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polaris' '07 350Z GT Log


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I thought I might as well start one of these although I'm not sure how frequently I'll post updates.

 

On 08/04/2022 I became the proud 3rd owner of this black 2007 Nissan 350Z GT which I brought from @jr6yam at a low 56,831 miles. I never thought I'd own a Z as I always had my eye on a grey Golf R but in the end I decided to go for something with a little more character (and much cheaper!). Regardless, a 3.5L V6 is plenty of car for someone my age.

 

Link to original sale post by @jr6yam.

 

Further Details

Manufactured: Japan on 10/08/2006

Registered in the UK: 02/03/2007

Colour: Ebisu Black

 

Current Modifications (as of editing)

  • Milltek Resonated Cat-Back System
  • SGS Boot Struts
  • Honda S2000 Short Antenna
  • Sony XAV-AX5650 head unit (integrates with the existing steering wheel controls)
  • Auto Folding Mirror Mod
  • Goodridge Braided Brake Lines (Front & Rear)
  • Stoptech Discs (Front)

 

And that's it! The previous owner kept the car pretty much stock with the tasteful modification here and there. I intend to follow the same path.

 

Since I bought the Z, it has had a 3-year ceramic coat applied, a paint correction and a full detail (04/05/2022) which cost me £400 in total. I've done a few other miscellaneous bits and pieces such as applying Gummi Pflege to all the seals/rubber and putting in a new high-flow HKS air filter.

 

Future Jobs

- Removing two (now four) broken bleed nipples as they both sheared off during removal. In progress.

- Replacing all the bleed nipples with much stronger titanium alternatives to prevent the above from happening in the future. In progress.

- Replacing both front fender protectors (and hardware) as the two bolts on both sides have fused to the U clips. I can't even take the front bumper off at the moment. Done.

 

First photo was taken the day I brought it home.

 

20220408_191058.jpg

Edited by polaris
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Posted (edited)

04/05/2022: The Z had a full detail, paint correction and 3 year ceramic coat done by Lee @ Demon Detailing which cost £400. The paint correction really gave the car a breath of new life.

 

Yes, I know the photos are sideways. Changing the rotation didn't do anything 😐

 

 

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Edited by polaris
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Posted (edited)

My first car alongside the new Z. Unfortunately the trusty 2009 Aygo had to go upon my new acquisition. Before the Aygo went, I thought it fitting the get a photo of them together.

 

20220428_114956.jpg

Edited by polaris
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Posted (edited)

18/05/2022: A new Sony XAV-AX5650 head unit was installed so I could use Android Auto. The head unit and steering loom (to integrate with the existing steering wheel controls) both cost £504. Installation was done by Huets which cost another £210.

 

20220519_175710.jpg

Edited by polaris
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Posted (edited)
On 12/07/2022 at 22:41, MONKEYSOCKS said:

Looks great mate! Where did you get the paint correction and ceramic coat for that price if you don't mind me asking? 

 

Appreciate it! [Redacted] did a cracking job. Do note that he recently raised his prices so I'm not sure if he still does the full package for £400.

Edited by polaris
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Posted (edited)

Today at the beach. Lee comes in every 3 weeks or so for a maintenance wash so looking nice and clean.

 

20220715_210936.jpg

Edited by polaris
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Posted (edited)
9 hours ago, jr6yam said:

Good to see I sold it to the right person 😁

Glad you're looking after the old girl. Keeping the spreadsheet up to date?

 

I'm pleased you approve. I thought I'd modernise the spreadsheet approach so I switched over to Fuelio. Does all that the spreadsheet did on my phone and, most importantly, no need to save receipts!

 

Screenshot_20220721-224330_Fuelio.jpg

Edited by polaris
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Posted (edited)

Replaced both front wheel arch protectors as some floor bolts had seized to the U clips which prevented the front bumper from being removed. Hardware (bolts, washers etc.) were also replaced.

 

20220721_195335.jpg

Edited by polaris
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Posted (edited)

I had a crack at a full exterior detail. No need to spend £40 just for a maintenance wash. Interior next!

 

I used the two bucket method and flipped the mitt after a few wipes. Most of the surface dirt and debris came off during the pre-wash due to the ceramic coating. My rinse bucket was pretty much clear after I'd finished!

 

Products

Pre-wash: Bilt Hamber Touch-less snow-foam (2:3)

Soap: Autoglym Bodywork Shampoo Conditioner

Wheels: Car-Chem Iron DeTox, Bilt Hamber Surfex HD (1:10) and Autoglym Instant Tyre Dressing

Wash Mitt: Gyeon Q²M Smoothie

Wheel Mitt: Gyeon Q²M Wheel Mitt

Drying Towel: Purestar Duplex

 

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Edited by polaris
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  • polaris changed the title to polaris' '07 350Z GT Log
  • 2 weeks later...
Posted (edited)

A while back I sheared off a brake bleed screw trying to bleed a caliper. I wanted to get this sorted quickly so I decided to replace them all with stronger titanium bleed screws. Despite the fact I applied copious amounts of WD-40 Penetrant and lightly tapped each screw with a hammer, three more sheared off at around 50NM :( At least the new screws looks great...

