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Pretty sure the 350z doesn't have a smart alternator so it should charge continuously, ensure lights etc off and use a multimeter to test for 14v. If its 12v it isn't charging. With lights etc on it should still be circa 13v. If its low it might not be the alternator, you can try a voltage drop test between the alternator and the battery to see if its a wiring fault, corrosion etc.

I think who ever buys that car will loose out big time when they go to sell it

Nice mate Nismo V1 style rims?

The battery of my 2007 350Z died after 4 years. It was replaced by a similar one of the same brand. I noticed that after the first15minutes of driving the battery indicator turns on and the volt meter needle stops on 12V. After another 3 or 4 minutes it goes off and the volt meter goes on 14 to 15 volts which means that the alternator starts charging the battery again. I am not sure if this problem was already there with the old battery but i noticed it since i changed to a new battery. Can anyone tell me if the problem is with the battery or the alternator or anything else? Thanks a lot Charles

With the correct size grub screw: (Much better)

Seems to have gone well, jwt popcharber and z1 plenum spacer both fitted and good to go. Car feels slightly juddery when pulling of but once driving seems to settle, its not in for a tune with dynatune until next month. Would it benefit for the peddle dance maybe? Other than these mods and the full exhaust anything else recommended before tuning? @ZMANALEX @Keith D

47k if it was a Nismo id consider without hesitation but normal Z that may be an ST trim judging by seats is still 12k above what our friends in Japan are paying. At a time when customs is lower than usual. I reckon the white one sold but you never know.

Following on from the last post I was finally able to dial in my alignment. I've gone for: Front: -3 camber 8 caster 0 toe Rear: -2 camber 0 toe I want to see how the car handles on this set up first before dialling in anymore camber, caster or toe From a quick drive around local country lanes this has really brought the car to life and I wish I did it sooner.

With the Nürburgring trip closing in its time to prepare the car, its already had wheels, tyres and brakes, time for something usually overlooked, camber. I attempted to get an alignment prior to the Poland road trip, but my front upper control arms were seized so couldn't. I've opted to replace them with the Z1 Motorsports race versions. During install I had to loosen the coil over to install them, unfortunately one of the coil over bolts sheered. Luckily, it was an easy fix to get a replacement stud from BC and a couple days later I could fix the issue.

Will double check the small torque wrench, sure thats in nM too. Failing that middlke ground with a inch lb conversion

Aim middle for diddle with any torque range, so 52 inch lbs. Inch lbs is small by the way, my 1/4 drive drive torque wrench is marked in inch lbs.

Best to use an inch-lbs torque wrench. For reference 60 inch lbs = 5ft lbs or 6.7791 nm. However, as Andy has said, the bolts have to be tightened down following a specific sequence. If you require this sequence, then let me know. Here you go.

Hi buddy, I would as you say check online 1st. They are usually torqued down in stages. They should also follow a pattern which should be with the instructions? Sorry I can't be of more help but I am sure someone with more knowledge will be along shortly to advise you better...

Hi all, Finally took the plunge and bought one of these... the instructions say Tighten all bolts to 44-61 inch-lbs. Obvioulsy ill need to look online and convert this to ft-lb or nM as none of my tools are inch pounds. However this is quite big margin, what would be recommended?

https://www.ebay.co.uk/p/6036756640?iid=255953535295&fitmentTarget=Car+Make%3ANissan|Model%3A370Z hope this helps

Needs more photos of the interior and information. Nice to see one not in white.

Another one http://www.autotrader.co.uk/car-details/202508075231517?utm_source=share&utm_medium=android-app

Have I fixed all of the cars issues? no. Did I buy new wheels instead of addressing said issues? Absolutely I did. In terms of tyres I kept my 255/35 Pilot Sport 4S but at the rear I wanted to try the Continental Sport Contact 7s and so far I have to say they're a better tyre albeit I am now running a wider tyre at 305/30. Fitment is bang on. I could've specified a more aggressive offset on the rear imo. My wheels specs are: Front: 19x9.5et22 Rear: 19x11et22 (I wish I went for et15)

Hi everyone, hoping someone has one of these willing to give away/sell, perhaps from a build project where it was no longer needed etc. ITs the trim that surrounds the centre screen/vents/aircon controls etc.

That bronze and blue is a hot combo man. looks great. I follow you on insta btw Stuggerz right? Im Ballistic350 on there

Curborough Sprint from today, only 1 timed run ☹️

Hey team, what time will the event go on until? Will try and pop by but can’t make it till the afternoon. Thanks.

This may be what you are referring to.

No, we can’t force it shut. yeah everything appears good. Will have to check micro switches etc. apparently there’s a link between bows 1 and 5 that ensures the roof is tight when up? I can’t see a connection between them.

Lubricate all the linkages and make sure that the micro switches are good. Does it close with a little bit of manual help? Also engine has to be running and your battery in good condition.