Daze Posted August 28, 2011 Share Posted August 28, 2011 Hey guys, In the middle of a dilemma with either thinking of selling my 350 or beginning to modify it, so just putting some feelers out there, and getting some ideas together. Thinking of potentially buying some nice rims & coilovers and lowering it a fair bit. However, just wondering how much the 350's can be dropped by before they start to be too effected by handling? Of course, the camber & toe will be put out when I lower, but how far is "reasonable" before things get silly? And has anyone done a serious drop with no camber/toe adjustments - how does the car feel? Second question, coilover choice, are these any good? >> http://www.japspeed.co.uk/Nissan-350Z-D ... s/p-0-873/ Or is it worth the extra and go for HSD's? >> http://www.driftworks.com/shop/hsd-hr-c ... z-z33.html My car is used daily/fast-road, Cheers guys Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
R35LEE Posted August 28, 2011 Share Posted August 28, 2011 Ask Matt Bowey as we slammed his 350 so it could cut grass! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daze Posted August 28, 2011 Author Share Posted August 28, 2011 Haha, nice. Actually, to contradict myself a bit, just done some reading & looking, a 30mm drop on lowering springs looks pretty good. And in fairness this still my daily. Although it would look good on stock Rays wheels, I'm unsure just a 30mm drop would look any good on my "new wheels idea", since I'd be running a lower profile, therefore more gap. Also done some reading - BC Racing Coilovers - seem cheap & people say they're good? Any thoughts/comments? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BulletMagnet Posted August 28, 2011 Share Posted August 28, 2011 At 30mm drop, you will deffo need to get camber correction kits. AFAIK even the Eibach Springs that go 20mm need them already. Camber correction bolts for the rear and adjustable a-arms for the front, I think. Only went for a mild drop myself on Tein springs and thus not needing either. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris`I Posted August 28, 2011 Share Posted August 28, 2011 Although it would look good on stock Rays wheels, I'm unsure just a 30mm drop would look any good on my "new wheels idea", since I'd be running a lower profile, therefore more gap. This should be done with caution. The stock TCS is very touchy about rolling radius of tyres, particularly in relation to the ration of front vs back rolling radius. If you want to run a lower profile tyre, typically you'd install wheels which are bigger. Ie move from 18" to 19" and run lower profile while keeping the same rolling radius. This way you wont effect the gap or TCS but have a nicer looking setup Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Neilp Posted August 28, 2011 Share Posted August 28, 2011 At 30mm drop, you will deffo need to get camber correction kits.AFAIK even the Eibach Springs that go 20mm need them already. Camber correction bolts for the rear and adjustable a-arms for the front, I think. Only went for a mild drop myself on Tein springs and thus not needing either. Eibachs state 25mm drop but they are more like 30mm drop Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zugara Posted August 28, 2011 Share Posted August 28, 2011 On the other topic the OP asked. If you are thinking of selling, you already have doubts, why do you want to spend serious cash on it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
glrnet Posted August 28, 2011 Share Posted August 28, 2011 PM Wasso, he's dropped his 30mm and doesn't have any problems as far as I know, not sure what he did about camber correction though Haha, nice. Actually, to contradict myself a bit, just done some reading & looking, a 30mm drop on lowering springs looks pretty good. And in fairness this still my daily. Although it would look good on stock Rays wheels, I'm unsure just a 30mm drop would look any good on my "new wheels idea", since I'd be running a lower profile, therefore more gap. Also done some reading - BC Racing Coilovers - seem cheap & people say they're good? Any thoughts/comments? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trackpig Posted August 28, 2011 Share Posted August 28, 2011 Mine is dropped 20-25mm all round on bc's. I have lower profile tyres on at the moment 235/40/18 front and 255/35/18 rear. I did not require camber kits to get within nissan spec geo and I have not had any TCS problems. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daze Posted August 28, 2011 Author Share Posted August 28, 2011 Nice thanks for the replies. What's TCS though? Lol. Traction control I guess? Then I'll just turn it off with my new setup. New wheels might be something like 18x10 with 265/35 Tyres, means 15mm drop, so fair bit less rolling radius. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daze Posted August 28, 2011 Author Share Posted August 28, 2011 Also people saying that I absolutely need camber correction etc. Do I really though? I mean, my drift/track car is an s13 and I slammed that with no camber arms, lots of camber very far from factory settings and it felt great. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris`I Posted August 28, 2011 Share Posted August 28, 2011 Nice thanks for the replies. What's TCS though? Lol. Traction control I guess? Then I'll just turn it off with my new setup. New wheels might be something like 18x10 with 265/35 Tyres, means 15mm drop, so fair bit less rolling radius. Just keep the ratio of rolling radius front to back the same as OEM and the TCS (traction control) wont be a problem. Saying you will just turn it off all the time is asking for trouble. If you have a crash and the insurance find out you had TCS off then you may not be covered. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keyser Posted August 28, 2011 Share Posted August 28, 2011 Also people saying that I absolutely need camber correction etc. Do I really though? I mean, my drift/track car is an s13 and I slammed that with no camber arms, lots of camber very far from factory settings and it felt great. If your using your 350 as a drift car your going to be eating tyres and it really won't matter - If you want to use it on the road at best it will wear tyres quicker at worst it won't handel well at all. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
