Daryl

A fellow Zed owner and friend from work has a Cobra, and to look at, you would be hard pressed to see the difference to the standard one, however sounds so much better. I have a Scorpion, which i love, and also like the look of, as it looks mean as. Sounds a little different to the Cobra, but either is a great choice on a budget,just depends what look you want. You will be amazed the difference it makes, the engine sounds so much cleaner and clearer. Its almost as if Nissan made the standard exhaust out of monkey metal, so people would have to upgrade it.

Well this time last week, i was sat in A+E, now things seem to be abit brighter. The car is now going through the insurance, as it was becoming increasingly clear i wasnt going to find an Azure door, and with an Excess of £250, it was a no brainer. I had a check up with a doctor earlier, and he was happy with the progress of both wounds, though im keeping the stitches in for another week. The nurses have removed the steristrips, and cleaned up all the dried blood around the wound, so i can actually see the result. Looks pretty good, though the back of my leg around the joint is black with bruising, but that will go. I can bend my leg some more now, though not too much, as i fear il rip a stitch out, and the bruising is stopping me somewhat too. However, im in a much better state now, than I was, and I have to say the NHS have been brilliant in all respects. I know they get a slating, but my experience has been faultless.

Not a fan of the carbon wrap myself, but i do like the gloss black vinyl.

Sorry, scrap that,just looked at the photo again, its the actual flange thats gone, thought that was a clamp. You could get it welded up, but best bet is a nice shiny stainless one.

Depends. If your telling the Mrs, then the exhaust has rotted, and you NEED a replacement from the likes of Scorpion or Milltek. If you want it done cheap, then get a new exhaust clamp, bash the old one off, and replace it,job done. Car looks very nice by the way

Cheers guys,currently thinking of going the insurance route, as I think it maybe alot easier to deal with it like that. Unless Sized has a link to an Azure Door

Thats a bugger,i did send him a PM,but guess thats why iv not had a resonse. Debating whether to go down the insurance route at the moment

If anyone has one,or see's one before i do,please let me know.

Thanks for the sympathies, was a stupid accident, and i feel stupid that it happened. Hand brake did nothing stopping the car launching, but I should have remembered/noticed that it was still in gear. Hey ho. Atleast with my mate coming round in the morning, the gates at the end of the drive were open, otherwise I would have burst through them, with me still hanging out the car, then I really wouldnt have been able to stop it crashing into the house over the road. No one one Ebay breaking an Azure at the moment, but hoping with the help of friends and the forum I can locate one quickly and get it all sorted.

Cheers for all the replies. I also require a wing mirror too, as that was ripped off at the same time. Will follow up on the leads suggested. ALex has a door, but in Sunset, so trying to see if i can get an Azure one first.

They say Night shift is dangerous and they are not kidding. Spent 3.5 hours in A+E yesterday afternoon and narrowly escaped going into theatre. I got home from work at 7am yesterday morning, had a couple of hours sleep and helped my mate change his wheels on his BMW. Decided to go get my hair cut, so went to fire the car up. I leant in, put my left foot on the clutch and fired the car up. Not normally leaving it in gear on my drive as its flat, as I released the clutch the car launched itself down the drive way, with the door obviously open and most of my body and right leg outside the car. It got 2 yards before the corner of my house intervened. Dont know how, but i managed to get in the car and stop it just after it flew out the gates and was fast approaching the house opposite. Still not sure if it was the gate post or the wall that caused the worst of the damage though The result is a mangled drivers door and a bone deep gash on my leg that required some very painful attention. The big toe on my right foot was dragged along the ground or wall too, so iv got some very raw patches on my toe as well. So now im on several pain killers and antibiotics, cant drink for a week, cant drive, and cant cover work this weekend, which was my responsibility. So to summerise, im in a pretty sorry state, and need an Azure drivers door asap. The glass is ok, but not sure about the window motor or door handle.

Had a small accident yesterday, and urgently require a drivers door in Azure please. Not sure on the window motor, but glass is fine, so not bothered about that. Please contact me ASAP if you can help, as car can not go in the garage to keep safe. If it comes with the door handle even better.

Im hoping to fix all these problems by changing he router. I have the same

Looking for advice on changing my Sky Sagem router, which is less that great. I really dont understand any of the MAC/MER/?????? iv found on the internet searches. I know it can be done, but can someone help me please. Got a router to play with at the weekend, and if all goes well il get one. Router will be a TP link W8961ND.

