Chromatic

That's the great part.. I know the prev. owner quite well, and Have the history of this car from Purchase new from prev. owner. He also handed me all the Service records from purchased new,.. Everything from Oil change to Brake jobs, (minor or major) was done At his Nissan Dealership. This guy did zero work on this car himself, and was WAY over protective with the service,.. oil changed every 2-3k at nissan with Synthetic Blend,.. All service intervals done at Nissan,.. And I've had this car apart completely to inspect for wear and tear and signs when cars are driven hard -- And this car was driven very lightly. Everything is insanely tight ,.. The tires on the car when I got it showed zero signs of hard cornering, "burnouts",.. hard launches,.. etc. The guy is 44 years old,.. and basically got the car to have something for "looks" to take his business clients around. He is an Executive account manger for the Largest Airport in the world. The carfax history lines up with everything I was given,.. and I spoke with him for 5-6 hours driving him back to his Work the day I bought it,.. While all of that is great,.. it doesn't absolutely guarantee the car was driven lightly.. But it's as good as you get. Further, the guy ,.. when I mentioned an issue with the Tire feathering.. said right away,.. Ok, I listed the car as pristine/perfect , so we can type something out that says I will pay for Anything Mechanically wrong with the Vehicle period. We did so, and had it notorized with our signatures, and 2 Witness Signatures. How often do you get someone willing to do that with a Private party used car sell? So, I firmly believe the Car with 26k miles is mechanically in as good of shape as you can get period. I'm changing it over to full synthetic this week myself.. If I felt the engine was ran particularly hard I would be a little more hesitant in putting a smaller particle lubricant in due to seals, et al.. But I think I got a steal with this car to be honest. A 2008 350Z with 26k for 17k.. That's hard to beat with all it's history documented. Anyways.. enough about the validity of the car lol. Yes there are variances with Dyno's.. But it's as good as you are going to get in determining power. You used a Dyno that measured power at your Crank? How did you get your Flywheel power over power at the wheels? As we all know the power at the wheels is really what Car manufacturers should use in their power ratings, as Crank power is not the real world power due to the unavoidable losses through the drivetrain, and even traction/tires, etc. I do *not* know the list of Modifications of your DE motor so I can't say whether or not I'd say it'd definitely have 14hp more than it's stock rated 287hp, but I'd certainly hope you were pulling over 300hp at the Flywheel given you started at 287hp. Now if your car (as I mentioned the variances with engine to engine) pulled 276hp (11hp lower than it's stock rating) at the Fly on your dyno,.. Then that proves the point a bit about the variances from engine to engine (and mileage to mileage),.. etc. Did you ever wonder why you got 11hp less hp than it was rated at , at the fly? How many miles does your 2003 have? Sadly, HP does go down with wear and tear - I do expect about the HP you are getting at the Fly, at the wheels when I get my tune.. I'll report it with images of the Tune's Dyno sessions to see how close we get. And perhaps 325-330ish at the Fly. I do wish I had done a Base dyno to see what this engine was running with 26k miles without any perf. addons,.. but we aren't racing in F1

Heh,.. Yes I realize the car it was performed on -- I had a Silvia from 2005-2007,.. The point of linking that was to give a good idea to people who run across the thread what these things do.. That's all. And, eliminating what I would refer to as slight "leaks" of air from going up instead of directly forward to the radiator is going to increase efficiency. As I said before, would it be measurable.. maybe not,.. But the price point of this stuff is dirt cheap when considering anything for the Zed that it's worth a try. I would fabricate my own (and possibly still might) If I felt up to the job,.. but, since they are so inexpensive (if you price it out, and esp. if you buy a used one).. that it's one of those things better bought than made (unless you just really enjoy metal work, etc.) As for them not doing anything on the Zed's.. and *less* on my HR.. we can just agree to disagree. Maybe I'll do a full on test with the HR and the Panels + without and Temp differences. Yes, I know it's meant solely for Coolant temps.. they are made to keep air diverted more efficiently to the Radiator - They are not made for diverting air to intakes.. This doesn't mean it won't help more air to some small degree go to the two intakes on the HR via the holes Vertically the Intakes get their air from (via the lower bumper and out the front grill). -- Again I will need to go look at my engine bay again and take a pic and sketch it a bit to show "why" this is so -- OR, I'm totally WAY off base with air flow to my Intakes. But I don't think I am as I wouldn't have been considering this idea of the extra tubing I would fabricate to direct air "completely" from the lower bumper alone. Yes, I realize the hood acts as the 'seal' for the air to get pulled to the intake location.. But it's not as efficient as it could be. If I'm wrong with what I have pictured in my mind,.. I will be the first to say so! lol. And, guys,.. I'm not expecting any massive results with the purpose these are built for (temps to engine/radiator).. or even with my fabrication idea I plan on doing. But, if I can relatively cheaply make something a few percent more efficient .. I will do so. Air temp monitors are quite easy -- I have a few already.. CFM monitors I'll look into to see if they are relatively cheap -- if so, I can do real world tests on what I'm talking about to show (or debunk) any advantage to what I am going to do.

