Rosssco

Common???? Now now Jerry!!! Non of the above are common, they only happen really when you mod the car and are not common on an unmodded car!! Dont want to scare new or prospective owners!! OP, o2 Sensor may be where the problem is due to the clank and you have dislodged one of the sensors... Have you got hiflow cats? Also blinking light dosnt always mean a problem, its a warning, solid light is worse adnd shouldnt be driven... Where in the UK are you? If may be that someone in your area has an ODB reader and can pull up a code. There is a way to get the engine light to blink at you to tell you what the code is but that is a real pain in the hole to get it too read! Thanks for the info. Slightly confused now as to whether its safe to drive or not with a steady engine light. I only go a few miles to / from work, and don't have any high speed sections, so think I'll just take it easy until I have something conclusive... My car is completely standard engine-wise, so it can't be modification related. I'm in the center of Aberdeen, so maybe someone local may have a code reader... I know with some cars you can bridge 2 of the pins in the diagnostic port, and it will flash an error code. Unsure if the Z has the same function. I'll book it into a garage in anycase to find out.. Thanks, Ross

Thanks fro the replies Its a steady engine light yeah, and I haven't noticed any ill effects (as yet) and no loss of performance (although of course I went into 'Nun mode' as soon as I saw the light) or strange noises... I was thinking it might be exhaust related, possibly a Lambda sensor or such like... Ross

Just driving back from lunch there, and noticed the orange engine light has come on Now I’m just back from a trip covering 400 miles over 3 days, and the car never missed a beat. However, what under the car might cause this light to come on if damaged? I drove into and reversed out of a steep drive way, and I definitely gave something/s on the underside a good scrape (going by the scores on the tarmac afterwards!!) I guess I need to get it into a garage and have a look at the underside to see if I have damaged anything… Other than that, any other common problems that may cause this, and anything I can check myself? The car is a 53-reg, UK GT, 57k miles… Many Thanks!! Ross

Yeah, was thinking of doing this myself. Let us kknow where you get the correct red bulb from though... (preferably silver bulb that lights red!) Ross

Is this a loud exhaust..? What condition is it in? Any pics? Ross

By thicker and aluminium, is this a negative or a positive? Thicker would be increasing the plenum volume (can be good, can be bad) and aluminium, is the plastic version considered superior (better thermal insulation between plenum halves??) Edit - slight confusion on my part - is this spacer or the Motordyne spacer thicker and aluminum?? Ross

Would the plenum spacer be of any benefit on a standard (276hp) engine do you think..? So the fitting kit is basically - longer bolts, 2x gaskets of the same profile as the spacer, and some plastic (perhaps nylon?) washers..? Thanks, Ross

As I said above, I am fully aware that changing width will probably not increase dry road grip, as its already quite high on the standard widths Tyres wise, currently running Avon ZZ3, which are pretty grippy, certainly in the dry, but seem to have a relatively soft compound, so I don't expect them to last too long... Then maybe look at Falkens, or, if I'm feeling flush at that stage, Pirelli's or Bridgestones... Yeah was thinking they might look 'Over-tyred' with that fat, unattractive sidewall look, hence why I asked. As for driver training, I take your point, but I guess the fun in a new car (only had it 2 weeks) is exploring it for yourself... Maybe at some point! Cheers for replys. Ross

Well I like the look of the standard wheels (plus I can't afford any comparably light 19" wheels) so the obvious (and bluntest) way of increasing grip without modifying the suspension set-up, would be to fit wider section tyres. As I said, I'm not sure how much of a difference this would make in the dry, where good standard tyres will maintain grip up to a pretty high level unless deliberatly provoked. Of course wider tyres are heavier too, but I doubt this would be really noticable. Re: traction stability control, I don't see how this would cause any issues, and I presume the system will detect slip (based upon differences between measured hub speeds and revs) regardless of tyres profile or wheel size, just that in theory there should be less of it (forgetting standing water / aquaplanning and snow). Just wondered if anybody had had direct experience...

