Chromatic

Oh man that's too far ..... Your dumped you fag lol.. Fine! -- Call me a cigarette then dump me.. whatever, we're through.

You'll learn... Hehehe.. I've been here a year'ish now.. You guys are a great lot.. I don't care what everyone else says..

Oh and I came here as one of the few American regulars (I'm just assuming here ) -- Because the difference in the community here is night and day vs. the other major Zed forum online.. no names mentioned. You guys don't jump on someone for , gasp, asking a question that has been asked before (Oh the horror!) -- And in general are just a good group of people.

Hah.. I have a name. -- What are you trying to say mate?

Good tips.. thanks. I don't deal with Time lapse, wifi, etc... I just want good 1080p HD quality with good audio.. so is why I went with the Mobius cams at their price point and so on. Though remote control of the cams would be interesting,.. and I'm sure I'll be buying more cameras as the years go on. As for Youtube.. it's simple.. you push the upload button.. select the file.. and that's it. You don't have to use Youtube.. it's just a rather easy and obviously the most popular platform with the most exposure. Most forums are now , in some way, coded to support Youtube videos -- from auto embedding them.. Or like this one having media tags to embed. I'll look forward to some videos from you! I really would like to hear your car and see your town day or night. If I had the money I would definitely go FI on my Zed.. but to do it proper with Turbo's it's 10k+ -- I read Superchargers are a little less .. Out of curiosity how much total from A-Z did you spend to have your car supercharged and I assume you did it reliably.. as I would have to do so due to this Zed being my daily driver as well. I was impressed with the huge leap your HP numbers went to!

Oh, I'm not a active for a bit then gone forever. I've been super active with my Zed the whole time.. just have my hands in a bunch of things at once I've actually done a major overhaul of the clutch system top to bottom of the Zed last month.. and will have to add it to my build thread.. unfortunately you can't really see any of it. But I did video the parts and talked about them .. just have to get it up online. I also have a killer pedal assembly setup from RJM coming in a day or two that will transform the car's "feel" and driveability. I don't even have it installed yet but from every single thread on it (thousands of people have bought and responded) it's mind blowing how much it "fixes" or makes the Zed's clutch pedal finally feel like a proper sports car should not to mention the on the fly adjustments you can make it you feel the need to do so. More on that when I actually get it installed and can report on it. (Unfortunately the mechanical engineer who makes them needs 10-15 people of Right hand drive cars wanting to purchase to make it worth the time to completely redesign it for the RHD Zeds.. as apparently due to the steering column it would require a huge amount of work.) -- Maybe I can make a solid thread with videos here on it, if it's as good as they say.. and enough people here will want one that , that will finally happen. I know plenty of scattered people in other parts of the world with RHD G35/G37 350Z/370Z's want them. But getting off subject. This exhaust video was part experimenting with the mobius cams outside the car and part something I've been meaning to do for a while. Though to truly get a 100% direct comparison I'm going to replicate the original video I did with same camera/mic again. I'll make another thread on those mobius cams.. as I'm sure many are familiar with them.. I am a HUGE (unpaid lol) advocate of them. So amazing for $79 Yeah it's a neat road isn't it? That silly SUV got in my way! Arghh.. I think it definitely warrants another video with a clear path to run it fully. It's a fun road cause it's actually steeper than it looks in the video.. and it's a LOOOOOOONG way down if you can't drive and/or are just too stupid driving it /taking turns too fast. As you noticed when I had room I did a lot of heel toe up shifting down into 2nd around the hairpin insane turns. We have a lot of nice and curvy mountainous roads here, where I live at the end of the Appalachian Mountain chain in B'ham, AL. Would that be something you guys over in the UK would want to see more of with general Z videos with the outside cam for sound and Front dash cam for the view? Also.. how did you like the picture in picture? I wasn't sure if it would be better to just leave the front view full screen an eliminate the rear cam but for audio? Nice! Fun stuff. I have become a camera and video buff the last 1-2 years.. starting with the Zed purchase. I first bought a cheap $199 Handcam.. That lacked features .. so I did some research (as I'm not a rich man) -- And found a camera I could afford that was much better in features with the Canon HF R500 -- Another handhelm type cam.. that I use quite a bit and is what I recorded a lot of the video stuff in my build thread with. Then I needed a dash cam (I think everyone needs at LEAST a dash cam.. for any car.. it's just smart for insurance purposes, accidents, (in the US, unfortunately, for police harrassment (another story there), amazing stuff randomly happening while driving that you automatically have on video,.. and the list goes on. And I also needed a cam to record some other stuff for another hobby and side "job" I have dealing with "Counter measures".. digital devices in which I needed a camera that would give a NON shakey picture for digital displays while the suspension moved the camera, and the engine (and other factors) also moved the camera. To this end,.. After months of going through cams and reading.. I found my answer in the Mobius Action cam. I bought a Go Pro (was like $400) and it was nice,.. but when I discovered the Mobius camera(s) -- for 20% of the price as the GoPro.. -- and it did the job better (was more stable).. and still recorded 1920x1080p at 30FPS .. I couldn't (for my purposes) turn down taking back the Gopro.. and buying 3 Mobius's and having change left over. Plus I can mount them and hard wire them in where you can't see them.. due to color, size, shape, (lens is mounted horizontally vs the typical point/shoot camera lens mount). But bottom line was their capability for a $79 US pricetag. You've the better camera -- No doubt. I had one,.. But I did compare the 1080p mobius vs. 1080p Gopro and there was no difference in quality. I didn't need a higher resolution than HD/1080progressive for my needs. But as I said I've been bitten by the video bug so I'll probably end up with one of the newer Gopro's esp with the wifi/remote app capability and so on lol.. I wish you would record some video of you driving around your town/city.. london, etc.. I'd love to see that stuff, with your supercharged Zed zooming in the background -- The weather is Fiiiiiiiiiiine.. lol. Go take your (I'm jealous) Supercharged Zed out for 20 minute spin around where you live.. mount up the Gopro somewhere and post it up on youtube and then here. You know you wanna.. You don't even need to edit it.. just record, and upload the raw file.

