GT4 Zed

That is not a reason mate just anecdotal evidence and based on a bike ABS on its own prevents locking wheels under hard braking so you have control since a skidding wheel does eff all and this is a proven fact and has been used for decades successfully As such apart from improving braking control it reduces stopping distance. But i agree that this does not work on all surfaces eg gravel and ice but on the usual tarmac dry or wet it works. The issue is that modern ABS is linked with EBD,TCS, ESP, ASR, CBC or whatever accroym they come up with which electronically control the front-to-rear brake bias etc by usage of sensors on the wheels, steering wheel, brakes hydraulics, gyroscopic sensors etc and all under ECU control. These advanced systems are what we percieve as a hindrance sometimes when the ECU cuts in power or assist braking in anyway to prevent loss of control. But in this case unhelpful to you the driver assuming you know what you are doing even on track or on the road Personally, I would prefer a system like a switchdial which decreases electronic control in steps until all control is to the driver. eg race logic is decent aftermarket sytem.But such systems are expensive as OEM and will only be found in more expensive cars. The ESP button on the zed when pressed off reduces some electronic control but pure ABS remains and i have had no issues with this except in a few corners where you feel interuption but for a second or so. Even with the ESP on it hardly comes on if you are driving properly eg braking in straight line , using the right speed/ gear for a given corner, smooth steering inputs and together with good tires, right pressures and decent brakes etc:P The guide that my chap posted is the next best thing as it cuts off all electronic control except ABS. Carbon Forza guide is more extreme and cuts everything as far as i understand and i think that is plain dangerous even on track and even you are blessed with car control. Race cars can afford to do away with most sytems because they have better braking, handling, grip and aero and yet most racing drivers will prefer to have some sort of assistance but one that can be modulated to your style, track or conditions

Its behing the center console when you remove the whole unit. There full guide with pics is in www.notre350.com and this chap's user name is Taurim. I registered so i could copy the guide with pics but was unable to do it for some tech reason and I have since lost access due to inactivity You may be luckier than me if you are IT savvy;)

Congratulations But

Very nice +1 on lowering and a subtle body kit to make this pop You may get away with the need for rolling the arch for now because the vreds are round shouldered unlike the square shoulders of MPS 2s

It depends Has this been a trend? when did you last check it? Have you check where the car was parked for signs of leak? The common area is at the connections to the PS cooler which is on the passenger side of the bumper. If there is no obvious leaks then it would most likely be trickling from the any of the joints in the PS system. You will have to inspect from the underside. To top up you need the OEM ATF fluid which is a dexron II i believe or you drain the whole thing a fill up with fresh Dexron II or III fluid eg Motul etc. It will be Ok to drive reasonably before you get to change it but if it starts whirring away or jerk o0r become heavy then its too loo or the is air in the system which means its no longer safe to continue

+1 and

Did you check how much cheaper do the wheels work out there?

Why would you want to disable ABS anyway in does not interfere with track work Its the TC/ESP you want to fully disable to get predictable control or am i wrong? I posted this way back on how to disable ESP and i know this chap well and he is qualified to give feedback. He does a consistent 08:10 BTG on the Ring. To totally cut the ESP, I added a switch to cut the ground wire on the yaw sensor harness. As soon as i push the switch, the 2 ESP indicators on the dashboard indicate a default and the ESP is totally off.ABS remains active. When you cut the power with the key and turn it back on you have the ESP back. I installed the switch in the little glove box in the center console behind the gear stick. http://www.notre350z.com/forum/files/up ... sp-off.jpg The thing with the red button is a LANC remote to trigger my video recorder installed in the glove box behind the passenger seat. So it's invisible for the ring marshalls :-) I dont remember the color of the ground wire (white and green ?...) but you can easily find it with an ohm-meter : 0 ohm with the chassis. Some prefer to cut the power wire (orange, N°3 on the plug).

Give these guys a call. I and Nurrish have both used them and they are good, fast and cheaper than other places i had quotes from. But importantly they have experience in this area and get commisioned to do OEM work in the automotive industry.

1. remove pipe work on T/B yes 2. Unplug sensor (i guess being electric there's one) yes3. Undo the 4 bolts (opposites i take it when undoing) yes 4. Remove yes 5. Clean with throttle cleaning (any other cleaners that car be used?) yes. i use white spirit and a paint brush to shake up the oily crud. longterm solution is to put an oil catch can to stop the blow-by messing the TB again 6. Replace (do you all use new gaskets?) Possibly a good practice but I have'nt ever had to 7. reconnect sensors and pipework yes 8. Start the car (?) or do you do a reset. Reset first 9. How the feck do you do a reset? see below or search again lazy There are guides from 350z tech wiki linked here covering lots of subjects including resets. I found one from Motodyneengineering too and I've always used this for no reason in particular. Which ever you use timing is critical for it to work! see page 9 of PDf doc http://www.motordyneengineering.com/manual.pdf If that link fails then go via this and click on the PDF doc then proceed to page 9 http://www.motordyneengineering.com/pag ... 47115c1708 P.S whats wrong with the good old fashioned cable throttle.. You probably have better control from the ECU point of view with resulting in more accurate fuel/air control but the downside is lag and les than 100% throttle openning..............D1 controller will cure the first and Uprev reflash the second.