That's fairly accurate -- Except I don't agree with that they are bling unless you are running at the track.. Even just normal driving in the heat around here it will help to some small degree.. But.. Just the normal 2nd, 3rd gear punches REALLY increase temps.. And some testing has shown this over several of these (on a 240sx mind you) -- But it seems pretty fair and conservative with results. Showing Idle doing nothing (as expected) -- And pushing the car a bit in 2nd and 3rd gear (for this test) made 10+ degree differences.. which to me, is substantial. For me it's 50% air flow to filter maximization and 50% helping the cooling in average of 40c daytime temps. Here's a good explanation of what they do, and the test I'm referring to: http://www.importtun...version_panels/ Worth a read imo. Now what percentage of air "more" is being directed and not lost to the Radiator is a figure I don't think we know.. I assume you just did a wild guess with that 10-15% figure -- But all that matters is more = more.. And efficiency is better. With this car a bunch of small efficiency mods eventually add up to something. Just like the bolt ons for the car do. They are 5-10hp usually per $500-$1500 bolt on,.. but you do 3 of them it becomes a difference maker. I don't know if it's because the Second Gen's are so damn efficient in their design, or what.. but it's HARD to add NA power to this car staying out of the internals of the engine. I've put in thousands already.. and the three "bolt ons" are Changing the single exhaust to Dual exhaust with the Invidia Gemini Cat-back with larger piping,.. -- Dropping in higher flowing filters -- and Removing the incredibly restrictive Catalytic converters,.. Each on it's own isn't that much,,.. but add the three up with a proper tune and You are looking at 15 horsepower -- Without tune maybe 0-5hp. But that's getting off subject. Fixed that for you Don't forget the slam panel isn't really covering anything, there is a bit of a hole in the middle where the catch is, thats it, thats all thats being covered. Yes my 10-15% was a guess, it's probably less, more like 5%. Making power NA on the 350Z is not specifically hard for the HR (3rd Gen actually) it's hard for all of them. The only extra modification that I can do to my DE that you can't is a plenum spacer, but the HR, to the best of my knowledge, doesn't suffer from starvation to any cylinders. Agreed, looks great. What I don't like about the ones designed like that (That go OVER the intake from the lower bumper, just where it feeds up to go into the intake hole) is it's making the cooler airflow less efficient for the intake itself. Now you have a Cone filter in the engine bay so it's going to pull hot air in by default anyways, so no big difference,.. but for the more efficient redesign on the Gen 2 Z33's covering those "holes" that the cooler air comes in the front from the outside air, and goes up through the holes, then into the airbox inlet holes would be a step backwards (for my intentions). On the flip,.. the purpose of that design on the older 350's is to maximize the air completely to the radiator.. So your plate would keep your radiator cooler than the one on my car like this: I can't even remember what the 1st gen 350 single intake factory looks like.. but it must not pull from that area like the 2nd gen 350's.. or at least not very much. If you look again at my picture you will see that slam panel doesn't affect airflow near the intake, it follows the bumpers line so as not to block off air, the hole is not covered, even a little bit. Also if you look at my picture again, you will also see that air is pulled from the exact same place in DE and HR Zeds, HR just have an additional hole on the drivers side, pax side to you. Ok Air Diversion panel = Slam Panel? When I think of "slam" I think of people lowering cars.. but I'm new to the whole air div. panels to begin with.. So if that's the world's term for them,.. so be it As for the hole being covered or not.. I'm going to need to go look at my setup again, and if it's the way I think it is I'll take a pic, and sketch it with Paint or something to show what I'm referring to. But, first, I'm not referring to the hole going horizontal into the engine.. it's obviously not obscured. If you say it's not covered, then it's not. Maybe I'm just mistaken on the way the air flows up from the lower bumper,.. More on this in a few hours when I go take a quick look ** Also, the angle of the pics we've shown.. Don't show the gap between the bumper and air intake slots/holes -- Which is where some of this debate is coming from. I see the DE panel still follows the line/lip of the material already there and doesn't extend backwards further than this.. So you are right you are getting the same air to your intake "hole/slot" with or without that panel there.