Hey guys, It's been a year since I fitted my Invidia Gemini True Dual Cat Back system, then shortly after the Berk Technology High Flow Cats -- I thought I'd record another video to show the sound for people looking at different systems and combinations -- And to show how the sound changes (gets better) over time as the exhaust systems "Break in". Now keep in mind I used a different set of Cameras for this Video "compilation" -- I used Mobius Action Cam's.. (fantastic little cameras) -- And the Audio is not bad, esp. considering this camera is 37 grams and I can fit 5-6 of these little cameras in my hand. The other exhaust video(s) I did when the exhaust was new was done with my Canon HF R500 -- Which I will use again to get a perfect contrast on sound from New Invidia Gemini and Berk HFC to 1+ Year later (12k miles+) . Some things to note here: I covered all the RPM ranges pretty much -- Left most of the normal 1800-2400 range out as we are all used to that. The audio is from an external mounted Mobius camera (and this is two pictures edited together.. so the Camera showing the reverse/behind the car is the source of the audio.. and subject to windnoise, etc). *I don't think anyone would really believe this is how loud it is inside the car hahah.. but just in case* I took it easy on the shifts because I'm just completing a proper break in of my new JWT HD Stage 2 Clutch, New Flywheel, Zspeed HD CSC, Wilwood HD Master, and all SS Lines, Nismo Roller bearing (The usual perf. replacements for the OEM stuff ) -- I've done just over 500 miles of easy, sub 3500RPM driving and just passed that mark so this is really the first time I've gone past 4k in a month or so. I never took it to the 7800 RPM Redline (Slightly higher due to my perf. build and ECU parameters with my tune) -- But in a gear or two I did bring it above 6k for sure to give that sound. The first part of the Video should have some higher RPM sound for you guys who really want someone to get on the car like it's at the track Lastly,.. I had to be somewhat reasonable with the area I drove in. It's not a track,.. and I went to areas that I know well and know no kids would be running out in front of me and so on,.. and even when I would go through a few gears .. In these cars you have to stop in 3rd (As we hit 217Kph in third). Which is mildly amusing at the 1 Minute 40 Second mark in the Video -- Where you see I go 1st, 2nd, 3rd.. Then I'm already at 160Kph/100mph or so and just for the heck of it go 4th, 5th, 6th real quick lol! Anyhow.. on to the video

