Rosssco

The small additional link is just a headlight level sensor. It doesn't have any effect on the operation of the ARB itself. Lowering the tyre pressure should have an effect on traction to an extent, but is really something you can only try out yourself as there's many variables, including the tyre type itself.. Just something worth checking as its quick and easy to do. May have no significant effect what so ever.

It all comes down to what you want from you're car and how you intend to use it. For most who use their car everyday / frequently, but still like to "enjoy" it when the right road appears (like me), the adjustability that coilovers offer is wasted on them, and they'd be better spending on non-adjustable suspension which if properly designed and spec'd, will perform as well as highly adjustable stuff. It will often perform better, as extra adjustment can mean more areas to go wrong if not not done correctly. I wne through a phase of adjustable suspension, and had this constant nagging this wondering if it was set properly, if the ride height was optimal, and if the damping rate was ideal... The reality is that most OEM dampers, in combination with things like bushes, will not perform as the car rolled out the factory, so the suspension will feel compromised to an extent. People then fit new aftermarket components (such as coilover and bushes) and believe they have transformed the car for the better, when in fact installing new OEM components or mildly uprated items would have a similar effect on perception. For a road car, I always found a slightly less focused, but more rounded suspension set of, that sacrificed some of the connection offered by stiff spings and hard dampening control, for a more compliant set up that "flowed" better with our roads. Some of that percieved softness and float is actually compliance and necessary for the road IMO. I hated having to back off on certain road sections because I knew the suspension couldn't cope with it, then being frustrated stuck behind someone on the "good" parts.. Its all very personal of course, and I'm not disagreeing with you chaps on you're liking for coilovers, just my 2p.

Good progress, and project. I was contemplating this the other day, and something like this would appeal to me, but, rather than a kit that offered +400bhp, a basic kit that was easily DIY'able and used much of the original exhaust system, didn't require engine modifications (including drivetrain) and offered a similar performance gain to some of the basic supercharger kits (so perhaps ~380 bhp / 350lb/ft) but very responsive In my mind I had: It would use a smaller turbo unit, with a smaller A/R (something like GT3017R with a 0.63A/R) for improved low end response Use the majority standard 2.5" Y-pipe / mid-pipe, but with decats / HFC's to improve flow but maintain exhaust gas pressure / speed A remote oil system and small oil cooler - Lower operating temperatures of remote mount should be ok Enclosed air filter (some thing like a BMC type) Non-intercooled - the offset of not having the pressure loss associated with an intercooler would mean it could run lower (cooler) boost pressure. Insulating the boost pipework may or may not be a good idea depending on the amount if natural cooling from underbody air flow, but potentially radiated heat from the exhaust / engine / drivetrain.. My understanding is the key to decent response with remote-mounted turbo's is the relationship between pipework (exhaust and boost) and the respective turbo unit. You don't want to go too large diameter which has the effect reducing gas pressure and deceasing response. Somebody tell me if I've went wrong somewhere..

Take it you referring to LSD's Ewen? Yes Ross, we can also supply an FD as well. Oh really...

Take it you referring to LSD's Ewen?

Perhaps you're thinking of the convertable? The rev-up is the same kerb weight. The HR (313) is some ~25kg heavier apparently..

I'm still not sure it has. There is no such thing as a 350Z 300, it's just a term that we as owners use (what is the official term? It's perhaps not an official term from Nissan as I understand it, but with regards to insurance, they are different. Pump you're Rev-up reg number into the MID, and it will say Nissan 350Z (296) Coupe. I'm pretty sure what the dealer has done is access some vehicle registration system, or simply gone by the registration date, and advertised it is a 300 model, none the wiser. Go onto Pistonheads and there are plenty of example of cars advertised as with either '300' or '313' in the title, most of these wouldn't be necessarily from owners, just other traders.. I haven't recieved my V5 yet, so can't state whether it states anything on it..

