Rosssco

^ This.......chucking 2k at the car there mate. I suspect attempting to sell the car with those things needed will knock a significant amount off the market value (what ever that is) - would you buy one needing new tyres, clutch, leaking exhaust and no MoT..?

Was just going to post something similar - 90% opinion on this thread, rather than fact. But of course, it's opinions that makes choices more often than not, rather than facts... Ultimately, you're comparing a car that was £25k new, with a £40k new car. Used values price a Z4M at roughly twice the price of an equivalent age / mileage 350Z. I, like others, done a similar comparison not long before I bought my most recent Datsun. The conclusion I came to was that the Datsun was significantly cheaper on purchase price and running costs, and did pretty much everything the BMW did (plus I have this reverse-badge snobbery thing which puts me off "premium" brands) I argue that the average punter will be able to pilot a decent 350Z down a road (and most tracks) every bit as quick as a Z4M, as the power / weight advantage is partly nullified by the peaky power delivery of the Z4M engine. Not to say it's not a fantastic engine (more characterful and enjoyable than the Nissan engine undoubtedly), but very few will get the best out of it assuming not all roads are straight and speed limits apply.. Interesting that many of the reviews by relatively well respected motoring journo's / magazines felt the Z4M was incomplete from the perspective of vehicle dynamics, being set-up for smoother, continental asphalt, and consequently ran out of answers on some British roads. http://www.pistonhea...sp?c=52&i=26310 Didnt rate that PH review really, nothing really objective from a testing perspective for most of it. For every bad review there seems to be a good one: http://www.evo.co.uk...614/bmw_z4.html http://www.carmagazi...BMW-Z4-M-Coupe/ Funny thing is you can find reviews of the 350z that are equally as poor as the above PH one where they complain about the handling or the below average interior. Clarkson did nothing but whinge about it, but then again who listens to him. A lot comes back to the fact that the 350z is a cheap way to get into sports car ownership with a reasonably reliable car with average running costs vs most alternatives. I'm not disagreeing with you, or stating that it was in any way a bad car, just the fact that it's not quite the finished article and not as well suited to our roads as it could be. The CH view (not review) is just stating his opinions on the car as a slightly missed opportunity for what could have been a true great. I previously wondered if there was an aftermarket suspension kit that would improve the Z4M's supposed dynamic issues for our roads..? Another couple of reviews that are worth a chew over: http://www.evo.co.uk/carreviews/cargrouptests/209894/bmw_z4_v_nissan_350z.html http://www.evo.co.uk/carreviews/cargrouptests/203152/bmw_z4_m_coupe_v_porsche_cayman_s_v_nissan_350z_gts_concept.html

Was just going to post something similar - 90% opinion on this thread, rather than fact. But of course, it's opinions that makes choices more often than not, rather than facts... Ultimately, you're comparing a car that was £25k new, with a £40k new car. Used values price a Z4M at roughly twice the price of an equivalent age / mileage 350Z. I, like others, done a similar comparison not long before I bought my most recent Datsun. The conclusion I came to was that the Datsun was significantly cheaper on purchase price and running costs, and did pretty much everything the BMW did (plus I have this reverse-badge snobbery thing which puts me off "premium" brands) I argue that the average punter will be able to pilot a decent 350Z down a road (and most tracks) every bit as quick as a Z4M, as the power / weight advantage is partly nullified by the peaky power delivery of the Z4M engine. Not to say it's not a fantastic engine (more characterful and enjoyable than the Nissan engine undoubtedly), but very few will get the best out of it assuming not all roads are straight and speed limits apply.. Interesting that many of the reviews by relatively well respected motoring journo's / magazines felt the Z4M was incomplete from the perspective of vehicle dynamics, being set-up for smoother, continental asphalt, and consequently ran out of answers on some British roads. http://www.pistonheads.com/doc.asp?c=52&i=26310

Same. Softest front / middle rear.

Only driven it to work, but so far it appears they do exactly what they say on the tin.. Car sits nice and flat through the few roundabouts and bends.

Well looks like the do fit after a bit if persuasion.. The brackets bent into place once the bolts were torqued up. Didn't look like they would but seems ok after a test drive. Cheers

Nope. The ARBs are very different thicknesses, so you'd notice a mile off in that case...

It's probably something I've done wrong, so will need to re check tomo. The bushes came in with the ARB bit, not separately, so surprised if they are wrong.. Cheers for the responses.

Well, there have been many, lets just say... But the current one is regarding the bushes supplied with them. When installing the rear ARB, I note that the bush carrier will not reach the subframe, as the bush is thicker than the original bush. Do people install spacers / washers to take up the difference? I don't think I'm comfortable leaving such a large gap between the carrier and the subframe...

This. Or if you want invest more and can do mechanical stuff yourself, find one with a broken engine (not hard!) and swap in a 189bhp 2ZZGE engine and short ratio 6-speed gearbox (fairly straight forward for an engine conversion POV) and you'll have the straight line power to match the handling..

