The parts exactly that "may" effect clutch pedal stiffness are: 1) JWT Heavy Duty Clutch Kit .. Item# L3507-NCHR0-z33 1a) IPP Stainless Steel Clutch Line 07-08: NC-312- z33 2) HD Slave Cylinder (Zspeed) 3) HD Master Cylinder (Wilwood) I don't mind a little stiffer pedal,.. but I went with conservative clutch in the JWT Clutch kit.. shown here: http://www.importpartspro.com/jwtheduclkit2.html Says stock pedal feel. The Zspeed HD Slave, and Wilwood HD Master I don't know how will effect pedal. And I've been told even the Stainless Steel line will change pedal feel over stock rubber. Since I've decided on everything,.. I'm just curious what to expect in pedal stiffness and feel over an OEM setup I have now that has hydraulic failure. My intuition/brain tells me this stuff will just improve reliability and improve the pedal feel.. and not make it any harder to push (if any additional effort is required it will be minimal). Am I wrong? Thanks guys!

I am staying OEM on the Flywheel -- instead of going aftermarket , because the Aftermarket flywheels are what drive people up the wall producing the most extra noise. I am going with the following: 1) JWT Heavy Duty Clutch Kit .. Item# L3507-NCHR0-z33 1a) IPP Stainless Steel Clutch Line 07-08: NC-312- z33 1b) Nismo Roller Bearing Pilot Bushing 07-08: 32202-09500-z33 2) OEM 2008 350Z Flywheel -- 3) HD Slave Cylinder (Zspeed) 4) HD Master Cylinder (Wilwood) I really think my homework has paid off with this selection, and I won't be dissapointed and further my goal of making this clutch system reliable for years to come will happen. I haven't decided on changing the gear oil or not.. advise it? If so.. what oils work well? *Oh and GT4 Zed.. I imagine you have a non OEM flywheel setup,.. but yes, I know the Z's stock make noise.. mine does.. my Z32 did as well. I'm find with that. I just don't want noise under load at low RPMS. Which the stock setup doesn't do.. Ie: Driving 55mph in 6th gear will make some lash noise with a lightweight flywheel.. stock it does not. Make sense? The idle clutch out rattle .. is there.. and will always be there.

Thanks Alexdax.. I was hoping more people would chime in with some brands that are clear cut choices for quality. Will any regular aftermarket clutch work fine with the stock flywheel? (I'm talking the stage 1 .. street clutches) ? I know you guys are in the UK.. but many aftermarket parts we share

Note: As usual I've posted this on another popular American forum and the responses just aren't that helpful or spiteful. You guys are always helpful. ** The reason for spending the big bucks on a new OEM Flywheel is cause I can't stand any new noises, rattles, etc.. and EVERY aftermarket flywheel has some level of noise under 2000-2500 RPM when driving.. -- (The OEM one doesn't.. bottom line.. sure all of our cars make noise sitting still with the clutch released.. but the stock flywheel doesn't when you start driving! -- there is no getting around that. So I'm going to spend the $900 on the new OEM flywheel. (If you are initially wondering why I want to go OEM with the flywheel) I know what I want and am going to do -- Which is buy a brand new OEM Dualmass flywheel for my 2008 350z to go with some Stage 1 (or 2) Aftermarket clutch (just cause that's cheaper than OEM AND better..). I am also replacing the Master and Slave cylinders (with HD units) .. adding stainless steel line,.. and that sort of thing to beef up the reliability of the system. I need you guys to try and help with links and/or names of specific clutches that will pair with the OEM flywheel on my 2008 350Z (As far as I understand it.. all of them will except the odd super heavy duty clutches designed for massive horsepower.. I have 350hp at flywheel at best.. and am not going to be adding anything substantially more.. so I don't need a clutch pedal that is a leg workout, but a slightly better than OEM.. sure! I hope you guys get the gist of my goal here. (Here is what I posted on the other forum,.. I know it's lengthy, sorry.) (Aftermarket Clutch Brand Recommendation to replace Stock OEM Clutch) I've been talking with a few mechanics.. and the latest one said I should go with a JWT Clutch and JWT Flywheel.. However, I can't stand any rattles , jutter, etc.. And I know all flywheels besides the OEM Stock flywheel on this 2008 350Z will cause some level of increased noise/extra noise under load when driving at or below 2000-2500 rpm (which I am in quite often in normal driving). So I'm going to buy and use a brand new Dual mass OEM Nissan Flywheel for $867.. I just can't figure out the best aftermarket clutch to pair with it? I have mods, but not FI.. so it doesn't need to be any stronger , really, than OEM. But Aftermarket clutches are more durable and cheaper than the OEM clutch. So if you were going to put an OEM Flywheel with an aftermarket Clutch in your 2007/2008 350Z, what would you choose for the clutch? I'd like "roughly" the same pedal pressure (a little more is ok.. but I don't need some Stage 4 700 horsepower clutch/plate ) I'll keep it that simple, as the mechanic is calling me tomorrow and I need to get everything straight in my mind when talking with him. ------------------------------------------------------------------- Read on if you don't mind giving more recommendations: ------------------------------------------------------------------- (Hydraulics - Slave/Master Cylinders, etc) I will also be replacing the Slave cylinder in this 2008 350Z, and the Master Cylinder (for good measure and because the Slave is toast now). Is there just one HD Brand for these? If there is more than one,.. Which brand of HD Slave Cylinder would you go for? Which brand of HD Master Cylinder would you go for? Since they are cheap,.. stainless steel lines aren't a bad idea -- Are they all the same, or is there a specific brand/company you would recommend? And, can I get the stainless new lines for both the Slave and Master.. or? Links or names will be a great help! (Anything else while I'm at it.. ) I've read that replacing the Roller Bearing isn't a bad idea with a better one since it's so cheap: One I've found: Nismo Roller Bearing Pilot Bushing - 07-08 Nissan 350z - $18 Stainless Steel Clutch Line: Z1 350Z / G35 Stainless Steel Clutch Line Example: http://www.z1motorsp...roducts_id=2206 Says it keeps the fluid from overheating,.. or having heat issues (which I have.. have had them since I bought this last year when driving it at higher rpms a bit). Also says helps with Pedal "feel". Point is, another "cheap" part.. Any particular Line you recommend over another? (Done) So am I missing anything for basically covering all my bases on parts expensive and inexpensive? I'm basically just asking for brand advice,.. as I want to try to get the most reliable, same noise as the car currently has, no more, Clutch/tranny type of action. I've done a ton of homework on this.. so I'm hoping maybe there is one, or a few brands on clutches that stand out as preferred,.. and for the HD Slave/Master cylinders I'm thinking there is only one brand for each? It is going to be nice to have a car that I love actually not slip at all when I get on it and row through the gears.. and the pedal not start to feel weird after just 30 seconds of over 5k RPM shifting. Thanks so much if you took the time to read any, or all of this!

