SteveW

In theory this should be the net effect and indeed happen when you fit wheel spacers to the front wheels. The zed is designed, as far as I can tell, with a virtual kingpin axis and zero kingpin offset, i.e. the wheel pivots about a virtual centre struck straight through the wheel thanks to the upper ball joint location. this is condusive to the best steering 'feel'. This gives the best type of handling and no tyre scrub hence why the steering feels 'sharper'. Its likely to be there on all cars fitted with wheel spacers but people simply haven't noticed the difference, th eoverall effect may only be negligible. The other issue with fitting wheel spacers is the increased stress on the wheel bearings, both front and rear. Now it depends on the load capacity of the bearings in use, which will be well in excess of what the car will experience but the net effect of wheel spacers will be reduced wheel bearing life due to additional fatigue per revolution. It would be fairly simple to work out the increase in stress / load on the wheel bearings by lengthening the fulcrum (lever arm) for each mm you extend.

I did mine without the bumper off it can just about be done by only taking off the front undertray but it does require some clever use of tools. It did take a while though and in future I would defo take the bumper off!

Hi mate for performance with a remap you do want to run an airbox and panel filter. However, induction kits are worth it for the noise, you will not see any performance gains from an induction kit. The ECU on the zed is very clever and adds more fuel to kill any gains the induction kit makes. However, for the noise aspect alone I think an induction kit is worth it, whilst for out and out performance the airbox and panel filter combo is best, once again you won't see any gains without a remap. As for the gear oils I'm sorry I have no idea because I have never used either of those. Being branded classic I wouldn't have thought hey were suitable for modern cars. Your best bet might be to give Opieoils a call they will be able to recommend a good oil for the box. Cheers Steve

I quite like the colour coded dash, have been thinking of doing this to mine for a while, however, mine would be black not white as the car is black or orange to match the clocks.....

Thanks mate, I'll take a look. The main point for me wanting them is the aesthetics to be honest but I don't want to waste my money on something that creates more lift when I would be spending the money anyway so might as well go for something that does have a functional effect even if the effect is only small, it all helps.

Hi mate, I have the newest software on my 3G and it still doesn't work, unfortunately. Stupid phone! Cheers Steve

Thanks mate, maybe thats what I need to do then. I'll drop R35LEE a PM and see if he can confirm, tis bloody annoying! Cheers

Just done a similar test with home amp and I got 40 micro amps of current and 2.5 Volts. The iphone works perfectly with the home amp anda headphone - RCA lead. ??????

I'm looking for a functional splitter and functional diffuser for the zed to help with the downforce on trackdays. Obviously there are a few lips, splitters and diffusers about but does anyone know if they actually have an effect on performance and don't just look good? Brands and models would be nice if someone could recommend some, companies seem to just sell their products based on the looks but what about the function? Cheers

1) Millers oils are good oils Irun millers CFS 5w-40 but I take my car on track and that is a motorsport/race oil so defo good enough for the road, I have used millers XFS 5W-4o in the past as a fully synth on the road oil and Silkolene ProS is another class oil (recently rebranded to Fuchs but can't remember which one) Changing the gear oil is easy you just need a big syringe or turkey baster to pump the new oil in after draining the old stuff. However, and I can;t stress this strongly enough DO NOT USE A GL5 ONLY gear oil. GL5 is not a syncromesh oil you need to use a GL4. You can use an oil that is GL4 AND GL5, this is basically an oil that is a GL4 but has such high load capacity that it can be used in GL5 applications. In the past I've used millers and silkolene, however ZMANALEX who is running 600BHP swears by the Nissan stuff. 2) Your car is 276 brake unless its a GT4 uprev engines were fitted to all zeds from 2006 3) Its easy installing an induction kit save the £50 for petrol after fitting it, you will have your foot planted for the first few days because of the awesome new sound Welcome

Thank you for the suggestion though mate! I'm at a complete loss so any suggestions are appreciated.........anyone? Cheers

And the higher pressure increases the boiling point of the coolant. So it has a functional purpose. Only downside is higher pressure can potentially create more fatigue on the plastic radiator end tanks meaning the rad won't last as long.

Yes sorry helps if I actually say how it's connected doesn't it. I'm connecting via the headphone port on the iPhone. I bought a cable with a3.5mm head phone jack to 2 phono/RCA connectors. I cut off the RCA plugs twisted the earths together and soldered the left and right sound channels to the relevant connections inside the Bose. I had originally soldered the earth to the earth point inside the Bose ( as described in many of the ghetto mp3 mod guides) but I have now de soldered the earth for the investigation Thank you

