matth76

Ok, popped down GT Art today who were very helpful and scanned the computer for fault codes and it came up with a P2135, can't remember the description exactly but it was along the lines of "incorrect electric voltage to the throttle position sensor". They are going to look into what part may need replacing or is causing this. For now they have cleared the code to see if it comes back. It hasn't come back on when I drove home from the garage today but will see if it comes on later or in the next few days. As already mentioned the car drives perfectly and pulls very hard as usual. Has anyone else had this code? What did it turn out to be or how did you resolve the issue from coming back? And was it expensive?! Thanks for any help or info.

Excellent write up and brilliant pics. I'd love to go some time. How did you deal with car insurance? My insurance company (and my policy on my last car and I think many policies) specifically say I am not allowed to go on the Nurburgring or do any track racing which is all pretty standard and don't expect it to be covered. Just wondered how much insurance is to cover racing on this track per day in your own car?

Saving for a house at the mo so prob keeping it stock for the time being. Did want a Nismo exhaust but v expensive. Heavily modded my last car, golf vr6, and got 206bhp out of it (factory quoted 174) so was very happy with that but found I had to spend a LOT to get just a few hp as it was all NA. So gf wont be happy if I spend our house deposit savings on my car

Yes I've been to GT Art a couple of times. I'll give them a ring tomorrow.

Thanks M350ZB, I'm right on the south coast unfortunately in sussex. Thanks for the offer though.

The sentence was a bit ambiguous - it can be two cars as you suggest or he's describing the big diesel merc which is both "RWD" and also "big sports car" (if you can call a diesel a sports car) ..but yes sounds more likely to be two separate cars.

Only the imports come in white apart from the latest 313ps 350z which comes in white. The earlier two UK models don't. If you have the dosh for the 370 wait for that. The price of the 350z will not drop much when it comes out. Dealers have already knocked the prices down as much as they can already (20k for brand new ones earlier this year). Older second hand ones won't be much affected - only newer 350z's still on the dealer forecourts which they want rid off.

How did you get on.. did you buy it? Black would be my choice.

I'd go for the 309bhp (313ps) version personally. A lot more torque and way more power and better more reliable engine all round. The rev up version actually has the least torque of all three models. The earliest "280ps" model actually has the most torque from the factory. Mine (a 2005 model) recently made 290lbs/ft on the dyno at GT Art but is advertised as having 274lbs/ft from the factory. The rev up is advertised as having 260lbs/ft from the factory so a big difference, and the 313ps model advertised as having 268lbs/ft. But the 313 version has a more even spread of torque so best all rounder. The newest 313 engine actually has more of a growl than the earlier models. 16k should be possible but it will not be the GT model. I found some GT (313) models for the 17-18k mark a few months back but have probably dropped since. As said brand new ones were being sold for 20k earlier this year so 16k very feasable. Make sure it is the 313 model (bonnet bulge and two air filters under the bonnet, plus the ignition has an orange light around it). Good luck.

Hi About a couple of cms underneath the fuel gauge a light which looks like a tap with two handles has come on, which I assume to be the engine management light. It is yellow and stays constantly on, no flashing. Car drives absolutely fine, and cannot notice any difference. I know a fault code has been thrown and would normally assume it is either the O2 / MAF sensor or something related to the cats. The only thing, very small thing I have noticed recently is that the exhaust seems slightly throatier, but only just and I have thought nothing of it. (No eggy smells so assume my cats are ok.) My car's only just four years old so quite surprised to see the engine management light come on! My question is if I take my car to a main dealer are they going to charge me to read the fault codes, for what is simply a two minute job (I know it is because I have seen it being done)? Alternatively does anyone know whether GT Art would be any help? Ideally want it checked as soon as poss and I have a Nissan main dealer two minutes down the road or GT Art two mins from my work. Could the engine management light indicate any other possible more serious faults? Anything I should look out for or can do to diagnose the problem more myself? Is there a way for me to reset the engine management light to make it go out and then allowing me to see if the light returns? Thanks for any help.

I have a stock 350z and was on Gary's rollers at GT Art several weeks ago and got 233 wheel horsepower and 242 lbs/ft wheel torque (just double checked my print out). Don't have a scanner so can't upload to compare graph lines to 3FIDDYZ's but my numbers can be used for comparison. 3FIDDYZ how's the car going?

Far too pricey in my opinion. Low mileage will only gain up to a grand at most in sale price but no more. I bought my 55 plate (6 months older than the car in your ad) GT model from nissan dealer for 12k, just over 30k miles, 2yrs mfr warranty. I would never in a million years pay £5k more for a convertable version which is only 6 months newer. Granted the mileage is extremely low but that's not always a good thing if the car has never been driven properly. Higher mileage cars often run smoother and better because they are always warmed up properly on their journeys. Totally up to you though. Good luck with it all.

In my opinion definitely buy the 2007 model. Worlds apart in performance. The 296bhp 2006 model has less torque and less power and a small few have a risky oil consumption issue. The 2007 "HR" 309 bhp model also responds much better to mods apparently and is generally a much better engine. Keep an eye out for the bump in the bonnet and the two air filters which only the latest 309 bhp model has. Most of the new "HR" models came in late 2007 on a 57 plate with only a small number with a 07 plate. Quite a few 296bhp models were registered in early 2007 and some people try to pass off a 296bhp car on a 2007 plate as a 309bhp version when in fact it has the older engine and add a couple of grand to the sale price, so beware.

