Chromatic

Well did a bit of searching.. and this product: (IronX) Crazy Review about it here: http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/product-reviews/42651-review-carpro-iron-x.html Seems to be THE go to solution for Baked in Brake dust,.. metallic or semi-metallic contaminants in paint (Car body or wheels). I have a good feeling about this stuff to be honest.

Ok, wasn't easy to get a clear enough picture of the front wheel(s) to show the blemishes/stains I'm talking about.. the shots kept looking like perfect unblemished wheels.. Then I switched to another Camera and went at an angle on this overcast day and it picked it up fairly well. See towards the center of the wheel.. on the "spokes" as they go in? That isn't something you can wipe off.. it's ON there.. and I think IN it. I've cleaned the wheels, polished them, and waxed them (hey they are painted surfaces why not ? ).. No, I haven't put the Tire shine on yet.. as is obvious in the photo (if it shows the tire, probably does). But what is that? It's on the front two wheels, and not the rear two. Any thoughts on it? Is it even possible to try to make it better , "get it out",.. or is that there forever? Oh.. and the car looks good lol.. but there are blemishes like that you see in that picture.. but it looks like this essentially: I really need to wash it and throw another coat of wax and tire shine on and get some better pictures (Be nice to have something besides this Iphone 4 to take pics with )

Yes the passenger is the same procedure -- It has less electrical plugs attached due to switches.. but otherwise it prys off gently (but firmly) like the Driver.

I'm just messing with you guys on the spelling differences. I think I'm outnumbered anyways. The weather is about to get nasty here.. so haven't applied anything just yet.. I also picked up some Duplicolor 3 N 1 Touch up paint for my 350's paint code. $15 for the Pen,.. but it has Primer, Paint, and Clearcoat somehow all in the new packaging.. One of those is sort of a lifetime of the car thing.. the front bumper of this car is particularly weak when it comes to chipping.. from rocks I'm sure. Nothing major with the car, but with the touchup I'll have to prep the areas.. will have to figure out how I plan on doing that as I keep it with fresh wax to keep my claying and polishing protected. I'll probably Clay the areas I'm going to touchup.. Do the touchup.. let it dry for as long as I can without driving it, then based on what I read figure out if I can put some protectant over it, or if I should leave it exposed to let it "cure" more. It's just some micro chips here and there that most people wouldn't bother with. Also have a tiny bit of curb rash on two rims.. very very tiny.. maybe 1-2mm by 5-6mm or so and I have the '08 Factory 18" wheels which no one knows the paint to match it.. so I grabbed some GM paint code I read on the forums. Not sure how I should prep the bit of curb rash on the wheels either, except just cleaning them.. Where they have been rubbed it's actually black.. Which makes me think it's exposed the black first under layer of paint these wheels actually were painted. I believe these wheels are painted black then a silver over top to give them their color? Speaking on wheels.. my front wheels have these stains in them.. almost like brake dust that never got cleaned off that's embedded in them... I need to take some close up pics of them to see if you guys have any special tips -- but the way they feel, it's not something I can get "off/out".. I can't imagine they are worn down paint wise in those areas.. So not too sure what's going on. (It's just the 2 front wheels.. which makes me tend to think Brake dust more..) Well, brought up about 3 topics in one there Soon I'll put some Pictures up of what this Armor all Extreme Tire/Tyre Gel looks like.. and try to get some shots of those front wheels, maybe even the curb rash on the two right wheels to get everyone's opinions on the minor cosmetics of the wheels to see if any improvement can be made, or if that's just the way they will remain type of thing.

Ok the bleed didn't "fix it". I'm wondering if this is normal? It's just when I'm in high RPMS and push the clutch pedal when the engine is spinning at high RPMS the pedal feels like I FEEL the engine through it (that's a better description).. But makes no sense really.. I mean could it just be those RPM's create INSTANT heat that cause the pedal to do this.. and when the RPM's go back under 4k it's perfect immediately? Or could it be the engine/flywheel/driveshaft etc spinning so fast gets transferred through that pedal and I'm over sensitive to it? I dunno.. I guess you guys can tell me your experiences.. When you rev a gear up to say 6500'ish then push the clutch in to shift.. Does the pedal feel EXACTLY the way it would if you were in 5th gear at 2100rpm shifting to 6th? If you aren't sure.. try it out for me, see if there is any "normalness" to this? I picked up some Dot 4 fluid as I did some research and it's fine to put in there. I'm going to put that in to see if the higher temp rating will help.. won't hurt.

