polaris Posted December 13, 2022 Author Share Posted December 13, 2022 (edited) On 12/12/2022 at 20:54, davey_83 said: Bare in mind all mpg will go down a margin in the autumn/winter months for obvious reasons. I've never seen anyone with a catch can plumbed in correctly say it's a waste of time. It helps reduce the amount of oily mist going into the intake, I mentioned it as yours seem to have a fair amount present. I've ran this one for a number of years with no issues, just upgraded the lines to better oil hoses. https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B07N2NZZTF?tag=picclick02-21&linkCode=osi&th=1&psc=1 I didn't think the intake plenum looked too bad to be fair. The oil you see is completely baked onto the plenum; I ran my finger over it and nothing came off. Leads me to believe it's not 'fresh' oil and that it has been there a while or built up slowly over time. @DaveDankness' comment on this video made me think twice. Quote Not on a 350z, these engines are port injected, and spray their intake valves with fuel which keeps them fairly clean. In fact, the OEM intake manifold design on these is meant to catch most of that oil, and what little oil finds it's way to the cylinders is just extra lubrication. Catch cans are really only helpful on direct injection motors, which do not have any cleaning effect on the intake valves. I took my entire intake manifold off just recently on mine to replace a valve cover and some sensors, and the intake valves looked almost shiny clean at 110k miles. This forum post from the US owners don't seem too convinced either. What do you think? Any sense to it? Edited December 14, 2022 by polaris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
polaris Posted December 18, 2022 Author Share Posted December 18, 2022 (edited) Finally got the calipers sorted so I can actually change the brake fluid now. The four stuck bleed nipples were no match for the power of welding. Also, got the Berk HFC's fitted, sound clips coming soon! Welding trophies Fixed calipers Lovely patina finish Edited May 27, 2023 by polaris 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
polaris Posted January 16, 2023 Author Share Posted January 16, 2023 (edited) P3 service and 4-wheel alignment today at Horsham Developments. - Oil & Oil Filter - Clutch fluid - Brake fluid - Coolant - Gearbox fluid (+ Liqui Moly Molyslip) - Differential fluid On another note, I've got a new project 😀 1995 Suzuki Cappuccino Edited February 25, 2023 by polaris 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
polaris Posted February 25, 2023 Author Share Posted February 25, 2023 (edited) Noticed some condensation inside the P/S headlight so I got to work. Replaced the actuator seal (bottom of headlight) and the main cover (rear of headlight; disc shaped) on both headlights. Off the back of a recommendation from @Olly350z, I put both headlights in the airing cupboard overnight which worked a treat. The moisture had completely evaporated from the P/S headlight when I checked it the next morning. I should've taken an after photo but it just looks like a stock headlight now 😆 It's a bit of a mess in the garage at the moment; I've been wrenching away on my new Cappuccino. Front bumper off Headlight Replacing actuator seal Replacing main cover Edited February 25, 2023 by polaris 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Olly350z Posted March 3, 2023 Share Posted March 3, 2023 Glad the old airing cupboard trick mate, I'm sure with the new seals that should be the end of your condensation issues. Been such a wet winter we've seen alot of dry cars coming back in with condensation issues. You could always put a silica pack in the offending unit in the future should it come back 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