Delete this please.. this post wasn't worth potentially upsetting someone unintentionally Thanks

Agreed, looks great. What I don't like about the ones designed like that (That go OVER the intake from the lower bumper, just where it feeds up to go into the intake hole) is it's making the cooler airflow less efficient for the intake itself. Now you have a Cone filter in the engine bay so it's going to pull hot air in by default anyways, so no big difference,.. but for the more efficient redesign on the Gen 2 Z33's covering those "holes" that the cooler air comes in the front from the outside air, and goes up through the holes, then into the airbox inlet holes would be a step backwards (for my intentions). On the flip,.. the purpose of that design on the older 350's is to maximize the air completely to the radiator.. So your plate would keep your radiator cooler than the one on my car like this: I can't even remember what the 1st gen 350 single intake factory looks like.. but it must not pull from that area like the 2nd gen 350's.. or at least not very much.

That's fairly accurate -- Except I don't agree with that they are bling unless you are running at the track.. Even just normal driving in the heat around here it will help to some small degree.. But.. Just the normal 2nd, 3rd gear punches REALLY increase temps.. And some testing has shown this over several of these (on a 240sx mind you) -- But it seems pretty fair and conservative with results. Showing Idle doing nothing (as expected) -- And pushing the car a bit in 2nd and 3rd gear (for this test) made 10+ degree differences.. which to me, is substantial. For me it's 50% air flow to filter maximization and 50% helping the cooling in average of 40c daytime temps. Here's a good explanation of what they do, and the test I'm referring to: http://www.importtuner.com/tech/impp_0908_diversion_panels/ Worth a read imo. Now what percentage of air "more" is being directed and not lost to the Radiator is a figure I don't think we know.. I assume you just did a wild guess with that 10-15% figure -- But all that matters is more = more.. And efficiency is better. With this car a bunch of small efficiency mods eventually add up to something. Just like the bolt ons for the car do. They are 5-10hp usually per $500-$1500 bolt on,.. but you do 3 of them it becomes a difference maker. I don't know if it's because the Second Gen's are so damn efficient in their design, or what.. but it's HARD to add NA power to this car staying out of the internals of the engine. I've put in thousands already.. and the three "bolt ons" are Changing the single exhaust to Dual exhaust with the Invidia Gemini Cat-back with larger piping,.. -- Dropping in higher flowing filters -- and Removing the incredibly restrictive Catalytic converters,.. Each on it's own isn't that much,,.. but add the three up with a proper tune and You are looking at 30+ horsepower -- Without tune maybe 15-20hp. But that's getting off subject.

