matth76

Hi I currently have a basic Samsung mobile with bluetooth which I use to detect the bluetooth adapter in the 350z in order to receive and make calls handsfree - works perfectly. Can the new Iphone 3GS mobile link up to the standard bluetooth handsfree kit in the 350z? Anyone tried? I've heard mixed reviews about this new mobile and one of which was bluetooth functionality missing - surely it can't be missing basic stuff that my old Samsung has. Before I even think of getting one I need to know it works with the 350z's in-built handsfree kit. Thanks for any help and info.

Totally agree with you Ekona. The bog-standard (new model) audi tt with 2.0 turbo did a 1.31 dead - it really is not that fast but did a near perfect lap in perfect conditions but only has 200hp. And I clearly remember a few years back when the lambo murcielago (spelt correct?) first came out it did a poor time (conditions were dry if marginally damp but really not much at all) and the reason why I remember it was because the gallardo did a quicker time. Lambo actually complained and got top gear to do race the murcielago a second time, this time in A1 perfect track conditions and it wiped 5 secs of its original time. So times on that board are not everything at all. I would estimate the rev-up and 276 model would get near on identical times (rev up has more bhp but 276 model has a lot more torque - mine had 290lbs/ft torque, even more than an HR model) but the HR model would get very close times to the 370z and would be a fairer comparison. Fifth gear rated the 350z as their all time favourite coupe. I actually saw a black 370z in a Nissan carpark this morning and in the sun it looked absolutely STUNNING especially with the 19inch wheels. It is very nice in person! Interior did not look much different but was slightly better quality, with leather in the centre console. Still got bloody plastic silver painted handles on the exterior and interior though (so would imagine they are very prone to scratches) - even my gf 1.2 polo has better quality crome/silver handles. Aside from that very nice looking car. Originally wasn't sure on the front grill with the two "fangs" under the number plate but seeing it in person I can say it suits it perfectly. They have released the yellow colour in the States so not sure why they would not release the yellow in the UK too. I would love to see it in that colour. Not sure why Clarkson said it had 326 bhp - it is advertised as having 332-336bhp.

If you can get a look at an azure blue in the flesh it will be well worth it. I personally wasn't keen on the sunset orange "rusty" colour when the Z first came out but now really think it suits the car perfectly and it is very rare (I've never seen one in the flesh). When the sun hits it is seems to "flip" colours slightly - very nice. Would be one of my second choices of colour if I was buying again. Dark colours do definitely show the dirt - my last car, a golf vr6 was dark blue and was always looking dirty. Looked stunning when clean though.

Lol at M13KYF - I'm with Internet Service Providings. Fonejacker is brilliant. Hope they do another series. Just noticed the same thing happen just now at 11.20am producing a "page cannot be displayed" error - and I finally got back on at 11.26am. The page (if this makes any difference) I was on when the error occurred was: viewtopic.php?f=9&t=26019&p=379086#p379086 During 11.20am - 11.27am I couldn't get on to any other page either. I tried to browse to the home page by opening up a new window and typing in the address directly without success - until 11.26/11.27am when the page eventually opened up normally. Not sure if any of this helps. Thanks.

I'm probably getting the HTC Touch Pro2 in the next few days so it had better work with the 350z Strange that your phone won't connect when it can see the 350z connection in your list of detected bluetooth devices. Is there an option in your phone to "authorise" any of your detected bluetooth devices? Then it should connect automatically each time it comes in to range and when you turn the car on.

I'll second that lol Colour's always a personal thing however I think azure blue is one of the "rarest" 350z colours I've seen on the road (other than the GT4 yellow), other than mine I've only ever seen three - and when I saw a blue one in person I knew I just had to have it in that colour. Well done getting the car!

Definitely staying away from this dealer hearing what members have said on here. Sound like right shoddy dealers.

