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Hi Everyone, I'm quite new to this forum so please go easy on me if i'm asking a stupid question. I've recently broken a 2006 Convertible with 41k genuine miles and put the rev up Engine, cd0009 gearbox, steering, clocks & door panels etc in my old sunset coupe and i still have the low mileage diff sitting here but alas without any driveshafts, which i would guess are pull out as opposed to bolted. From looking on here and the internet i think the 41k diff is mechanical (Breaker was an 06 UK GT ) and my diff i'm guessing is viscous being an 04 UK GT. My original diff has no leaks, makes no noise and locks up fine but needs new bushes whereas the 06 is far lower mileage and the bushes are like new. . If i'm right above i'm reluctant to swap it out as a: i'm guessing my shafts won't fit and b: i fitted a thorsen diff which i believe is like the mechanical one on my old E30 24 valve and i definately preffered my original clutched LSD on that as the Thorsen only worked when both sides had grip and tried to kill me when i fitted it so i swapped back to the Clutched one on that . Does anyone with a bit more experience of the Z's know if i'm correct in the assumptions i'm making above and if i am missing something please ? Car is mostly used for fast road driving as opposed to track or drifting. Many Thanks Ian

The propshaft is carbon fibre. My brother was telling me his Quadrifoglio had a carbon fibre propshaft. I couldn't resist mentioning that so has my 20 year old 350Z.

I've seen prettier things in the bottom of my toilet bowl after a curry.

Saw the ugliest EV in existence on my hols to America. Tesla Cyber Truck.

Approved for now but please include a photo with you username on a bit of paper.

I'm an idiot and ordered 2 sets (thought it was 1 set per wheel) By the time I came to put them on and realised, returns were shut. Brought from Horsham but they were delivered direct from EBC (happy to share receipt). Fronts £100 Rears £75 £165 for the pair.

Has anyone had any of these repair panels since? I need ones for left and right sides. @ZMANALEX Thanks

Has anyone had any of these repair panels since? I need ones for left and right sides. Thanks

Thank you all. How much are the oem pre owned one?

+1 for clear

OEM pre-owned fully working motors are in stock, however the eBay ones work as I have used them in the shop on numerous occasions.

@ZMANALEX can probably help with this - it's not an uncommon issue.

I have to admit I'm normally not a fan of these clear tail lights but I totally agree with you. They break up the red nicely and add definition. Definitely run them in my opinion. I always struggle to decide whether a change looks right when you're used to how it was. Fit the other clear, run them for a couple of weeks then look back at a picture of the red (realising you made the right choice ).

Jdm clear tail lights So I had been mulling these over for a looong time. Part of me was torn, as the lexus style clear lights aren't really my thing. But red lights on a red car? The lights just don't stand out at all and almost blend into one another in my opinion. The jdm ones, They are pricy and I'd never really intended to get them untill maybe a few years down the road. But seeing that Nissan has now discontinued them, scared me into action and buying them. I got a set off Ebay from Japan. 2nd hand in good nick. Had to pay customs charge too.(annoying) but here's them fitted on one side and the orgionals In red for comparison. I wasn't sure about them. But I think they do work on a red car. Let me know what yous all think. Are they Tacky or do they work? Forgot to mention i had to seal the wiring a little from the old units to new. I think you can file the plugs to fit. But I had them off the red lights so I just switched them to save me chopping.

Bump, just over a week out now! Look forward to seeing you all there.

I don't know about 350zs but I've had electric motors on older cars where the grease inside the gears has been old thick and crusty; and after a a strip down, wash and new grease was fine. I've also had occasions where it's been tired and worn reed switches on the switch circuit board at fault not the motor or regulator. Also a failed capacitor on the circuit board.

Hi, My drivers side window stopped working and could only get it back to the up position by banging the door whilst pressing the up button I assume this would be the motor and not the regulator? If motor eBay seems to have very cheap ones; https://ebay.us/m/usoO6l Has anyone purchased one of these before? OEM is ridiculous but Torqen does a rev spring one which is more reasonable but still not cheap. Cheers

So... it's been a little while due to life forcing the Nissan to take a back seat. However yesterday saw a few bits done that I've been meaning to get around to for a while! First up, wheel spacers. After 2 and a half years of "encouragement" by @Stutopia and a number of other ex-Zed owners, I've finally gotten around to it 😅 I went with the tried and tested 25mm rear/ 20mm front for the standard RAYS. I'm very please with the resulting stance Next up, some heavy duty boot springs off eBay since the boot was failing to pop open. It would seem a previous owner had already put washers in in attempt to give them some more life... This was a bit of a faf of a job, since the circlips holding the spring in place were tiny. I got there in the end though so now the boot has a nice pop and much easier to open. The final job was a wiper delete kit which I've finally got around to fitting. I bought it off eBay a couple of years ago and I have to say I'm really impressed by the fit and finish of it. Ideally I'd have it colour coded but that's a job for another day! Kit + Before. After. Much cleaner look imo 😁 Of course, you have to get out an for evening drive to test your wiper delete is working as expected, right?

NECRO Please tell me someone has figured this out. 08 HR TPS relay stuck on. Orange wire has more voltage than it should with the ignition off however I jumped the wire from the IPDM to the ECU with a new length of 14 gauge and the relay stayed on. New IPDM, new throttle body, new APP, new crank and cam sensors. $1800 with the shop and no progress. About to put a new to her harness and ECU in. I've read the "coil driver" in the ECU could be bad but I do have communication with it for DTCs.

Hi ZonixX; thanks for the review. What type of use did you take into account when determining the life expectancy of the pads and discs? I'm interested to get DS1.11 at my 350Z but i'm a bit worried about duration of this pads amb the discs. I have tried DS2500 and EBC Bluestuff NDX. The DS1.11 are +50% more expensive than these two. Thanks.

I would contact the supplier bud, what make are they