What diesel merc does he have that will leave the Z for dust?? By the way the red 350 in that ad is an import. It's a 2002 model (UK models started in 2003 I believe) and you can tell by the square number plates. Not sure that red colour came on a UK car till the latest HR version came into production (2007-2009). Well done finding your 350z MiKyHuT How's the search going Stichy? As already mentioned I'd definitely aim about the 10k mark otherwise you're risking buying a dog. Only alternative is getting an import which are a lot cheaper but a bigger risk with no history, hidden problems etc.

I'd be interested to know if there is a reset procedure.. anyone?

Yes you just have to buy the adapter and it slots into the cradle (which should already be in the car - in the cubby hole compartment in the centre console between the seats) and once slotted in it all works straight away. I got mine from a contact in a dealer for £50, brand new.

Hi I think you're doing the right thing so far. You should be able to get a decent average mileage early 2003 UK model for £9k to 9.5k. Getting one for under that will be a bit difficult as they still demand quite a high price especially UK models. You may be able to find an import for under £9k but it will still be an older model but you will not get one from a main dealer - maybe an independent dealer but more likely an import specialist. Downside with an import is it will have no recorded history which is a bit of a risk with a car like this as a full service history is a must. I got my late 2005/55 UK model from a main dealer for 12k, along with 2yrs mfr warranty thrown in... so you should be able to get a 2002/2003 UK model for £3k less but it will be a very early model. Keep searching but be very prepared to travel. I live in the south and had to travel all the way to Manchester to get the one I was looking for. Took me a few months to finally get one. As said above it may not be a good car if less than £9k. If it were me I'd aim for a car advertised at £10k and then knock them down a bit. That will open up your field a bit as there are quite a few advertised for the £10k mark. Black and azure blue (the best colour by the way ) are a bit harder to come by and may be a bit more. Good luck.

Got the clicking rear axle all done under warranty. Just make sure you get the dealer to tell the Nissan warranty people that they are replacing all the parts, not greasing the parts because if no parts are replaced the warranty will not cover it. Just have the annoying wind in my ear when driving at speed. Looks like the rubber seal is just too thin to cover the glass on the top part of the window (about a 1mm gap). Apparently a new window seal is £200!! And this is not covered under warranty.

Piggybacks are going for the mid £700's so £500 is reasonable. People in the States (my350z) have actually highly recommended the flash (Uprev Osiris) that RS tuning offer. Only thing that puts me off is I lose my warranty whether I go the piggyback or re-flash route (and yes a dealer can tell). I'd be interested to see the performance gains and reliability reviews before I consider any ecu tune done in the UK.

What wheel horse power figure did you get? The wheel horse power is what matters because all dynos measure the power/torque at the wheels. Flywheel horsepower is always "estimated" and different garages use different estimations of what your transmission losses are in order to estimate (and they are only estimates) the flywheel power - which is what all manufacturers advertise and people brag about. However wheel horsepower is the best comparisson as it is accurate. The transmission losses in the 350z are about 15-17%, which means to get 276bhp you need ~232 wheel horsepower. Having said that even wheel horse power can vary a lot from roller to roller. I have had my car on two different rollers and the difference was as much as 20 wheel horse power! However I suspect there was a calibration error of some kind as I took it to a well established Nissan specialist: GT Art and it made a more realistic 233 wheel horse power and over 244 wheel lbs/ft, equating to ~280bhp (meaning at the fly) and ~290lbs/ft. If you're in the south east try and visit them http://www.gtart.co.uk. You have to remember that power in all cars varies a lot and varies from day to day. Advertised power figures are only a guide.

Got my spare key cut for £108 at a dealer for my UK car. £250 is very over the top for a UK car. Not good for the import quote though

Mine doesn't have any screws in it so presume them to be stick on. All correct font face, spacing and size etc and bought mine from a dealer so I'm not fussing bout mine and from what I can tell most modern cars these days don't have any visible screws either just like mine so they are all stick on too.

Do you know if it will have the rolled slanted tips, similar to stock tips, just like the very nice new one they have brought out for the 370z?

Second this. Totally agree. You shouldn't have any bodywork issues. Take it to another dealer, and another dealer and ring customer services until you get a result.

Any cosmetic changes you have seen are modifications by the owner. There is no difference in appearance between 2004 and 2005 models. I went for the 2005 model because Nissan was supposed to have ironed out a few of the earlier "common problems", but looks wise they are the exactly same. My car, totally stock got ~280bhp and ~290 lbs/ft (very welcome surprise with how much torque it has) on GT Art's reliable dyno. The standard MY2006 model has approx 296bhp but fair bit less torque of around 260lbs/ft but a few modifications with a lower (MREV2) and upper plenum spacer will see you get similar torque figures to the MY2005 or earlier. Downside is the 2006 model has a reported oil consumption issue which put me off personally but it was only a few affected, most are fine. If it was my money I'd get as newer car as poss. You can get the latest 2007/8 models for 17/18k.