What part of your gear knob is worn - is it the leather surround or the metallic part at the top where the gear numbers are? If it is the top where the numbers are you can actually lightly remove all the laquer with some metal polish and cloth to reveal the nice aluminium underneath. That's what I did because it is a common problem that all gear knobs laquer peels off. It looks as it should have done from the factory now. As far as I know you have to remove the "plating" inside the wheel arch to get access to the side reflectors and the headlights. Should only be a few small bolts - you will have to turn the wheel (to the left or right) giving you room so you can remove the wheel arch plating. Very awkward I know but only way to do it.

Cheers Stan.

Definitely not cat claw scratches. My cat jumps on my car all the time (bloody thing - especially when I've just washed it of course) but they all tend to land "flat footed". My mum's cats do the same if they ever jump on the car, always flat footed, so don't need to worry about cats at all (you'll at worst just get some nice little paw prints). I would suspect it could be birds as they have "talons" or claws which some can't or don't retract. If the marks are on the roof or bonnet then that's what it probably is. T-cut should get rid off most of the scratches you've photographed. I had much worse scratches and due to the very soft paint jap cars have the scratches came out so easily (not like german cars which are lacquered much thicker and as such scratches much harder to get rid off). I use "Car Plan t-cut" from Halfords and it is very good stuff.

Your experience sums up how I felt when I looked for mine. Saw so many advertised and when I rang up 99% of all of them were either sold or when I got to them they were not in A1 condition. 10k should see you a decent one. If you are able to look for ones around the 10.5k mark you should easily get them down to under 10k. It's a buyer's market. Mine was advertised at 13k (just over) and I got them down to 12k with full two years mfr warranty - this was all at a main dealer. Mine is a 55 plate, had 34k miles on clock and fsh excellent condition etc. Doesn't matter too much where it is being advertised as long as it has FULL service history by a good garage (if owner says they serviced it themselves walk away) and has all its paperwork it should be fine. Good thing to do is also ring up the garage that has been servicing it and ask what work is likely to need doing in the near future...very useful. Id definitely do this if buying privately. Good luck. ps Be prepared to travel - I had to travel up to Manchester to eventually get mine and I live on the south coast!

Sure no probs. I have to say I wouldn't have thought it's my ISP or the internet because I can carry on browsing the rest of the internet and other sites but just not this site (could be too much traffic going through your host's servers if they host lots of other sites.. who knows). I will make a note of when it happens again and post a reply on here. Thanks.

The only issue I have had the last few weeks is the site seems to hang when trying to load any page (no particular page as it has happened on different ones) and eventually a "Page cannot be displayed" error occurs. It's definitely not my connection as I can carry on browsing other sites at the same time fine. I normally leave it five minutes (carry on browsing other internet sites while I wait) and refresh the page and it's all ok again. Not sure if it's a bandwidth or your web host server capacity issue. Being in the IT field I'd assume it is definitely something to do with the web host's server reaching some kind of capacity limit or similar. Normally all pages load absolutely fine, nice and quickly - it's just on the odd occasion (for example happened twice tonight in the space of a few hours) a page will hang after clicking a link or similar. Not really an issue for me as I am happy to wait a few minutes before trying again. Thought I'd mention it just to make you aware.

Shell Optimax (the old super they used to do) was 98. Shell V Power is 99ron. I personally use Tesco 99, far cheaper than BP and Shell. BP Ultimate is 97 so would never use anything less than 98 as it's not recommended and not a good idea due to high risk of pinking. If I didn't use Tesco 99 I'd use Shell V Power. BP did say they were going to start selling 100ron I believe or even slightly higher although that was ages ago so suspect it was only rumour and didn't ever materialise.

Thanks Stan. Any idea where I can get some Connolly or Glyptone?

On my last car with remote locking it was just a straight battery swap and everything fine. However will be interested to know for sure from others first. Also do you just get the battery from a nissan garage or can you get the battery from any shop?

Coolant is exactly the same a week afterwards. Thanks though. If I notice the smell again I'll try what you suggest. I revved the car hard the other day (when fully warmed up of course after a min of 15mins of driving) and no smell at all.