It has to.. There's no question. You block the escaping air from where the plate sits, via the plate and the air will go the area of least resistance -- Which is the remaining exit which happens to be your Air intake slot. Anyhow -- After doing the plate,.. I've been thinking of fabricating out of some sort of Plastic, Silicone, or other material some Sealed "pipe/tubing" to help direct airflow to the Intake Boxes -- (Just to make 100% of the Air flow directly to the Intakes.. ) I did a 1 minute mock-up in MSPaint of what I'm talking about (Pictures are much easier to understand). Make sense? -- This tubing would end just past the opening you see there.. it wouldn't go way down into the front bumper or anything.. And I would seal it to the Airboxes with black epoxy or similar. Decent idea? -- I know it won't make any huge difference, but the airflow would just be benefited by this plate I mentioned, and then fabricating some rectangular piping/tubing and sealing it so all the air goes to the intakes that gets pushed up through those two holes. Anyone have any ideas of some material that would be easy to work with for something like this? Seems like a $5-$10 cost fab job to me.. Just not sure exactly where or what material to get to make it happen.. just started hashing this out recently.. -- I'd just do it in something black,.. if the material wasn't already black, I'd paint it which gives me the options to "Dress" it however I wanted.. Carbon fiber (skin), Black, Silver, Red, Blue, whatever.. But it's for functionality not so much "looks" at all.

I've been sketching out some ideas to improve the airflow of my Dual intake HR '08 from the Airboxes to the bumper.. And ran across this which is mostly to keep engine temps a few degree's lower (these do work.. been independently tested, so it's not just "style".. though many get them just for looks..).. Where I live from Late March till Late October it's 32c to 44c (32c is a cooler day and 44c would be the extreme).. So it's quite hot for most of the year here. So every degree helps. This would also give me something to add some L shaped fabricated tubing mounts to (to direct the air from the lower bumper directly into the two slots on the 07/08 350's air box entrance tubes/air boxes). Anyhow.. Here's what I'm referring to: http://www.ebay.com/itm/2003-2004-2005-2006-2007-2008-350Z-Air-Diversion-Panel-CARBON-FIBER-/321214575993?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&fits=Model%3A350Z&hash=item4ac9e17579&vxp=mtr On a second Gen 350: That's how it would be on my vehicle.. (Except I use the factory air boxes with drop in perf. filters due to the better performance they give over the other IN engine bay systems). Just curious your thoughts on these? Anyone have them on a second Gen 350 (basically if you have Two intakes/airboxes..HR) ? Carbon fiber is cool looking, but I'd be perfectly fine with a plain one like the above.. for half the price. Seems to me like they would also help air flow to both the Airboxes on the second Generations as right now the air coming in from the bumper obviously flows up where this panel goes .. thus adding said panel would create slightly more airflow to the two side holes that each air intake box pulls from. I know they aren't advertised or meant for that,... But it must help due to general airflow dynamics. (measurable? probably not.. At 50mph+ probably so). But for lowering temps 5-6 degree's alone is enough to warrant $65 for one, imo. Just wanted to get your opinions, thoughts, et al..

I'm hoping with my 2008 HR, That my setup breaks down something like this: Stock airboxes to the dual throttle bodies with drop in's = 2hp Catback Invidia gemini changing it from Single to Dual exhaust = 10hp Berk High Flow Cats = 12-15hp (I think these are going to open this particular setup, up, a great deal). Tune = x? So.. 306hp stock at the Fly.. I wouldn't be surprised to see 330hp + .. And around 290 at the Wheels. And a 0-60 (Sub 5 second.. just barely.. but 4.9xx or so).. Quarter Staying in 13's.. maybe with A LOT of practice and traction on a good run with .5 reaction or so.. hitting 13.3/13.4 ..doesn't seem out of the realm of possibility. At this point I'm scratching my head at what else to add that's worth the money for more bolt on horsepower... while my Berks are still on the Fedex truck lol. Next comes the Tune -- and the Tune alone is worth 7-8hp by itself with the AF Ratios, etc.. We'll see. Every motor is just a little different. While they post say 306bhp for this car stock.. Some of them will invariably run 312bhp stock.. others 301bhp and so on.. At the mileage I'm at.. 27k,.. The engine is just now really getting broken in well.. From what I've noticed new cars get a touch faster after 20-40k miles (then slower at 100k+ lol).. Thing is.. I don't rag this car.. and wouldn't bring it to the Drag strip.. Unless I had a new clutch, flywheel, slave cylinder, etc I was about to put in.. Then, I'd feel comfortable making a few passes.. I can tell the super soft tires I put on the car (which I love).. are going to get me 10-12k miles if I'm lucky.. That's ok, If I can continue to get them off Tirerack for half price at $650 I'm ok with that. I've wondered about those air plates -- http://www.tunerspor...z-03_p4835.html If they work.. seems like a good investment and not too bad on price to help your cooling and performance in the heat and when you may be running the car a little harder. Any thoughts on those Diversion plates? (anyone?)

