Chromatic

Agreed -- I had a list of about 6-8 exhausts and I think I would have been happy with any of them. To name a few.. Nismo S Tune, Bassani, Invidia Gemini, Fujitsubo Legalis-R.. etc. But half of those or the majority were not dual exhausts.. they were just like the factory exhaust muffler with single pipe to a Y-pipe. So bang for buck horsepower wise.. I think this Inivida true dual exhaust may give me another 1-2hp that the others may not have even on a NA car like mine. I don't expect any HP gains that can be noticed.. But I do know that realistically this exhaust should give about 4hp at the rear wheels.. (Not the 22hp claims Invidia makes lol). You will get that 22hp gain after you have Forced Induction (twin turbos) , Proper intakes/throttle body, Headers, HFC's or Test pipes, etc.. THEN the exhaust get's maximized to it's full potential. My ULTIMATE goal for this car is Forced Induction .. Twin Turbos (done right) -- But, done right is ALLLMOST the price of the car itself.. I paid 17.5k for this with 26k miles (41842 kilometers).. and from what I read is you can do a Turbo system the CHEAP and wrong way for a few thousand.. (and you ARE going to have problems) -- or you can do it the right way for minimum 10k,.. and most likely 12-15k. So that essentially means it's never gonna happen lol. Great news ~ I'm sure you'll love it. Just to add I've never noticed any so called cabin drone with my Gemini. First .. man you guys are SO MUCH DIFFERENT than the people on the US forums! That's all I will say,.. You guys (and ladies) Rock! I'm sure I will love it too!.. I'm excited -- And, great to hear there is no drone with it. With my new stereo install.. even when I have it on moderate volume I cannot hear my engine at all.. and while I can shift fine.. I'm so ingrained to shift by engine noise it feels so weird. Hopefully this exhaust will give me a little noise in the cabin to hear the engine. Let's say it's NOT loud enough for my needs.. (hey it happens) and I want to basically JUST increase the dB (loudness) but not alter the tone/pitch of the exhaust. What would you add to the car down the road when you had the cash? Test pipes? (If so what kind).. HFC's? (If so what kind?) -- Headers (If so what kind?) -- Those three are about all I know that would amplify the noise.. but I do know if you buy cheap or the wrong kind of either of these you will dramatically alter your exhaust sound.. for the worse I can see me wanting more performance down the road (I'm tapped on cash right now).. and going with another bolt on on the exhaust be it Test Pipes, or HFC's (They are cheaper than headers I believe).. Also.. while I'm at it -- How many mods do you think are "ok" to do before you really should get the car tuned professionally to take advantage of the mods? All I have on this car's HR motor is/are Dual K&N filters and Gemini Exhaust.. A tune I know would give me a few more horsepower even with these two mods.. but it's not enough HP to justify the price of a tune -- So just when does that point come in your opinion? I'm not a fan of blowing $500 on a tune for an extra 7hp.. And when I do, eventually, get to the point of needing a tune to take advantage of my bolt-ons.. I will have done the final step to turn this Base model fully into the Enthusiast level. (as I've added the Homelink rearview mirror, have integrated Bluetooth on voice commands, rear view camera (that might not be a factory option),.. have power seats, etc etc.. even bought the $70 Touring Mat that goes in the Hatch with the Z logo (Base models don't have this) -- but the final step is to buy the couple switches that go under the pedals, steering wheel controls,.. wire up the already existing connector behind the headunit into a PAC or similar connector so controls all work.. THEN, to get the Cruise control (that is built into ALL models of the 350Z but just not activated on the base models) I would during a tune, have the guy flash the ECU up to an enthusiast, touring or similar model.. which would make the Cruise button work. So that makes a "tune" worth more to me since it basically adds cruise (after you spend oh.. $200-$250 on the parts to make it work like factory, switches on pedals to disengage it,.. steering wheel, etc..).