Right I've been trying to get the Bose mp3 mod to work with my 3G iPhone with no success. Basic issue is same as everyone else the phone won't detect it is connected so won't play through the speakers. I've been doing some investigation and not being an electronics guy I have no idea what my results mean so I hope someone can help all us iPhone 3G users out! Right first up I've checked the unit with another mp3 player and my ghetto mod and all is good. The iPhone won't work. So first up I disconnected the earth thinking it might be a bad earth, instantly the phone recognised it was connected to a headphone socket and sound came through the car, very bad quality because of no earth. I then touched the earth wire onto the earth music continued to play with v good quality for about ten seconds then phone stopped recognising it was connected and stopped playing. Ad soon as earth wire is removed from earth point it recognises it is connected to a headphone line again. Next step I tried a different non stereo earth, got the same problem. So I then connected my multimeter between the earth wire and stereo body, there is a voltage of 4.5volts here and if I check current flow 2.5 mili amps. If I do the same when music is playing I get 4.5volts again but 18.4 mili amps. This happens with any earth point I try. It appears the iPhone does not like something to do with theatth cable. Can any electronics gurus help? I'm a mechanical engineer and electronics are as alien as women to me.....

My K1 with bungs in and with popcharger was only 94.2Db, you will have absolutely no problems.

Clean bill of health it was about a 3mph impact. Repair bill is 317 pounds which she is more than happy to pay and meeting me on Monday to give me the cash. The place I went to, who have a really good rep round here, said it doesn't need a new bumper even though i tried pushing him down that path. The assessor said it will be an easy fix, strip off all the paint, put the bumper in a forming oven, reshape to original profile and repaint. There ill be no issues, he checked out all the structural pieces, crash bar, boot floor etc and all are ok the aluminium shows no evidence of stress marks so I'm happy, it will be fixed and in better condition than it was before she hit me. Unless I now put the money to an aftermarket bumper . . . . . . agh decision decisions

Yeah I can see what all are saying about pursuing the insurance route but i will give her a chance, she does genuinly seem like a trustworthy person. I have reported it to my insurance just for information at this stage but should it need pursuing and it looks like I'm getting messed about I will be pursuing it. Yes I have the reg I will check it out. Thanks green monkey!!

Well today I was driving home from work in a queue minding my own business when bang, a Clio went into the back of me. Nevermind accidents do happen at the end of the day. Here is the damage Basically it has put a number plate sized indentation in the paint / bumper and cracked all the paint like in a mosaic. The lady who hit me has asked if its OK for it not to go through the insurance but i will be calling them tomorrow just to inform them should it all kick off when I start to get quotes for having it fixed. I'm happy for it not to, I would want the same if it was the other way round. Do we think its gonna be a new bumper required? And if so anyone know the price? Cheers Steve

PM Sent

Schift, star man!!! Right Find. Thank you. 3FiddyZ I had a look on manufacturers sites and did some seraches, all I could find were axle loads and no rates. Thanks for the information, regarding the coilovers I will check those out. I'm just reluctant because I've had coilovers fail before on UK roads and it costs nearly as much to repair them as buying new ones which then fail pretty quickly. Maybe its just the roads I drive on.... its pretty bad round west yorkshire! Cheers Steve

Does anyone know the spring rates for the Tein, Eibach and OEM springs? After doing a couple of trackdays I'm looking to upgrade to something a bit stiffer and stiffer anti roll bars will follow shortly after but can't decide between Eibach and Tein, hoping spring rates can win it out for me. I'm just a bit concerned of scraping on everything with the Eibachs (ie them stupid half speed humps loads around my area) and when I get my carbon body kit I'm palnning I would be well and truly angry if it got damaged by a speed bump! Also I;m likely to need other bits and pieces to sort out the camber issues with Eibach. I don't want coilovers because UK roads will kill them in no time and I don't do enough trackdays to justify them. Cheers Steve

I run yellowstuffs and turbogrooves and have absolutely no issues with yellowstuffs on the road or a yellowstuff and grooved disk combo. They do fade on track but they clearly state on the EBC site that the coefficient of friction drops from 0.51 at cold to 0.21 at high temps hence the fade - usually takes 10 - 15 hard mins to fade. on track. If you plan to go on track get some DS2500's coefficient of friction is 0.42 up to 800 degrees IIRC. The DS2500's are about £60 more expensive but worth it if going on track. If you do change the discs make sure you check runouts or 3 - 4k miles down the line you may have to go get the discs skimmed on the car (about £60 per axle)

Bloody well managed to clip the wing on the car when I was going into the garage last night. I was going in at the wrong angle and was too busy watching the rear corner from missing my other car when I heard a 'Twang' when I got out I discovered the lock bracket for the garage door has caught the flat section of the wheel arch (flat section) just above where the bumper joins and removed some of the paint as well as putting a crease in the flat bit. Pretty mad with myself right now!!!!

Stone stuck in the tyre treads?

If its only £300 for new locks and keys I'll be amazed sorry if this is a bit negative and not what you wanna hear but a guy I work with lost his Volvo keys (I think its a C30) and he was quoted for new locks and new keys............£1175 +VAT!!!!! Hope they turn up mate!