Just have to say the Invidia Gemini Cat-Back is freaking PERFECTLY awesome. If you are still undecided, etc.. And want a great sound that's not too loud .. This is the Exhaust to stay "classy" but sound "mean" and Racecar like when on the gas. I thought the first day it wasn't loud enough.. but after 1 day of driving something changed in My brain or the exhaust.. either way.. it's perfect for me. (I was thinking of getting Test pipes or HFC's... to louden it up.. but now I have no desire for them.. All I do is listen to the exhaust and don't even turn on my 3-4 grand stereo I just put in.. Gas mileage has dropped from 25 to 16.. (Actually better than I expected with how I've been downshifting, engine braking,.. staying in higher RPM range (but not speeding).. etc... all for noise.) One thing with this (and probably most good exhausts) is you have to put the gas on to hear the exhaust tone come alive.. So it's literally positive reinforcement to hold the gas down.. Not GOOD for your wallet haha.. But it is what it is. Definitely adds more fun to the already awesome car.

Be careful with the Ebay LED's.. I had to RE-Solder 2 of the 4 LED's before they would actually WORK in the connectors due to poor quality control/manufacturing.. Most people would just throw it away and say it didn't work.. AND one of the Tag lights a single sqaure LED patch started flickering on and off.. nothign I could do here except physically remove that square LED (lowering the light output).. I contacted the seller and it's obvious he is very Non English.. had trouble communicating with him about a simple replacement bulb. He kept wanting to give me a full refund and I had to INSIST to just send me a single replacement bulb and not refund me.. He finally understood and it's on the way.

Sure.. I take it you have an 06-08 model? Because they are different . With the 07-08 models (and I THINK) the 06 model as well.. You get a flat head screw driver (or panel tools if you have them) (most don't).. and start prying.. Here I will draw a diagram for you: (Click to enlarge) Ok, IF your car is 2006-2008 this is the way.. You start at spot number one.. Be gentle, but give it enough force to pop that end up a little .. Then start working your way down the side at 2, 3, and 4 -- And you might have it off before step/location 5.. but if not.. work at that end and you'll get it out without damaging it. Now you have, IIRC, two plugs attached to it.. there is enough slack in those plugs to pull up on that top panel you just pulled out and use a flat head screw driver to pop the electric plugs out of the sockets (or use your fingers.. whatever works best for you.. not hard at all.) Then the installation is reverse of removal. It's VERY, VERY simple and fast. Took me about 4-5 minutes to remove and put new panel in.. But no rush.. Thing is.. if you are replacing the old.. you can be a little more confident when prying the old one off cause it you snap it , etc.. It doesn't really matter.. cause a new one is going in. But still try not to.. because it has SOME value.. esp. if you refinish it and then put it up for sale. Putting the new panel back on is just putting the switch plugs back in.. then putting #5 area in first and then sides and then back.. I didn't put them in tight at first.. just got them set up right.. Then, I moderately pressed until it clicked. It literally just clicks into place. IF you are in a 2003-2005 model.. it's SIMILAR, but you have a screw to unscrew -- It will be IN the handle and be under this little guy: With our 2006-2008's there's no bottom to that handle, and no screw.. so it just pops off. I know that sounds odd at first, but it's the way it is! Hope that helps.

I ALMOST got the Endurance.. but was overwhelmed with the choices at Autozone.. They had three rows.. You had the sprays, then the foams, then the gels, then the "Black" from every company (For like $14-$20) and the Black versions were to last 1+ months per application and were an aerosol spray .. I wasn't going to spend that kind of money. So I saw the Armor All Extreme Tire Shine Gel w/ Applicator, For $7.95 -- and said, hrmm.. Seems a reasonable one to try for the money. This one: I'll def. take before and after pics just for reference for you guys.. I think it'l do the job really.. I wanted to get the NXT Ultimate spray but I could tell the sprays were the short lived/duration products.. the foams were about the same .. the gels were second longest duration and then those Black aerosol cans that were crazy expensive were the longest duration (it's basically like spray painting an adhesive to your tire.. can't be good for it.) Why do you guys spell Tire, Tyre? I understand Colour, Armour, Favourite, and so on.. but Tyre? Do you see our "Tire" and think.. that looks funny?