I do think you are underestimating and assuming here (Just as I did a few weeks ago). No offense,.. he has the parts laser cut,.. He's one of the nicest guys you'll ever meet and this is a side thing for him.. he does batches of 20 at a time and they sell out and then he has more parts laser cut, etc.. And he hand paints and assembles them all. He prices them at $249 and his costs are close to $200. He doesn't make much money from this,.. this is genuinely a case of providing a solution that beats any other hands down with a little profit. He could easily sell these things for $499 and they would sell out. This pedal assembly and adjustments (done with the turn of a knob as you drive if you want) are light years better than anything I've seen others do on their own. Again, no offense, quite awesome of you to do modify your own pedal the way you did,.. however I suppose you have to do some reading on just what this thing does and more specifically why it is designed the way it is and how it changes dozens of things rather than just one. His revisions are him taking in customer feedback and putting it into the product to make it better, and easier to install. He doesn't increase the price when he adds more features, makes a feature better, etc. The original models had no spring whatsoever -- The newer ones do have a single spring, as I mentioned, only to ensure full pedal return every time (no more pedal drop period).. It's a very light spring which has no effect on the feel this product gives the 350Z's clutch that is not there with the factory pedal. You are happy with the way your modification performs and , for you, that is all that matters. That said, I'd be willing to bet if you had one of these just put in your car you would see what all the "fuss" is about, so to speak. Though there is no RHD model at the moment because he had a request for one and it's a major redesign and he is already a very small operation.. but he said sure, he would put in the R&D to basically create a new product for RHD if the forum where the guy asked could get 10-20 people interested in buying it. I believe 2 people responded,.. so , so far it hasn't been done. I'm not certain just how many 350's, 370's, G35's and G37's are in the UK -- but I bet on the right forum (maybe this one) 15-20+ would be willing to spend the £160 to have their clutch feel radically better and eliminate the 1st gear starts, 1st to 2nd issues some have.. actually put back in the feel of a clutch in the car,.. and the other 28 features this thing adds To me,.. this should be the FIRST modification anyone with a 350/370/G35/G37 manual should do/add to their vehicle.. hands down. You don't get more benefit than altering the way your car drives via the clutch if you think about it. I'm not selling you on it.. lol.. I talked to this guy a year ago and he went back and forth with me knowing I wasn't buying anything for a week.. The only reason I'm now finally buying it is because of the new improved products I put into my Zed and them making the friction zone (or lack thereof) SO apparent that I have been researching for days on solutions and the answer I kept coming across was this RJM Pedal. Every single person who bought it and installed raves about it like it's a miracle worker. So we'll see. I'm just this positive about it because the guy who makes it is so giving of his time and .. rather unclassically, .. not in this for the money. Which is very apparent when you see his communication between all the people who ask about the product, etc .. or if you just send him a random email or PM. Thanks Ricky for your help here though -- Your advice is part of the reason I ended up just going with this pedal to just fix the problem once and for all.

