RobPhoboS

Yeah it looks like there are two ways to solve that, one is by popping in the brembo anit-knockback springs and the other is to have a valve in the brake system that has a pre-pressure in it already but they are both for pure track use (imho). I think at the very least I need to clean down my callipers and inspect them, perhaps get them rebuilt by the trader on the forum if required: http://www.350z-uk.com/forum/226-brake-caliper-specialists/

You can smell it immediately, and in my initial post it was just dripping (not loads just a bit). Whereas the other night it was just the smell and slightly damp to the touch on that same bracket.

Hmm, maybe I need to find someone nearby with ds2500's so I can see how they are. I'm really looking for quite a solid pedal at the top. Ah I believe I may have found the term I was looking for: pad knockback http://www.stoptech.com/technical-support/technical-white-papers/pad-knockback As when I double tap my brakes, they feel brilliant, hmm doing some reading.

I bought a Sealey STW1012 (usual places - ebay/amazon) I've not had a problem before just this time, so I wonder if it's because it requires a bit of oil on it or if I pinched it slightly.

Aye but sometimes it could have been those little jdm calipers or not the brembo pads. Can't assume anything!

What was your previous set-up ? Do you find these pads are compressible when cold/hot ? I'm finding, after bleeding my brake system around 6 times that my yellowstuff pads initial pedal travel is annoying (ie - I want it biting sooner rather than say 1/2 - 1 inch travel). So I'm wondering if this is just a compressibility characteristic of the pad compound ? (this is something Sly had suggested to me as well) I've not experienced any fade on these pads, and they really are reliable, I'm just not keen on that initial bite. Pads/Discs/Lines (SS) are only a year old, and I'll be bedding them in again anyway. If I decide to go for the DS2500's, Marcus is going to skim and inspect the discs first of all

Ahhh ok. For me up here in London I just have a dusting over the car which then had some rain splashes on it. When it's like this I'm glad my neighbour (back in Surrey) donated a gazebo for me to work on the car

Tight to you might be loose to somebody else though. Always best to follow the manufacturers torque settings for things like this. There are torque settings for a reason. Stuff that's been over tightened on my car has just snapped when I've undone it, or loose which is just as bad or dangerous. If you work on the car it's worth having a low-torque wrench as well as a bigger one for wheels/suspension etc. It's not expensive to do it properly.

Call me crazy (or just wrong in this case ) but can you not spray a load of QD over it and use a mf cloth (decent one) to get rid of the dusting ? (as you have lubricant on the paint so it shouldn't scratch)

I bought the same hole saw but my arbor/mandrel is the wrong size. Did you buy the one from the same eBay seller because the one in his picture has a couple of protuberances that look like they will stop the screw reaching the hole saw? It doesn't look like the arbor in the R&D video above... My stepdad had the connecting piece (luckily!) as I had totally forgotten about it. He just had some multi hole saw kit, which annoyingly had the same 51mm bit in there too. Unfortunately I can't give you any details as that stuff is back in Surrey.

I used the VHT wrinkle paint, no primer, just 3 coats or so. I did clean it with carb cleaner, rubbed it down a bit with some green sanding sponge type of stuff (similar to this http://www.halfords.com/motoring-travel/cleaning-body-repair/fillers-preparation/halfords-sanding-sponge-medium-coarse )... then carb cleaner again to get rid of the dust, masked it up properly and sprayed it.

You tell us

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xa3GpmKax1I

If you bought the carb cleaner you can clean up the threads on the plugs and the edges of the metal surfaces without fear of an unwanted chemical in the engine. Spray it onto a microfiber cloth, wipe it all down as carefully as possible. If you saw my rocker cover thread, I just used cling film over any openings.

Well I bought a 225pc assortment box of O-rings that should arrive tomorrow as a 'just-in-case', and contacted Clark as well http://www.amazon.co..._pr_product_top

Try and stick to the 6/hex sockets rather than the star looking ones - they tend to slip causing rounding of bolts... nissan bolts like rounding far too easily. Impact sockets tend to be better as well (the black ones) but sizes from 10-21mm will be fine. No idea about the discs though.

The way you've worded your post doesn't sound like you know what you're doing, so er - be careful What ever year your car is - look at the workshop manual: http://www.nicoclub....ce-manuals.html Then choose the br.pdf to read - for whichever year it is (bolt/nut sizes will be in there). Secondly - there IS a guides section on this forum - have a look: http://www.350z-uk.c...orum/35-guides/ Or on the US one as well: http://my350z.com/fo...ension-diy-459/ Buy: torque wrench - seriously, over or under tightening stuff up could be asking for trouble (1/2 drive, 20-200nm approx will be fine for most jobs - around 500mm long should be ok). A can of Plus Gas will help with removing stuff (WD40 is shite). A tube/tub of copper grease. It's an easy job, however - I managed to snap bolts when removing things in the past it's easily done unfortunately. (It's also why I bought an impact wrench )

Right, I think I should order a replacement o ring. I was just driving to the gym, accelerated a little bit at a junction and then could immediately smell some fuel. I just wondered if anyone knows the part number for this ? It's the fuel sub-tube O ring. The other thing I saw in the manual was that you are: INSTALLATION 1. Install fuel damper and fuel sub-tube. â— When handling new O-rings, be careful of the following caution: CAUTION: â— Handle O-ring with bare hands. Do not wear gloves. â— Lubricate O-ring with new engine oil. â— Do not clean O-ring with solvent. â— Make sure that O-ring and its mating part are free of foreign material. â— When installing O-ring, be careful not to scratch it with tool or fingernails. Also be careful not to twist or stretch O-ring. If O-ring was stretched while it was being attached, do not insert it quickly into fuel tube. â— Insert O-ring straight into fuel tube. Do not decenter or twist it. What does the oil do ?

Post up some before/after pics once you've tried those dent kits out

Find out what one they gave you JUST in case (although I'd assume they are roughly the same no?). I've used a Nissan one, one from Clark and just a few weeks ago one from Opie oils.

The spray will work better than water. Irrespective of cleaning it - why does it look all gunky in there ? (anyone know?)

You won't need anything else, just spray it on, and wipe it away - repeat as required

Lol no: http://www.halfords.com/motoring-travel/engine-oils-fluids/fuel-oil-additives/wynns-fuel-injection-carburettor-cleaner-500ml

Buy a can of carb cleaner.

That looks nasty, I used carb cleaner and a microfibre cloth. But my one was just lightly coated in oil.