nissanman312 Posted December 27, 2014 Share Posted December 27, 2014 i dont know why they havnt done them for the 70 yet might ring them up lol 1300 on a bloody coffee machine im in the wrong business Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bodyboarder81 Posted December 27, 2014 Author Share Posted December 27, 2014 I think the kw clubsports are still ment to be very very good. I've just fitted the eibach Arbs to mine and its a massive improvement . I'm just running some tein springs and it's a great road set up ..... Probably not to good on the track though , not stiff enough . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nissanman312 Posted December 27, 2014 Share Posted December 27, 2014 I think the kw clubsports are still ment to be very very good. I've just fitted the eibach Arbs to mine and its a massive improvement . I'm just running some tein springs and it's a great road set up ..... Probably not to good on the track though , not stiff enough . are they better than the v3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bodyboarder81 Posted December 27, 2014 Author Share Posted December 27, 2014 Don't quote me but I think it goes v1 v2 v3 then the clubsport ..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nissanman312 Posted December 27, 2014 Share Posted December 27, 2014 Don't quote me but I think it goes v1 v2 v3 then the clubsport ..... well i suppose that would make sense i bet there bordering ohlin price tho Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bodyboarder81 Posted December 27, 2014 Author Share Posted December 27, 2014 Don't quote me but I think it goes v1 v2 v3 then the clubsport ..... well i suppose that would make sense i bet there bordering ohlin price tho I would have thought so to be honest and not really sure you would see much difference if your not tracking it every weekend . 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ekona Posted December 28, 2014 Share Posted December 28, 2014 They also map their cars for 91 obtain .... We have better fuel than them . We don't, we just use RON and they use MON. Their 87 is our 95, and their 91 is our 98. They then go higher than we can easily get hold of, so really they're better off than we are 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pritchard Posted December 28, 2014 Share Posted December 28, 2014 (edited) We don't, we just use RON and they use MON. Their 87 is our 95, and their 91 is our 98. They then go higher than we can easily get hold of, so really they're better off than we are this ^^^ People often think the Octane rating is the same. The Yanks cant even spell colour properly, why on earth would they use the same octane rating as the rest of us GMB: Quote of the week! loved this: ''If the Vortech made my car sound like a Prius f**king a diesel BMW I'd still do it just for the performance benefits.'' I've been watching this thread as I too am sniffing around the s/chargers. There seems to be alot of HP figures bounded around as to what is and isnt safe. of course there isnt one, 276bhp OEM is still more than capable of engine failure. but what is interesting is the difference of opinions of what the 'Safe Zone' is based on the stock internals. If a tuner/driver is going to spend this sort of money on their car then obviously you want to get as much power squeezed out as possible, at acceptable risk levels. Hearing about OllyBs engine going so soon after the work is gutting for him and a warning to the rest. I may have missed it though Olly - what engine did you have? I saw mention of HR, was this yours? If I could get a solid 450bhp I would be over the moon. thats a very pub-worthy figure to me (to which we will all have our own targets) But no-one wants to gloat one week, then mourn the death of the engine the following week. Reliability aside and now thinking about practicality... i twitch the back end quite violently every time i launch with commitment at 300bhp. To add upwards of 100bhp is going to require some serious rubber to 1, be usable and 2, to instil confidence in the driver - what are the current Vortech guys using? Pritchard Edited December 28, 2014 by Pritchard Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jumping350 Posted December 28, 2014 Share Posted December 28, 2014 (edited) Its the torque that will kill the engine not the BHP - ive got my kit at home ready to go and not even looking at bhp figures to aim for etc im more worried about where the torque curve will sit safely for my engine. bhp figures would be a bonus for me Edited December 28, 2014 by jumping350 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GMballistic Posted December 28, 2014 Share Posted December 28, 2014 Pritchard I'm currently running Falken 453's on my Zed with a 275/35/19 tyre on the rear driven wheels. If I launch it hard I can smoke & snake down the road like a crazy person but that's where you have to learn how to use throttle control to get the power you have down onto the tarmac. I'm considering getting some MPSS (Michelin Pilot Super Sports) next time the tyres need replacing as they are regarded by most to be the best tyre choice for our cars. The other thing I'm considering is going up to a 285 width tyre on the rear predominantly because for some strange reason they are cheaper than the 275 but a bit more width would help with traction I'm sure. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OllyB Posted December 28, 2014 Share Posted December 28, 2014 It's an hr. And as long as you drive it with respect you can stay on standard rubber, I'm on rays with mpss and its a bit lairy in first and second but still predictable. In the wet you just have to drive to the conditions, as you would in any high power rear wheel drive car. I am currently trying to decide what the best way to go to improve getting the power down is, dif or suspension first.... Hmm 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OllyB Posted December 28, 2014 Share Posted December 28, 2014 Pritchard I'm currently running Falken 453's on my Zed with a 275/35/19 tyre on the rear driven wheels. If I launch it hard I can smoke & snake down the road like a crazy person but that's where you have to learn how to use throttle control to get the power you have down onto the tarmac. I'm considering getting some MPSS (Michelin Pilot Super Sports) next time the tyres need replacing as they are regarded by most to be the best tyre choice for our cars. The other thing I'm considering is going up to a 285 width tyre on the rear predominantly because for some strange reason they are cheaper than the 275 but a bit more width would help with traction I'm sure. It's not all about width.....so I've heard. The wider the tyre the more area to take up the load therefore it's more to do with how the weight is transferred to the tyre I.e how hard it's being pushed into the road... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GMballistic Posted December 28, 2014 Share Posted December 28, 2014 It's not all about width.....so I've heard. The wider the tyre the more area to take up the load therefore it's more to do with how the weight is transferred to the tyre I.e how hard it's being pushed into the road... You are correct wider tyres don't always necessarily mean better traction. I tried to read about it awhile ago and came across some Physics forums that tbh just made the subject even more confusing. The basic gist of it is from what I read: wider contact patch sacrifices linear traction for lateral, narrower tyre's sacrifices lateral for longitudinal traction. Personally I think with what we're talking about though, changing the width from a 275 to a 285, I won't notice a difference either way. Although I would notice the price difference which is why I was considering this move in the first place tbh. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jp606 Posted December 28, 2014 Share Posted December 28, 2014 (edited) Who sit's there just listening to their car idle anyway? Apart from the MaxPower/chav brigade sitting in a McD's carpark or similar. I just start mine, put my belt on & off I go. Does your vortech sound like a tractor at idle mate? Concerning reliability and engine damage .... From all the reading I've done on here and the US forum .... Yes a few have gone bang and quite alot have had bad power figures due to the supplied ( carb approved map) mapping from stillen . They also map their cars for 91 obtain .... We have better fuel than them . The ones that have had a proper tune ( on here and US) have done loads of miles with no problems . The stillen kit looks to be a very good supercharger package but it must be fitted (along with essential upgraded components )and mapped perfect to minimise the risks to the engine long term ...... Luckily we have some very good tuners on here who know the vortech kit and zed engines very very well. I would love to here from a few on here who have had there's charged and how they are getting on ........ But as dan says it is a risk ..... But this can be minimised The reason the supplied Stillen map isn't very good and doesn't produce good numbers is because it's locked and cannot be modified by tuners in the US due to the laws over there. The 'international tune' they supply outside the US is just a base map to get the car started then you have it properly tuned by your preferred tuner. Stillen themselves told me this. The kit also comes with everything needed out the box to produce 450-500bhp, no extras needed, just a decent tune. You can add other bits if you want but Stillen don't recommend any. Edited December 28, 2014 by Jp606 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adrian@TORQEN Posted December 29, 2014 Share Posted December 29, 2014 @Jp606, just have a browse on the US 370z forum, I've posted some links in the TORQEN threads, you'll soon find out the Stillen supporting mods are just crap @OllyB, where did your engine gone bang, on the road or on the dyno? Who tuned your car? @Bodyboarder81 & @nissanman312, you just need to look at the amount of people that have ran or still run FI zeds on here, not a lot of engine gone bang after having the FI, however we've seen more NA engines going bang this year than ever before. It really comes down to the tune, where it starts and how it's being improved and controlled by the tuner while on dyno. There is also a thread on here about FI reliability, have a look on that aswell. At the end of the day, for both 350z and 370z I had/have, it was down to creating a car with my signature on it, otherwise I could have bought a GT-R and never touch it. I love and enjoy modifying cars, not a fan of BMW M or resale Porsche Carrera cars at all 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OllyB Posted December 29, 2014 Share Posted December 29, 2014 Octet, it went on the road. I'm not trying to dissuade people from doing it. If there hadn't been many examples of 350s that had survived fi then I wouldn't have done it without building the motor first. I'm only trying to reinforce the reality of what is being asked. If you up the power then you are going to run into reliability issues especially now the cars are getting older / higher mileage. In my view its worse for people to do it and then regret it if there are problems. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adrian@TORQEN Posted December 29, 2014 Share Posted December 29, 2014 (edited) Octet, it went on the road. I'm not trying to dissuade people from doing it. If there hadn't been many examples of 350s that had survived fi then I wouldn't have done it without building the motor first. I'm only trying to reinforce the reality of what is being asked. If you up the power then you are going to run into reliability issues especially now the cars are getting older / higher mileage. In my view its worse for people to do it and then regret it if there are problems. Hi OllyB, I understand your view, of course. There are a million factors that can influence the longevity of the engine before and after it has been supercharged. Naming just a few: bad maintenance, wrong oil type, bad tuning map, using wrong fuel etc Who tuned your car before it went bang and what sort of power / torque were you running? Is there a build thread in here? Also, have to bare in mind that unlike few years ago where the 350z was still over £10k, you can now source an engine for less than £1k in case something goes bang. Is not like the risk is huge, comparing to risking a £30k new 370z Edited December 29, 2014 by octet Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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