Last weekend I took a passenger home and shortly afterwards I noticed a small line about a couple of inches in the centre bottom part of the seat (where your backside would be resting). It's not very deep but when you look closely you can see the orange under-fabric underneath the leather skin and multiple small tear marks where something has rubbed over it causing it - it is not deep just literally a surface "gash" about a mm deep but noticable from one angle when the light hits it. It looks as though something metal on my mate's jeans could have caused it (I wont hold any grudges). Are there any remedies I can use to fix it up or make it less noticable? What is the best leather protector/nourisher that removes or improves wrinkles in leather? I have used Autoglym but it may nourish it but not sure it makes much difference to the wrinkles. Any other makes I can try?

Car has done 40k miles and I know some clutches go at this mileage. Cheers for the replies. I didn't think it was anything to worry about and at worst it is the clutch as I know the 350z has a very weak clutch compared to most cars. My exhaust does have a slight blow in it so that could also account for the smell..not sure. Cheers Matt

Advert no longer shows - how much was it?

£200 for the rubber strip / window seal!!! I've decided to drive slower or put up with the whistle. It's a common problem and in a car that's 3.5 yrs old should not have this kind of thing happening under "wear and tear" - yet Nissan refuse to fix it under mfr warranty which I have.

The other day (when the car was fully warmed up) I reached a long open dual carriageway, was already rolling along slowly, and accelerated hard up through the gears. I had the air con on as it was quite warm outside that day. When I was hitting the very high revs (with the rev limiter light coming on in each gear) I could detect a slight smell which I thought seemed similar to burning but wasn't distinct enough to worry me, however the cabin seemed quite warm (which I know will happen as the engine heats up dramatically) but then cooled down. However a couple of days later I decided to test it again and sure enough (air con was on again and moving from a rolling start) accelerated hard and car pulled very hard as always but just noticed a slight burning smell and cabin did warm up slightly but car was fine, drove very fast, and oil pressure, water temps all absolutely normal. Oil levels absolutely fine too when I checked a day later. In fact car has not used up any oil since buying the car back in Feb. It's a 2005 gt model. Only thing I can think it could be clutch burning smells (or something electrical which seems odd that hard acceleration would cause this). Has anyone else experienced this happen when accelerating? Thanks for any help and info.

Cheers guys for your help. Will hopefully have it booked in to GT Art when they can get a response from Nissan on the parts required and poss costs. So far touch wood car has been fine (still drives very quickly), drives fine just has engine management light staying on (same yellow colour). Only thing that seems to be present (and has been the case since the light came on last time is the exhaust is very slightly louder, like it is blowing as suggested. Sounds a bit better/sportier than normal to be honest but was wondering if this could have any affect on what has happened - ie if an exhaust system is blowing slightly could it cause a fault like this? I assume it's fine to drive the car normally in the mean time? Thanks for the help so far.

Thanks Mark. Looks like I'm going to have to get my local specialist to isolate the problem. Car is only just 4 yrs old so this is all really surprising on such a newish car. Does anyone have the process of clearing the light manually (without a code reader) - something that I can do myself without any tools?

Hi A few weeks ago my engine management light came on (was a yellow colour) but the car drove fine. Went to a garage who read the code and it was p2135 which is "Incorrect electric voltage to throttle position sensor". The garage also told me they thought my exhaust backbox sounded as though it was blowing slightly. Anyway the cleared the fault and for the last month it has been fine. Today I parked in a car park and when I got back and started it the engine management light was back on (again a yellow colour) and this time the light saying the traction control was off and the symbol to the right with car "skid" marks. The car would hardly rev and not go much more than 30mph and up hill it would crawl along much slower. Occasionally it would rev very high. I assume this must be what is called "limp mode". Is this correct? When I got to some traffic lights I turned the engine off and on again the traction control lights had gone out and the car would rev and drive normally again, however the engine management light was still on. Has all this to do with the initial fault I experienced a few weeks ago? Is it ok to drive my car (it is driving ok now since turning it off and on although the light is on)? Oil and water temps absolutely normal. Thanks for any help and info.