flyboy

Anyone know if these are any good? http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/TOYOSPORTS-NI ... 19c820f40e Advert says they work with oem shocks??? a little strange but maybe a generic description!!

Been looking to do the same. Got vinyl off RT to do the b pillars and front lip. Roof will be next. With limo tint on all rear. Anthracite or black lmgt4s to follow. How easy is it to get off if I change my mind?? anyone removed it yet?

I have to preform surgery to the boot area to get the camping gear in for a week away, Removal of spare, all tools and the poly mouldings from both sides. End up with lots more space, its a pain but worth it to have the zed with us instead of the micra

Well all is good, no problem with the clutch. It must have been me riding it on the bite point on the spirited take off's. Did Wynatt's and Honester passes with a few uphill starts due to idiots who don't give way to the uphill traffic while coasting down. Will probably lower the bite point as my Knee hits the bottom of the wheel when coming off the clutch due to most of my 6'2" being in my legs. This might cure the problem.

Happy Birthday Keith. Have you got those lmgt4's on yet!!!

I'm In ! or We'll find out soon enough!

Hi There, I now have plans to cut these and sell a spacer kit, as the velocity stack project with RTCustomz was such a sucess. Therefore the dxf is no longer up for distibution. Good luck with your project.

My laser cut aluminium one worked fine viewtopic.php?f=25&t=44039

Gates belts in my local motor factor store £8.50 and £13.20 Sometimes things are cheaper than you think. Dont mention the Zed ask for them by part number ie 6pk 1173 from memory for the big one and 4pk 745 ??? for the short one.. Someone will correct these numbers if there wrong. They just refer to the number of vees and the length.

And R2D2 in the boot riding shotgun

Well Iv done all your tests RT and it passed them all. I will risk it and take it away as touring in the Micra just isnt the same. Am looking around for a decent clutch kit just incase.

Better to have tried and failed than to have never tried at all

Family forum remember And that coming from a big boy who wants to get blown!!!!!!!!!!!

That should have been going on Friday not tomorrow. Camping at Castlerigg in Keswick. Planning to do a bit of High Street if its clear as the last 3 times i have been up there its been micro navigating with a compass as visibility has been 10 feet. Hoping to get up Helvelin from patterdale/glenridding via striding and back via swirrel. Plus the old man from hawkshead and maybe great and green gable thrown in with another trip up scarfell pike if the visibility is good, Cant beat the corridor route up for the Views. Could always meet up for a beer somewhere if your up for it! Or get out on the hill together if your so inclined

Had a bit of a clutch pong the other day while taking off a bit rapid from the lights and just thought I must have slipped the clutch at high revs. Happened again today on a spirited change from 2nd to 3rd at about 6k. Apart from this it seems fine no slip when pulling uphill in 3rd and flooring it and nothing when reversing. I am going away tomorrow for 10 days up to the lakes. Should I risk going in the zed or go in the Micra. How do clutches fail in these things slowly or all at once? 42k no idea on clutch history.........

Does this help at all?? http://www.myzroadster.com/Files/tsbs/0 ... 02-123.pdf Seems a tsb is available for USA to fit a switch to their models.

+1 How do you know so much about my personal life?

Its time to sort out the main beam as it really is terrible. I live in the sticks so there are no street lights for 90% of my night-time driving. After last winter I fitted 100w H7 main beam bulbs but they are no better and throw out zero usable light. They seem to point at the sky if anything. Anyway I have looked at upgrading to HID on the main beam but I am aware of the warm up time and poor life if they are flashed on and off repeatably. However the dipped beam also flashes when the lights are flashed so the same is happening to the dipped HID bulbs and they seem to survive. As I don't have a spare £800 for a set of OEM Bi-Xenon I thought I would spend £60 or so on a H7 5000K kit and see what happens. Has anyone else tried this, I have searched the forum but found no one who has. If I go ahead is it worth paying a bit more and trying to fit a projector lens with the HID or even replace the oem single projector with an aftermarket Bi-Xenon unit such as these http://eshop.ktautopart.com/car-hid-projectors/hid-projector-kt-hl3.html What do people think??? Is it worth it or should I just save up and get the real deal.??