You were/are on the right track that is for sure. But, no it is not what you fabricated (but very smart). It IS based on the Fulcrum.. but since it's been designed and uses the best parts possible (laser cut, etc) -- and has dozens of other improvements to the original stock pedal.. it's not the same. But,.. no offense to you,.. but this was done by a Mechanical Engineer (so it falls right in his ballpark) as a solution to his own distaste for the clutch response of the G35, 350Z, G37, 370Z etc.. Then he was asked to replicate another for someone else and it turned into a small side business.. He is still a mechanical engineer by day Anyhow.. This is what it does: - Smoother Launches with more Control, Lower Friction Point and Predictable Engagement! - Much Smoother 1-2 & 2-3 Upshifts Shifts! - Smoother and easier 4-3 & 3-2 Downshifts! - Improvement in Pedal Feel & Clutch Control for all clutches OEM to Extreme Multi-plate and Heavy Puck clutches. - Adjustable for Stroke Length, Pedal Angle/Height, Friction Point & Pedal Pressure! - Now features a Single Acting Torsion Return Spring & Eliminates the Terrible Factory "Assist Spring Mechanism". - Rev 3.3 Features increased adjustment capabilities over older versions for more setup flexibility. - ZERO Pedal sticking to the floor after Hard Driving, Track Days or Events - Reduces or Eliminates chance of CSC failures on 07-08 HR 350Z. - AFP Adjustment Mechanism featuring a simple dial adjustment for fine tuning. - Altering the pedals fulcrum point widens the narrow factory engagement window. - Adjustable Catch/Friction Point - Adjustable Modulation Area and Pedal Height. - Significantly Smoother Shifting with much less jerking in lower gears! - Makes once rough 1-2 shifts much faster & smoother. - Works to improve ANY clutch from bone stock to heavy single's, puck types and even twin/triple disks. - All clutch types see a huge improvement in drivability and ease of use. - Increases your ability to modulate even the most aggressive on/off type clutches. - Smoother launches with better control and less shudder! - Makes heavy stop-n-go traffic a breeze without needing to rev before letting the clutch out! - Much easier hill starts without bucking or jerking. The list goes on.. the engineer , Ryan, is a super nice guy.. will always take the time to help you. He built a MUCH better mousetrap due to Nissan's utter failure in their clutch system in the G and Z series of 2003+ -- This is a CAD (I believe) representation of it: Here is it.. looks like a Version 3 model at first glance: I know initially he removed the spring(s) entirely.. (or rather didn't put any springs into his design) -- But in the later version(s) he has put a single light spring to merely ensure the pedal returns to the top (stop). The inside of the OEM pedals is like a compound bow sort of.. It goes against you.. and switches to "assist". Which some people remove the spring from the stock to get a "feel" .. cause the stock spring system keeps a very "NUMB" clutch feeling. Anyhow.. I assume you know all about it. Your self modification is smart,.. but I appreciate this guy using his professional talents to design a part we can all use that is made about as well as things can be. If you have not read up on it that much.. Go google RJM Pedal Review - or something similar. I have yet to see one person speak negative about it. The RJM pedal is THE fix all for our clutch issues. He was willing to develop a Right Hand drive version (as RHD's are very different under the dash where the Clutch is) if 20 people wanted one.. But no one organized it .. so he only has the LHD products. From the billion reviews out there.. I have zero doubt this is what I'm after (and it's fully adjustable in half a dozen different ways on the fly.. ) Speaking of the Slave. His design here.. actually reduces wear and tear on many things.. including the Slave -- The stock setup will often push the slave further than it needs to go to perform the "task" if you will.. that coupled with some pressure (trapt fluid and heat issues) will pop seals, and cause CSC/Slave failure. This design actually reduces wear and tear on everything.. Since you won't ever do the incline, stopped, 1st gear start (rough start) as is common.. it saves on the entire drivetrain, ujoints, etc.. Given how it keeps the actuator of hydraulic fluid only working as much as it needs to be by "design",.. it technically can extend the life of the Clutch disk, MC, SC, FLywheel, etc etc.. He can go into ridiculous detail on what it does/how it's beneficial beyond just being a way to turn Manual Z's into what they should have been. Not looking forward to hours under the dash.. but it's a one time deal for a HUGE payoff.

Yeah I've adjusted for hours.. Then went back and spent more hours putting it back to full pedal range (at least as it was when I picked it up a few days ago). The bottom line is you really can't do anything about it with the 350/370/G35/G37 platform. Short of taking it out and modifying it. As such,.. I think my best option (and I don't want to spend any more money lol) -- is to go ahead and pre-order an RJM AFP Clutch Pedal System to replace the OEM Nissan Clutch pedal assembly entirely to get a smooth friction zone that isn't just on/off.. no bite/bite -- With full adjust-ability I am surprised that it isn't talked about more as a "Must have" mod for the Z and G platforms with manual transmissions more given how much it improves the drivability of our cars. Even guys with Race style Puck,.. multi disc, setups that are incredibly hard to drive can apparently go from a difficult car to drive in traffic/stop and go etc.. To a very easy one with this design by the Mech. Engineer who has designed these. So.. that's next. I'm also inclined to go this route because I think adjusting the rod into the clevis is asking for Slave cylinder failures,.. possible master cylinder damage,.. excess clutch wear, and so on. When I adjusted the pedal, from very slight change to more significant change it did nothing but pull the top down (to shorten the pedal travel) -- Not helping any of the issues.. even with a shorter travel it still was a no bite then sudden bite at the very end of the pedal travel which doesn't alleviate my particular dislikes. Have you considered an RJM Clutch pedal assembly?

