Keyser

Well Jel Nice

I'm Back !!!!!!! Have ya missed me????? Not that I actually went anywhere just haven't done much on the Green Machine lately but I thought I should try and fit her Christmas present before the Grasshopper meet A shout out to Wasso who found an ARC catch can sitting on G35Driver looking for a good home and gave me a heads up - thanks mate! The guy selling included the shipping and paypal fees in the price had it polished and I had no tax demand with it win win I then ordered some braided hose and funnily enough some GREEN connectors Then Ian stepped in and sent me the ARC Catch can installation manual......................... in Japanese Nothings ever easy when you modify a car this much and as per usual as soon as I opened the bonnet problem number 1 was found, the ARC kit fits on top of the standard fan surround - which I don't have Not that it mattered as the can I have has a mount for a G35 and looks nothing like the one in the manual Ian sent Fabrication time A piece of suitable metal - Another Christmas present from Mrs Keyser a bit of welding and I was starting to sort some custom mounts Drill a hole in the origional mounts on the can Bit of sanding and some primer a coat of ............................................ yes GREEN left them to dry Took the right half of the engine bay apart to connect the pipe to the back of the cam cover pipes everywhere Mounts now dry and errrrr mounted Attached to my fan shroud Connect the pipes and all done Jobs a good un That's all folks ...........................

Whisper whisper track whore light bonnet murrmmmer whisper cough cough

Congrats

Keyser - VQ35DE - 2003 - Vortech V2, 3.12 Pulley, Full forged engine build, Tomei pro cams, Head skimmed and ported, Balanced crank, water/meth injection 75 shot NOS Kit etc etc 458WHP / 367lbft Without NOS 503WHP/429lbft WITH NOS

Sounds like you will soon have this one tip top Great project Whats the plans for the bonnet?

Good luck with the hunt

Is to But its made of cheese!

Really?? When?? You didnt fall for that fake moon landing film back in the 60's did you?

He's got me stumped at the moment its losing oil at the same speed it burns petrol if his miles to oil added are right! Engine is dry apart from what appears to be spilt oil on the right hand (as you look at the engine) cam cover, no smell of oil burning off on the zorst manifolds and no sign of it, No oil in the water no water in the oil. But if you can burn a litre of oil in less than 200 miles I'd expect some smoke - took her for a run she is smooth as you like pulls well runs nicely and not a hint of smoke when warmed up - I know the CATs can hide it but I would expect some smoke, my last one with blown pistons was like a fog machine The only thing I could find was oily zorst tips not sooty but oily so as there is no sign of a leak I have to go with rings but definitely want a second opinion!

Blooming foreigners running our forum what's it coming to!!!! Mind you he also represents the international arm of the ZedShed Congrats mate I'm sure you'll be an asset to the team.

Me Me Me You bringing that on Saturday????