martinmac Posted August 28, 2011 Share Posted August 28, 2011 No problems with a 30mm drop. The handling on mine has a much better feel. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daze Posted August 28, 2011 Author Share Posted August 28, 2011 Nice thanks for the replies. What's TCS though? Lol. Traction control I guess? Then I'll just turn it off with my new setup. New wheels might be something like 18x10 with 265/35 Tyres, means 15mm drop, so fair bit less rolling radius. Just keep the ratio of rolling radius front to back the same as OEM and the TCS (traction control) wont be a problem. Saying you will just turn it off all the time is asking for trouble. If you have a crash and the insurance find out you had TCS off then you may not be covered. Hm are you talking about the relation between front & back? I notice my current setup does indeed have different profile tyres front & back, however I also know the Rays are different widths too. I defiantly won't be running with the same profile tyres or similar tyre fitment to OEM as they're so chunky, I will be going for more stretch, as to tuck the tyre better under the fender. I can't see me having problems with TCS off, I don't find the 350 very tail happy even when off and I'm used to my s13 which I use for drifting - 290hp, welded diff, etc. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daze Posted August 28, 2011 Author Share Posted August 28, 2011 Also people saying that I absolutely need camber correction etc. Do I really though? I mean, my drift/track car is an s13 and I slammed that with no camber arms, lots of camber very far from factory settings and it felt great. If your using your 350 as a drift car your going to be eating tyres and it really won't matter - If you want to use it on the road at best it will wear tyres quicker at worst it won't handel well at all. Nice. I won't be using it for drifting, but replacing tyres every 6 months(??) due to camber is fine with me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris`I Posted August 28, 2011 Share Posted August 28, 2011 I'm talking about rolling radius, not width of tyres. For the car to understand if the rear wheels are spinning it monitors the speed of the front and rear wheels (rear wheels spin faster, then TCS will kick in). Now as standard, the rear wheels have a bigger rolling radius than the fronts (IIRC there is a 3% difference). For the TCS to keep working you need to factor in this difference and keep it the same. As soon as you change it (more than a percent or two) it will get confused. Now the absolute rolling radius doesnt matter, what you need to keep in mind is the percentage difference front to rear wheels. I've written a detailed comparison before so give it a search and you'll find the numbers. You can run non OEM rolling radius so long as you keep this relation of front to rear correct Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daze Posted August 28, 2011 Author Share Posted August 28, 2011 Ah that's awesome, makes a lot more sense. I will have to go check my current setup & do some calculations! Thanks for clearing that up! Brilliant. Just unsure now if I will need more than a 30mm drop - lowering springs or coilovers. Hmm Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daze Posted August 28, 2011 Author Share Posted August 28, 2011 Right, done some calculations. Correct me if I'm wrong here (been using www.willtheyfit.com for this) Current setup, 225/45 8j and 245/45 8.5j radius difference = 2.66% New potential setups 265/35 10.5j and 285/35 10.5 = 2.13% (favourite so far) 245/35 10.5j and 265/35 10.5j = 2.18% 255/30 10.5j and 285/30 10.5j = 2.87% Any thoughts for thoughts? Cheers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daze Posted August 28, 2011 Author Share Posted August 28, 2011 Talking of rolling radius, etc. Just found this pic, which I like. Which is 9.5j front and 10.5j rear, with 275/35 all round - meaning 0 difference front/rear.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lum Posted August 28, 2011 Share Posted August 28, 2011 u might run into some rubbing issues with 275.s on a 9.5 rim on the front, unless the offset is quite high! This is how low i run mine and that is on the Daiyama coilovers that you mentioned on your first post, they seem a very good road setup so far, low spring rates so not harsh either. Not as good as the CS2's on my R34 but id say there better ride quality than the Tein's i used to have on that! I had the alignment checked on mine last week, just have standard adjustment available so brought the Toe back in to spec & left the camber at around 4 degrees negative on the rear, drives fine. Obviously not as much rear grip as you'd have available with a more upright tyre but not really an issue. Also i didnt really wory about tyre sizes & rolling radius, if the TCS doesnt like it then i'll turn it off but it seems ok with 215-35-19 on a 9.5J front & 245-35-19 on a 10.5J rear Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beau Posted August 28, 2011 Share Posted August 28, 2011 Right, done some calculations. Correct me if I'm wrong here (been using http://www.willtheyfit.com for this) Current setup, 225/45 8j and 245/45 8.5j radius difference = 2.66% New potential setups 265/35 10.5j and 285/35 10.5 = 2.13% (favourite so far) 245/35 10.5j and 265/35 10.5j = 2.18% 255/30 10.5j and 285/30 10.5j = 2.87% Any thoughts for thoughts? Cheers. I run the 265 35 in front and 285 35's rear and have no problem all on a 9.5j rims with a offset of 15. No issues or rubbing. I rekon I could even get away with 275's in front as well but thats too wide for the front. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daze Posted August 29, 2011 Author Share Posted August 29, 2011 Nice, thanks for the replies everyone. Very helpful, gives me something to work on now, awesome. Lum - any more pics of your car? Looks very low & pretty awesome, I probably won't be going as low as that, since I have a slight driveway to get up & down everyday, and I know if I were that low it wouldn't happen Beau - awesome, thanks for the info RE tyre sizes. I'm now thinking of going staggered 9.5j front, 10.5j rears, so probably same tyre sizes as said above, but on different rim widths, should be perfect. Although - like I said, the silver 350 above has the same tyre profiles on 9.5 and 10.5j's, yet that measured to have 0% front/back ratio, so surely must interfere with the TCS? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daze Posted August 29, 2011 Author Share Posted August 29, 2011 9.5j 265/35 and 10.5j 285/35 = 2.13% ratio. ~ or 9.5j 255/35 and 10.5j 275/35 = 2.15% ratio. easy, that's happenin' Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris`I Posted August 29, 2011 Share Posted August 29, 2011 Both sound about right for TCS to be happy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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