For those who don't want to read this long post -- See bottom for your Too Long Didn't Read TL;DR Ahem... Jayden Jaymes... True.. Mine has the miles of an 18 year old hottie.. -- But the years of a middle aged man.. being a 2008 -- So I dunno. Good lord yes.. BUT! No one surpasses my beloved Kate Beckinsale... Ughh.. Just be nice to talk to my car and say .. Hey Jessica (yes I named it..) -- hey Jess,.. how tight are your Exhaust bolts? -- So many people have done it themselves that didn't know how.. and it worked (I hardly think they broke bolts or used special tools like a breaker bar .. or torch, etc) -- So it's really luck of the draw. I wonder if I can get something ridiculously good at unseizing rusted/old bolts.. some spray that will loosen them up.. maybe spray it on the night before and let it sit for 12 hours.. Surely something out there that will work. But, in my mind I intuitively think the exhaust bolts are going to require some serious elbow grease.. (Manpower ) -- And while I'm strong.. the problem with this is I have no leverage under the car on jackstands as you mentioned.. and I've done this before.. where I put SO much force on a siezed bolt it breaks in the middle of the bolt.. one time it even broke at the nut head itself (the Nut was bonded to the bolt (by nature, not a weld) ) -- -- At that time my Grandfather was still alive, and that man is where I got my analytical mechanically minded brain.. but only 10 times better. He chuckles at me.. and walks over takes a 1 second look and says nothing.. takes the piece of equipment I was working on with the broken bolt inside it.. grabs his welder and proceeds to FIRST TRY weld that nut back on the broken bolt.. then grabs a wrench and breaks it free like he wasn't even straining. I'm just like.. :scare:I have access to all his tools (they are about a 30min drive away in his "shop" he spent 95% of his time in).. but I have never welded anything in my life. I reallly should have gotten him to teach me how to (I'm sure I could figure it out via youtube and practice..).. Maybe I should take the car over there and do it in the backyard (The back Garden for you guys I think).. his shop is backthere.. but there is no room in the workshop to pull a car in. So I'd be in the grass. Safe to put a car on jackstands in the grass? He has much better jacks than I do..[/size]Only thing is .. while he has every tool imaginable .. He kept that shop where HE and ONLY HE knew where things were... So trying to find a Xmm socket might take me an hour lol. My garage on the otherhand is tiny.. and my next house is going to have some space for some real tools,.. and I'm going to put out the money for a good compressor and grab his impact guns (that are now mine).. It's really not that much money even if you buy new.. Compared to us putting thousands into our cars, ya know? Only thing I really wish I had that I don't see happening is a lift. I've actually priced them out.. And they aren't nearly as expensive as you'd think. It's just about having space and a ceiling height tall enough for one of the models made to fit residential garages or commerical application -- like this one: http://www.gregsmith...CFUFo7AodH1IADA[/size] It needs a Ceiling of 9ft 3" (Or 2.81 meters) -- Which isn't far off from most garage heights in the US (US Garages average 8.5 feet, (2.5 Meters) in height).. $1500 for lift.. another $1500 or so for compressor, hoses, and impact wrenches/sockets -- Imagine the possibilities! I'd be putting my car on the lift just to play with it lol.. Would that not be a dream? I know most people would be like having your own lift and impact tools is a "dream" to you? Sounds like WORK to me! lol.. Anyhow,.. back to the exhaust. I guess I'll call a couple mechanics, shops, around here .. as my exhaust arrives Wednesday.. and if they can give me a $100 or so install price I'll just do that,. if it's what I expect ($150-$200+).. then I need any suggestions on ways to get around the seized/rusted nuts/bolts. IE: Penetrating lubricant,.. tools, etc. I can probably go scavange the sockets and such I need from my Grandfathers shop.. and try to only buy what neither of us have.. (IE: two more jack stands.. maybe a set of 4 TALLER ones.. to give me more room.. Any recommended heights for jack stands?) As I said he has impact tools.. so if it's possible to get a gun up to those bolts on a car with jackstands -- I COULD use it,.. TL;DR -- Kate Beckinsale is the hottest woman alive,.. and do you have any good ideas to help get rusted bolts to break free? Be it chemicals, sprays, tools, etc.. while a car is on jackstands?

Well, just purchased the Invidia Gemini -- Based on reviews and what everyone says it should be great!