Been hunting/researching the Net for "how to change Slave cylinder in 350z" for hours now.. And I now know why I can't find it! lol.. One unfortunate thing maintenance wise for the 2007 and 2008 "redesigns" is Nissan used a Concentric Slave Cylinder (I may have that first word wrong) -- but the bad part is up until then the 350's had the Slave cylinder in an accessible spot. On the 2007 and 2008 350's the Slave cylinder is IN the Bell housing.. so to change it you have to drop the Tranny! That's not a DIY project I feel comfortable with, and is something that if your gonna drop a tranny you better go ahead and put in a new clutch, flywheel, etc.. Similarly now.. if you are replacing a clutch in an 07/08 you better go ahead and replace that Slave cylinder. The money is in the Labor time costs.. not the parts there. Hrmm.. Some other people have said that Running the braided line where you can.. and Changing the Dot 3 out for Dot 4 (and some say Dot 5.1)? -- (but not DOT 5 cause it's silicone based) Solved their pedal issues (most of these people didn't have just a funny feeling, they had clutch pedal not raising back up.. or only coming half way up.. etc. Mine goes down and up just fine. (haha.. that's what she said right ) So given this.. Is the Line to the Slave cylinder easily accessible to run a Braided line if the Slave is actually inside the Bell housing? Makes me wonder because I'm curious how I would hook it to the actual Slave cylinder you know? Any help/pics/ input would help. Thanks

And that's 100% awesome! I almost wish I didn't care about the way my car looked (detailed) and even the way the paint felt, how it's protected,.. etc etc to the degree I do. Because it's a full time job really.. After a day, I use the California Duster if it was a good day (no rain, etc) .. to "maintain" the polish/wax of the car.. (Really is a safe, and great tool to have if you use it somewhat regularly as it helps keep you from having to do a full on wash/wax etc longer..): If curious: http://www.autogeek.net/caldus.html?productid=caldus&channelid=FROOG&utm_source=CSEs&utm_medium=GoogleProductSearch&utm_campaign=CSE&gclid=CO-tvseav7wCFYNQ7AodTlIA1Q I don't need or WANT something stupid expensive.. It's not that a product that creates the wet look/shine I want has to be some "high end" product at all.. it's just finding it is all.. Nothing in the shops do it like I know it can be done as I described with the other chemicals that have been applied before that I have no idea what they are.! You aren't in the minority lol.. The *majority* don't wash their cars.. and when they do they run it through an auto wash and maybe occasionally go to a "detail" centre that does a halfway job for $20-$50.