In theory, more grip, although I accept that this is probably negligible on dry roads and standard suspension, so I guess also looks... (Vain I know) I don't think 265/40 (or 45), to maintain the standard stagger, are as readily available as 275's...

Hi, A thought running through my head today was if it was realistic to put the rear 245/45/18 tyres on the front wheels, and buy some 275/40/18 (to maintain correct rolling radius) on the rear. However, I'm not sure the standard wheel widths are sufficient (especially the rear wheels) to safely mount 275/40 tyres... Anybody had any experience of this? I also have some 20mm spacers to fit, so then there's the possibility arch rubbing perhaps... Thanks, Ross

Just used this helpful guide to change my plugs there (thanks to author!), and I thought I'd note that the plugs removed from my car were Platinum too, and my car is a 53-reg, UK car, which has just hit 55k miles (so presume no spark plug change previously..?). Perhaps both types are legitimate replacements... Replaced mine with Denso Iridium's of course Ross Ps. - For anybody doing this job, just make sure you have at least a 6" extension available to hand (now now..) as the plugs are located pretty deep.

Hmmm, well if your thinking of selling 3, let me know, as it may be an option for me to get one 'manufactured' at work... Ross

Ehhhh, 3rd... dibs....??? Hey I can at least be hopeful...!

Right, I'm sure I can here the odd 'click' coming from the rear of my newly purchased car (53-plate), and perhaps the odd squeek. Neither particularly bother me TBH, unless of course this is a sign of wear or deterioration that will worsen and affect performance / handling etc. Anybody know if this is the case, or really is just an annoying noise..? My car is in for a P2 service on Monday at a Nissan dealer (Mackie Motors, Arbroath), so I'll quiz them on it when I'm there, as apparently they know the 350Z pretty well (of course they do, they sell Nissans, but you know what I mean.. ) and if it is, might investigate the warranty situation. As I said, cant say it would particularly bother me, but I still would like it fixed if its really an issue... Ross

I know, but don't tell me these things, as I'm trying to resist as I havent even got the car yet and I'm buying bits (hoohum)!! And I still need to sell 2 MR2's... Plus, I'd need to tell my insurance, and can't bothered right now

Hi, I was thinking of a drop in panel filter (along the lines of K&N, Pipercross etc.) more because my car (well, hopefully should be on Saturday ) is due its 54k service, which they replace the air filter anyway, so thinking its a good time to install something with hopefully a bit more noise. I was considering a filter kit that replaces the airbox, but, I do more town / city roads than anything else, and unprotected filter tends to suck in hot air. So any recommendations on these? I realise anything here won't realistically free up any power, but more for the noise really too... Cheers, Ross

Are they? £53.44 on the website currently, but I guess the easter sale is over, and thats still a good price really...

Cheers for all the replies! Going back to look at the car tomorrow, and a wee test drive (need to sort 1 day insurance), and will take it from there... Phoned Mackie Motors who seemed pretty helpful (a guy in work here takes his roadster there, says they are pretty good), and they quoted me ~£420.00 for the 54k service I need - Thats a P2 service (£230) + spark plugs, which on its own is a near £200 job all in... I will of course factor this cost in if coming to an arrangement with the seller.. If I do go ahead, I'd definately be up for a meet on the 26th.! Was having a look at the photos there, and Aberdeen seems to be pretty well represented (I'll try get the other guy from my work to come along in his blue roadster) Thanks, Ross

Hi Folks, I'm new here Looking at a 350Z for sale in Aberdeen, but its milage is currently at 55,000, and is therefore due it a P2 and cambelt change etc. (according to the manual). Does anybody have any recommendations for garages in which to get this work carried out? I believe Evans Halshaw are the 'local' Nissan dealer, but as the car is currently out of warrenty (53-plate) is it worth going else where? Any ideas of cots for this type of service interval / cambelt work? Many Thanks in advance! Cheers, Ross