Far to stealthy they should be GREEN Looks great mate

1. Martinmac 2. Marzman 3. The Bounty Bar Kid - TRACK 4. Wizard 5. WINKJ 6. Amyzed 7. Keyser - Track

I run the Haltech for 1 main reason - NOS but I also have an UpRev (downside of a piggyback ECU) the problem on my build and UpRev is multimap that can change on the fly - Bit more detail - When my NOS fires the NOS control unit sends a signal to the Haltech to say it's fired the Haltech changes to a different map with more ignition retard and a richer mix. On UpRev you would run with an always retarded map. If the water meth fails you can also use the boost safe output from the water/meth controler to signal the Haltech ECU which can then implement a fuel or ignition cut to stop the engine melting - I don't use this at the moment as I run water only injection - more HP with meth but if I map for meth I can't run without she will be to hot - I may put a bigger tank in and add meth next year. For an SC build on stock internals I would say UpRev is the way ahead for a more complicated build then an alternate ECU can be justified. However if I was starting again now I would not use the Haltech piggyback - I would at least use the Haltech replacement ECU (not available when I started the rebuild) but from my current research and having chatted with both Mark @ Abbey and Jez @ Horsham and having the pleasure of a demo of the awesome traction control in Mark's 350z I would say Syvecs is the way to go, it will do all the bells and whistles will interface to the CAN so you can keep your dash gauges etc has the already mentioned traction control and multimaps from a switch so I for example could have a with meth and without meth map. The S6 wasn't out when I started but I am considering it as a future upgrade! To answer your question - Yes my engine was built and mapped by AEM. Water Meth - Do "I" consider it essential - yes BUT that's because I have a built engine with hi-comp pistons and a skimmed head alongside the SC when you compress air it gets hot - very hot if you are then stupid enough to put high comp pistons into your engine and skim the head (again increasing compression) the air gets so hot it can ignite the fuel before the plug sparks - detonation !!!!! Mine dets at 3,500 RPM under heavy load without the water, meth would further reduce the inlet heat. I went a different route, TT builds mainly and sometimes SC builds will usually reduce the compression ratio when using a built engine, so high boost low compression, as I am using an SC which won't produce the pressure of a turbo without running the jack shaft at destruction speeds! I decided on low boost high compression the trade of is heat solved by water/meth injection. What this means to you is no you do not need it tou will be fine with an FMIC and I'm not aware of anyone else apart from Tony420 (850+ WHP without the NOS TT 350z awesome!! where are you Tony? ) who uses it! I would also give a +1 to what Wizard has said and offer the same words of caution - I started acquiring parts long before they were needed causing two issues 1. When you get delays something better is out before you need it (ECU for example) 2. If/When plans change you end up with a part you have no use for. You can also end up upgrading things for the sake of it the 350z Brembo brakes with the addition of some decent pads are very capable, you can upgrade the disks to get even more out of them so you don't "Need" to stick a BBK on - this doesn't mean the BBK is either useless or not worth the money it just means the only time I get any advantage (other than bragging rights ) is on track - yours I believe is not being built for track. All I'm saying is (like Wizard) be careful, little steps build her up slowly see how each bit goes and add more as required/when funds allow - this is not an invitation for some tool to throw a TT into a JDM and blame me when it won't stop!!!!! Always take my advice with a pinch of salt it is my opinion and all joking aside I don't know everything about a 350 I have been assisted by the forum and got a lot of help and info from Mark, Jez, Dan, R35Lee, ZmanAlex and many others. This is my understanding of the way it works and I may be misinformed (I hope not though )

Dyno run on here http://www.350z-uk.com/topic/52481-project-zee-business-target-achieved-26th-oct/page__st__1300 post 1320 Some track runs on youtube before the new engine was put in will get some more track day vids this year hopefully

No - it's hard to match that green - wait until you try and get some in turquoise

You want a pic I have a spills - but it came on the car I just put some green shrink wrap on the wires - but easy to make yourself

I`d hope to be the last one pulled by the fuzz too With the noise on yours? Anyway I'm so overt it's convert

I shoulda gone to spec savers Try again - P1146 Heated O2 Sensor 2 P1147 Heated O2 Sensor 2 P1166 Heated O2 Sensor 2 P1167 Heated O2 Sensor 2 No but they are all the same sensor so it may be a faulty sensor? - having said that Buster gets them on his Zed every few weeks since fitting the HFC's with spacers - I get them as well but had them disabled in the UPREV but I get loads of warnings my favourite is P0103 Mass or Volume Air Flow Circuit High Input Doesn't seem to like the NOS

P0139 O2 Sensor Circuit Slow Response (Bank 1 Sensor 2) P0159 O2 Sensor Circuit Slow Response (Bank 2 Sensor 2) P0146 O2 Sensor Circuit No Activity Detected (Bank 1 Sensor 3) P0147 O2 Sensor Heater Circuit Malfunction (Bank 1 Sensor 3) P0166 O2 Sensor Circuit No Activity Detected (Bank 2 Sensor 3) P0167 O2 Sensor Heater Circuit Malfunction (Bank 2 Sensor 3) Sounds like the spacers are stopping a reading Does it happen after a long hard run?

Just giving you something to aim at mate I'll take you down the road in her Saturday if it's dry enough see how quick you want to get your SC fitted then