TLDR Below if you want to skip the "history" Hey guys, ladies..I'm also a Car detailing fanatic.. Goes hand in hand with my new 350Z addiction. :)First a brief history..Got into "true" Car detailing with my previous car.. (wasn't nearly as beautiful as this one).. Learned all the in's and out's of Washing with proper "soap (if you want to call it that)",.. using proper "tools" to wash it without swirling/scratching.. Using microfiber, etc to Dry. Then into the Clay barring.. (This to me is the absolute BEST thing everyone should learn about imho).. Then got into machine polishing.. Use a Dual Action and Rotary.. And boned up on the various wax products, layering them (if you want X protection/look) or just using one.. ie: Synthetic NXT 2.0 with a Carnauba Wax topper (a few days/weeks) after the synthetic bonding agent.. and what products to use on plastic, leather, interiors etc that don't damage.. and on goes the list. First thing I did with this 2008 350Z with 26k miles I met the guy to look at.. was run my fingers across the paint. It looked great .. but the second I touched the paint.. I knew it hadn't been cared for properly. The luck for me is it had so few miles so the paint was/is in good condition.. solid thick clearcoat.. etc (The guy must have not ever waxed it.. ) So it wasn't any sort of deal breaker, I just knew I had my work cut out for me to get the paint up to speed to the car. Bought the car obviously.. and first weekend (which was the next day).. I washed it.. Then got a new claybar kit with two claybars.. This was the worst car I had personally owned -- It felt the like the embedded particles you know are IN your paint but can't so much feel them.. Well this car actually felt like you imagine it when you are claying. -- That translated into a 3+ hours clay bar job.. Used nearly the whole bottle of lubricant, and both bars on it. But when I was done.. oh man,.. smooth as a baby's butt. What a feeling of satisfaction. (For sake of brevity.. I proceeded to spend the rest of Sat and Sunday going through the Wash/Clay/Polish with X polish, then Y polish, then Z finishing polish../Wax with X wax.. Then do a once over on the interior.. I still have a bit more interior work to do.. but to everyone else the interior is immaculate,. but clean and "detailed" are two different words to people like us. TL;DR -- Start reading here for actual Question *Well.. I'm curious what products do you guys like for that "wet look" tire shine.I know people vary in what they like their tires to appear like.. Some like a more matte finish, some like a tire that looks literally WET.. as shiny as you can make it (ie: Armour All isn't enough.. ).I tend to fall into the latter category.. I like the "as wet as you can make it look".. and a product that lasts. I used to have some stuff that lasted me half a decade that my brother brought home from a detailing car place he used to work at (over a decade ago).. That stuff was perfect.. no name, in a clear jug and have no clue what it was.I've yet to find a product that produces that kind of shine. Coincidentally there is this "Goo-Goo Car wash chain" around here that you pay $10-$14 and there are people who guide you in to the machine (you put your car into neutral and the wash brings your car along tracks through it) -- It does a really decent job (but I won't use it because I just won't use any wash like that due to swirl marks.. and it just doesn't do the job I do..). BUT, I mention it only because it has a "Tire shine" part of it.. where these two wheel scrubbers come out and says applying Tire shine. When you get out your tires look like the look I'm after, and it lasts forever! I asked what it was, but they either didn't know (their words) or it's proprietary to their wash.. shrug.I'm in the states,.. but for this stuff ordering anywhere is worth it to me.. The good stuff lasts a long time (week-2 weeks ) between reapplication and the key is the degree of shine/wetlook.So any names/products out there you either use that does this? Or.. perhaps you know does this but you personally don't like your tires looking like that and don't use it. ;)Thanks

Feel like I'm de-railing this thread. But, to respond.. It's primarily due to the Hatchback design.. In *general* all hatchbacks sound better accoustically.. but there's something about the Z's that put them a notch above just any hatchback. Even in my older 300ZX when I had a previous "system" (I did not install it).. it blew away everyone else's (this was in highschool).. even the rich kids who had 5+ thousand dollar systems simply because my subs were rear firing toward the hatchback (my best guess). I had a few guys who kept upgrading their systems trying to match mine.. and I tried to explain to them you can spend all the money in the world but it's the shape of the "room".. or "car" in this case that is making the difference here. My "System" in the 300ZX was $1500 installed .. was good, but wasn't anything near top of the line.. Was two 12" subs, and the two MB Quart speakers you see I put in the rear of the 350Z (I saved them all these years.. and I finally had a reason to use them ! )

Changing to a braided line will also help.. Ya,.. If I do the Slave cylinder (obviously won't if this miraculously makes a huge difference).. then I'll run braided lines,.. Just like brakes they should help with heat and generally just be more resiliant. Any way to really know if the Slave cylinder has gone bad?

No, none. And from the looks of the old fluid.. It looks like the fluid Nissan put in it in 2008.

Thanks for all the suggestions.. I actually did the fluid before reading them.. but it's a pretty obvious one I guess. The slave cylinder should be ok.. I know all the 350's have issues with them potentially.. but they did change the later models (mines an '08) to a CSC, sort of a step up from the old technology the earlier 350's had. However, I do not think that solved the "weak" Slave cylinder issue that had been plagueing people under warranty. If I do end up changing the Slave Cylinder.. Is that something fairly easy? No dropping the tranny or anything right? I know it's right there by the bell housing IIRC.. as the bleed valve was that I used.