Cheapest I've seen the 3.9 FD is here. You will need to import it, and account for additional parts and installation (Zmanalex can do it I believe). http://www.thenismoshop.com/Nissan-Final-Drive-Gear-Sets-Ring-and-Pinion--350z-G35_p_69.html Semi-interested myself in the 3.9 FD. Probably a far more cost-effective modification for a road car than remaps, plenum spacer's and HFC's, and slightly surprised its not more popular..

Bought a brand new Fiesta back in the day (when you used to get a years free insurance, ideal when you were 19). My Dad had left it in gear and I started it without putting my foot on the clutch (it was in 1st). Bang into the wall 2 foot in front of me. Done the front end in. It was only 2 weeks old..

I think you're giving J17 too much credit As owners and experts, we can instantly tell the difference. What I'm saying is that J17 haven't anywhere advertised the car as having 300bhp: They've simply stated it's a 350Z 300, which is exactly what it's recorded as on the V5. Those are the facts, and I'm not entirely sure that a court would rule in the OPs favour. I'm playing devil's advocate a bit here somewhat, but I'm also just following things to their logical conclusion a bit too. Would I kick up a stink? Yeah, you're damn right I would, but I'd do it politely at first. Maybe even go back in a bit dumb and just get them to confirm 100% that it's got 300bhp as some people on the internet said it didn't, that kind of thing. You're correct, and agree with you're advised course of action, but no one is saying it should have 300bhp or was advertised as such, but it was advertised as the 350Z 300 model, which is sufficiently different (as is the 313 model) to the previous model to warrant a difference to the DVLA, therefore its been mis-sold. Buying a used car is a minefield as we all know, and the buyer has to know their stuff to an extent, but especially when buying from a dealer (irrespective whether they say they are a specialst or not), I feel some responsibility lies with them.. I would say one thing dealers are usually clued up on (even if it isn't cars) is their rights when it comes to buyer / sellers.

Regardless of price (value is subjective), the car was mis-sold (perhaps inadvertently) as the revised model, when in fact it is a late registerd car. The changes weren't minor (even though they are fundamentally tweaks), so I'd say you are within rights to demand some form of resolution or compensation.

Same tax as a rev-up as it was registered after 01/04/06 Never spotted that.. Balls.

When did you buy the car? If it was recently, you may still have some recourse with the dealer.. You should be £210 cheaper on tax and you've a smidge more torque if that helps..

Super Advans really do confirm that the devil does exist..

For a good balance between noise, cost, reliability, performance, comfortable cruising, fitment and looks, I'd say the standard exhaust is best.

PMd

I think the adjustable droplinks are mainly just for those running lowered ride heights, as this affects the operating angle of the ARB. They don't increase the stiffness of the ARB, although they may change the stiffness relationship front to rear. Standard length droplink are all you need. Yep, the stiffness is adjustable on the aftermarket ARB's. Not sure what settings people go for with Whitelines, but I've read with Eibach's, softest setting on the front, and mid stiffness setting on the rear gives a relatively neutral balance, and that's what I'll try when I get mind fitted. Dead easy to adjust, shouldn't take a garage 10 mins once up on the ramp assuming everthing comes off easy enough..

Try changing the stiffness setting on the Whitelines? Also, perhaps tweak the tyre pressures a little - maybe a few psi less on the rears (i know they change anyway). Nothing ground breaking but these are free tweaks with you're current set-up.. Or, sell the Whitelines (I wouldn't personnally) and add some more cash for either coilover or Bilstein dampers. The dampers alone may actually give you the control you need, but not many seem to use them, so it's a bit of a stab in the dark.. Problem with stiffer ARB's (about the only real problem I see) is that they are more affected by road camber changes, and reduce traction under certain circumstance. May partially explain why they don't feel quite as good on the road as opposed to a track. Of course you will know what roads and what tracks you have been driving to make that assessment..

Sorted

That equivalent to 4.5nm or 3.3 lb/ft, so just tighten them up till they are tight basically (if that makes sense) with a small ratchet.

Payment sent.

As per title. Ideally Azure Blue, but other colours / unpainted are fine. Thanks, Ross

PM'd

Why do you need larger capacity injectors, is you car using F/I?

Give us more info on you're Nur trip, something I've been contemplating myself..