cs2000

Thanks guys OK, list so far would be this then. Keep adding names if youre interested and il keep you all updated. 1. alfa_owner (2x) 2. craigmdennis 3. StuZGT 4. baileydom 5. Kryptek49 6. Jack94

Thanks Martin for the post. As Martin said, il be taking over for him for a few months. i have agreed with Martin to sell exactly the same product, built exactly the same way at the same price so absolutely no difference for you guys. I have modules in stock ready to go, complete with brand new instructions written for both DE and Hr/Rev-Up cars (HR/Rev-up are the same, but different from DE). Instructions will be provided via a PDF link you can always access any time you want. Also makes it easier for me to make ammendments if ever required. In the package you will get: 1x Mirror Fold Module 1x Wiring Harness with Bullet Crimps 6x Scotch Lock connectors (plenty for spares) All this for the previously set price by Martin of £42.50 Plus £4.95 postage and packaging (1st class recorded) If you want one, just reply to this, and il get in touch via PM.

Managed to dump my rom today and had a quick look at the rom file in RomRaider, looks good, but not changing anything! Need more time to experiment with the software. Posted a question over on their forums as I have a slight issue however, but waiting for my post to be approved

Remove the weight on the inside of the boot lid plastic trim too. Even with brand new poppers an SGS struts, mine still wouldnt pop on a cold morning until i removed the weight.

No worries mate, each to their own Glad you like the stripes though

The Abbey map (UpRev) only pops and bangs on low throttle application, like when youre slowing down if you hold the throttle open a tiny bit it rumbles, or if you do it at high RPM through a tunnel it sounds like World War 3 has kicked off! Also does it when you change up and down gears. I know this is a public forum so let me state this, the van filming me was doing about 25-35 mph, I perhaps touched 53-4 once but as we all know the tunnel is average 50 so I stayed under this, the run was done under or at the speed limit at around 3AM, OK?! This was also for the short few months the car had cats on it, so its a bit louder now. Randomly however with a nice quick high RPM change there is a nice bang from the rear, makes me giggle like a child!

Agreed, get some Goodridge hoses, my HEL lines failed

Would have lasted a lot longer if i wasnt using pops and bangs. Mine is a DE however so i dont have switchable maps!

Yeah its pretty simple, it will break your cats, it happened to me. All the cats are is basically a roll of corrugated metal coated in something (platinum or something iiirc). The pops and bangs are literally un burnt fuel passing through the engine and exploding somewhere in the hot exhaust header. This constant high pressure of the explosion causes the cats to move and form a cone shape, eventually the cone will push out so far that the cat material will simply unravel and come flying out of your exhaust along with loads of black soot that was caught in the cat. I had the Berks HFC's fitted, they lasted 6-7 months after my remap before they both exploded out of the rear of the car. Unfortunately for me the cat material got stuck where the single centre pipe splits to each exhaust with such force it basically welded itself into a solid lump, queue 2 hours of trying to extract a solid metal lump 18 inches up an exhaust pipe with no straight access to it. Not fun times! Personally, im now running "decats" effectively. The berks HFC's are still there, but with no cat inside of the canisters.

@RobPhoboS what was the cost of your rebuild? just out of interest.

Certainly not 2 hours away, sorry mate, just if anyone was local or fancied coming to me id be happy to assist

Hopefully Flyboy will be here to do the GB soon. I did offer to take over, but he said he would be back so have to wait i guess. If anyone does receive one and needs someone to fit (Essex) , drop me a PM.

Wish i had the skills and the balls to do this. Ive been ignoring mine in the vain hope it will go away as quotes ive been getting are £1000+ to resolve the same issue (but on both sides).

Of course, the usual place I get things from is eBay https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/SEA-FOAM-Diesel-Petrol-engine-injector-carb-cleaner-SF16-14-00-Free-postage/152729863408?epid=16008808657&hash=item238f68c4f0:g:MUgAAOSwEYBaU3fs Ive used it in all my cars, the Z had probably had 3 or 4 treatments over the years. Its very simple to use. 1/3rd of a can in a full tank of fuel, another 1/3rd you suck into the plenum via the brake booster line and the other 1/3rd put into engine oil 100 ish miles before an oil change. Theirs more detailed guides around on the net of course, but has never done me any harm and the deposits and smoke that come out the back are insane if you have a really gummed up engine.