Decided the clutch fluid looked bad.. and I suspect it hasn't been touched ever. This is what it looked like: And here's what I got from bleeding it! Here it is now.. looks a little better. Haven't gone out and "pushed" the car again yet to see if it makes any difference, but I think that was needed regardless.. it was nasty! I just used Some good name brand Dot 3 fluid,.. Thought about switching it out for high temp Dot 4, but that stuff is more prone absorbing water, etc.. I'm not on the race track,.. so

Just to keep everyone up to speed I have a 2008 350Z with 27k Miles (all verified). Prev. owner didn't so much as put in a new bulb on his own, he handed me a stack of papers where every oil change, brake job, etc was done not only at a shop, but at Nissan! ouch! But, buying the car that wasn't a "minus" So this car was not driven hard.. I checked for all those signs before buying it.. and only "worked on" by Nissan cert. mechanics at Nissan. It has 27k miles (had 26k when I bought). Now the car drives phenomenal.. However I've been driving it "normally" .. shifting at reasonable rpm's.. etc. I've pushed it a few times but not much. Tonight I decided to give a couple 3 or 4 .. rolling starts from 30-40mph till (shh.. 120'ish mph) .. So that equated to down shifting into 2nd.. and pushing it and winding out 2nd,.. and pushing 3rd a good bit.. and in this car you wind out 4th gear you are WAY beyond the low 100's.. Here's my question of sorts.. Clutch is low mileage (relatively).. hasn't been ragged.. be me or anyone else.. And it does NOT slip. I've tested it many times to ensure (even after I did this) -- (Easy check is to throw it in about 2 gears too high for your speed (say you are going 40mph.. throw it in 5th or 6th and floor it.. If the clutch is beginning to slip,.. you'll see it very clearly (and feel it) on the RPM gauge as it ever so slightly slips up the rpm gauge (when it's toast, you can put it in 5th gear at a dead stop and it will rev like you had it in neutral for example). But.. When I pushed it.. after it gets into the mid/upper rpm range.. say 5k+ The *clutch* pedal feels completely different (it's sort of a feel you get after driving manuals all your life).. I'd say spongy but that's a little different feel.. but I'll use that description for now. When the car comes back down to under 4-5k RPM the clutch pedal feels like it should. What's going on here? Answers I sort of expect are.. "The slave cylinder in these cars are poor.. maybe it's that". Well, if that is , indeed, the case.. Is this how a bad slave cylinder feels? Just funny in the pedal but holds the power on the flywheel fine, and feels normal under 5k rpm? I guess I'm just wondering if I need to be saving for an aftermarket clutch and slave cylinder (I've heard you should go ahead and replace this cars slave cylinder regardless of if it's gone out on you with any clutch change). I'm in "modification" mode with money.. but if this is some indication of the clutch/and or slave going out .. My priorities need to shift to saving for new aftermarket clutch + slave cylinder (aftermarket) Plus the big cost the installation. Sorry I can't describe a 'feel" better .. maybe you have some insight -- and maybe it's nothing? Thanks

Delete me please

Drove the car more.. just got back from a "joy ride" if you will,.. tonight. It's loud enough! lol. Doubt it got any louder,.. but it's considerably louder than I was saying yesterday. The exhaust DOES have drone. BUT,.. I don't think an aftermarket exhaust exists on the planet without drone somewhere in the RPM band.. For this exhaust it's VERY low in the RPM band.. go drive around with gas on the pedal at 2k-2400rpm with this exhaust (radio off) and tell me there isn't a "drone" of that lovely deep note . The good news, I LIKE drone -- Everyone says how they hate it , but it's really the drone you might get cruising on the highway, etc.. Thing is with this car, if you drive it like I do.. you can be in 6th gear at 2-3k rpms at highway speeds.. or close enough -- It's geared so spread out that this car, while built for the peak power in the upper RPM range, cruises all day long at 2k-3k rpm.. I'll say if you are driving above 3500rpm you could shift (unless you are breaking the speed limit on the highway) (These are approximations, so do get pedantic on me ) So the Test pipes, etc are a no go for now. Loving it.. and the sound will only get better.

