iLott Posted February 11, 2014 Share Posted February 11, 2014 Today came some goodies from my good friend Mitz at CS... Can't wait to get them fitted along with the superpro banana arm bushes that Mitz supplied! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mattross1313 Posted February 11, 2014 Share Posted February 11, 2014 Nice box of treats mate! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iLott Posted February 11, 2014 Author Share Posted February 11, 2014 Canny wait to go low and get my diffuser, side steps and front lip too Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DoogyRev Posted February 11, 2014 Share Posted February 11, 2014 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
14N Posted February 11, 2014 Share Posted February 11, 2014 shocking. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grundy Posted February 12, 2014 Share Posted February 12, 2014 Might be a dumb question, but what is the Shiney silver object on the card board? and what does it do? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BulletMagnet Posted February 12, 2014 Share Posted February 12, 2014 (edited) Might be a dumb question, but what is the Shiney silver object on the card board? and what does it do? The shiny thing looks like a Viair Air Compressor. Also if you look at the front coilovers, they have additional sleeves mounted near the top with air hose connectors, which leads me to believe its a hydraulic lifting system to avoid speedbumps and the like Edited February 12, 2014 by BulletMagnet Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KyleR Posted February 12, 2014 Share Posted February 12, 2014 Might be a dumb question, but what is the Shiney silver object on the card board? and what does it do? The shiny thing looks like a Viair Air Compressor. Also if you look at the front coilovers, they have additional sleeves mounted near the top with air hose connectors, which leads me to believe its a hydraulic lifting system to avoid speedbumps and the like This is what I was thinking, but what about the rear? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iLott Posted February 12, 2014 Author Share Posted February 12, 2014 Not hydraulic, pneumatic should give me a little 2 inch lift when I need it on the front. However I'm not sure in going to be able to use them with theE coilovers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jay-350z Posted February 12, 2014 Share Posted February 12, 2014 I had a static+ on my e46! They were a life saver! Make sure you grease them up nicely other wise the creak. Why might you not be able to use then? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iLott Posted February 12, 2014 Author Share Posted February 12, 2014 Well i'll try to explain. If you see the coilovers up top, the way you lower the ride height is to physically make the strut smaller rather than slaken the spring off and let the shaft sink down into the damper body. This means that the damper shaft is shorter and has limited travel. So if i was to slacken the spring off by two inches to compensate (probably wont be two inches because of the spring compressing once on the car) then that limits the travel of the coilover shaft in the body and if i'm right will not be a very comfortable ride (could be wrong there). Not to mention it says not to do this as it can drastically shorten life of the coilover. I do plead to anyone to convince me otherwise if i've missed anything and if i'm beinbg a bit of a dumb dumb! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BulletMagnet Posted February 12, 2014 Share Posted February 12, 2014 I used to think the ride height was controlled by the golden collars which you adjust with the c-spanners and the only thing you adjust from the top is the dampening force. My only experience with coilovers is with Tein Basic Street Dampers tho on a Honda Prelude, so I don't know if it different, but would have thought the basic principle would be the same. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BulletMagnet Posted February 12, 2014 Share Posted February 12, 2014 (edited) Do you have rubbing issues on the front of your car when turning? Is your car aesthetically lowered to you likings however you can’t get over speed bumps or up your own driveway? Is your car lowered but not as low as you would like it to be due to everyday obstacles? If you answered “YES†to one of these questions then look no further as aircups many solve your problem(s). Aircups are pneumatic cylinders, which when filled and emptied with compressed air, extend and retract an internal piston, which compresses or decompresses the coil-spring. This action allows the driver to lift or lower their vehicle at the flip of a switch. This method of adjustable ride height allows for an extremely consistent suspension response over other air ride methods. The amount of lift or lowering capability is based off the stroke length of the aircup assembly. We offer both 1/2″ and 1″ stroke aircups as this retains the best combination of ride height adjustment, ride quality, and alignment specifications. Each pair of aircups when conjoined with coilovers will allow for two different setup options. Either of the following setups can be achieved using the same aircups however, only one of the two options is possible at a time. Additional Lift This setup works great for those who are content with their current ride height but have clearance issues in everyday use. After installation and spring preload is set adjust your your driving ride height with the aircups decompressed. When you then allow compressed air into the aircups the internal piston will extend thus raising the car the stroke amount of the aircups (1/2″ or 1″ depending on what you purchased) allowing better clearance for any objects that you may need to drive over or any inclines that you may need to go up. This setup option will make no physical change to the suspension’s ride quality, response or performance, as the aircups will be decompressed until needed. If they didn't work, then I doubt AirCups would offer the BC Racing/AirCup combo on their own site, so it has to work, right? Do you need an airtank with this setup or does it plumb straight from the compressor to the lifters? Edited February 12, 2014 by BulletMagnet Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KyleR Posted February 12, 2014 Share Posted February 12, 2014 (edited) So is the spring resting on this thing instead of the top mount, so to speak? Then when it wants to raise, it expands putting pressure on the spring and top mount, expanding the damper, lifting the car? Hmmm, does that sound healthy for a damper to be under the full load of the car and stretched? Edited February 12, 2014 by KyleR Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BulletMagnet Posted February 12, 2014 Share Posted February 12, 2014 So is the spring resting on this thing instead of the top mount, so to speak? Then when it wants to raise, it expands putting pressure on the spring and top mount, expanding the damper, lifting the car? Hmmm, does that sound healthy for a damper to be under the full load of the car and stretched? you're not expanding the damper.You basically remove the top mount off the coilover, ad the lifter to the top mount and then the whole assembly is the top mount. So when you raise the car it just lifts, and the shock extends normally was if you had long travel. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
