Sam Mcgoo

GAMERTAGS Ekona = Ekona (Dan) Warpedstorm = Will370z (Will) Draggster454 = StevoD Kingmarz = Marzman Sarnie = Sarnie (Liam) Sam McGoo = Sam McGoo (Sam) I should be back on it later in the week.

I used super unleaded in it for the first 6 years, but for the last 2.5 years I've used standard unleaded. I can't notice any difference...... I don't drive it hard so I don't notice any difference in performance. What should I look out for by using standard unleaded? Is there anything I should clean out or replace more often as I use standard fuel? Get the fan as out, as you're about to get flamed. That's about right. It is 'strongly' recommended to use 98ron +. It says it in the owners manual and on the inside of the fuel flap. It's not for performance reasons, its because it is tuned to run on 98 so not running it on 98+ can, and has been known to, lead to engine damage. If you drive it like a granny, never going over 4k rpm then you'll probably be fine, but it's not recommended. It would be advised to return to Super unleaded.

I thought that might have been your set up. Just out of interest, Are you sure your not running the SST box for tuning? It's normally located in the battery compartment. It's just that that;s what normally swtches on your Aux pump when it senses boost. Glad you've got it sorted.

Great stuff and good pics. Very interesting to watch. Who's is the Camero? Very

Good news, glad it was nice and simple for you. This forum is good isn't it?

Ok, so its the original Vortech FMU Item. Do you definitely have a proper Return fuel system with an additional fuel line going back to the tank and the Walbro (255)pump in the tank? Or do you have a walbro 155 fitted inline under the car near your FPR? Most people when fitting a return fuel system ditch the Vortech FMU and fit a proper rising rate FPR. I would check all the the vacuum / boost lines in the system, in particular the ones to the Vortech FMU and the Bypass valve as the ones under the car are prone to splitting and leaking, aslo check for kinks. Its quite likely the FMU isn't receiving the correct boost pressure and therefore not increasing your fuel pressure enough. Check the fuel connections for leaks also.

Welcome to the club.

Welcome to the club

Can you show us a picture of your FPR? Or know what make it is? It's a bit unclear what you have. Most FPR that come with fuel return systems have gauges fitted. Or do you have the big blue one that comes with the vortech kit? Running your car as an na with the cog belt removed shouldn't be a problem as your map will be based around airflow though the MAF so if the sc isn't pushing air past it, it will fuel accordingly . I've done it many times and it drives fine, just like an na.

It does sound like fuel starvation as Darren suggested, this could be caused by quite a few things. Do you not have a fuel pressure gauge on your fuel pressure regulator? If I was you I would check the fuel pressure at idle first and make sure thats ok. I would remove the Vortech Cog belt, so you are essentially running as an N/A and go for a drive and see if it still does it, It should drive fine - you will then know if its boost or S/C related or not. Also, as you suspected your CAI before, I would remove it and put the filter directly onto the S/C inlet for now until you find the issue. With that in mind, is your Air filter clean? Out of interest, has it been wet out when you've been driving?

Lol, did you read the thread?

As said, it will be the brake fluid level. It needs to be on max.

Right, let's have a bit more info.... You say AFR goes off the scale at 4k rpm... In which direction? Rich (low numbers) or lean (high numbers)? What is your tuning and fueling set up? The vortech full kit with inline pump, fmu, stock injectors, split second timing etc or tuner with bigger injectors, return fuel system, stand alone ecu or Uprev ? I assume you've done your seals due to burning oil? Have you cleaned the MAF since?

Nothing wrong with a good snow plough ! It's ok, we know its just a generation thing. Admittedly the second pic isn't too bad, and I know its just a matter of opinion, but on the whole that bumper is horrible. Splitters look great on track cars just look a bit silly when you see a car on the motorway thats all Not really a generation thing, there are plenty older than me on here with bodykits, just a taste thing thats all. I know, was just I'm not 'much' younger than you.

I should also add that I use Mark at Abbey for all my tuning work and am very happy with the results and service I've received there. Mark has also been very helpful to me on the phone/email on quite a few occasions when I've needed advice. I have not had many dealings with Jez at Hdev, I have purchased a few bits from him and was very happy with the service. I have only heard good things about them. At the end of the day, they both give a top class service so its up to you to decide who you want to use. I will be going back to Abbey in the not too distant future for another tune once I've fitted a few more bits.

Na, your right Graham. It appears that the original tune (from Abbey) compared to the new Hdev tune actually had more peak torque and more torque throughout the curve, especially low to mid range. It actually has the same power as well. Although the newer dyno plot shows more peak power, that's just because the revs are held a little higher. If you held the revs to the same point on the first dyno plot and continued the line it would reach the same level. I am in no way saying that the Hdev tune is inferior. If Pete was concerned about detonation and engine longevity then the sensible thing to do is to reduce the low to mid range torque as that's where these engines get damaged. So Jez has done the right thing for Pete with that in mind.

Nothing wrong with a good snow plough ! It's ok, we know its just a generation thing. Admittedly the second pic isn't too bad, and I know its just a matter of opinion, but on the whole that bumper is horrible.

Do you have all other servicing paperwork from when it was new till now? If so, its a little strange you have nothing for the clutch. Maybe it hasn't been done, could have all been motorway miles? I wouldn't worry anyway, if its not slipping its fine.

Welcome and congrats on the purchase.

As has been suggested, it'll almost definitely be dirty or worn sender units. Mine has been doing the same recently, just haven't got round to cleaning them yet.

Welcome to the club.

Good to know.

As Alex said it will vary with gauges and temperature etc... As an example - I have tested my engine twice with a cheapish gauge from a motor factor First about 3 years ago @ 16k miles results were all around 175psi +/- 5psi with a stone cold engine. Second time just a couple of weeks ago @ 31k miles results were all around 215psi +/- 5psi with a hot engine. As long as they are even, all is good.

Love it. Kind of a mix of a MKiv Supra and an LFA.

Yeah, it's more than likely that the HFC are causing it to come on. It is often worse in colder weather/winter. See how often it comes on and see if it seems to be on colder days. You can keep reseting it, you could fit o2 spacers from zmanalex, which makes it happen a lot less. Or you can get a remap and have them turned off. That's all assuming the car is running fine.