I found a Z and Infiniti shop locally.. his rate is $110 an hour. Which is reasonable. But, I'm still stuck with what's wrong here. So no one has had this, or heard of this behavior? If not.. Let's say I do the clutch .. I would need: 1) Hi-perf clutch (cheaper) 2) Flywheel (Any aftermarket ones that don't make more noise than stock?) 3) New Concentric Slave cylinder.. there is a Heavy Duty aftermarket Slave cylinder that doesn't go bad.. You guys know what it is? 4) Master cylinder (Silly not to replace it while doing this.. esp. if it's a problem that is unknown) 5) Throw out bearing 6) Stainless clutch line Anything I'm missing? Should look something like this (minus the missing images of CSC and MCylinder) I know this can be done for $1000-$1400 US (parts and labor) -- fair labor for all of it is 5 hours.. at $500 (or $550 for this $110/hr guy) I'm just not sure about an aftermarket flywheel as I hear they make noise.. but some say that some "combo's" don't make any more noise.. which? Cause JUST the OEM Flywheel is $1000 -- That is nuts. Thanks!

Thanks. I leave play in it, so it fully disengages -- too tight on the fork will wear the clutch constantly. So no more ideas eh?

I've changed fluid -- Haven not put braided line. The existing line has no bulges. Pedal returns fully -- I've adjusted it a few times since I got it (and when I replaced all the pedals,.. and when I added cruise (just fine tuning the travel) -- There is no play. Pedal feel -- Hrmm.. It doesn't feel like a brand new clutch. But it's not super mushy/spongy like a really bad clutch feels. I would say it feels "Suspect" but like a clutch that's worn a bit (but this is just my 17 years of driving manuals and the pedal feel) -- could mean nothing.. I don't have another 350Z to compare it to. To be honest.. I don't have $2,000 ,.. and don't want to sink that kind of money into this car on this. What am I looking at to buy the RIGHT aftermarket 1) (better Slave cylinder).. 2) New master cylinder -- 3) Clutch kit (Which one would you recommend? -- Factory feel is fine.. though I don't mind a bit stronger grip.. just don't want anything tougher than the pedal feel / push now -- and I don't want *any* more chatter to the existing normal chatter of our factory clutches ) -- So with that in mind,.. give me a few options of clutch kits aftermarket (I assume they are cheaper than factory) to go with. 4) Flywheel -- Since it's not burned out.. Can I get away without buying a flywheel? Or trying to get this one resurfaced? Perhaps it's just fine since the clutch isn't slipping/super bad? (I ask cause flywheels are expensive, .. and I don't want the lightweight flywheel due to the noise factor. 5) any odds and ends I need to get this all put together? Finally labor! The big cost on top of this. (Let Nissan/Infiniti do it because they do it everyday?) -- Or go with some random mechanic? What's fair price for clutch, and slave/master replacement (I provide parts) Can I get away with something closer to $1,000 US? Installed (I don't have the eqipment to do this myself. And,.. while down there I do want the slave cylinder replaced (and I've read there are Heavy duty slave cylinders that are not prone to failing, instead of putting another factory slave cylinder in that still is prone to failure?? Other than just getting this all done in the next few months.. I don't know how to diagnose it. Again , fluids been changed (twice actually) -- line looks good, but isn't braided. That said, it shouldn't be doing this even with a factory line (if that were the case, then all factory Z's brand new would do this.) To have someone have a "look" to see if something is up with the pressure plate, fingers, fork, etc.. it's going to be the same sort of cost as getting all of this done/replaced anyhow.. So what do you think? And links to parts -- and recommendations for reaching my goal of as close to $1000 I can get to would be absolutely phenomenal. I know I'm in the states, but you guys can likely use the internet as well as I can to help me out with the whole "package" needed to take care of the whole clutch system here.