Hrmm.. doesn't sound good. Shops around here charge easily double rate of what anyone else says "installation" should be. So the standard is $100 I hear.. so it would be at least $200 install. puts me in a tough spot, with seized bolts..

Well since it's decided Invidia Gemini to go on a 2008 350Z, in place of my Stock exhaust. Now you guys could help me with tips on installation (I'll be doing this solo with jack stands). Some things I've heard. 1) You can VERY easily break a bolt in half removing the stock exhaust.. if you do so you'll need a torch to continue. (This very exaggerated? ) 2) This on a difficulty scale (removal and installation of aftermarket exhaust on a 350) is a 2 or 3 on a scale of 1-10 (This accurate?) 3) You NEED a friend to get this done. Well, I'm doing this by myself,.. so any tips on things to help while doing it solo? My tools are more than your average joe.. which is none to a few dozen sockets -- I have a standard and metric socket set.. torches, pliers, vice grips, channel locks, a million different screw drivers, and on the list goes.. But, I don't have any deep well sockets other than your standard spark plug socket -- So can you guys list out the exact sockets, extensions, and any other tools/products I'll need to get this done so I don't get stuck in the middle of this needing a part? Also,.. any tips/advice you may have for removal of a likely somewhat rusted stock exhaust,.. and then obvious tips on what you learned installing the Invidia Gemini system. -- This does turn the old exhaust into a true dual via an X pipe.. so it's not 100% direct replacement as far as how pipes are going to be (at least one more pipe will be where there is not one now.). So whatever you have lay it on me. Only thing I've heard right now with this Gemini is most shops put it UNDER (like towards the ground) the rear sway bar (IIRC).. which leaves unfavorable ground clearance.. and the advice was to simple rotate the piece before you bolt it in. Other than that I'm flying blind. -- Not scared in the least to do this.. It's exhaust for crying out loud.. Just don't know what to expect when I'm staring up at the old exhaust with a few inches (10cm-20cm) between me and the area I have to work with.. IE: Getting to the bolts.. then getting enough force to break the old ones free.. Then once free how to get it out while my 6ft , 200lb body is under it lol.. Thanks!

Is your avatar you? If so.. wow! Ha ha, we wish, unfortunately not I see. I really, really don't like things that don't bolt or are welded. But Tips, I suppose that's fairly industry standard for aftermarket exhaust -- As long as the rest of the exhaust bolts together that's fine. (I'm just one of those "overkill" on how I design things.... ie: For every piece of wire I connected in my ridiculous installation I did on my 350 several weeks ago,.. I soldered every single connection whether it was 22gauge factory wire behind the headunit.. or the majority of the wire,.. 14 gauge aftermarket wiring. Of course I used a torch on the 4 Gauge power and Ground wires for the amp. My bumper is stock for a HR 2008.. Good to know though, thanks!

Is your avatar you? If so.. wow!

