Danohosko Posted August 16, 2014 Share Posted August 16, 2014 (edited) Hi guys, First post since my intro post. Enjoyed the Z so far but now im starting a better paid job i think it's time i start making some changes Any suggestions or advice would be great, and she's an 05 276bhp, Gt Pack with ESP and Brembos, (LSD??) Intake - Jwt Plenum Spacer - Wasso \\Headers - Stillen HFCs - Berks Y/Cat Back - Magnaflow?? Clutch + Flywheel - Jwt Final Drive - Central 20 3.9 \\Lightweight Pulleys - Stillen \\Engine Damper - Stillen Remap Braided Brakes and Clutch Lines - HEL *Brake Pads - *Brake Discs - *ARBs - *Diff Bush - Powerflex Any other suggestions? Pre-remap or post-remap. I should add that only to do with performance not styling. Also on 62k so maybe bushings etc? Thanks all Dan Edited August 16, 2014 by Danohosko Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GMballistic Posted August 16, 2014 Share Posted August 16, 2014 Interesting list Dan. I wouldn't bother with the Stillen damper though unless you're going FI. Saves you £175 odd then which you could put towards better brake discs or a good set of Ferodo DS2500 pads to help you stop quicker. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jp606 Posted August 16, 2014 Share Posted August 16, 2014 (edited) As you are upgrading the brake lines to SS ones, I'd also go for upgraded discs and pads and of course a decent fluid, such as Motul RBF600. I'd look at suspension tweaks too, the best thing I did to my Z was change the ARBs to Eibach ARBs + decent drop links, add stiffer suspension springs and get a proper alignment setup done (at Abbey Motorsport). Obviously good tyres too. This massively improves the handling of the car and how you can utilise the extra power from a remap etc. I personally wouldn't bother with the damper, or the pulleys and I'd leave the clutch until it actually needs replacing. If I was going FI then I'd upgrade the clutch first. If you're looking for the best gains then the stock air box + filter panel/decats/upgraded exhaust seems to be the best proven method and in your case a spacer on the earlier models. A few people go for headers but they are tricky to fit and quite expensive for relatively little gains, imo. Edited August 16, 2014 by Jp606 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Toon Chris Posted August 16, 2014 Share Posted August 16, 2014 On 62K you could consider a powerflex diff bush. Tightens up the whole feel of the drivetrain if yours is worn. Also from posts I've seen on the forum, for the cost and effort new headers are simply not worth doing for the minimal gains you get. Dropping those form the list will save you a lot of money Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Toon Chris Posted August 16, 2014 Share Posted August 16, 2014 I personally wouldn't bother with the damper, or the pulleys and I'd leave the clutch until it actually needs replacing. If I was going FI then I'd upgrade the clutch first. I disagree about the clutch. A lightened flywheel makes a noticeable difference to the engine pick-up and IMO is a big improvement to the feel of how the car drives. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snjur Posted August 16, 2014 Share Posted August 16, 2014 In my case best noticeable improvement was headers and de cats. Second was ultralight flywheel. This 2 modifications have completely change the nature of car Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GMballistic Posted August 16, 2014 Share Posted August 16, 2014 In my case best noticeable improvement was headers and de cats. Second was ultralight flywheel. This 2 modifications have completely change the nature of car That's cool and if Dan wants to do the exhaust manifolds then it's best to get that done at the same time as the clutch/flywheel as it'll save a lot on fitting charges. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jp606 Posted August 16, 2014 Share Posted August 16, 2014 (edited) I personally wouldn't bother with the damper, or the pulleys and I'd leave the clutch until it actually needs replacing. If I was going FI then I'd upgrade the clutch first. I disagree about the clutch. A lightened flywheel makes a noticeable difference to the engine pick-up and IMO is a big improvement to the feel of how the car drives. Fair enough I guess what I mean is I'd rather spend the money on upgrading other bits first, only replacing the clutch if necessary. I haven't replaced mine so don't have any experience of what difference a lightened flywheel makes, but it makes sense that it'd improve the feel. Edited August 16, 2014 by Jp606 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snjur Posted August 16, 2014 Share Posted August 16, 2014 (edited) Mine was busted so I put all the parts together. I spent hole day on Stillen headers and de cats. That evening car was feeling let say aprox 20 hp stronger specially after 4000 rpm was different story. Next day was flywheel and clutch kit. Noticeable difference was with light flywheel that was reving up way faster than before. Gear changes where way smoother and faster. But my old clutch was together with flywheel completely wasted so that should be taken into account Only