I REALLY like the 6 series, great looking car,especially with bigger wheels. Iv never driven one, but as a cruiser, I suspect they are really good, and I bet the diesel one has got some good range. The petrol 6 and 5 series were criticised for their small tank, especially the V10 versions. Its a shame that manual versions are very rare, though the auto is probably so good it dont matter. My only worry with all newer BMW's, is the iDrive system, and if it goes wrong. My friend has an E60 520d, and even changing the battery isnt easy, you have to get the car reconfigured to the new battery and tell it what amperage it is etc, which really can only be done at a specialist or at BMW. Great car to look at though, as long as you go into it with your eyes open, and appreciate its not going to be cheap to run.

ITS HERE! At last! The RB9 lives,though as per other cars in a basic format. Looking forward to seeing how well it goes round a track. Hope people like the new colour scheme.

I cant get over that he was ragging the car from cold! He will be filing a claim for a new engine in no time if he does that every morning for a pint of milk!

Horses for courses.... dont worry Dave... the joke wasnt lost on me Made me smile too.

Smut, all of you! lol Just checked the specs, and on the 2010, it says that it has 3D pass through, and audio return, so guess thats means its 1.4 compatible.

I have no idea what ARC is. Only just found that the TV is 1.4 compatible. I understand that I can run just one HDMI 1.4 to the Amp from the TV and everything will work. So this needs to be plugged into the HDMI 2 channel then. The RXA 2010 dont appear to advertise that is HDMI 1.4 compatible. Or when it says 3D ready does that mean it will operate 1.4? Sorry, shop isnt open at this time, so you will all have to face my stupid questions! lol

Just trying to get my head around whether I need an amp that can handle HDMI 1.4 or not.

The back looks almost identical to my Panasonic, how odd! lol I know about bi wiring, sort of, but what about Bi amping? I dont really understand it, just picked up on it on a couple of forums i was looking at. My TV is a Tx-P55VT30B

Id love a 7 Series, ist Bangle Bmw,yes please! lol So the crux is, that i dont need more than the 2 optical inputs. I can get away with running HDMI cables (are 1.4 needed now with the surround sound) So the fact that the 6073 has enough HDMI inputs, i dont need anything more expensive than that? What about Bi Amping the front 684's,is it something worth doing? The local specialist is where i got my TV from, ex display 55" Panasonic Plasma, are a B+W stockist, so il go in and ask them for an audition. They initially specced the system with a Pioneer SC2020, but from what iv read from previous peoples experiences, il have a listen to the Yamaha, and then the Pioneer. But I can get the Yamaha 2010 for £700, which I think is a good deal, despite it being out for a couple of years. The Pioneer is £750, and a year newer from what i can tell. Not bothered about the Airplay, as iv got Apple TV anyway. Panasonic by any chance? lol

A good friend of mine has recently got a RXv 673, and says its an awesome piece of kit, its WHF 5* rated etc etc. However, it only has 2 optical inputs, and iv got 3 things already that need an optical, and all the amps at around £500 are the same, so having to take the step up to the next level. The price difference between the 2 amps im considering is is £200. Not bothered about Airplay, as i have Apple TV already, and happy to keep using it, as I can watch Youtube and stream videos from my phone on it.

Iv got a 3d TV, and im looking at getting a hifi/home cinema install. I have an optical output on the TV, and I have an optical output on my Apple TV. Would I be best to get an amp that can take more than 2 optical outputs, as i was thinking of connecting my soon to be bought blu ray player to the amp with an optical cable, so thats up to 3 now, and im pretty sure my Sky box has an optical output too, so thats 4. Thinking i can get a DAC from the Apple TV to the amp,so that will, if i decide to get one, discount one optical out. Thing is, with the new v1.4 HDMI cables, is optical output worth it? From my limited knowledge, v1.4 HDMI cables will carry digital sound as well as picture. Does this then render the Toslink/optical cable redundant. Looking to power a pair of B+W 684's for the fronts, and a set of M1's for the rears. Lucky enough to be in a position where I can get 2 very good Yamaha Amps, at a very good price. One is the rxv 3067,which is ex display in a good hi specialist, and the other is the rxa 2010,which is at a good price at the moment. I cant see much to split them spec wise, though leaning toward the 2010 abit. Any advice welcome.