Its always the balance between unsprung weight and wider contact patch with wider wheels. You should ideally only go wider and bigger if its lighter In this respect the OEM Rays are hard to beat Posting up this techie Spiel for fun : "The effect of ligther wheels on a car is much more than the static weight saving. The moment of inertia calculation is based on the ratio of the mass multiplied by the square of the radius, meaning that as the diameter of the wheel increases then the greater the energy consumption of increased weight becomes. The effect lighter wheels when fitted reduces this gyroscope effect of the wheel and this gives: -Improved acceleration and braking -Lighter, sharper steering, gives better feel and more responsive handling -Allows for softer damper settings giving more tyre contact & therefore better grip -Tire temperatures and pressures are more stable -Improved wheel & tire balancing -Reduced Fuel consumption Reducing the Un-sprung Mass can be quantified using a factor of six. This means that to achieve the same performance gain by reducing the body mass, it is necessary to remove six times the wheel weight saving. Eg. A saving of 2Kg Per Wheel x 4 Wheels = Removing 48 Kg from the Bodywork."

Good Job But before you settle down to some beers waiting for the match to start drive round the block to clean the brakes of surface rust. It will be perfect then

not impressed with france performance, guess will now have to support the next french speaking country, come on Algeria !!!!! The draw was what we needed! I hope we don't f--k it up now! Please DJ be strong

should have said in the first place. Good point of warning Chris but this is not a failure of the Hel line but rather oversight by an unexperienced fitter. Should also add that lines feel slightly long too but I have fitted these twice now on members here with no issues. To get a rub-free fit you should use the higher OEM point on the strut and a zip tie and it takes up all the slack 1 continuous line has definate mechanical and reliability advantage as you rightly pointed and the are both braided SS. Only OEM is rubber. You also have a choice of many colour finishes or CF effect with HEL and no am not on commision MWtech here is doing them for £58 now

HEL is braided steel just like Goodrige and has no reported issues here on anywhere i heard off so they will be fine. Must be brand popularity or establishment which puts Goodridge infront. Get some uprated racing brake fluid eg Motul RBF600 or 660 while you are at it Traders here will get you discounts on al these

That is another example of how bad the nissan mechanics are if the rear pads +/- discs are worn badly they should have spotted it and adviced you Anyway, if they said full replacement it means both items are worn beyond the limit Usually if a pad has been worn down to metal for some time it tends to grind down the disc badly. £600 is for the usual ridiculously overpriced OEM parts and Nissan labour Speak to the traders on here and they can get you good deals on aftermarket replacements that are usually more performant. You can fit these yourself or get it fitted by a trader fitter or local garage. Also check the front axles sametime as you will get a better deal longterm doing all 4 corners

Wether its droplinks or ARBs you had replaced it has nothing to do with your brakes so if there is this noise from braking it will have to do with them not fitting stuff properly. you don't need to take brakes off when doing this job anyway so its Take it back to the stealers or if you are mechanically apt and keen then check it out yourself.

Even better shoot:clap: shes something Need to tidy the numberplate malarky

nope it will not fit Bhav, its a waste of time to polish. First you don't see it, secondly when it goes through a heat cycle it will look exactly like that again

Thats cheap!! Who did this for you? Are you sure that is just for the upper weather strip? I was quoted just over £200 per side Checked Nissan USA for comparison then and they went for $140($160 now) but their shipping cost is crazy so i am putting up with the wind noise for now. Item 5 on the diagram: http://www.trademotion.com/partlocator/index.cfm?action=getJointLocator&siteid=214252&chapter=&Sectionids=0,3263&groupid=51892&subgroupid=4667&componentid=0&make=25&model=350z%20Coupe&year=2005&graphicID=3714330&callout=5&catalogid=2&displayCatalogid=0

Instant ban and possible jail sentence irrelevance

Its a real shame as they have decent products and with a bit more R&D or rather finishing would be value for money The team's action are justified

1-Greekman 282.7WHP - VQ35HR 2-Mr Lizard 278WHP - VQ35DE revup 3-Dcash 274.4WHP - VQ35DE JDM 4-3FIDDY 272.2WHP - VQ35DE 5-GT4 Zed 270.1WHP - VQ35DE revup 6-Andlid 265.4 WHP - VQ35DE 7-Jcor 263.8WHP - VQ35HR (no mods) 8-Clazba 262WHP - VQ35DE JDM 9-Rich5259 257.8WHP -VQ35DE (No mods) 10-rdsprint 252.5 - VQ35DE revup (no mods) 11-IanS16 251.9WHP - VQ35DE JDM 12-Lincolnbagie 250WHP -VQ35DE 13-Pingu2 249.3 - VQ35DE 14-Ian 246.5WHP - VQ35DE 15-Toon Chris 242.3WHP - VQ35DE 16-Ekona 242WHP - VQ35DE revup *Post up your graphs in the dyno thread(Performance) if you want to get on this list for fun

Paul, are you splitting these? I need rear toe arms at some point but i could consider the rear camber arms too to match the pair if the the price is right Will just need to sell off my Eibach camber arm.