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Heya Ricky,.. I made a 5-6 minute video trying to show the pedal movement -- The pedal doesn't really show any signs of air in the lines. It isn't spongy, isn't falling, grips hard,.. etc -- Just engages too far out.. Simple as that. The Master and Slave are engineered for this exact make/model/year -- So it's not really possible to be too small or too big. I mean, is it not likely just the turning of the rod will alleviate this? The guy who did the work has done probably a few thousand clutch jobs on Nissans in his 25 years as a Master Mechanic solely for Nissan.. So, I am inclined to think he bled it out well/proper. Air in the line is not the first thing I would have thought of though.

Hrmm.. Well, you see in the pics there is at least a little room to turn the rod before it will bind in the clevis fork... A few turns on the old rod made a BIG difference, not sure if it's the same with this one.. The pedal does have some play (as I think it should) at the top. like, you can press down on the pedal with your hand or foot and it will give like half an inch (I haven't measured) without any pressure. You know that free slack at the top of the pedal? I think it's recommended to have X amount of free play here by Nissan specs? The point at which the pedal disengages the clutch is waaaay down .. probably 3" ish off the floor (This is the same point I can first hear the slightest signs of the throw out bearing noise, and as I continue to let the pedal out that noise gets louder to a certain point.. quite a long travel here -- but it still doesn't GRIP till right at the end of the pedal.) I guess this is why video sort of makes this easier to show.. putting it in words is very visual. I may do a quick video since it's not late over there in the UK to see what you think. Again, I'm not making any adjustments for at least 4-5 days.

Rickey.. I'm waiting until I finish my 500 mile "Break in" period of granny driving before I adjust it.. and I'm at 110 miles .. so it'l be a little bit before I do it. That said,.. would a short quick video of the pedal and master cylinder rod.. and me pushing pedal in while videoing give you any better idea? I make videos and throw em on youtube a few times a week.. so it's not a huge effort/time thing for me.

No doubt! I still like the Z32 body style (don't shoot me) the best out of all the Z's made. (Stock anyways). Yes, I have the Z33, 2008 350Z-VQ35HR,.. but I'll still admit to that. I had a Z32 back in the late 90's. Loved that car. Be sweet to have at least a Z32 and Z33 (or Z34) -- I'd probably make the Z32 a track car.. and the Z33 (or Z34) whichever I had my DD. Be super fun!

From the best of my knowledge/what I've been told...the rod is longer,.. I have been told this by the manufacturer and it is designed for the particular 350 model years .. But they do have mention of shortening (sawing) the rod shorter in some applications, but it's not standard. Another person who is knowledgeable and has this same Master Cylinder and Slave (for that matter) from both companies has commented that he actually had to learn from this.. and had his bind due to his actions (I forget precisely what he did initially) - and had to replace the Wilwood with another Wilwood MC due to this. His advice was essentially to adjust as I wanted to my preference but to simply ensure the clevis could move when pedal was not engaged (ie: get under there and wiggle it) and if it had room to move a little (this doesn't move much on it's own for obvious reasons when just wiggling it with the clutch pedal against the cruise switch/stop) -- I was ok. What is interesting to me as every different car is , well, different -- but our Z's , esp if you have a DE clutch system and all that goes with it vs another DE or an HR compared to HR -- That the stock components will be roughly the same on engagement/disengagement (Given clutch wear is the same, and components aren't failing). -- But interestingly to me,.. Is I had stock everything in it.. with 39k miles -- And the engagement point was high as it is with them all stock from factory,.. but as I went through the gears the engagement point was not as high as it was in First gear. With this new setup (Which is rock solid.. I love it) the engagement point is identical from 1st gear to 6th gear -- And the engagement point makes the car quite tricky to start from a standstill ,esp. stopped on a hill for example, in 1st gear with the engagement being literally 0.25-1" from when the pedal hits the stop (fully out). Just about anyone who would get in this car right now who was adept with a manual transmission would likely stall the car the first time in first gear like this. I guess the point is .. it's so high that it needs to come down even if just a half inch. Testing when the throw out bearing actually starts spinng (making even the smallest amount of noise) at Idle, in neutral, with clutch pedal FULLY down and slowly mm by mm letting it out -- It has about minimum 2" maybe 2-3 inches (hard to gauge how far the pedal is moving by feel without looking at the same time from the side) before that throwout even begins to spin. I'm not sure if this tells you anything about "room for adjustment" as this is on the other end of the pedal from floor to a few inches off the floor -- But hopefully that indicates that there is a bit of room to pull the pedal downwards. I do know that with this JWT HD package.. the pressure plate is 2600+ lbs of force (1200KG of clamping force) -- and that due to it's ability to handle a much higher horsepower load the pedal travel is longer to engage the pressure plate. (The first mechanic who screwed up my shifter then had to go out of town suddenly (long story)) -- Actually told me that with my JWT HD kit, stainless steel lines and HD Master and Concentric Slave Cylinder(s) that my engagement point would be almost right off the floor. He couldn't have been MORE wrong.