Cant say i looked at my valves to be honest, but your upper plenum looked much the same as mine, perhaps a touch worse I ran some Seafoam through the engine oil this last week (so have now had it though the fuel system and air intake system) and had a service at the weekend from Sly at Kaizer Motors, cant say i noticed any smoke at all on the way home so i think a combination of these things helped fix the issue. The only smoke i did see is when i was in the dartford tunnel and engaged 2 step launch control, but that expected as you get a load of un burnt fuel in the exhaust and im running full decat too so it wouldnt have burnt off properly. The PCV is dead, i too could blow a small amount of air through, you're not supposed to be able to do this at all.

I dont like abandoning projects and its something that ive put a LOT of time into developing and pulled favours with friends with knowledge in the automotive electrics arena, so im kinda bummed about it, but its just the way it is. That, and i now know more about what the switch does because in testing i blew mine up and had my drivers window stuck half down for 4 days whilst i ordered a replacement!

Well, some bad and some good news. Window Project Abandoned For safety reasons, i am abandoning this project. The window switch itself actually controls the windows (its not just a dumb switch). It deals with knowing when they're at the top and bottom of their travel, as well as the anti pinch system. My module can indeed close the windows when the car is locked, but it can not do safely. The anti pinch system is bypassed and the motor runs for X seconds (however long i set) and obviously eventually is trying to push a window that is likely already closed, so i have abandoned the project. I dont feel like bypassing these two OEM features is necessary a good thing, and nor do i want to cause damage to people or their cars, god forbid someone/something gets stuck in a closing window and causes flesh damage or shatters the window. The Later model cars (rev up on wards i believe) can roll the windows up or down (cant remember) by pressing and then holding the lock/unlock button on the fob. Its also VERY annoying as US delivered vehicles can roll up the windows by inserting the key into lock barrel on the door and holding this locked for a couple of seconds. The UK card have the wiring for this, but the ECU doesn't have the necessary code in it (or maybe just not enabled) to activate the feature. If we had the same feature enabled, I could have built a very simple module that didn't have to deal with handing large amperage currents, but alas this isn't possible with our UK ECU's. I dont like abandoning projects and its something that ive put a LOT of time into developing and pulled favours with friends with knowledge in the automotive electrics arena, so im kinda bummed about it, but its just the way it is. The board all works (in terms of basic functionality) so that side is all good, it just doesn't operate how i want it to and i wouldnt be happy with people running it in their vehicles knowing what it could maybe do. That, and i now know more about what the switch does because in testing i blew mine up and had my drivers window stuck half down for 4 days whilst i ordered a replacement! Working on other Projects I am simultaneously working on 2 other projects for the Z. These are below. 1. Full VDC Disable - This will be a little module that you install underneath the ashtray area in the Z. It will connect in-line with the OEM Yaw sensor module and when activated (with the simple press of a button) fully disable both VDC and TSC. No, the little button under the dash doesn't do this, it just disabled TSC). The module will also "remember" if it has been pressed meaning that unless you de-activate it (with another button press) next time you start the car it will auto-disable VDC for you. 2. LED Reflectors - I have had a bash at this in the past, but i now have a custom designed PCB with 150 SMD LED's on it (like what Z-LED's in the US offers), and space for some amber LED's for side repeaters. The PCB is all designed, i just need to find time to get these ordered and one assembled. The pure issue here is time, its 150 White and 50 amber LED's per reflector, hand soldering 400 SMD LED's..... Plus i can no longer find a source for the aftermarket reflectors, so this could also be an issue longer term. Paying for fabrication of these is possible, but due to sheer volume of components the costs are pretty high, but if i can get a single set built as a proof of concept, then get 10 pre-orders, assembly in China would be the way to go. Bluetooth Mod 2.0??? lastly, i want some feedback. I spent quite a lot of time on the Bluetooth mod, but the sales were...less than stellar and it was a difficult one to shift. I am looking at the connector on the tape deck and trying to find a replacement so that the Bluetooth module install will literately mean removing your tape deck and plugging my module in its place. Anyone that was tempted by this mod in the past but didn't go for it, what were the reasons? For me, Bluetooth audio streaming on the OEM Bose was something i wanted for YEARS but there was nothing out there that did it cleanly until my product came along and i have several members running it that (as far as i know) are all very happy with it, so therefore I can only summarise that it was due to the rather difficult installation (if you're not very technical / familiar with taking the Z's centre console apart etc). but let me know what you think.