Yes it is.. to be 100% honest.. I got him down to $805.. $799 just sounds better to me -- But, here in the US, the best Online deals you'll find regularly for the Invidia Gemini new are around $940-950 -- So either way you slice it I'm getting a great deal. His original "sale price" for forum members was $850.. I just got him down another $45 through messages back and forth. I'm not pushing anymore than $805.. the guy has to make a living. Thanks for the vote of confidence. I see your question/statement on "Dual" was answered -- but yes, the 350Z stock exhaust comes from dual headers (6 cylinder,.. 2 headers with 3 pipes on each side of engine) -- That goes into Cats.. eventually to a Y-pipe (called that because it takes the two pipes from header/cats and merges them into one pipe.) This single pipe then runs to the exhaust muffler which then has two outlets (the tips) that makes it exhaust from both tips and look "dual" on the car. When you go to a "true dual" system.. it eliminates this merging from two pipes to one pipe.. and runs a separate pipe from each header/cat to the muffler (and through resonator(s)). So your resistance (backpressure) is reduced with usually larger diameter piping and of course two paths two travel down for better breathing. This type of exhaust will usually net 4-9 horsepower (and similar torque numbers) -- often it's in higher sections of your power band/rpm -- But I've gotten individual Dyno charts from other people with this exhaust and it's one of the better exhausts in terms of actually giving a little HP and Torque even on mostly stock vehicles. The good thing about going true dual,.. is that the more modifications you do to the breathing (intake, manifold, headers, test pipes (or High flow cats), and so on .. make the Dual exhaust give more horsepower. The breathing modifications really shine when someone puts forced induction on .. Which I'd love, but to do it right is 8k-15k .. I bought the car for 17.5k -- so.. I certainly won't be doing that anytime soon. Great answer! Exactly.. I'm not flaming mad here.. I get it,.. An exhaust is bulky heavy.. and a pain for someone who isn't set up to pack and ship something that large. So if a local buyer comes along.. most people who don't have any "loyalty" to a first contact/buyer.. will take the easier way. It's no big deal Thanks.. I've yet to hear a bad thing about this system from A LOT of reading.. so it has to be good.. very unlikely to dissapoint. That's another reason I'm going with it because the quality just looks amazing, especially the welds and of course that polished finish of the WHOLE system you can't help but admire when it's new. As for tips -- well I'm not SURE.. but I think they are welded on the muffler (maybe not).. but yes.. if you absolutely wanted to change the tips.. to anything.. any exhaust shop can do it in under 30 minutes.. Or if you happen to have a torch and a little skill you can do it free at home. That said.. I am going with the Titanium tips because the "blue" has grown on me.. and because if you really want to go back to a "stock" polished (non blue) look.. you can polish that blue off in 20minutes or less. So you really get both tips in a manner of speaking if you go Titanium Anodized.

Yeah, I had thought of the tips and ability to polish them back to essentially the Stainless looks like -- So getting the Titanium "blue" anodized tips really gives you both tip colors. As for the Slash tips -- Well,.. If you look at the Rolled tips I have pictured, they are at an angle.. not like stock which are much more "round" with no slant in them. I *do* like the rolled, thicker lip, exhaust tip personally.. I think it looks nicer/higher quality.. with the bit of slant it has I think it will look great. They of course have the non rolled tip that is slanted, but that thinner look , doesn't look BAD, but it looks cheaper in my opinion. And that's all it is.. is an opinion! Looks like I'll be ordering that Invidia Gemini -- However given it is Friday,.. It won't ship till Monday, so I can make my final decision Sat or Sunday to have it shipped out Monday. Although I don't see anything changing my mind except a Nismo S Tune magically popping up used for $500-$600. (Begin Rant About People Selling their Nismo S Exhausts out from Under me!) I still am a little annoyed that I found TWO people selling the Nismo S Tune's used this week and I was the first person to contact them, and offered their asking price (didn't ask for any lower price) -- and they BOTH sold them out from under me to another person. Arghh.. One was a guy.. who said "I checked on shipping and it was like $80.. so I thought that was too much so sold it to someone else".. (Sorry for my language, but bullshit!) -- I'm willing to bet he never lugged an exhaust to ship it (as he claimed they didn't have a box long enough lol).. and was just too lazy to bother shipping it and sold it to someone local. The other one was a "Facebook" Girl who didn't have English as her native tongue.. and was a "Latino Ricer Wannabe" if that makes sense..and said she got a better offer (even though I said I'd pay above whatever she was offered).. -- I think she was leary of my "facebook" because I don't "do" facebook except to search for stuff like this, so my account is not my life story, what I just ate for breakfast, and how bad traffic is.. It's just an account to join groups like the one that sells 350/G35 parts and to sign in to services that require a facebook login. I guess I can understand that.. but at least tell me instead of leaving me hanging and not acting faster on the OTHER Nismo, meanwhile losing it. Oh well.. perhaps that is some sort of "sign" that the Nismo would have been too quiet for me or something lol.. And the Invidia Gemini will be just what I wanted. (End Rant) One thing I have thought about -- Is that I can't hear the exhaust on this 2008 350Z very well , especially with a little music going.. so I have to look at the RPM gauge sometimes to check on shifting (and I've been driving a stick for 16 years).. With the new exhaust now I will be able to HEAR the engine, and shifting will be like I've always done.. by ear! -- So this exhaust has a very practical use for me, believe it or not. Not to mention the , at minimum, 40 horsepower I'm going to get from it! (JK,.. I expect to fell ZERO difference in power.. and on a Dyno I'd expect 2-3hp on a good day.) But, hey maybe the HR motor I have will like a true dual exhaust and actually get more than 2-3 hp .. shrug.