 

Any ideas on the best way to get these out? I was thinking drill out as much material as possible then hit them with a high-quality screw extractor. Might re-tap depending on the quality of the threads.

 

 

New titanium bleed screw and genuine Brembo dust cap:

20220805_141147.jpg

 

Old Brembo bleed screws:

20220805_141221.jpg

 

The worst outcome:

20220805_150915.jpg

Edited by polaris
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Sorry to see this pal, one of the rear inner bleed nipples on mine weren't budging so left it be at the recent brake fluid change. Take it you're replacing the inner caliper nipples also? 

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Posted (edited)
On 06/08/2022 at 11:21, davey_83 said:

Sorry to see this pal, one of the rear inner bleed nipples on mine weren't budging so left it be at the recent brake fluid change. Take it you're replacing the inner caliper nipples also? 

 

Yep, replacing both screws on each caliper. The last brake fluid change was back in 2019 so I reckon someone just ridiculously over-torqued them. The service manual states 13.5NM but I've found these titanium screws require at least 20NM to stop brake fluid from escaping. Could be due to a slightly different screw shape or damage to the caliper threads.

 

I could trying welding a nut on...

Edited by polaris
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Posted (edited)
On 06/08/2022 at 13:57, harrison140 said:

Welding a nut on will work I done it years ago on a bike the heat make's the aluminium of the caliper expand as well if you turn it while it's still hot 

 

Think I'll have to take the caliper off? I'm thinking: disconnect brake line, drain fluid from caliper, weld nut, remove, sorted.

Edited by polaris
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  • 2 weeks later...
Posted (edited)

Just a quick update: I spoke to a local engineering shop who offered to weld/mill out the 4 sheared brake bleed screws for £100. Only issue is that I now need to take 3 of the 4 calliper's off to give to them... fun times.

Edited by polaris
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  • 2 weeks later...

Slowly changing the 16 year-old power steering fluid with genuine Nissan Power Steering Fluid (KE909-99931). I'm doing it piecemeal over the course of the next few weeks to ensure most of the original fluid is changed. I've completed two PSF reservoir changes so far and the steering already feels much smoother. Though admittedly, this could be placebo talking.

 

This was partly changed due to an issue with the PSF bubbling/boiling after a semi-spirited drive so I'm hoping this will sort it. See a video of the problem here. After changing the fluid, with the engine on and front wheels in the air, there is a slight but noticeable juddering when turning the steering left to near full-lock. Weirdly, this refuses to repeat itself when turning the steering full-lock to the right. Any ideas? If so, why does this only occur to the left? See update below.

 

UPDATE: The steering now judders slightly at low speeds (<5 mph). I'm thinking a bit of air in the system or possibly the fresh fluid is less viscous and thus letting air in somehow? I never started the car when replacing the fluid to avoid running the PS pump dry but I did alternate the steering full-lock left and right to squeeze out as much fluid as possible. As always, I appreciate any advice.

 

After numerous Google searches, I have concluded that there's air in the power steering system. Thankfully, this is an easy fix by alternating the steering full-lock left and right several times with the car on the ground. I'll give it a go tomorrow and report back!

 

Old power steering fluid (assuming 2006 original):

20220901_132133.jpg

 

New genuine Nissan power steering fluid:

20220901_132656.jpg

Edited by polaris
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Hi, we always use to top up the fluid to max (say if a rack, pas pump or lines were being replaced) and then start the engine so the pump is doing it thing working the steering slowly from lock to lock, topping up along the way. Pump needs to be working in order the bleed the system effectively. 

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3 hours ago, davey_83 said:

Hi, we always use to top up the fluid to max (say if a rack, pas pump or lines were being replaced) and then start the engine so the pump is doing it thing working the steering slowly from lock to lock, topping up along the way. Pump needs to be working in order the bleed the system effectively. 

 

Thanks Dave, the juddering is slowly disappearing which I assume is air being worked out of the system. A quick drive around some bendy roads and following your advice did the trick.

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On 03/09/2022 at 19:27, davey_83 said:

Nice one pal. How did you drain the old fluid initially? 

 

I used one of these kits to suck out all the fluid in the PSF reservoir. I believe the reservoir only holds roughly 1/3 of the total volume so I'm not getting it all out but I wanted to keep it simple. In a few weeks, once new is mixed with old, I'll do one last change which should remove a bit more old fluid.

 

I can confidentially say that the steering is now much smoother and lighter. Only downside now is that each pothole gives more feedback to the steering :)

Edited by polaris
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