Nice gain, seems a touch low considering Spacer + Air upgrade + Decats + and Exhaust.. I would give it something like Spacer = 10hp 06 Air box = 2hp Decats = 12hp Rest of Exhaust = 10hp So 34-35hp would be more in the area. Had you not had the Spacer your figure seems dead on. But, if it dyno'd to that.. that's what it is! So puts you at or around the Stock hp of the HR motors, but likely a better power band. The DE motors ran 5.6 (or so) 0-60.. This should have put you at around the 5.1 of the HR motors (maybe better..) Quarter on DE stock was what? low 14s? I know the 07/08's run 13.6 (With a professional driver at the helm) in the Quarter stock. So I'd say you are pushing breaking the 5 second barrier on 0-60mph and are in the 13's on the Quarter.. that's a good leap. I'd be interested in a re-tune and new Dyno with your parts.. I bet you are pushing 320+ hp at the Flywheel.. Good stuff.

Open your driver door.. and look at the body.. You'll see all the info about your car.. VIN, Paintcode, Weight(s), Tire pressures, etc Looks something like this: This Tip Brought to You by.. You're welcome..

Lotus Federal Elise and the Ferrari an F430. Happy?

lol.. It's nice, when I had my mustangs the Ferrari's, Lambo's and such didn't really pay any attention... but I guess the Z looks more "supercarish" than American muscle lol.

Yeah yeah.. Let's match the difference in price with suspension and wheel/tire mods on the Z -- Hrmm.. could get interesting

Sorry if this is in the wrong "section".. But, I normally don't really get on my Z.. But.. it's HARD to resist as you add mods, esp. exhaust mods lol.. Anyhow.. Driving back today first I was approached on the road (with cops all around us no less) who literally toyed with me.. I played a little tag but knew better than to really "try" .. Sweet ride. Then a few seconds later A Lotus comes up in my Rear View.. I don't see many Lotus's on the road.. and this one was Purple, looked nice (was dirty tho.. lol) -- But you could tell it was in great shape. Well.. (On a private closed road! ) -- The Lotus came up beside me and revved then sped up in front of me.. So I said, ok what the heck.. I think it's considerably faster, but let's just see. For the next 4-5 miles on the "closed road" the lotus kept pulling up to me and asking for it.. So I dropped from 6th to 3rd or 4th and dropped it for a minute.. The Lotus was keeping up (it was trying) but I was beating it! I was like hrmm.. slowed down.. maybe it was a fluke.. Lotus get's in front of me and Takes off full throttle.. I drop it (now with a good 6+ car lengths back lag) to lower gear and I pulled up on it without TOO much hassle. We did this for another few miles off and on and for whatever reason my '08 350 with my few mods (Intake, and Catback so far) was beating it! Made me smile.. We exchanged the wave of "good sportsmanship" and I turned off where I was going. Now I know the stock 350z is 5.1 0-60 on my year and 306hp.. and mine isn't completely stock so untuned I may have gained oh.. 10-12 hp we'll say.. nothing major , esp without the Berk's and a Tune .. So are Lotus's in America slower? I did a brief look at stats a minute ago and Lotus's should run in the 4.x second range 0-60, but have a relatively low top speed considering their price. Edit: Just looked a little more at Lotus's.. and they aren't quite as expensive as I thought.. but they aren't cheap.. Run 65,000-100k+ depending on model, type, etc. -- And The horsepower of many of the models is less the the 350Z's.. but I thought the Lotus's were incredibly light so that horsepower was much more efficient thus say 240hp = something like 400hp in a 350 for example. Or was this driver that bad? Or perhaps, would a Lotus not be able to handle the mid range of the 350Z, but is more geared for the 0-60 stuff? Either way, I was as impressed seeing an immaculate Ferrari (recent model) and recent model Lotus (Red Ferrari, and Purple Lotus) within a few seconds of each other.. and both recognized my Z immediately and wanted to "play" if you will. -- I know the Z isn't a "Super car" .. and not even close to the Lotus in the "price range" new.. but it seemed to be more than enough power for the Lotus to handle (I know the Ferrari was way out of my league lol).. I can attest the speeds weren't outrageous because there were literally 3 cops around us.. And oddly enough when the Ferrari pulled up to me, and then sped up a bit.. past the Cops.. I followed (staying under or at speed limit) *in moderate traffic*... and the Cops seemed to want to watch... they actually pulled out of our lanes to let us go on by .. then casually watched.. no hint of trying to "catch us" going 10mph over or something. Just wanted to share the experience.. I'm not used to having Ferrari's and Lotus's come up and work to gain my attention Any similar (Supercar) type experiences.. not so much winning or racing, but just you know the fun , safe, tag driving within speed limits but trailing and swapping lead type stuff?

