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Lexan Windows for those on extreme diet.


GT4 Zed

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Finally my zed is going in for its final stage of transformation into a track only car and I'm hell bent on saving as much weight as I can where possible and reasonably. I refuse to buy CF doors or rear hatch as wet CF is not much lighter than OEM aluminum and dry CF is ludicrously expensive. In fact even wet CF is bloody pricey. I'l de skin the hatch and gut the door full including cutting of the heavy transverse crash bar.

 

Here is the best results of my uk search to share with those here that are on a similar journey. Fake ben Taylor, Djtimo just to name a few. These guys supply Nismo UK and JRM so should be quality.

 

I think I'll get the windows first before braving by rear hatch.

I'm also checking for prices in the US and if it makes sense to order everything in one go and multiple orders then will put up a GB of 3-5pips seeing this is not for everyone.

 

If any one can share any experience with maintaining lexan please share. I'm concerned about scratching but wondering if the hard coating is worth it. I'm thinking tint film may be more protective and cheaper.

 

Linky:

http://www.plastics4performance.com/window-kits-windscreens/nissan-350z-lexan-full-window-kit.html

Edited by GT4 Zed
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I run a lexan rear screen on the MR2, and in terms of cleaning it I've been exceptionally careful. Lots of water, lots of suds, very little touching with a cloth until I'm sure that there's practically zero dirt on it. So far, it's looking very good.

 

Film I wouldn't worry about, just don't wipe it over with a dry cloth and I think you'll be fine.

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Correct Dan. Just windows, quarter Windows and rear hatch window. I'm not bothered with impact rigidity as I'm having a full FIA spec cage.

thanks for the assurances too. I may just go with the colour(Grey) one for a bit of glare protection.

 

I'm loosing all the front rad support and gubbins to a lightweight tubular frame to hang off the rad, intercooler and oil cooler and front splitter. Also it allow me to run a custom shorter 3" vortech intercooler set up and make the front bumper removable with 4 quick clips.

 

What I'd really love to do is a full strip of the entire underbody but I don't have the garage to DIY and save cost. Need to speak with Darren or Trigg :lol:

 

 

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Rear hatch doesnt need to be thermoformed so Harry and I have done some scouting and reckon we could diy the rear for £45 a window :) quarters, im thinking like wise, dont need to be thermoformed and enough lexen to do both sides would be £20 a car...... Only the side windows need to be the expensive ones :)

 

Glad there is a few of us all on the same page with building PROPER track cars though

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Listening :)

 

We need a proper car thread for all our cars. help for weight loss and aero tweeks etc..

 

 

Bennet can you weight you boot hatch ones you have de-skinned it! I want CF as it saves 15+ kg but I'm still trying to figure out the best wing mounting for it?

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Only issue for me with lexan side windows is security. My zed does still see about 1k miles a year on the road and sliders in side windows could be a security issue? Rear quarters and tailgate glass no issues there.

 

I have managed to get the side glass to seal quite well even with the doors gutted but I'm not so sure about lexan? Its not a major issue but i doubt they will be water tight.

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Out of sheer curiosity I would be intetested to know what you guys achieve, kerb weights, savings here and there etc I had my previous jdm weighed and it was 1450kg, would have thought 1400 is easily achievable without too much discomfort, any target weights set?

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As for protecting it, get clear vinyl applied on the outside. The sort that they use on the front of supercars to protect against stone chips etc, it will then wipe off like a normal vinyl will :)

 

I have a very good mate that does this if anyone needs it doing, decent quality stuff that's used on various supercars.

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Only issue for me with lexan side windows is security. My zed does still see about 1k miles a year on the road and sliders in side windows could be a security issue? Rear quarters and tailgate glass no issues there.

 

I have managed to get the side glass to seal quite well even with the doors gutted but I'm not so sure about lexan? Its not a major issue but i doubt they will be water tight.

 

difficult to steal a car with no steering wheel though your right it is still a risk.

 

Lexan is fairly easy to maintain but it does get scratched, if you need help with the windows let me know, the curved aspect of the glass is a pain. Also wet carbon on the doors and the rear hatch is well worth it. not so much the bonnet and the wings tho as you say. Great to see you going down this road m8 :)

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As for protecting it, get clear vinyl applied on the outside. The sort that they use on the front of supercars to protect against stone chips etc, it will then wipe off like a normal vinyl will :)

 

I have a very good mate that does this if anyone needs it doing, decent quality stuff that's used on various supercars.

 

Being as you're from Surrey and mention supercars, are you referring to Valet Magic? They do a LOT of supercars and are impeccable :)

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Only issue for me with lexan side windows is security. My zed does still see about 1k miles a year on the road and sliders in side windows could be a security issue? Rear quarters and tailgate glass no issues there.

 

I have managed to get the side glass to seal quite well even with the doors gutted but I'm not so sure about lexan? Its not a major issue but i doubt they will be water tight.

 

difficult to steal a car with no steering wheel though your right it is still a risk.

 

Lexan is fairly easy to maintain but it does get scratched, if you need help with the windows let me know, the curved aspect of the glass is a pain. Also wet carbon on the doors and the rear hatch is well worth it. not so much the bonnet and the wings tho as you say. Great to see you going down this road m8 :)

 

Hey Steve so good of you to chime in! How are things your end? Still running the old girl? I way always going this route but it was a staged progression.

 

Any help would be appreciated. Pm any details. Yeah I saw the margard treated ones but that's pricey. I don't have sponsors you know :wink:

 

I'll really like to get CF doors and hatch but put of by the price. I think de-skinning the hatch will save weight and so is the door. There about 10-15 kg you can take off each door!

What was your zeds final weight? I'm down at 1380kg with just under a quarter tank of fuel and driver. Cage will change that but I'm removing the rear strut brace for a CDS tube and the subwoofer panel strict to offset some of the weight. All will punch large holes in the interior skin where possible and remove extra seam sealant. The only major weight is all the tar under the car body. I wish I could do it but labour of stripping is so expensive. If I had the space I'd do the full strip, send the car in for the cage and custom work and then off for full chemical or shot blasting strip, rust coating/primer and paint.

The patent front fenders are 3/4 lighter than OEM so I will get one for the passenger side to match the DS.

Any other ideas to loose weight without breaking the bank?

 

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Thanks for all the feedback so far lads I'm surprised of some much interest and contribution. Keep it coming. I'll do my best to response or throw more questions out there and certainly begin to record weights to help others who want to go this route.

 

@fake ben: I'd be interested in the non thermoformed lexan for the rear hatch and quarter Windows provided you cut it and finish it. You know my address!!! I saw this option with the US guys to save money but I wasn't going to mess with it as I'm very impatient with stuff like that.

 

 

 

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Any other ideas to loose weight without breaking the bank?

 

Exercise and less McDonalds. :stir::lol:

 

lol I suffer this issue.

 

The most weight saving is as you say

 

Tar

Doors

Boot

Seats

 

Then you can start removing interior, aircon (both unit and belts and pipes)

 

some light weight wheels work well too - then i think most time left will be driver and power :)

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