Hey guys,.. I've been having this Clutch issue since I got the car Dec 2013.. Had 26k .. Now has 35k. I posted about it here: http://www.350z-uk.com/topic/81268-clutch-feels-weird-when-pushing-the-car/ But basically the clutch doesn't slip in the typical manner. It drives normal when driving normal. For example.. If I put it in 5th or 6th gear while going 15-20mph (super slow).. and floor it.. the clutch does NOT slip one bit. Same for any test of that manner.. putting it in a gear that almost bogs.. that would rev up a bit with a slipping clutch. MY problem is when I get to about 4,000 RPM and above.. When I shift gears (doesn't matter which ) -- When I get into the next gear.. it will "rev" freely 100-200 rpm then come right back down to normal. It's brief but definitely not normal. I can't get the full potential out of the car and am , honestly, scared to push it too hard because I'm unsure if the clutch is about to go.. or if it's something else. I'm prepared to get another clutch put in if need be -- I just don't want to get that done if it's something else.. and waste a ton of money. I mean this car does have 35k miles and I bought it with 26k and have babied it. Does anyone have any ideas to help me isolate the problem? (The pedal doesn't fall to the floor) -- (I've changed the clutch fluid out). Thanks for any help!

I took a few minutes and looked over the car as I couldn't really find anything applicable to the 350Z with the Mobius,.. and here is what I came up with. See if you think it's a decent plan, and/or have any ideas/changes/thoughts. I thought it would be quicker to just make a 6-7 min video than try to explain it here as there has already been some confusion. Thanks,

I do too .. lol http://www.350z-uk.c...g/#entry1236282 This is for a *rear* aiming Camera -- Think of this as a Dash Cam, but for your Rear window. Make sense? (On the inside of the car)

I run stock Spoiler so rear view is as good as it gets.. I suppose unless I removed tint and the spoiler.. Frankly the rear view isn't used much in these cars.. I'm used to it though. My first car was a 300ZX,.. and my previous car was a tiny convertible Solstice so I'm quite used to not seeing behind me. This is more to have footage of what's behind me like my Dashcam, just for the rear. Your permanent solution on your headunit is not a bad idea for those who need it . I've thought about putting in a toggle switch for my Reverse Cam , but I think it tends to get hot if left on for long periods of time.. and frankly I use my headunit for other things. That said.. mind linking or posting pics of what your camera shows you? I thought about that. I'm all about being as 'unseen' stealth as possible ..within reason. I put in 7 speakers with Sub and Amp and you can't see any of it lol.. But I do have Two iphones and a radar detector in the front hardwired. The Rear strut bar is a possible area.. especially under it .. It just depends on angle. I haven't really eyeballed it very well.. the sharp slope of the rear hatch window really gives very little area to be "centered" or close to it. Which is why I ask if others have done it.. so I could go from their experience and trial and error.

Yup.. Trust your instincts. I'll take a look.. thanks. I installed the reverse camera a few months back.. Man this car is going to have 3 permanent cameras in it lol.. I just did some google searches for 350Z Rear Cam and 350Z Rear Dash Cam where to mount... And nothing really cam up useful.. some stuff about a "reverse" Cam.. but that's another matter. Thanks,

