GT4 Zed

Happy 26th birthday young buck Do have loads of fun and

Very good choice replacement for OEM size rotors I have PF 01 race pads on my BBk and they have montrous stopping power and fade resistance...just very dusty cough cough Its not very clear from the pics if you changed the pads too, but hope i you did not postpone that too . Lines and fluid change will be a doodle once you get the car up to the ramp

Rich, you are 10x the man you were before in my eyes for contemplating such actions but its the right thing mate However just like others have voiced, i would stay clear of any performance car and get a decent youngish and cheap car to run/insure/fuel/service etc to get the books in order and then bounce back later or sacrifice a few things now to keep the zed, because its not always cheap to swap cars as it may seem. So do your home work. Note you will be in a greater position of strenght if the car is HPI clear or weakenned if not as PX will try to rape you I hope you hang in there until the breeze blows over

No chance with sidewall damage. Its the most vunerable part of a tyre Change the other side if its <6mm( ie the difference should not exceed 2mm- new tyres are 8mm) may stretch to 5mm-5.5mm. If you buy two new ones then you have a spare for any eventuality Invest in alloygators or learn how to drive

But that would be for the manufacture (ie durability of welds/anti-corrosion etc) as you cannot warrant the metal substrate catalyst themselves since with use they become inactive. Well constructed cats with the right grade of steel will outlast the substrate so a lifetime warranty is pretty pointless Thats why 2 years seems to be usual warranty for premature failure of the catalyst from Berk and all the big brands

NO It clearly states Magnaflow I would'nt hesitate buying these if it comes with warranty at least 2 years because its the same 200cell construct like the Berk and Magnaflow has alot of experience. Otherwise give Chilli a call for Berks I hope you also understand that HFCs or decats without remapping or piggyback ecu support makes no gains except noise

8K Dave Is that miles covered or mods

That sounds more like it now i'm so jealous i would try and hop in with a ride in wales to feel the difference. What do you have for wheels/tyres combo. I've got 19" with 265/19 front and 295/19 MPS which were awesome on track but scary in snow or heavy rain due to the large contact patch. I just dream of what Advan A048 or R888 etc in these sizes will be like to drive

I think steveW touched the salient points here: The issue with paints stems from the enforced use of water-based piant now and its an issue not only with Nissan but cars in general when this paints was introduced. The 370 has better paint and you can get the self healing paint AFAIK. Just like Nissan stepped up their game with it. I think as a general rule its a good idea to ask for solutions or be constructive in a forum rather berating the star attraction, so he deserved the response he got A bit of elbow grease and TLC goes a long way to keep the car looking but i for one bought the zed for its performance and handling and don't really care if its has the worse swirl marks in the forum etc Its a mans car

Before i bought Berks HFC I looked into getting custom ones made with 100cell metal substrate and could never get enough interest for a GB I would have come with 2years waranty and cost about £350-390 at GB prices but £450 for a one off at a time when Berks was going for £490 I'll be surprised if you get any interest too now

That is good going greekman I'm a bit surprised at the RLTC comment as i've read only good things about it and years ago drove an M3(E46) with this and found it to be a revelation. It is possible that because you have changed so many things at once it is difficult to appreciate what is what and possibly the LSD is interfering with it The Nismo LSD is a clutch type not TORSEN type FYI. I'm also a bit surprised about the racket its making and some of the things you are describing are I agree it may be noisy as its mechanical and the right oil may quieten it a bit but you should'nt be experiencing hopping or shuddering etc Atleast the oil change should show a clean oil without schrapnel or excessive bits if not it will suggest something is not fitted right! Anycase If i were you i will reset the torque at the lowest setting and go from there at the sametime. I will do some research too You also should bear in mind that you now have stiffer bushings, probably stiffer a suspension setup including the ARB etc so might be worth slacking a notch or so as too stiff is equally bad as i found out.....made the rear jumpy and very skitish even on track I struggled as I changed ARBs, droplinks, camber and toe arms, 3 way coilies and wider tyres all at the sametime and with despite what i considered a good fast road/track geometry set up It was a big jump from just having only height adjustable coilies with preset rebound and though all the changes i made where sound individually on paper it did not work well. Ony by restarting afresh with minute changes at a time to each component that i have got the car to where i want it and its now apparrent that i need stiffer bushes and mounts to make the suspension work even better. After this would i consider an LSD though i feel keeping the oem VLSD with RLTC would adequate and advantageous to have, as you get control over the factory TC and can switch the damn thing off if needed. the other thing that i am yet to try is to use R compound tyres like the R888 or advan A048 which allows you to run a more aggressive set up for track but it all becomes to much hassle. Out of interest did you get the Advance ME RLTC or an standard item from RL? Do keep the feedback comming Goodluck cheers

and congratulations!

Very strong showing guys Very clean and amazing zeds..................it always beats me how some people manage to keep especially the wheels spotless at the meets Do you bring your own water or just dry clean or what?

Happy birthday James What Rich meant was you look more mature

:welcome and congrats. looks mint

X 1000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000

Just trying to help you out ol' chap........call it a gift See me in Wales for your packet

That was a real scare Anders I thought you were suggesting he had gone F%*kin Impotent(FI) :lol:

These cracked me up http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D3SIpKtty1I

Ok stubborn pup i will see you tomoro' Do you want to come to a nice spicy african BBQ? Its no problem if you came.

:lol: only have to wait until wales Thats a long wait and i hate surprises If you don't pm me details then i will stop by yours tomoro' as i have to pop in coventry for a barbie at my cousins

and congratulations You may well regret this decision in the wet months with the roof up all the time So make sure you enjoy to the max now!

What is this look anyway Pm some pics or details i will keep schtoom until you a ready to reveal Just inquisitive!

theres a big section on the differences between brembo and non brembo and it cites the difference between the two as being a difference in levels of brake fade. I can see that you have still not given up on brakes mate I never had any feedback from those guys about the 345mm x 30mm rotors but it comes from the cardillac CTS i believe.

sorry chris, i was just doing my reading on front to back brake balance when i came across it, was only the data i was really bothered about was surprised about the 1 foot difference between brembos and standard Saw this too when i was researching before i bought my k-sport However though it was a good test it does not tell the whole story because on track the Brembo is better than the JDM stuff by quite a bit just like a BBK has better resistance to fade than the Brembo thus outperforms it on repeated and aggressive usage. The balance is important and this is why the companies that make both front and rear kits who have research their products have matched packages for each car application and are able to advice what kit is best for your application For example in my case I wanted to have 356mm x 30mm rotors both front and rear and so to keep the balance and OEM bias i had to go 8pot vs 6pot and its spot on.