Nice work on the oil circuit. Is this going in the spare wheel well or under the car? Was there not an off the shelf tank suitable (maybe you answered that above, sorry)

Its not just a "head-turner", its a "REAL HEAD & NECKTURNER"... Assuming neck-turning ability on comes with the GT pack?

Yep, I felt the difference once I put new banana arms on that currently don't have the superpro bushes in them (need to get it done). The steering feels slack compared to before Interested in this also. Granted for some the change will feel a significant improvement in moving from tired bushes to new, and for a road car polybushed complete suspension can feel unnessesarily harsh (ulthough undoubtedly improves feel and response), but I appreciate small details changes like this that can have a significant, positive affect on how the car feels (increased sportiness!). My banana arms are relatively new, replaced by the previous owner, so assuming the bushes are currently ok, however, Ill consider this one for the future. Likewise the polybushed diff.

On most other cars I've changed springs on, the top mount is "keyed" to the top of the damper piston rod (ususally just flat sided), such that when in place properly, the top mount will stop the piston rod from rotating. Are these different? I wouldn't recommend anything more than trying to grip the damper piston rid by hand. Anymore and you risk damaging the external coating, and subsequently the seals as it is compressed in tot he damper body.

This looks nice and pretty much meets you're spec: http://www.pistonheads.com/classifieds/used-cars/nissan/350z/price-lowered-nissan-350-z-v6-gt-313-hr-engine-07--upgrades/2224132 The suspension is easily replacable, as are the wheel spacers (make some cash back), and you have a virtually standard car..

So for an otherwise standard car (Rev-up), you'd be restricted so around ~400bhp / 380lb/ft (conrods being the initial restriction), and presume an uprated clutch and larger diameter exhaust system (inc. decats) would be required also? I presume an Up-rev map could accomodate this set-up with the standard ECU, and be potentially superior?

Most petrol nowadays (such as V-power) already contains additives that help prevent build up of deposits. So it won't do any harm, but unlikely to do any good.. As above, if you want to insure that are working correctly, only way is to have them professionally cleaned and tested.

Aye, where do you get these? I was having a Google the other day trying to find the correct bulb spec of Rev-up headlights. I believe the Philips version are the once to have..

Glad this came to an amicable resolution. Just browsing and I spotted this. Similar thing but Rev-up to HR.. http://www.pistonheads.com/classifieds/used-cars/nissan/350z/nissan-350-z-3-5-v6-313-gt-3dr-fully-loaded-1-previous-owner/2205599

The only semi-decent review I've seen of them on US forums is this one.. http://my350z.com/forum/brakes-and-suspension/584208-bilstein-shocks-swift-spec-r-springs-review.html

This is a good thread! Another owners forum I used to frequent consistantly descended in bickering whenever suspension set-ups were mentioned - there was always a bigger ego! Just re-reading the first page, where it's all pretty much said TBH. DT does say he likes the standard suspension, but is after more control in roll, as it's still a car used for it's GT-ness so OEM suspension works fine.. You are not interested in reducing ride height, like the suppleness of the standard springs, and probably won't worry too much about playing with the damping adjustment, in which case it makes no sense to go for coilovers... So the ARB's, although perhaps not optimised and needing some minor suspension tweaks, are probably the right choice. It's easy to say try this / try that, but if you can't install and replace these things readily yourself, the cost and hassle becomes significant. You maybe just the geo looked at, and as above, perhaps some toe or camber adjustment. The next step (if you felt you needed it)would likely be stiffer dampers like Bilsteins (sounds like I sell them ) for improved damper control. I read on here from someone who tried them, and they seem to feel they do not negatively affect the ride quality to any significant degree. I might actually have a pair of OEM Rev-up ARB's available once I fit my Eibach's, but I'd question these being much of an upgrade TBH... 17% on a spring rate is about noticable, but on an ARB its a relatively small amount..

Installation and set-up pics here: http://www.350z-uk.com/topic/27793-d1-spec-throttle-controller/page__st__240

PM coming Re: cargo net

My advice is still that ARB's arent going to make a lot of difference as the Zed doesnt roll much to start with, its problem is that its too soft and too heavy so damping therefore has to be the first thing you look at. Experience also tells me that with the right coils and the right setup bumpy roads are just as easy to smash down at speed as on shocks and springs, and a lot easier than with the OE cheese string suspension as well. I agree with this, but my view (not having experience of different 350Z set-ups) is that this could be accomplished by a good set of dampers (such as the previous mention Bilstein B6 or B8, which are set-up / valved to work with standard or lowered spring respectively) rather than coilovers for a road car. Dynamic Turtle sounds like he will use his car partly on track, so may make use of the flexibility offered by adjustable dampers. I haven't fitted my Eibach ARB's as yet, so can't comment on them, but I feel there is definately room for improvement with respect to roll-resistance. Whether this roll resistance is matched by the damper performance on 50k mile dampers is another matter! If not, they will be up far sale soon Of course going too stiff on ARB's withut commensurate upgrades has negatives just as stiff springs and poor damping performance does.

Welcome. Looks lovely. I saw that car advertised just after I bought my own Azure Zed.. I was half tempted at the time to message the guy to see if he wanted a bonnet trade for a standard bonnet with cash his way Ross