Thanks Ricky. I'm just super cautious because of the money I put into parts and the time that it ultimately took to get this all done the right way. (It was a headache) So now that it's all in, and done "right".. I don't want to be the moron who goes and causes it to wear out and go bad by adjusting a rod a few turns. I've read and been told that if you adjust too much (even if it sound fine (ie: You hear throwout with pedal out, and it stop with pedal in) -- That you can still cause binding and the Mastercylinder not to get it's full "action" if you will, which keeps some pressure on the hydraulic system even if slight,.. which causes premature failure, and wear the whole time. The only key thing I've been able to hone in one so far from reading and asking questions is that if the clevis/pin (near where you adjust the bolt/rod) can still move freely AFTER the adjustment it's OK. If it cannot move freely by wiggling it after adjustment, you've gone too far and it's keeping pressure on the system. The Rod is longer on this HD Wilwood Master Cylinder than the Stock MC rod was -- (I was told this by another person who has this system in their vehicle today).. So that makes me feel a little better about the way it looks right now. I see it already screwed into / past the fork 4-5 threads which on a stock rod would be / should be close to the floor (or maybe even too far) -- But, since this rod is longer that makes sense now. If anyone else would like to chime in on the safety of the adjustment here,.. and what to check post adjustment to ensure nothing is under pressure or wearing improperly -- I'm very open to it. I am not rushing to make this adjustment as the clutch needs it's break in time.

Car: 2008 350Z I just had a JWT HD Clutch package, Zspeed CSC Slave, Wilwood HD Master, OEM Flywheel, with all Stainless steel braided lines installed to fix some issues. Everything is great. Except the pedal with the new JWT clutch and HD master/slaves engages almost near the top of the pedal travel. Further up than it even did from the factory stock on this 2008 350Z. I really would like to lower it any safe amount closer to the floor for engagement. After all these expensive parts I don't want to jeopardize damaging the Master/Slave and so on. So I snapped two pictures of the adjustment rod as it is right now to see if you guys think I have room to safely turn it counterclockwise to lower the engagement/pedal closer to the floor. I've read that adjusting this (which I've done before on the old clutch) (but the Nissan mechanic adjusted this one with this new install) -- Can cause premature master/slave cylinder failure. Room to turn there? The pedal is VERY stiff with the JWT HD clutch package (I like it).. and returns up to the top very strong. But it literally engages at the very end of letting the clutch pedal out (maybe 1" or so from the top). I thought new clutches were supposed to be really close to the floor if anything,.. so this is why I'm also asking your opinions before I adjust that rod any. Thanks for any advice and if you need more information just let me know. Thanks,

Yeah I thought the same thing! haha.. I loved how all of us parked the wrong way.. like we were in a car show on display lol! Z owners sure are a proud crowd. The 300ZX's license plate was custom.. and just said "Z32".. epic he got that one, imo. Even somewhat dirty/daily drivers -- these cars really show how timeless the Z design is.. 25 years of car design there. To me the 300ZX looks every bit as 'modern' as the others. I see the 300ZX as the Dad,.. my 2008 350Z as the Older brother.. and the 370 as the younger brother. (The 370's aren't "old enough" to be the 350's kid)

Went into the shop,.. and came out and my Silver 350Z had company,.. a bit of history/evolution .. all three Generations since 1990 were lined up