I can agree with that. -- Did you install your own Headers, and Test pipes? And,.. what were your Dyno results with the other setup?

Thanks for the reply -- But there is a definite answer to this,.. as a FEW people have done what I'm doing (which is where I got the info on what I needed to buy and install to make Cruise work).. one such part is a Cluster from any NON Base 350.. The Traction control and other such functions I don't and never will have.. You can easily black out on the back of the clusters (as they will stay lit since my car doesn't have the option).. Maybe only those people who've done the base to cruise switch know if say an 03 Cluster is identical to an 08 cluster for a MT car.. From the LOOKS of them they all look the same -- only differences are AT and MT aren't compatible for obvious reasons.. And you have a Nismo cluster (which is just a Nismo badge/lettering).. And the Traction control light, etc that I'd have to black out. They built ALL 350's (base's included) with the wiring for the cruise.. So when I put the panels on my steering wheel for the audio and cruise controls my car will have a harness just sitting there in the steering wheel waiting to be plugged in.. which is why this all works. Would be great if the ECU on the bases had cruise control and the only limiting factor was the "lights" on the cluster and pedal switches.. but I have to get the Tuner to swap my Base CAL file to another model (all other models have cruise).. and then cruise is enabled (and while I don't NEED a new cluster for cruise to work, I need it to see the Cruise (set) light(s) ) -- And that's not a big deal so much.. but the Tune maps are changed with the cruise lights as well.. So I'd like a visual indicator of which map I'm on. I've sourced out getting the mileage adjusted on a cluster and found a really good place that will do it for $35 (The only place besides Nissan who will do this costs $100-$200 ) -- And a used cluster is (if you shop around) $100.. The "ideal" would be to find one within 1000 miles of my vehicle.. then it'd be a direct swap.. but I'm not going to get the RIGHT cluster, in good condition, for a good price AND with my somewhat low miles for a 2008 of 27k. But, all the wiring is there.. Someone explained it to me in the exact terms of how the system works.. (the nissan electrical impulse system) .. but suffice it to say the wires and harness is in place.. the computer just needs to be flashed (along with pedal switches, PAc or Axxess module if I want to use my steering controls for head unit)..and of course the Cluster to see just the Cruise and (SET) lights in green. (While blacking out the Traction control and I think there is one more light on some clusters that the base wouldn't have (that is not anything "special".. but I could be wrong about how many lights extra there are). Someone tried to solder in LEDS to a base cluster and it didn't work for them.. I'm not sold the Base cluster if LEDS were wired in by a Professional electronic engineer wouldn't light up properly with Cruise control.. but no one has done it so far,.. So roughly $130 = A proper Cruise Cluster.. Just before I order a used one .. and have it sent off for mileage change,.. I need to verify all the clusters for MT 350's are identical (Nissan didn't change the design of them from year to year basically). Thanks