Oh Don't take that as fact, nor offense. It's just what one person anecdotally noticed while shopping for them for about a year. I'm absolutely positive if I HAD to have a Blue one, they would all be priced higher, and unavailable!

lol.. I may have the UK strain.. but the US strain is Alive and well.. I'm double infected Can you link me your Berk HFC's? Seems like the HFC's are quite expensive.. but the Test pipes (more power).. but risk the CEL are under $200. I bought my Berks HFC's from a trader on here; Tarmac Sportz ~ (2003-2006 cars) http://www.tarmacspo...1-HFC-MET_.aspx (2007-2008 cars) http://www.tarmacspo...7-HFC-MET_.aspx You could always PM Chris at Tarmac Sportz to see what he can do for you but I suspect it will still be cheaper to buy them from the US. Worth noting you may still get the CEL (EML) come on even with decent high flow Cats although it is less likely. The only real way around it is a re-map (tune up) which ultimately will help you get the most from the mods your doing and improve the car greatly imo. Yeah you guys have it cheaper -- I've found sites a little cheaper than that even in UK "Money".. problem is the conversion to US is terrible.. My "guy" gave me a price of $450 for the Berk HFC's.. Which is fair I suppose, but that's a lot at this point. Anyone have any experience, or read/heard anything about the Berk Test pipes? They are much cheaper,.. and if they would sound good I would go that route right now.. If I need the HFC's.. it will be a while

Made a video with an old Kodak Camera and Iphone due to them having different audio,.. Not much to them.. and tried to use a dB meter on one,.. but Battery on my old Kodak Camera lasts about 1-2 minutes from 100% to empty,.. so no luck there.

Thanks. It sounds 100 times better than I was going for. It's utterly amazing,.. I spent $800 on all speakers, amp, headunit, wiring.. (Had the two MB Quart rear speakers from a previous system in my 300ZX).. Hard to describe sound... but take the best Factory Premium sound system you've ever heard that had a sub in it.. and multiply it by 20 or so.. and that's where this is. Super clean Sound quality,.. Tight powerful Bass from the 10 inch Sub.. Beautiful Highs from the four 1" tweeters surrounding me.. incredibly mids from the Four 6.5" Mids surrounding me.. And powered with 900 watts off the Amp,.. (And my "custom" cooling system for the Amp in the glove box ). It sounds so good.. I've actually gone out to my car and watched 2+ hour movies on the Headunit (it's a DVD player) on the 6.1" screen lol. I HIGHLY recommend buying some $100-$200 6.5" component speakers and a single 8" or 10" sub for the 350Z -- it's ALL you need for a phenomenal sound. If you need a head unit -- I HIGHLY recommend the Kenwood DDX470 -- For $300 you get a DVD player, CD Player, MP3 (USB player), Iphone Input, Touch screen, Pandora control built in touchscreen, Built in bluetooth with voice dialing that links wireless to your phone,.. navigation from your phone runs off the cable (I routed into the compartment above the radio) and any other program will.. for $25 (like I showed) you can buy the reverse camera,.. do your own install and the headunit has a plugin for the reverse camera. When you put the gear shifter into reverse it automatically pops the screen to the reverse camera.. when you take it out of reverse it goes back to your music, dvd, etc.. http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_65909_Kenwood-DDX470.html?SearchClickout%5Bquery_id%5D=19285556&SearchClickout%5BIgnore%5D=1 That radio/head unit is by far the best bang for the buck at the current moment. You can't get all that stuff for $300 in anything else.. What else could you ask for. Sorry,.. I'm going on about it, but it shocked the hell out of me when I found it among the $750-$1000 headunits for $300.. I was like, are you kidding me? You do NOT need rear speakers at all in the 350.. so don't bother buying them, don't bother buying an amp to run anything more than 2 front speakers and a sub. If you have a head unit already,.. you can get this stuff for $300-$450 and install it yourself. (I spent $800-$900 (plus had a set of $500 rear speakers already) -- And ended up with a $2500-$3500 sound system due to main cost being in installation because it's so labor intensive and takes a bit of fabrication (but you can buy speakers that fit without any fabrication if you can't do that work.). Just for some $75 front speakers and a single sub.. 4 shops around here quoted me $1500-$1650. Which is what prompted me to just buy it online and install myself. (I had NEVER installed a speaker in a car in my life.. and I took on every possible thing at once and ripped the whole interior out and succeeded.!) -- I'm not saying do what I do, which is a bit overkill.. but 2 speakers + single sub is very cheap and sounds great. But back on topic -- Little known fact about 350Z -- It is acoustically one of the best cars on the planet for sound systems/speakers (you get MUCH better quality sound due to the design.)

Yay! -- I'm still gonna get some Berks.. :Evilgrin: .. You guys have created a money eating demon in my brain! Wow,. this is getting addicting FAST.