Keyser

Congrats mate Hope it all works out for ya

Called my boss today said "I won't be in I'm sick" He said "you don't sound sick" I said "I'm sleeping with my sister! How sick do you want?"

Just read this from my post on made me That first PC is fine mate as a basic - drop me an email if you want me sort something out for ya I'm not fat I'm cuddly! SMD - As per Mr G your entry fee went up gonna be a box each!!!

This should do evertything you want http://en.wikipedia....iki/ZX_Spectrum Before I tell you I can supply you a PC at trade can you just confirm you have reliable 240v mains that far north ??

Sweet - glad it works now I just finished putting a chair together from Ikea - there was a manual??? Sounds about right as well

Personally I find your informative posts compelling reading Well done mate keep it up for another 10,000

Enjoy

Thats the right link I sent you then - should help

Can you pick the lights up from the stereo ???? Here you go buddy http://www.carid.com...instruction.pdf try that Let us know if it works.

Very Nice

Sorry mate - different model MUHAAAAAAA Problem solved Try putting a 12v (5amp fuse supply) into the pink while the red is on 12v (5 amp fuse supply) its the ignition power should light up then To test - put black on the negative of the battery then pink and red on the positive. More info - RED - Connect BOTH RED wires to a constant 12 volt power source utilizing a 5A fuse. BLACK – Connect BOTH BLACK wires to a clean power ground. PINK - Connect to a switched 12 volt power source utilizing a 5A fuse. GREY - Connect to instrument lighting circuit supply voltage. *WHITE - Connect to Lambda + Input. *BROWN - Connect to Lambda – input. (Must be connected if Lambda + is used) *optional – only needed if using the available differential analog output

RED <Power> Connect to a switched 10-18 volt power source utilizing a 10A fuse. BLACK <Ground> Connect to a clean power ground. *WHITE <Analog Output> Connects to any auxiliary unit that accepts a 0-5 volt input. *BLUE <Serial Output> Connects to a RS-232 com port for hyper-terminal data logging So you don't need white white and blue - this is from the 4 pin that came with it - the other cable should have the plug that goes into the sensor 6 pin that should all be pre wired.

I would have thought so - and the display should read 0 - did you have the sensor plugged in when you tested? Don't think you should need it but to be 100% sure I would plug it all together and then try it - I assume you checked the wiring diagram???

Won't that make it slower??????

just scary !!!!!!!!!!

Karaoke is Japanese for "tone deaf". and Doesn't expecting the unexpected make the unexpected become the expected?

Yes just be careful, That's how I tested my AEM fuel gauge - I always test them first

+ 1 Can't PM Matt either I need a passenger inside side lower door trim - the one that looks like a hockey stick, Also be interested in the price on the passenger side lower dash cover complete - the bit with the cup holder in.

MIne are fine - I have heard of problems though with "dirty" power so mine are fed at the ECU but I think the problem is more to do with the output to the ECU rather than the gauge not coming on! - have you tested them accross a battery to be sure they are OK and working?

Thats you of the pax list then

"i didnt even realise there was a vortech crew" ( I would say get him guys but it's a very small crew) Big single turbo will be great for torque - if it's a custom build you won't know how it will perform until you do but some wicked results to be had - good luck with it - do a build thread

More important - Energizer Bunny Arrested; charged with battery.

How can you flag this, when you posted this!!.... I didn't I flagged SMD's reply to it

Many Happy Returns

Listen you I was born a pessimist My blood type is 'B' Negative