Thanks for tagging me Paul. Youre semi correct. I Was working on something for this indeed, but theirs no safe way to do it in UK Vehicles. The window switch itself actually controls the windows, it deals wtih knowing when they're at the top and bottom of their travel, aswell as the anti pinch system. My module can indeed close the windows when the car is locked, but it can not do safely. The anti pinch system is bypassed and the motor runs for X seconds (however long i set) and obviously eventually is trying to push a window that is likely already closed, so i have abandoned the project, but working on 2 other things. The Later model cars (rev up on wards i believe) can roll the windows up or down (cant remember) by pressing and then holding the lock/unlock button on the fob. US delivered vehicles can roll up the windows by inserting the key into lock barrel on the door and holding this locked for a couple of seconds. The UK card have the wiring for this, but the ECU doesnt have the necessary code in it (or maybe just not enabled) to activate the feature.

Seems a tad pricey IMO, 10k for an 06? Admittedly, the mileage is pretty good, but asside from that its nothing particularly special.

@Wilbert350 Were the pads difficult to get in at all? I have it on my nearside caliper on the outer of the two pads. It was hard to remove the old one and hard to insert the new one, later found that the slider that the pads slide down into the caliper on were corroded and as such the pads didnt move freely in the caliper. Never really got it sorted as its hard to access/see the area in question, had to blindly file at it and hope. It did improve, but is still there once the car gets hot. had it pretty bad recently at japfest after 4 hot laps of the track, was genuinely scary to drive once everything got hot and expanded. As Alex says, its either DTV issues, or the pad sticking in the caliper.

Mine has recently started doing this too, but at under 90,000 miles. I actually park up next to a fence and noticed the fence was splattered with oil! I have (as a troubleshooting step) replaced the seals on all the spark plug tubes using the Torqen replacement kit, which didn't seem to have any effect, i too was getting oil pooling in bank 1 and 6 (the two closest to the rear of the engine bay). I then cleaned and tested the PCV which had no effect. What MOSTLY cured it for me was actually replacing the PCV. The car does still smoke, but not to the point where oil is spitting out of the exhaust. I also ran Seafoam (like cataclean) through the fuel injection and air intake system to remove any residual oil/deposits in these systems. LOTS of smoke came out, so there was a hell of a lot of carbon build up, but didnt stop the issue. I also got a bit lapse on my servicing due to time and money pressures (wedding and a new house) and ive read a couple of instances where others did all of these things to no avail, gave it a good service and it magically disappeared. My thinking is that if the engine is a little worn, like ours are, and the oil is full of particles, that they are causing the oil to weep past the stem seals or valve guides so a good service with an engine flush may help. Failing all of this, it likely will be the Valve stem seals, then the valve guides.

Haha thanks, if its gonna work, I want to do it right! The brains of it will be an Arduino pro mini. The language is understandable and it allows me to do some other cool tricks with it too ;) There is already a 12v live feed in the door anyway, so yes you'll tap off of that. The rest, il have to save for now ;) Need to order a rev 2 of the PCB. Some components don't quite fit (blame this being my first board ive designed). I "made them fit" for prototyping which went well, no magic smoke came out and no explosions, so that's cool. Il order the next version when I can and try it in the car (once ive sorted the programming out!)

Id go chargespeed. The rear spats are cool, but i think they need a diffuser too to make them look balanced. Chargespeed is the best bumper around IMO.

Just got the boards from the manufacturer today. Building tonight, followed by some programming a a lot of testing over the next few days/weeks. Have another project im working on too...

No worries mate, I like challenges! I have a "working" knowledge of electronics, but luckily have a friend based in Australia who designs things like new ECU's for GM cars, he's been assisting me turning my basic understanding into something that A, will work, and B will survive the harsh electrical environment in a vehicle. Plus he's been reviewing my board designs to make sure they actually will work. Components should be here today for a test board anyway