Corrado

Just found this thread from 2011, and was looking to do this adjustment. I’ve run a ‘53 DE for a lot of years and now have a ‘58 HR with just 14,000 miles on it. It’s never had any adjustment work done on the clutch system so gives a good reference for factory set measurements. I found this Clutch Adjustment Specification guide showing the factory pedal height recommended range (171 -190mm). My pedal top currently measures 171mm (with no mat and pushing carpet flat to floor). Adjusting the pedal position down would therefore take it below the 171mm range minimum, and the caution note at the top of the guide about clutch slip as fluid heats up concerned me! This YouTube video was also pretty helpful at demonstrating how pedal travel was affecting slave Cylinder range (on a GT 86, not 350Z). Has any one got any long-term feedback on running the clutch pedal lower i.e. level with the brake pedal or lower? Any issues of clutch burn out or other problems described in the adjustment specification sheet? While I’ve never liked the high bite point on the clutch pedal on either of my Z’s, I don’t want to fry a low miles clutch! Any feedback on long-term running of this adjustment would be appreciated! Thanks

Just found this thread from 2015, and was looking to do this adjustment. I’ve run a ‘53 DE for a lot of years and now have a ‘58 HR with just 14,000 miles on it. It’s never had any adjustment work done on the clutch system so gives a good reference for factory set measurements. I found this Clutch Adjustment Specification guide showing the factory pedal height recommended range (171 -190mm). My pedal top currently measures 171mm (with no mat and pushing carpet flat to floor). Adjusting the pedal position down would therefore take it below the 171mm range minimum, and the caution note at the top of the guide about clutch slip as fluid heats up concerned me! This YouTube video was also pretty helpful at demonstrating how pedal travel was affecting slave Cylinder range (on a GT 86, not 350Z). Has any one got any long-term feedback on running the clutch pedal lower i.e. level with the brake pedal or lower? Any issues of clutch burn out or other problems described in the adjustment specification sheet? While I’ve never liked the high bite point on the clutch pedal on either of my Z’s, I don’t want to fry a low miles clutch! Any feedback on long-term running of this adjustment would be appreciated! Thanks

Please PM if you have one available. I know they are hens teeth, thanks!

Ever the optimist!! Please PM if you have one available.

Hi I'm looking for a 350Z Nismo Cat Back system, if anyone has one to sell. I know they rarely come up, but thought I'd ask. Thanks.

Just made me laugh that the guy in the Nissan parts department clearly had a sense of humour when he speced these for the car during pre-sale prep!! I've still got another full set of Potenzas waiting to go on, so have a long, wet, slow, winter ahead ....but you can't blame a summer tyre for that!

I've always stuck with the original fit Potenzas RE040's, and been happy with them on road & track (but I do back off in the wet!). However, I saw these Avon ZZ5's newly fitted to the rear of a Z on the forecourt of my local Nissan Main Dealer; Potenzas RE050's on the front. No experience of this AVON tyre, but with a 'Z' on every tread block round the side wall (see attached pic) it has to be the most stylish budget alternative to Bridgestone for a Z-car.... ....not that you should buy tyres on style!! Anyone tried them?

These look great! Has anyone tried fitting these JDM Clear Reflectors to 2003-2005 cars? I know they have slightly different fixings - can they me modified to fit? Anyone doing these LED versions?

I don't really know much about motors, so this may be a completely stupid question, but does anyone know if this problem occurs more on windows which aren't used much? I use my windows very infrequently (relying on air con in the summer) so the motor is only moving it up-&-down a fraction every time the door opens/closes. Would it be better for the motor to be fully cycled (window fully up-&-down) more frequently?

I've done a few of the IAM's Road Driver Training Skills days - at various race tracks. You get 1-to-1 in-car coaching from either an Emergency Services CAT 1 Driver or a Racing Driver. Really well organised, plenty of space and time on the track, and no 'Looney Tunes' so you know you'll be driving your Z home in one piece. The last one I did earlier this year was at Silverstone, Stowe Circuit, and they got instructors over from the Porsche Experience to coach us. With this quality of coaching you really explore the limits of both your car and yourself in a safe environment. Not a "cheap" day, and the Bridgestones are punished, but good value for money when you consider the amount of track time and top class 1-to-1 coaching you get. I learned so much, and it's really increased my enjoyment of the Z. As the other guys have said, Road Craft is a really good read, or DVD. I did the course and was lucky to have a fantastic observer who was a real Petrol Head, brilliant driver and coach. Like all large organisations it's very dependent on the individuals in your local group, but certainly worth having a look.

Having lived with the intermittent problem for 12 months, the window motor finally stopped working totally, forcing me to do something. The reciept from the previous owner from West Way Nissan Aldershot had scared me off doing anything before: 21/10/2008, Mileage 24,808 - N8731CD001 Motor Assy Regu £341.38 - N28891CD706 Blade Assy-wind £ 29.78 - N28890AL515 Blade Assy-wind £ 13.27 - N288900X800 Blade Assi-wind £ 5.65 - Fitting £ 74.00 ====== £464.08 + VAT = £545.29 Given that my first post on here about the problem was 4/06/10 the motor only worked correctly for 20 months. Even today my car's only done 38,500 miles - just 14k since the motor was fitted, and apart from it's door shutting sequence I rarely use the window so it hasn't been over used. Anyway, having had my rant about Nissan's clear design / production quality problem with this motor which enthusiasts shouldn't be having to pay for, something slightly more positive: Alex supplied me a replacement motor for £189 and I used the following how-to guide: www.nicoclub.com/archives/350Z-door-dis ... ement.html The pictures didn't come-up on this web-link, but the text explaination was very clear and easy to follow. It was just a case of taking your time and being careful. You don't actually need to disconnect the door handle/lock cables as it suggests in this guide, I just carefully supported the door card on a box and left these cables attached. My motor had stopped working in the fully-up position, and the square drive shaft of the new motor slotted straight-in in this position without the need for rotating the motor as mention in the guide. Not sure if I was just lucky, or whether having the window up to start with helps. No other adjustment or resetting was needed, I just reassembled the door card, plugged-in the loom, and it all worked perfectly first time. I gave all the mechanicals a good spray of WD-40 while I was in there. Total job time was just over an hour. Still not right that a car with just 38.5k on the clock should have had a total of £734 spent on it just to make it's window go up-&-down.... .....but on the bright-side it's a sunny evening, so I can get the window down and listen to the 6-pot sound track! Good luck if you have a go!

25nM It's a pretty straightforward job, useful how to guide on here somewhere.

That's great, thanks for your help on that, appreciated!

Thanks Steve, I'll check-out the guide. Would the brushes have worn so quickly, a new motor was fitted in October '08 and it's not had excessive use.