polaris Posted May 14, 2023 Author Share Posted May 14, 2023 (edited) It's been a minute. I've been quite busy keeping the Z on the road. First, the A/C belt split right down the middle. I think the tensioners are worn but I didn't have new parts to hand so I cleaned them up the best I could. Replaced both belts with Gates. I'll also replace both tensioners soon. Split A/C belt New dual-channel belt technology Gates belts All fitted Nice and clean tensioner Second, I noticed the P/S radiator fan wasn't spinning and the D/S fan was a bit slow. I followed the forum guide to fix them but to no avail (funnily enough, the D/S motor stopped working and the P/S motor started working). Nissan wanted something ridiculous like £250 per motor but you can get near identical replacements on eBay for £40. The only negative I found was that the wiring is slightly longer. Failed fix attempt Cleaning the radiator shroud Spotless OEM Motor (left) vs eBay motor (right) New motors fitted Edited May 31, 2023 by polaris 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davey_83 Posted May 15, 2023 Share Posted May 15, 2023 A job well done, nice preventive measure. Not seen an aux belt go like that before too. Nice lightweight crank pulley would have done the trick while you were down there 😁 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
polaris Posted May 15, 2023 Author Share Posted May 15, 2023 3 hours ago, davey_83 said: A job well done, nice preventive measure. Not seen an aux belt go like that before too. Nice lightweight crank pulley would have done the trick while you were down there 😁 Thanks. I did consider a lightweight crank pulley but I read somewhere about losing the harmonic balance? Tarmac do a nice full set so I might replace them when I sort the tensioners. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davey_83 Posted May 15, 2023 Share Posted May 15, 2023 1 hour ago, polaris said: Thanks. I did consider a lightweight crank pulley but I read somewhere about losing the harmonic balance? Tarmac do a nice full set so I might replace them when I sort the tensioners. Internet hearsay as the VQ35 is internally balanced. Z1 Motorsport (the biggest name in Z scene worldwide) supply and fit lightweight crank pulleys for our engines and have done for years and years. If folks were complaining about engine failures, rightly seeking compensation they wouldn't still be selling them, poor business model. https://www.z1motorsports.com/z1-products/z1-motorsports/z1-350z-g35-vq35-lightweight-crank-pulley-p-5494.html I have the VMS unit on my DE and have done for a few years, no issues at all. Fast road driving, Dyno pulls, recommend it to anyone. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
polaris Posted May 15, 2023 Author Share Posted May 15, 2023 1 hour ago, davey_83 said: Internet hearsay as the VQ35 is internally balanced. Z1 Motorsport (the biggest name in Z scene worldwide) supply and fit lightweight crank pulleys for our engines and have done for years and years. If folks were complaining about engine failures, rightly seeking compensation they wouldn't still be selling them, poor business model. https://www.z1motorsports.com/z1-products/z1-motorsports/z1-350z-g35-vq35-lightweight-crank-pulley-p-5494.html I have the VMS unit on my DE and have done for a few years, no issues at all. Fast road driving, Dyno pulls, recommend it to anyone. Looks like I'll get a set then! Do you notice any difference? Reckon I should import Z1's or just get Tarmac's? TORQEN also do a few different brands. What do you recommend? Thanks 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davey_83 Posted May 15, 2023 Share Posted May 15, 2023 The below from my build thread, coming up to 3 years since fitment. Can't comment on the ones from Tarmacsportz, however AMS, Unorthodox Racing, Stillen are all top brands as showing with Torqen. I went for the VMS item and it's very good also. eBay link Rolling on/off the throttle feels more fluid if that makes sense. I guess that touch easier now asking the big VQ to go from declaration to acceleration. Revs out quicker and so pulls just that touch harder. When pulling away normally, now feels smoother on take-up *always personally struggled with this. Even part throttle feels keen to build rpm. I would say it's made more of a difference to acceleration than any individual engine/exhaust mod thus far. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
