GT4 Zed

Incredible it happened then the end is just even more unlikely

Congratulations for a wonder goal sarnie Sorry about the arm Get well soon champ

I got about 2hrs of vids with my HD bullet cam but i can't find the USB cable to download it into my PC . then i will have to edit it and host on youtube or photobucket. I have playedback the whole thing on my TV screen and ithe onboard shots are good though voiced over by my K1 but my attempts at a grid walk at the Sportman's arm is a bit wonky Hopefully i will find/get it sorted over this long weekend or buy a card reader

yep An invite over for a BBQ and beers will do the trick with me...... where are you abouts?

Take a breather and go at it when you are calmer and less you must be putting it back wrong for it not to go in or something is sliding in the way FYI: The top of the console should slide and hook itself to the dash trim after you have connect the gauges clips at the back, then the rest should fall in place and bolted securely

Yep actually 24 is the limit as they come 30mm new The traders here will sort you out cheaper than anywhere. you can keep you cost down by going for oem style non grooved rotors and redstuff which may be the cheapest decent combo for tyhe zed. But you can actually do all these you sell and save yourself the labour cost Its not too hard and if you have basic tools and some good mates it will be a few hours all sorted

if it's dry make sure they dont have thread Anders you are really How does he drive back home with illegal tyres?

you are right there Thmas that is not particularly hard on brakes but when you are pushing on, doing back to back laps and the considering that each lap is almost 14miles you need it to endure the fading so you have optimum performance each time and i found that the only way is to know the track really well and brake efficiently because even with the biggest brakes in the world you can cook them quikly if you just sit on them I am surprise you found the games laps helpful. for me the youtube laps were wonderful and reallistic. And yes you write up was very good

To mirror what Andlid said earlier and many others previously the standard fluid will be fine if you drive and do the stuff covers above. But as you have already got uprated rotors and pads you may as well change the fluid and the lines for a more uniform upgrade as its not hard to do or cost an arm or leg. someone is selling some helines cheap Silkolene is very good and so are all the top brands covered by opie. i use motul for all my fluids from engine oil to coolant because they rebranded/used by for Nismo in racing. however the most important thing is to refesh everything especially if you are close to you scheduled service as it means your care will run optimally. don't forget tyres are as important as all the other stuff so make sure they have loads of thread left.

Very well done Thomas I am so happy for you and you finally took the plunge. Its you hooked from now It was important you took your time going round the first time so you can appreciate the beauty and feel of history of the place. from here on it will be faster and faster upto you hit your talent limit or cars limit if you are lucky I should have been comming tonight to take advantage of the long bank oliday but there are too many other stuff that i have to address so i would be looking doing the next 4 months end(july -October) so we may plan something It is to early for you to assess your brakes but they look quite dusty before you went in Thanks for the open invite from you and Gaz

I went to pick it up last Saturday but the post office wouldn't accept the insurance confirmation printout as valid insurance so I had to wait for it to show as insured online or wait for the certificates to come through. Going again this Saturday armed with road tax then

Are you ever going to get it back? its been ages in "repairs"

Surely you could have got the TT for less (? £10-12K) as the HR has more stronger internals so just a few things need replacement with forged parts But i can see were you are comming from as i can't justify SC'ing my zed either when its going next year Very good choice on the VXR and the right colour and starting mods make it a bonus. Someone is going to have fun

Many factors to consider -how deep? -is it a puncture? -how much thread left -what brand? if its a puncture then its unrepairable by law peroid If there is loads of thread eg 6mm and above and its not deeper than 4mm then its fine The brand is only there for further assurance as an ultra high quality tyre will be safer than budget and will influence keeping it if the above is condition is ok. Any doubt then get a new one

hmm.. I thought my Yellow was 134... maybe it was 136... I will have to check now

That would be expensive

slow response Steve/martin you are too quick

Regular dot 4 fluid just as with the regular brake set up (ie standard brembo, pads rotors non braided lines) will be ok for the ordinary trackday. they should be able to withstand a couple of laps at a time depending on the braking demands and how you use it after which you start to witness "lenghtenning of the brake peda"l ie brade fade at which point you should come in to get it to cool down. once cooled they should perform as before unless you boiled the fluid which means you stayed to long on track or sit to much on the brakes The only precaution to take is to work around a nice safe schedule. eg 4-5 laps stints depending on the track lenght consisting of: - an out lap - 2-3 hot laps - finally a cooling down lap Then let the car cool in the paddocks. Check all fluid levels, tyres, and brakes. Leave the bonnet open to prevent engine heat soak and never leave on the hand brakes Use this break to think of ways to improve you driving and braking efficiency. Go back on for more when all is cooled down(15-30mins) . If you continue to do trackdays often and become better then that is when you should consider investing on brake upgrade. There are many ways to do this and i have a post where i have outlined it in 4 stages to aid planing.

Alot of ijits think the 350 stands for bhp and i never argue when they suggest that

Could someone put the car out of its misery Buy it scrap it for spares or get those hideous body kits off it! As mentioned with those off and replaced with the right stuff or OEM you got yourelf a bargain

Lovely Matt we likey very much! Use the IMG code to share the pics directly in future mate

Voted for the 3rd time now Marky. I will have to get the clutch kit when you win c'mon pips lets keep the votes rolling for this fella

Pistomheads is a good spot to search if nothing here catches ur fancy at the mo Adraink's car was recently FS don't know if its gone but that was a sweet and well modded ride Goodluck.

Cheers for the advice. I will try this sometime I have resorted to leaving the bungs out log ago due to the headaches of pulling them out Strangly, I got 103Db without bungs and just y-pipe and OEM airbox and MREV2/spacer but 99Db with Berk HFC, y-pipe, MD plenum spacer and AEM intake (But this set up was raspy as hell and seemed louder)