Nice.. I may have mine on by then.. But more likely Monday. I agree a touch of Rasp adds to the sound .. But it's a fine line. As for the stock headers being a terrible design and/or the biggest bottleneck in the system (from the start) -- I personally disagree from the Designers at Berk USA I talked to at length with Yesterday -- Headers aren't TOO bad in price .. If I thought they were going to be a great investment powerwise I would have tried to get a decent set while doing the cat removal.. But,.. my homework is just different than yours. Mine is based on the dyno's from others with and without Headers,.. people with header resiliency issues with aftermarket, and the Berk designers/techs who are amazing (they know this car inside and out, I was wowed).. who adamantly insisted the biggest breathing bottleneck in the 350's was undoubtedly the Stock Cats.. no questions about it, and the best bang for the buck bolt on if you did nothing else was to replace the stock cats with HFC's (or if you prefer Test pipes). Do you happen to have Dyno's of Base, Catback install, Testpipe install, and Header dyno's? Or at least Dyno of before headers and after headers? Are you tuned (I would imagine you definitely are.. and if so would have at least one dyno from it..) Though you may have just gotten the tune with all your exhaust in already which would be impossible to determine which component added what. Anyhow, look forward to the video.

I agree,.. this is how my filter installs will be from here on out -- But I'm dealing with an OEM Nissan filter put on by a Nissan Dealership. So I plan for the worst.. I've had some insanely tight filters from dealerships, in particular Nissan and Toyota. I didn't want to wrestle with the OEM filter,.. So got the tool that will turn it right off first time (That's the plan) Dang, I forgot to order a box of disposable latex gloves! (kidding)

I've had the tools.. they got lost in a move or two.. haven't been changing my own oil since I had my Mustangs.. So tooling up again slowly but surely. I think this tool should work well for my 350, and my friends, and families cars I inevitably do for them (Brake jobs, Turning rotors, Oil changes (now again).., Belts, hoses, Window motors, everything short of rebuilding their engines My typical regimen for my filter tightening is hand tight.. then about a 1/4 turn past this hand tight feeling. That's all a "car" engine needs typically.. A Ducatti... that's different

Should have been the first post/answer -- Well done sir. Filter is 65mm of course, 14 sided. That runs about $30 US,.. Thanks!