Thanks.. I was leaning as I said to the "stock" stainless tips.. but the more I look at them.. I'm now pushed to the Anodized Titanium tips

Yeah my heart says Invidia.. The used one has 16k miles per the owner.

Just want your opinion(s) as I'm about to buy the Catback exhaust for my 08 350z (as in tonight/tomorrow). It's narrowed down to these two options (As Nismo S Tune is stupid expensive and frankly even new every place that has it listed doesn't have it in stock.) So.. Choice 1) Brand new from factory: Invidia Gemini True Dual with Rolled Titanium Tips. Or if I want, the Stainless Steel Tips Which look pretty much like Stock: ** Which tips do you prefer on this exhaust? I was leaning Stainless steel.. but now I think I want the Anodized blue Titanium tips.. they are growing on me. Choice 2) Very Used Bassani Exhaust (not dual like the Invidia). ^^ Is the actual used exhaust. I've been talking a dealer down over the past few days.. and can get the Invidia Gemini shipped for $799, new. The Used Bassani exhaust the guy wants $600 + shipping. I've yet to read a bad review on the Invidia Gemini.. so it seems like a "Safe" choice,.. plus being brand new doesn't hurt (Ie: will have no rust, will have all bolts/gaskets, etc..) -- And should bolt right on without issue. So I'm obviously heavily leaning to the New exhaust instead of buying the Rusty used one. But, just wanted to check with you guys for your opinions.. Both are "relatively" quiet exhausts . Thanks

you can buy glossifier for plasti dip http://www.ebay.co.u...=item233151b9e6 you can buy glossifier for plasti dip http://www.ebay.co.u...=item233151b9e6 Thanks that's handy to know Perfect.. these little things and links really help before you start a little project like this.

Yuck! -- Well if anyone wants these lights.. I'll be happy to buy them and ship them personally to you.. They are so inexpensive it's not a real risk on my part. Just let me know.

For your Tag lights and Reverse (backup) lights .. These lights are hard to find cause they have a weird part number.. but here are links for them on ebay with numbers. I just installed them to see how they looked and to help with light for my reverse/backup camera I installed. Much better than I anticipated. Took forever to get here.. But my LED Reverse Lights and Tag Lights arrived. The Reverse lights weren't the best design.. I had to dissassemble them and pull all the pins and resolder them.. as when I plugged them in they would only work when you "jiggled them".. and with a light in a moving car that's not gonna fly lol. Wasn't a big deal though, took maybe 3-4 minutes .. after the solder fix they are great! The tag lights just plugged right in no issues. I always try to take at least one or two pictures for the heck of it if anyone is interested in these lights (hey there are only a few dollars).. Pictures don't do it justice, especially on lights.. but they look much "cooler" something I didn't really expect .. but they are 10 times brighter. Here's a picture where I left the Driver side reverse light in with the normal OEM bulb. You can tell how much different the color/shades of the lights are. *The Tag LED's are in of course in this picture as well. And one final shot of them all in.. Again, they are much brighter than the old bulbs,.. I highly recommend installing these bulbs even if you aren't putting in a Reverse Camera. Just in case you are wondering.. The tag lights take 2-3 minutes (remove tag) -- use screw driver to push in clip on right side (on my car) and the whole thing comes down.. pull bulb, put new bulb in.. done. For the reverse lights, they are to the inside of the blinker bulbs. Easiest way to do this is to pop the hatch.. and look on each side.. you'll see 3 plastic pop off round "covers" of bolts. Pop those 3 off on left side, then 3 on right side. Use 10mm socket.. remove bolts,.. and remove the taillights/brakelight housings. Then you can easily reach in and pull the reverse lights out and put new ones in. I say this because I've read some people who posted their "how-to's" on this process.. and they spent like 6 hours and removed their bumpers! WOW! So I don't want anyone turning a 20-30min job into a monster job hehe.