down side of this ultralight flywheel is noise when car is in neutral. But I am willing to sacriface that for performance. If I need to point out modification with less noticeable effect that would be plennum spacer Edited August 16, 2014 by Snjur Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Toon Chris Posted August 16, 2014 Share Posted August 16, 2014 I personally wouldn't bother with the damper, or the pulleys and I'd leave the clutch until it actually needs replacing. If I was going FI then I'd upgrade the clutch first. I disagree about the clutch. A lightened flywheel makes a noticeable difference to the engine pick-up and IMO is a big improvement to the feel of how the car drives. Fair enough I guess what I mean is I'd rather spend the money on upgrading other bits first, only replacing the clutch if necessary. I haven't replaced mine so don't have any experience of what difference a lightened flywheel makes, but it makes sense that it'd improve the feel. I'm sure it was a lot cheaper when I bought mine, I've just had a look at the prices for a Fidenza light flywheel on ebay and they are well pricey. GMBallistic makes a good point about fitting costs but I have to say I'm surprised what Snjur says about the headers making a big difference. I had thought that the difference was minimal and the fitting difficulty huge. I must be remembering that wrong then Someone else who has actually done it will need to wade in on the header subject Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GMballistic Posted August 16, 2014 Share Posted August 16, 2014 From what I've read the exhaust manifolds are the most restrictive part of our entire exhaust systems, ...now whether changing them will see a big difference in performance or not I have no idea but it will obviously be beneficial. Arran has changed his manifolds from standard to DC Sports manifolds I believe so it would be good to see what he says if he spots this thread. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snjur Posted August 16, 2014 Share Posted August 16, 2014 I must say that I have removed cat when installing headers and replaced them with de-cat pipes. So headers alone what kind of difference they make I cant say. But combination with de-cats is quite significant. And one more thing, to take out old and put new headers is such a pain in the butt job. If I am faced again with that task for sure I would take engine out and do it out side engine bay Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danohosko Posted August 16, 2014 Author Share Posted August 16, 2014 (edited) Right cheers for all the feedback, I will say my plan is to buy all the bits over a few months, and then just have a week of fitting it all, my usual guy is pretty reasonable on price and i'll give him a hand i expect so that should be ok for fitting only thing is i wouldn't want him to do the final drive in the gearbox, doubt he'll have the kit for it... I'll add on the Brake pads & Discs & fluid, and the ARBs, and the Powerflex Bush. I wont bother with damper unless i got the money kicking about and same goes for the pulleys. My clutch doesn't slip but does smell at high revs (think its clutch) also figured the Jwt package can all go in at same time Jwt flywheel is 14lbs rather than some which are only 8lbs, hoping it will be a bit of middle ground for the flywheel...? Not sure about headers, i did read they are a ball ache but if i'm gonna have out the clutch and gearbox may aswell try and do it then, sound reasonable? And as with your comments seem to be some mixed reviews on them, but they do look pretty Suspension i haven't got a clue about really haha :/ Also as for money obviously i don't want to be wasting it but i don't want to be scrimping too much either For the exhaust i'm thinking either the Magnaflow or the ARK Grip, don't want anything that'll make me sound like a scooby rollin round, more like a rally car on Dirt 2 Dan Edited August 16, 2014 by Danohosko Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jp606 Posted August 16, 2014 Share Posted August 16, 2014 Best thing for the exhaust is to go to some meets, or find Zed owners in your area with the setup you want and listen to them in person, videos on YouTube don't really sound anything like they do in person. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danohosko Posted August 16, 2014 Author Share Posted August 16, 2014 (edited) Hmm in Cornwall so will see what the nearest meet is i think haha You guys reckon the Jwt Flywheel + 3.9 final drive would make a good combo? Edited August 16, 2014 by Danohosko Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Chubby Ninja Posted August 16, 2014 Share Posted August 16, 2014 (edited) I've been in an HR with the 3.9 final drive and it gives the car so much more acceleration that it was doing 1/4 mile times close to what my supercharged DE does. Also the final drive isn't in the gearbox, it's in the diff housing. The final drive is definitely going to be my next mod Edited August 16, 2014 by The Chubby Ninja Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danohosko Posted August 16, 2014 Author Share Posted August 16, 2014 (edited) I like the sound of that Am i right in thinking that anything you lose off the top speed is still above the 155mph limit? Ah i see, that explains why people say to do the LSD at the same time then! Edited August 16, 2014 by Danohosko Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bodyboarder81 Posted August 16, 2014 Share Posted August 16, 2014 What's the pros and cons of changing the final drive then? