luka761 Posted June 7, 2016 Share Posted June 7, 2016 So you lunatics have managed to properly infect me with this disease and I have gone ahead and bought a Slim's machine polisher. This week will probably be my first chance to play. I have a couple of questions before I go destroy my paintwork. - Got some Meguires three stage detailing bottles. I understand what the polish and wax stages do (got rid of the wax, seemed rubbish) but I don't undertand what the "colour correction/enhancement" stage does? I know there is a @*!# load of better products out there but I'd like to use this up before I go on to better stuff and I'll do my research for the next round of purchasing. - Pads. Would appreciate some straightforward advice with regards to what makes a good pad, where can I get it and whats wise to use as a novice? - Claying. Did it 6-8 weeks ago, do I need to do it again? Do I need to do it every time I get the machine polisher out? - If I'm trying to remove all existing products and go for a clean start, possibly help get rid of tar and make the claying easier, is there a product that you guys would recommend? - Harsh vs Soft shampoos. Do people use different shampoos when they are doing a big clean and when they are doing a "top up" clean? - Layers. Got a couple of waxes (liquid turtle wax and some rock solid autofinesse stuff), is the shiny/wet gloss look enhanced by layering the wax? I'm looking at ilogikal and a couple of others here to add some sanity to my madness, I appreciate everyones input though and thanks for helping me out in advance. Luka Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ekona Posted June 7, 2016 Share Posted June 7, 2016 1. Bin the Megs. Seriously. 2. I like the Lake Country ones. Get one of each colour. 3. Do it when it needs it, but yes I'd clay before a machining. I wouldn't on a normal wash. 4. Clay does that for you. But if you have tar stuck to the car, then a tar remover works. 5. Nope. I just use a decent one. 6. Occasionally, but using a decent product in the first place is the best bet. Short but sweet. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
veilside z Posted June 7, 2016 Share Posted June 7, 2016 Hope all goes well buddy. Try not to do it in the soaring sun as the panels get so hot. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Banz Posted June 7, 2016 Share Posted June 7, 2016 I did it on Sunday when it was really sunny. Took it for a car wash as my driveway isn't suitable for a wash. I used the meguair paint cleaner, polish and wax. Failed miserably. The polish was drying up as soon as I put them on, probably due to heat. I thought you needed to wipe the polish off as soon as you put it on. I didn't know you had to polish it until it goes away. So the car is full of streak and just look terrible lol. It took me 3 hours and I didn't improve the look of it. I was so worn out by the end of it. At least I think I've done the inside correctly and the interior is nice and shiny. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ilogikal1 Posted June 7, 2016 Share Posted June 7, 2016 Without actually checking, I'd hazard a guess that the correction/enhancement stuff is a stronger polish and the "polish" is more of a glaze, but that's just a wild stab in the dark to be honest. When you've had enough of that stuff, look at Scholl compounds. Much better! Pads are much of a preference as anything else detailing related really. Personally I'm a Lake Country Hydrotech guy too. You'll generally find each manufacturer offers three pads mainly (many offer up to 12 which is just silly!) You'll effect be looking at heavy cut, medium cut and fine cut/finishing pads - heavy cut is too much for the soft Nissan paint, so just get one of each of the medium and fine cut pads. Standard rule of thumb for all polshing; start with the least aggressive combo (pad and compound) and only step if you need to. You've got a DA so the only important rule is ro stick to pads designed for DA's - don't buy rotary pads as they'll just not last. Claying, I'd do as much decontamination as possible prior to any polishing. Remember you don't want to be polishing more than twice a year, ideally just once (or less) if you can. Despite claying 6 weeks ago, you'd be surprised how quickly you can pick up contamination sometimes. Polishing will remove everything on the paint. And some paint. So if you're polishing don't worry about doing anything to shift any previous products. If you're not polishing then a full decontamination will get of most things that aren't nearly new or freshly applied - tar and fallout remove will kill waxes and most sealants. Coatings are a different stor altogether though. Whatever you do, do NOT believe anyone who tells you that Fairy liquid strips wax. It doesn't. It contains surfectants which affect water behaviour but it doesn't remove a damn thing! The only different shampoos I use are either pure shampoos (just for cleaning) or top up shampoos (add a bit of protection). There's no point in using the latter if you're polishing though, you might as well just use you're preferred shampoo regardless of what it actually does though. The only benefit to layers is ensuring coverage. That's literally all its good for. Shine is obtained from the prep work before waxing - the cleaner and smoother the paint, the shinier the finish. You can enhance the shine with a glaze under the wax which adds depth as well or by using something SiO2 based (anything Gyeon for example, including Bathe+!) which gives less depth but more gloss. Lots more gloss!! Not quite as short but no less sweet. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Randy_Baton Posted June 7, 2016 Share Posted June 7, 2016 (edited) Wouldn't layering also increase the time the finish lasts for/the amount of maintenance washes you can do before a full detail is required? I've been layering 1x glaze 2x sealant and 2 x wax. Edited June 7, 2016 by Randy_Baton Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ilogikal1 Posted June 7, 2016 Share Posted June 7, 2016 Not really, no. Typically you'll be removing viritually all of the second layer when buffing as it won't bond to itself. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Randy_Baton Posted June 7, 2016 Share Posted June 7, 2016 Ha, well that's about 45 minutes saved next time Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ilogikal1 Posted June 7, 2016 Share Posted June 7, 2016 Think of all that money I've just saved you in (largely) wasted product as well. Stu, Granville, take note; I'm saving people money on detailing stuff now! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
luka761 Posted June 7, 2016 Author Share Posted June 7, 2016 Ok think I got all of that, sad to bin the Meguires stuff since the bottles are almost full but not much point wasting my time is there. Guess I need to get myself a decent polish compound. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ioneabee Posted June 7, 2016 Share Posted June 7, 2016 Think of all that money I've just saved you in (largely) wasted product as well. Stu, Granville, take note; I'm saving people money on detailing stuff now! Strange ........... you always seem to cost me money 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChrisS Posted June 8, 2016 Share Posted June 8, 2016 Ok think I got all of that, sad to bin the Meguires stuff since the bottles are almost full but not much point wasting my time is there. Guess I need to get myself a decent polish compound. Keep it to use on 'friends/relatives' cars..............they won't know the difference. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ricey Posted June 8, 2016 Share Posted June 8, 2016 Ok think I got all of that, sad to bin the Meguires stuff since the bottles are almost full but not much point wasting my time is there. Guess I need to get myself a decent polish compound. Meguairs isn't a pro product but it's alright for an amateur (i don't mean that in a condescending way). If you're getting serious though then you might as well get the right stuff Sent from my SM-G925F using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
harryjackson Posted June 8, 2016 Share Posted June 8, 2016 (edited) Meguairs 105 & 205 are two of the best polishes on the market 😂😂😂 Scholl Concepts are decent and I've heard good stuff on Mezerna. If you want to bin the Meguairs I'll have it off you. The stuff is the best if you know what you're doing with a polisher and use the correct pad. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Edited June 8, 2016 by harryjackson Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ilogikal1 Posted June 8, 2016 Share Posted June 8, 2016 I wouldn't go as far as to say they're the best... granted they're not the worst either but they're definitely not the best. But I'm not sure that's what he's got anyway tbh. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ricey Posted June 8, 2016 Share Posted June 8, 2016 Meguairs 105 & 205 are two of the best polishes on the market 😂😂😂 Scholl Concepts are decent and I've heard good stuff on Mezerna. If you want to bin the Meguairs I'll have it off you. The stuff is the best if you know what you're doing with a polisher and use the correct pad. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk I'd agree with Ilogikal - they're good enough......certainly wouldn't sling them. If you're using ultimate compound or something then I'd be less inclined to say your doing much other than filling. Sent from my SM-G925F using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
harryjackson Posted June 8, 2016 Share Posted June 8, 2016 Meguairs 105 & 205 are two of the best polishes on the market 😂😂😂 Scholl Concepts are decent and I've heard good stuff on Mezerna. If you want to bin the Meguairs I'll have it off you. The stuff is the best if you know what you're doing with a polisher and use the correct pad. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk I'd agree with Ilogikal - they're good enough......certainly wouldn't sling them. If you're using ultimate compound or something then I'd be less inclined to say your doing much other than filling. Sent from my SM-G925F using Tapatalk Yeah 105 and 205 contain no fillers but 205 is a fantastic finishing polish. 105 may not be as aggressive but you use an appropriate pad for your application. It's all about choosing a combination that is suitable for the application and condition of the paint but yes ultimate compound does contain some fillers. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ricey Posted June 8, 2016 Share Posted June 8, 2016 No matter what any manufacturer says all polishes will contain some fillers. That's why it's important to IPA wipedown after to see the true state of correction. Again it's tough from an amateur perspective even from a pad perspective. I added mine up the other day......over 300 quid! Sent from my SM-G925F using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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