polaris Posted May 27, 2023 Author Share Posted May 27, 2023 (edited) Another busy week with the Z. The wear sensor on one of the D/S rear pads started grinding against the disc. I then realised that they were the OEM discs from the factory! Quite a large lip had developed from the many brake pads over the years so I knew they had to go. I don't like taking half measures so I went with some nice StopTech slotted discs and DBA pads from Tarmac Sportz. I also bought new calliper hardware (pins, cross springs & clips) from TORQEN. Big thanks to Chris @ Tarmac Sportz. He sorted me out with a great deal on short notice. All 4 brake dust shields are crumbling away. I plan to powder coat some new dust shields so they should last much longer and look the business. Products StopTech Slotted Discs (ST126.42079SL+R) DBA Street Pads (DB1521SS) Liqui Moly 3074 Anti-Squeal Brake Paste Liqui Moly 3318 Rapid Brake Cleaner Brass & steel wire brushes Dremel 442 carbon steel brushes StopTech Slotted Discs & DBA Street Pads Products I assumed the contact point between the wheel hub assemblies and discs was going to be pretty rough. Bought some brushes and carbon steel Dremel attachments to get them back to clean and shiny. The beginning Old D/S Brake Pads Either one brake pad was replaced and not the other or maybe it froze it place? Possibly the previous mechanic didn't properly clean, prepare and grease the pads? Old P/S Brake Pads Same story. Could one of the calliper pistons have seized up? I'll keep a close eye on the new pads. D/S Wheel Hub Assembly After cleaning Liqui Moly Anti-squeal brake paste Disc & calliper back on Brake pads in P/S Wheel Hub Assembly Cleaned and lathered up New disc on Same as D/S Edited June 3, 2023 by polaris 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
polaris Posted May 30, 2023 Author Share Posted May 30, 2023 (edited) UpRev tune today @ Horsham Developments. Final result was a hair over 300 HP. I thought it be best to get it UpRev'd as I'd done a few breather mods. I'm not sure how this compares to other 350Z RevUp's but Jez said it was putting out a good number. Car also feels much happier to build RPM in lower gears. Modifications: HKS air filter Berk HFCs H-Dev plenum spacer Miltek cat-back exhaust Flywheel Power (HP) Power (HP) Edited June 3, 2023 by polaris 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davey_83 Posted May 31, 2023 Share Posted May 31, 2023 Gorgeous bump in torque across the rev range with a nice slab of 25lb-ft extra, where you spend 95% of the time 👌 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
polaris Posted June 18, 2023 Author Share Posted June 18, 2023 (edited) A proper headlight restoration. Lights were sanded back and then automotive clear coat was applied. Done by a friend of the family so didn't cost me a penny. Really makes the entire car look better. Noticed the bonnet latch assembly was pretty dirty and full of old grease so I cleaned that up too. Fresh grease was applied to the contact points and moving parts. P/S Before D/S Before D/S After P/S After After After Before After Edited June 18, 2023 by polaris 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davey_83 Posted June 19, 2023 Share Posted June 19, 2023 That's took years off her look, made such a difference. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hansburger Posted June 19, 2023 Share Posted June 19, 2023 Looking good again! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
polaris Posted November 22, 2023 Author Share Posted November 22, 2023 (edited) Ok, let's try this again. Big thanks to @Stutopia for sorting it out. It's been a while since I last updated you all on the Z. I always seem to be buying something or working on it here and there. First item on the agenda: sticky clutch pedal. I noticed my clutch pedal sticking in hot weather or in stop-start traffic so I bought a clutch service kit from Tarmac Sportz. This includes an uprated slave cylinder, HEL braided line and Motul RBF 600 clutch fluid. This seems to have sorted it as no more sticking! At the same time, I fitted a run-of-the-mill aluminium undertray from Tarmac Sportz. The new slave cylinder and line. As you can see, the original doesn't look a day over 70... As it stood. After messing about for three hours trying to bleed the bloody thing properly! Applied a thin layer of grease around the rubber boot to make it last that little bit longer (likely makes no difference). I realised I routed the line the wrong way so when I get the chance I'll sort it out. Fear not. Bought loads of Nissan OEM parts from Japan in preparation for 'the big job'. Who would've thought it's cheaper to get parts shipped all the way from Japan than to buy them in the UK? - Valve covers & gaskets - Rubber exhaust mounts (already fitted; see below) - Sun visor clips (both of mine had broken; already fitted) - Rubber oil cap filler neck - Fuel cap (the plastic line had broken on mine so I couldn't 'dangle' it off the filler cap; already fitted) - Red battery positive terminal cover (half of mine was missing for some reason; already fitted) - Gaskets: Throttle body, air intake manifold and upper air intake plenum Replaced all the exhaust mounts and gaskets (obviously not pictured). Nissan OEM mounts and original Milltek 3" gaskets to go with 8.8 zinc-plated bolts. Pretty sure I had a minor exhaust leak on one of the gaskets. My true ground-up project, a 1995 Suzuki Cappuccino, all stripped down in preparation for sandblasting early next year. Edited November 22, 2023 by polaris 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stutopia Posted November 22, 2023 Share Posted November 22, 2023 Looking forward to following this restoration. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davey_83 Posted November 22, 2023 Share Posted November 22, 2023 Juicy pal, look forward to the coming updates 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
polaris Posted January 27 Author Share Posted January 27 (edited) An update on the ongoing developments with the 350Z and a couple of questions for you all. A while ago, I noticed a small pool of oil in the spark plug well of cylinder 6. Upon further investigation, I also found some oil condensation/moisture toward the rear of the P/S valve cover. Moving to today, I've got some nice new OEM parts (valve covers, gaskets, bolts etc.) all ready to go, and my plan is to replace it all next week. Meanwhile, I'm sending off the fuel injectors to get cleaned and flow tested. Additionally, I'm having both the upper and lower plenum vapour blasted and coated, with the strut bar getting a fresh powder coat. Current checklist: Fuel injectors cleaned and flow tested Upper and lower plenum vapour blasted and coated with XCP rust inhibitor Strut bar powder coated (still deciding on whether I should stick with the grey...) Valve covers and gaskets Gaskets: throttle body, air intake manifold, upper air intake plenum and plenum spacer Fuel rail refurb: bolts, injector clips, spacers Replacing various rusty bolts around the engine bay Here are a couple of photos: I've got two questions: I found some oil in a few of my fuel injector harness connectors. I assume this is just oil leaking from the valve covers and wicking up the harness? I've never had any problems or codes pop up. Do these valves look ok? I've just passed 70k miles. Cylinder 1: Cylinder 2: Cylinder 3: Cylinder 4: Cylinder 5: Cylinder 6: Aerial photo of Cylinder 4: Edited January 27 by polaris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cosmic73 Posted January 27 Share Posted January 27 Hi, I know there's been a few posts of coolant leaking into the spark plugs but not oil, maybe try nipping up the rocker cover to seal it? I had a GTIr a few years back and the same thing happened because of the rocker cover. Visually the valves look ok but that won't tell you what condition the valve seals and guides or in. Guides will probably be ok, but seals can wear and harden over time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
polaris Posted January 27 Author Share Posted January 27 8 hours ago, Cosmic73 said: Hi, I know there's been a few posts of coolant leaking into the spark plugs but not oil, maybe try nipping up the rocker cover to seal it? I had a GTIr a few years back and the same thing happened because of the rocker cover. Visually the valves look ok but that won't tell you what condition the valve seals and guides or in. Guides will probably be ok, but seals can wear and harden over time. Coolant leaking into the spark plugs? I've never heard someone have that issue before with a 350Z. Are you sure you don't mean oil? There's loads of posts about it I've got brand new OEM Nissan valve covers and gaskets ready to go on so hopefully that'll fix it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cosmic73 Posted January 27 Share Posted January 27 2 hours ago, polaris said: Coolant leaking into the spark plugs? I've never heard someone have that issue before with a 350Z. Are you sure you don't mean oil? There's loads of posts about it I've got brand new OEM Nissan valve covers and gaskets ready to go on so hopefully that'll fix it Yes, sorry, I meant oil, not coolant. I wrote that post on my tiny mobile with no glasses. 👓 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davey_83 Posted Wednesday at 06:50 Share Posted Wednesday at 06:50 Any updates? ☺️ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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