Interesting. I loved the one I ordered (which is above) -- Threads great,.. I don't use power tools on the drain plug,.. don't over tighten/torque. And with the synthetics I go 10,000 between changes. If you really think I should change it out for a non magnetic drain plug,.. would you mind linking me a drain plug that is preferable? I'm due to change it out as I've put 9800 miles since last change .. Thanks Theres a seller on ebay that sells plugs and washers: http://www.ebay.co.u...=STRK:MEBIDX:IT Yeah.. I searched around and found a box of 10 crush washers of proper size for 350Z for $4 on Amazon.. just takes a while to locate. The magnetic plug I got just to get.. it's cheap,.. looks nice (even though you don't see it).. and a little magnetic bit won't hurt (certainly won't make a difference in the engine..) -- But will be interesting if any metal bits are even on it. It's solidly built/molded/cut.. I don't see any reason it would be weaker, cross thread , warp or otherwise get damaged with any more likelihood than the stocker bolt. I don't over torque the bolt down anyhow.. most people (or many) people just put that oil pan bolt on as tight as they can with their hands..(ratchet) -- not knowing any better. When it doesn't need a ton of force, and more force can be damaging and can not seal properly. There is a reason it uses a crush washer.. it's not just for looks, or hassle of replacing (although many don't replace it) Thanks. I bought them on Amazon as well. Yes, I use Amazon a lot. It has everything,.. and with Prime shipping it really saves money vs. local (no tax so far). But I've seen them locally here in autopart stores. The ones I bought are particularly useful for cars like the 350Z where they are naturally a bit lower than other vehicles and you need that gradual ramp up to not damage your bumper. They are light.. absolutely! I have a set of steel ramps I had for my mustangs years ago.. and I hate lugging those things around. The ramps are not only stronger than the steel (due to design) .. but a great deal lighter. Definite good investment for anyone who is planning on doing oil changes. I'm actually due for one right now. I just ordered the Mobil 1 5w30 synthetic,.. (I found with a discount 6 Quarts (350Z takes 5).. for $36 (shipped)) -- Can't beat that , as it's $8+ locally per quart. Then I already had an extra K&N Hi-Perf filter as I was sent two by accident last time I changed. I'm changing at 10,000 Miles (or 12 months.. whichever comes sooner). The mileage has hit much sooner lol.

Yes.. it's still stupid expensive for the that flywheel. That's a "good deal" .. All those parts were had at a discount. And remember it may be dollars, but we get paid in them here as well

Well the parts are ordered.. here's my invoice of what I thought was the best setup to throw together for the most reliable and "quiet" clutch setup since it has to be done: I got a good deal on most of it.. I know it's a lot to spend, but the guy I buy everything from beats every other vendor when I give him their prices.. anyhow.. The "Heavy Duty Clutch is the JWT" OEM Dual Mass Flywheel Stainless Steel Clutch line Zspeed Heavy Duty Concentric Slave Cylinder Wilwood Heavy Duty Master Cylinder I also thought it was a good idea to replace the Stock Pilot Bushing with a Nismo Roller Bearing, since as you see I got it for just $15. The Nismo Roller Bearing has as close to a zero percent chance of failure as you can get. So why not. The good thing about the Concentric Slave Cylinders in the 07-09 Z's is the Clutch Throw Out Bearing is built into them.. so that (throw out bearing) is new as well. What do you guys think of the setup? I know it's nothing super special.. everything is aftermarket "performance" but the OEM Dual mass flywheel.. but nothing makes the car faster.. especially since I'm going with the OEM flywheel and not a lightweight flywheel. But my goal is to keep it quiet (as quiet as stock anyway) .. so I'm not expecting it to rev faster.. I am expecting a better pedal feel.. and better "grip" -- Right now .. and since I bought this car last year.. when I "got on it".. meaning I would rev it past 5-6,000 RPM and shift gears as fast as possible.. it would slip a little right after each gear change at such high RPM. That will be nice to have it grip right away again. Hopefully, given I don't drive this car like a maniac, (don't rag it) .. ,.. This clutch and other such parts will last me pretty much the life of the car (how long I am going to keep it).. Which will be 3-5 years or so likely. Take care!

I don't get it? Maybe this will help in what kind of Shop/mechanic this is.. http://www.zsolutions.net/home.html Take a look.. Even starting with the Z32.. 1990-present is 25 years on the nose. The gap between the Z32 production and 2003 350Z introduction still had loads of Z32's being bought and customized. Z32's are still a huge enthusiast community and many prefer them over the 350's and 370's. I'm not trying to be sarcastic,.. I genuinely don't understand the "other 13 years"