No offense.. how did you do in reading comprehension, and with picture books (Hides from Moderator) In all seriousness.. if you look at my OP, I asked about the Filter Wrench "tool" for removal of said Filter. Not the filter itself =) So are you talking about the nut size on the part in your hand or the outside diameter of the oil filter?If you had taken the time to look at the first link it gave the dimensions of the filter from which you could have established the size of the wrench you needed, next time just get under the car and measure it yourself That's not my hand in the pic.. It's the answer another person got who asked this very question. A picture of that with no identifying marks.. I know the filter is around 65mm or slightly over 2.5" -- Which is why I went with the universal tool so I can use it on the other 5-6 vehicles I service regularly, and to try something new. Thanks for the info! Yeah,.. that's the plan after this first change -- but the prev. owner had every oil change done at Nissan, every light bulb changed at Nissan,.. windshield wiper fluid put in at nissan.. LIterally. Nissan is notorious for overtightening their OEM filters. Yes,.. I would get it off without a "tool".. I've stabbed a flathead through a filter and twisted it off before.. but these days I plan everything I do and order/obtain it all prior so things are more time and hassle than they have to be.. And Oil changes can be a mess for you and the driveway/garage.. Or they can be pretty clean with a little knowledge, experience, and the RIGHT tools I'm putting a K&N on and Running Mobil 1 Synthetic 5w-30 -- I don't trust anyone else to work on this car -- except for the HFC's I'm getting put on Sat or Monday due to not having a lift and proper tools primarily... If I had a lift I'd do it myself no question even with my relatively pathetic slew of tools I have now. I paid a little more in ordering stuff this time to save in the the long run, be clean and efficient, and to do it right. So what all did I just buy.. I bought some Rhinoramps (16,000 pound ramps) for $40.. Got 6 Quarts (an extra quart came with the "deal" than I need) of Mobil 1 Synthetic 5w-30 for $40.. Plan on putting a new crush washer in for each oil change (which for me is no more than 3x a year usually (I don't put but 8-9k on a car usually)... and you know browsing EBAY.. well, I ran across the shiny , "magnetized" drain plugs for our 350z's.. that come with the crush washers. So instead of just buying a pack of washers (which I didn't find btw).. I bought an $8 Magnetized new drain plug in an anodized Red with a Crush washer included (asked the seller to throw in a handful of washers if he would, we'll see on that one..) Hey,.. it will be easy to find next time -- I don't really think the magnetic drain plugs are going to make my engine last longer .. but I will clean the invariable iron deposits from it each change. The universal Tool was after a bit of "what's best".. and measuring the specs listed on the 350Z filter (which is hella small for our engine) at close to 2.5" (65mm) (Most American cars are around 3" for example.. even on 4 cyl).. But it's spring loaded and will fit essentially all filters on all cars and suv's... Bought a 4.5 Gallon Drain pan... Bought a longer Funnel (my funnel(s) are short and used for other things).. And bought some wheel chocks (I've been needing those.. could have used those half a dozen times already with this car).. Think that's it. So let's sum up lol.. K&N Oil Filter (I like the R and D with K&N, trust them.. And since I'm running Synthetic I might go 4-5k instead of 3k) : 6 Quarts of Mobil 1 5w-30 Synthetic (After reading lab reports, this seemed the best oil for my climate for the money as I'm switching to Synthetic at 27k miles) Magnetized Drain plug (Mainly because I needed a new Crush washer (or I WANTED one.. let me rephrase ) Universal Filter Removal Tool (This seemed to be the best for the money to NOT be limited to just the 350Z) 8 Ton (16,000lb) Rhino Ramps (For two reasons.. They are light (7lbs a piece).. and are over 4 times the capacity of our cars (safer to be under) -- Oh and they are faster/easier than jacks/jackstands 4.5Gal Drain Pan (Cause I don't have one anymore..) The "perfect" funnel to add the oil (was $1 ) Lastly.. Set of Wheel Chocks (Rhino Chocks) -- For safety,.. been needing these as aforementioned: Is this more than an Oil change.. Hell yes! -- But believe it or not.. not by much here. A full synthetic Oil change here at a Full Serve place is $100+ But,.. In the future I can run Synthetics with a K&N filter for about $45 in cost .. (A regular Dino Oil change here is $60 Full Serve) *To pay $100+ for an oil change even for Synthetics is nuts imo*.. And, with my last car.. I would have just taken it to a shop that was slow.. (you can get Dino Oil done if you bring it to a shop you have to wait an hour+ for ..For about $40 (What a deal!)-- and Synthetic for about $80 in a shop you have to wait 1-2hours for.. (It's $110-$120 in the 10-15min places). With this car.. it's my baby,.. I watch the techs do the quick oil changes.. and they don't even wait for the oil to drain back down before checking the oil level.. and in the shops you don't get to see what is going on (waiting for 1-2hours) they ALWAYS overfill for similar reasons.. And Overfill , while not as bad as dramatically underfilled.. is still hard on the motor/pump, etc. We can turn this into an Oil change thread.. Who runs Full Synthetics? Who runs Synth Blends? Who runs Dino? (I think they are ALL fine.. ) And how long do you wait before changing your oil (do you do it yourself? or not?) -- What filter do you prefer? Any reason? Not looking to turn this into a (X brand oil is better than Y oil.. go read the extensive reports on all the major brands, no point in hashing it here. )

No offense.. how did you do in reading comprehension, and with picture books (Hides from Moderator) In all seriousness.. if you look at my OP, I asked about the Filter Wrench "tool" for removal of said Filter. Not the filter itself =)

Thanks, I shopped around.. and went with this: The same kit is between $80-$200 US.. So I passed http://www.amazon.com/Lisle-63600-Oil-Filter-Tool/dp/B0002SR4Q8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1392966065&sr=8-1&keywords=lisle+filter+wrench The Lisle has a minimum range that is just under 65mm.. So should be absolutely perfect for the Z (and other cars I work on).. man the Z has a tiny oil filter.. what were they thinking putting such a small filter on a 3.5L engine? Oh I still want to know the answer to my original question though lol

Wow.. You'd think this would be everywhere.. but I've been looking for an hour and every thread says "use an oil filter socket like this!" (shows random picture).. I'm doing my own oil changes and I'd like to use the Socket type end cap pieces that you put on the end of the oil filter, and then put a ratchet in and loosen easily.. but for the life of my I can't find what size it is to actually buy it. Some one help me out,.. If you have no idea what I'm talking about .. it looks something like this: Thank ya!