Hey no worries lol.. I'm loving you guys. You just keep throwing 10 different ways to do the same thing. That's the kind of answers I like, gives me options to think about, and try .. one doesn't work another will. Really appreciate it!

Ok the spray aerosol Plasti-dip what I need, or something else? like this: https://www.google.com/search?q=in+situ&oq=in+situ&aqs=chrome..69i57j0l5.849j0j4&sourceid=chrome&espv=210&es_sm=93&ie=UTF-8#q=plasti+dip&safe=off&tbm=shop ? And so position the plasti dip,.. tape around it.. then carefully clear coat if it looks good?

Wet and dry paper? I haven't googled it.. but what is it?

That's what I like to hear.. tape it off.. sand, prime, paint.. clearcoat.. be CAREFUL.. and you'll be good.

I'll look at the door itself. Not sure if you've read my posts in here.. I know it can get boring.. Or seen my install thread(s).. but I've removed every panel, seat, carpet, screw/bolt console, etc from the inside of the 350z. The center/centRE console I've removed at least 6-7 times making changes to the two after market headunits I used recently. So I'm painfully aware of how to take it out and put it in lol. I think if I take my time taping things up and covering inside that I can sand and paint a 1x1" area just decently. If I can manage to get the door off somehow, that'd be perfect though!

Looks great man! But I guess cause my car is the last year model they made they changed up the button? Shrug.. Here's how my button is: If you look closely you see how you have to push UP on that lip on the "button" to make it open, it's not just a push in button. (I'd prefer the old push-in button on the older Z's..) .. Not that it'l make a huge difference.

Ok, can do the sanding, painting etc.. have any tips/how to on getting that button off ? Obviously without removing that whole gauge cluster center piece? Since the door opens up right there .. if the button comes off, it's going to come off without doing anything but opening the door. That'd be a big help

Yeah something like that is more what I was thinking. Since the paint I'm using isn't staying on after a few pushes of the button.. Would you sand the button a bit before painting? Also,.. I've heard of that plasti-dip stuff.. have a link just to clarify for me? It's just your 2008 Black interior.. they didn't make a ton of different interior designs.. If it's a black interior they are all the same on this part.

I'm looking closely at those two as well.. I just can't get a sure answer if the Invidia Gemini drones at any speed while driving.. I get some yes's.. and some no's.. lol.

Yup.. I just had the entire interior out of the car 2 weeks ago and spent 80 hours on a bunch of installation. So I'm likely not going to be pulling that waterfall piece back out anytime soon lol. To me, pulling that center dash/bezel/gauge cluster/headunit din piece is overkill for the button finish repair. There must be something that will "touch up" the black without getting it essentially refinished. I definitely agree having it refinished/dipped would look great,.. but I can't justify spending that kind of money for a few nicks on a button. The rest of that piece is pristine.. no scratches, nicks, etc anywhere else. If that bezel/gauge cluster/ compartment door/DIN area was all nicked up, I'd surely either just replace it entirely, or get it dipped. But the only part that is not flawless is the button that you push in and down. Thats a good shout Right now I'm putting my last pennies for my "extra cash" into the exhaust. I had more in mind a few dollar to maybe $15-$20 fix at most lol. I believe I briefly looked at the door mechanics when I had it off all those times.. and it wasn't a piece that appeared was designed to come off to be replaced. Spring loaded, etc.. I'll take a another mechanical look at the workings of the door, it may be something that will be best served by removing the door itself and replacing it OEM. (or refinishing myself) Otherwise, I may have luck taping the inside of the car up and covering.. then sanding, priming, and painting that button... perhaps even clear coating it and then wet sanding the clear coat for the finish that looks best to make it durable to future "nicks". Another thing that has an outside chance of working as I type this.. is painting it like I have been (touching up).. and then using a clear coat touchup marker/pen to "seal" the paint there. Essentially what is happening is the paint just isn't bonding very strong I suppose to that plastic and thus is coming off with regular normal pressure use of the button. Whatever I end up doing, if it works.. I'll certainly take pictures and post it up for any others now or in the future who want a "cheaper" way to make that area look new again. Thanks!