Hey guys.. I've hardwired in a Mobius Cam behind my rear view mirror for an incredible dashcam.. Example Video of my Dash Cam Footage - Be sure to change quality to 1080p! *Yes it is tilted here.. but I've since fixed the camera angle * I have thought about having one to cover the rear window.. and tonight in the rain I've decided I need to do it. I was driving home in a strong storm,.. and I was exiting the highway at 75 mph to a turn onto a main road that is 55mph. The turn is about a 40mph turn,.. but in this case this fool behind me for some strange reason started speeding up just as I was getting close to the beginning of the turn.. I had a gut feeling he was going to wreck.. (I get these intuitive feelings sometimes and I trust them..) -- So I put it down in 6th and sped up to separate myself from him while trying to maintain the Zed around the Turn in the wet.. Well I succeeded.. and sure enough right as I got to the Apex of the turn the guy behind me lost control and spun 4-5 times and slammed into the Concrete retaining wall. Had I not sped up he would have spun right into me.. (It's a two lane on the turn). I wish I had that on cam, but it was enough to push me to grab another Mobius (they are only $69) for the rear cam. I'm just trying to decide where to mount it to get a good view out of the rear hatch/boot window. I don't want to suction cup it on the middle of the hatch window because it will block my view and it's already small enough as is. So I'm thinking somewhere where the headliner meets the rear hatch window up top. I'm just not sure if that will provide a good angle for proper viewing out the rear. So has anyone put a rear cam in ? If so how did you mount it and where? This camera is as small and light as they come.. I can fit 4 in my hand for a rough size. So space is not an issue. If no one has done this,.. ideas would be appreciated. If you have mounted a cam here,.. your advice, pics, links, etc would be extremely appreciated. I'll be sure to post up how I did it myself regardless of what replies I get here. Much appreciated,

Delete Please - Double Post.

Spotted this while I was out today.. felt bad for it.. it needs a new home I think. It actually looks much better in the pictures than in person.. It's filty.. and the roof has some weird black thing going on with it.. NOt sure what's up with the blue tape.. I suppose it could be some Graduation thing.. and nothing is truly wrong with the car.. lol.

Happened again today.. wtf! lol.. At least they seemed to park on the edge of their spaces. =)

Welcome to the Zotherhood -- Nice looking 350.. Clean, love the wheels... I'd slap tint on that in a heartbeat 38mpg wow.. I average 19.1 mpg now.. granted mostly city driving and she isn't stock .. lol..

Not a bad idea to park within the Lines but as crooked as I can legally make it lol.. Then if people still flock to it.. shrug. Or be nice to see a shot of cars all around my car but one solid space between me and the next car. Well, I don't park next to other cars if I can possible help it.. but if I have to, I know I'd avoid the car sideways in a space.

Ah, snapping in the middle.. I'd crimp mine as well, and order another one in the mean time. I mean really don't need the little thing to hold the gas cap on.. but I use it anyway.. feel like I'm being all dainty as I gently hook it on the gas opening hook thing before pumping petrol everytime. -- But, the main reason I do it is so the cap won't swing around an nick the paint. I'm also very careful taking the pump out and have a "technique" not to get any drops on my paint.. lol.

Pics please

I have a dashcam going in my car now so I can show this "Z magnet theory better".. ie: The before and after. It's amusing and annoying... This is not a bad one compared to some.. it was just one I thought, I'll snap a pic of this just because I literally went in the store for less than 5 minutes.. if that.. come out and a completely EMPTY section and mostly empty parking lot for that matter has the only cars parked in it all surrounding me. Arghh! Can't they see I'm parked in a spot that isn't conducive to being "smart" about not having to walk far to the door? Perhaps they would like to park in the spots right in FRONT of the door lol.. nooo.. let's park next to the Z.. sigh. I don't say anything to anyone I mean it's their right to do so.. but when as you guys do.. I do the cursory check of the Zed if any car happens to park next to it.. or god forbid there is no where else to park but squeezed between two cars who didn't park so well.. (hurts me to do that).. So far no dings I can find.. I do have minor paint knocks.. like what you see on our bumpers from rocks.. but I believe most of those were there when I bought the car. If a door hits your car it's gonna leave an indentation.. no two ways around it. Maybe I should set the Dashcam to "motion sensor" .. it has that option.. but I have it off.. for this kind of thing. I just figured it would go off/on constantly.. guess it doesn't matter much though.. it's a dash cam looping on 32GB of memory.. lol. Should keep this thread and everyone should post a pic with their phones of this happening to them. See who takes the cake.

Well.. it happened again today.. I pull in not a SINGLE car in this entire section of parking spots.. I had 10 spots on either side of.. literally. I go into the store for 5 minutes.. come out to this. Sigh.. Just annoying, yet amusing at the same time. -- I don't mind it so much when other nice sports cars park near me for the same reasons.. but when people hover around my car when there are closer spots to the door than where they parked.. next to me.. I don't get it.

For sure.. I have some other neat gadgets I've been working on for a while to video as well.. Though they have so many features it's going to be a challenge to make the video(s) short.. lol. Oh well.. those who want to watch will, and those who don't.. can ,.. well.. not.