evilscorp Posted February 12, 2014 Share Posted February 12, 2014 Well i'll try to explain. If you see the coilovers up top, the way you lower the ride height is to physically make the strut smaller rather than slaken the spring off and let the shaft sink down into the damper body. This means that the damper shaft is shorter and has limited travel. So if i was to slacken the spring off by two inches to compensate (probably wont be two inches because of the spring compressing once on the car) then that limits the travel of the coilover shaft in the body and if i'm right will not be a very comfortable ride (could be wrong there). Not to mention it says not to do this as it can drastically shorten life of the coilover. I do plead to anyone to convince me otherwise if i've missed anything and if i'm beinbg a bit of a dumb dumb! The bottom part of the suspension can be screwed off, it doesn't affect the range the piston inside can move, it is basically a mounting bracket that can be screwed up or down to adjust the ride height. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KyleR Posted February 12, 2014 Share Posted February 12, 2014 So is the spring resting on this thing instead of the top mount, so to speak? Then when it wants to raise, it expands putting pressure on the spring and top mount, expanding the damper, lifting the car? Hmmm, does that sound healthy for a damper to be under the full load of the car and stretched? you're not expanding the damper.You basically remove the top mount off the coilover, ad the lifter to the top mount and then the whole assembly is the top mount. So when you raise the car it just lifts, and the shock extends normally was if you had long travel. Ahhhh gotcha So could easily be used on the rear also then? Might be an option for me in the future then Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iLott Posted February 12, 2014 Author Share Posted February 12, 2014 Do you have rubbing issues on the front of your car when turning? Is your car aesthetically lowered to you likings however you can’t get over speed bumps or up your own driveway? Is your car lowered but not as low as you would like it to be due to everyday obstacles? If you answered “YES†to one of these questions then look no further as aircups many solve your problem(s). Aircups are pneumatic cylinders, which when filled and emptied with compressed air, extend and retract an internal piston, which compresses or decompresses the coil-spring. This action allows the driver to lift or lower their vehicle at the flip of a switch. This method of adjustable ride height allows for an extremely consistent suspension response over other air ride methods. The amount of lift or lowering capability is based off the stroke length of the aircup assembly. We offer both 1/2″ and 1″ stroke aircups as this retains the best combination of ride height adjustment, ride quality, and alignment specifications. Each pair of aircups when conjoined with coilovers will allow for two different setup options. Either of the following setups can be achieved using the same aircups however, only one of the two options is possible at a time. Additional Lift This setup works great for those who are content with their current ride height but have clearance issues in everyday use. After installation and spring preload is set adjust your your driving ride height with the aircups decompressed. When you then allow compressed air into the aircups the internal piston will extend thus raising the car the stroke amount of the aircups (1/2″ or 1″ depending on what you purchased) allowing better clearance for any objects that you may need to drive over or any inclines that you may need to go up. This setup option will make no physical change to the suspension’s ride quality, response or performance, as the aircups will be decompressed until needed. If they didn't work, then I doubt AirCups would offer the BC Racing/AirCup combo on their own site, so it has to work, right? Do you need an airtank with this setup or does it plumb straight from the compressor to the lifters? True but my air cups allow a two inch lift. maybe i'll have to adjust the spring collars aswell about an inch to allow the damper shaft to extend the extra bit when under the action of the cup. It's hard to explain but imagine if the car weighed nothing and the coilover is on the car and sits normal. If i was to pressurise the cup i wouldnt get any lift because the damper shaft is already fully extended, so all that would happen would be that the spring will compress. So effectively i only have the amount that the car is going to compress the spring, which the car will lift by. Hope this makes sense :/ hard to put it into words! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jay-350z Posted February 12, 2014 Share Posted February 12, 2014 Right I see your thinking now, I think, they will be fine, I had a identical set up on my e46, basically it was crazy low with them down, and I had no travel in the shock as I had removed the bumps stops to allow it to go as low as possible, then when I raised it 2" it was actually quite comfortable. It doues not effect the spring, the spring won't move or compress more when lifted, it basically lifts the top mount higher if that makes any sense. Just remember when you do the tracking do it at what ever hight you will drive them at, as when I let all the air out of mine it would tow in and camber in a lot, not that I could drive it when it was down, as the subframe would drag. Ha. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GMballistic Posted February 12, 2014 Share Posted February 12, 2014 All I have to add to this is, cooool. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iLott Posted February 12, 2014 Author Share Posted February 12, 2014 We'll see, once I've fitted them I'll post up a some more pics and maybe a video Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BulletMagnet Posted February 12, 2014 Share Posted February 12, 2014 (edited) When the car is static the damper will still have a compression of the standard weight of the vehicle, hence when you check your shocks you can bounce them and there is no contact within the shocks components on rebound. Otherwise you'd hear a knock if the internal shaft were to hit the top of the shock/damper housing. You won't be pulling off the top of your shock iLott, you are worrying too much Edited February 12, 2014 by BulletMagnet Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KyleR Posted February 13, 2014 Share Posted February 13, 2014 More to the point, how much did the 2 cups and compressor cost and do you need an air tank? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BulletMagnet Posted February 13, 2014 Share Posted February 13, 2014 Seen a 2nd hand setup over at m3cutters go for £600 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iLott Posted February 13, 2014 Author Share Posted February 13, 2014 I got mine for £400 posted, then £174 posted for a Viair 380c and £35 for a tank. Add the rest of the fittings like pressure switch, reducing bushes, Safety valve, Drain **** etc... I reckon £650 all in? I know i'm not going to pull my shock apart or anything like that! My only worry is I won't get a big enough lift to be beneficial. I've bought it all now so i'll see what happens once i've fitted it all! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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