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danohosko Posted August 16, 2014 Author Share Posted August 16, 2014 (edited) As far as i'm aware its just a trade of between acceleration and top speed/fuel economy. Standard is 3.5, so the 3.9 will shorten gear ratio for all gears, increase acceleration but reduce top speed and fuel economy for each gear. Means more gear changes too.... This is just what ive got from the forum so i could be wrong... Edited August 16, 2014 by Danohosko Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bodyboarder81 Posted August 16, 2014 Share Posted August 16, 2014 Ya been doing a bit of reading on it and I think the yanks like it as it means they don't have to change gear right at the end of the drag strip ..... Think this is where the main benefits are . Not sure i would warrant it on a road biased car.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ekona Posted August 16, 2014 Share Posted August 16, 2014 What are you aiming for with the car? Tbh, the mods you've mentioned look like mods for the sake of it rather than trying to improve something about the car you don't like. As a rule, you cannot go far wrong with the very old 'First make it stop, then make it handle, then make it go' phrase. Do the brakes, then do tyres/wheels/suspension, then anything that will add power or reduce losses. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danohosko Posted August 17, 2014 Author Share Posted August 17, 2014 Im just going for acceleration for now really. The mods ive listed are supposed to be Pre-Remap as i dont want to be going for remaps after every mod, just get all the bits and do one remap, braking and handling can come before or after the 'remap' mods i guess. Call me naive but i thought the Brembos were meant to be plenty over-spec for any mods until you go FI, maybe then too? And handling i find is great i didnt think i would need to touch that either... Good tyres are a given, as are pads. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Chubby Ninja Posted August 17, 2014 Share Posted August 17, 2014 (edited) The final drive is not just beneficial to the drag strip, it transforms the way the car drives and I never realised how much difference a diff would do aswell til I went round a track with one fitted. Ekona is right about the order to do it bit I went the opposite, I was running 400+ bhp with crappy brakes and OEM suspension. I've upgraded now but to be honest I thought the OEM suspension was good enough for fast street but the standard brakes wernt very good if trying to slow down fast from anything over 100 Edited August 17, 2014 by The Chubby Ninja Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danohosko Posted August 17, 2014 Author Share Posted August 17, 2014 (edited) Yeah i mean i aint going for anywhere near 400bhp, with my mods i doubt i'll get over 300bhp, when you say standard brakes you mean the base or the brembos? I expect mine will only ever get fast street use though as theres no tracks within like 200 miles of Cornwall. But i get what Ekona is saying, i will deffo do pads and discs but not sure about too much on the suspension Edited August 17, 2014 by Danohosko Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ekona Posted August 17, 2014 Share Posted August 17, 2014 Okay, well if acceleration is your goal (and that's fine, btw) then I would do the following: If you're after something that's quicker from the off, then as you say tyres will make a huge difference. The other thing that will make the biggest difference is the wheels: Assuming you're running the OEM 18"s from you sig, they're about as heavy as you can get which massively blunts your acceleration. Get them changed for some Rays or similar weight wheels and you will notice a massive improvement. Aside from that, and if you're after rolling improvements then you are either going to need more power or less weight. I always prefer to do weight as it helps everything else as well (braking, handling, fuel economy) so you might think about removing some of the sound deadening, or even better get rid of those really heavy stock seats and go aftermarket. Nowt wrong with the traditional route of intake (good air filter and the velocity stack mod to the OEM airbox), exhaust (hi-flo cats and a decent cat back exhaust) and then a remap, but you're then on the wrong side of nearly £2K. If you took two cars: One with Rays with good tyres (050A or MPSS), DS2500 pads and quality discs, and with lighter seats One with £2K spent on power increases You will find that the first car is quicker everywhere, on the roads and on track. The first car will also handle better, stop quicker and be cheaper to run 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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