Well I have the lights fitted with load resistors fitted to regulate the flash rate. 50W 6Ohm worked fine. At night, dusk or when overcast they look bright and work great. In strong direct sunlight they are not bright enough!. It probably has not helped by putting a tinting film on the lens to match the Smoked JDM LED rear lights, but its not just that. I might try reducing the resistor value to drive the LED's harder or removing the prism effect off the lens, Has anyone any other suggestions?

That would have been mine mate, Great day on Sat taking in Skarfell pike, Via the corridor route then a stroll down to the ferry and across for the airshow on Sunday. Fantastic Red Arrows display as always, sitting on the terrace in Macdonald Hotel for a front row seat with waiter service.

Classic day, made a change from going down to Reading all the time. Saxon were good too and Scorpions blew my socks off!!!! Blackmore's Rainbow wern't as good as at Reading Think he must have had an off day!!!

Here we have a Guide to fitting the FLYBOY 06 Airbox Conversion Kit. 1 Kit Contents New 06 Velocity Stack Insert. Tube of Automotive RTV Silicone New Tie Wrap Pair of Gloves 2 Comparison Between Pre and Post 06 Air Intakes. 3 Direct comparison between original and new Velocity Stack 4 Comparison when assembled 6 Tools Required 7 Undo the screw on the air intake pipe at the throttle body end. 8 Undo the screw at the MAF Sensor end. 9 Undo the M10 bolt in the centre of the pipe. 10 Bolt Removed 11 Ease the pipe out of the way leaving the rubber pipe underneath attached. 12 Undo the Sensor cable plug and cut the cable tie. 13 Bend the cable retainer out of the way and remove the cable from beneath it. 14 Undo the 10mm Bolt RHS of Airbox. 15 Box is nearly free. 16 Remove the plastic popper in the front in the usual way. 17 Ease out the air intake insert to clear the airbox. No need to remove it completely. 18 Grab the intake on both sides and give a firm pull up. Yes I know I've only got one hand on it but the other is on the camera. 19 Airbox out of the car note the position of the rubber sockets underneath for when you put it back. 20 Remove the MAF sensor housing by removing the 4 M10 bolts. Note the orientation of this and the position of the cable retainer for re-assembly. 21 Remove the filter and set asside the MAF sensor housing and bolts. 22 You can now see clearly the bit to be modified, through the air intake hole. 23 Read the instructions on the RTV Silicone and follow them! Apply a small bead of Silicone around the base of the velocity stack. 24 Like this. 25 Now for the awkward bit. Put the Velocity stack inside the airbox intake hole without smearing the silicone everywhere. Practice this a few times and make sure your technique is ok before trying it with the silicone on. 26 My hands are huge and would only go in one way! 27 Insert the VS into the old intake with a 60° twist. 28 New VS in place 29 Wipe out any excess silicone from inside the bore with a paper towel. 30 This is the view through the air intake hole once the VS is in place. Now go put the kettle on, Have a beer, Go for a walk or watch a film and come back in 2 Hours once the silicone has started to cure. 31 Have you waited the 2 hours???? if so reverse the procedure above to put everything back together again, Use the new tie wrap provided. 32 Don't forget the popper! 33 Or to put the filter back into this hole! 34 Job done, I would wait overnight if possible before starting the engine as everything you have done is on the engine side of the air filter. Usual disclaimer, small print, legal stuff etc.. etc.. This is a guide. It shows how I did it. Use your common sense if yours is different. If you are not competent to take your car apart then don't attempt this and take it to someone who is. If you break something then its your fault for breaking it, not mine. Blah, Blah, Yadder, Yadder Etc.Etc.

How much do you think it'd cost if you were to offer it as a kit ? what ballpark cost would we be looking at? Once I have a set in the car Working, and tested, I will look at the price, Until then there's really no point. Ball park. exchange set. It will be in 3 figs not 2.

Gosh, I wish I could pop to China over the weekend