SteveW

Hey folks my wheels are badly in need of a refurb and the plan is to go gunmetal grey with a coloured lip (not on my face tho ) The options as I see it are rim tape or paint. I'm thinking painting them would be best bet for life but a nightmare to get right without a perfectly round template. Are there any other options? I will be doing all the work myself. If rim tape is best what is the best way to apply? I've looked but can't find any instructions on the Internet or on any of the shops that sell it. Thank you very much Steve

Thanks chaps I'll steer well clear, thank you Always best to ask! The search continues Thankls again

I'm after a pair of spats and diffuser for the back bumper to make the back end look a bit better. Has anyone bought any parts from UV Worldwide before and if so what was the fit and quality like? I like the look of: http://www.uvworldwide.co.uk/nissan-350 ... -1640.html and http://www.uvworldwide.co.uk/bodystylin ... -3035.html and eventually http://www.uvworldwide.co.uk/bodystylin ... -1638.html Whilst I would prefer Nismo parts for fit and quality the bank balance simply won't stretch that far Thank you Steve

Oh yes one other thing don't forget to mark the postions of the camber bolts on the rear before loosening them so you can get the alignment something like in the right position when you put it all back together.

Getting the damper rod top nuts off is a PITA unless you have an airgun, you need a swan necked spanner and a pair of big grips to hold the damper rod still. Its pretty easy on the whole though to be honest just wangling of the shock around to get it out of the arch is a pain. Good luck.

Car is now fixed, fingers crossed it stays that way. Was quite an easy job really, think it was just the pressing of the bearing that was concerning me. It turns out reassembly of the suspension components was the hardest part. Thanks to ZMANALEX for all the help and the parts. Cheers Steve

Old bits are now separated , only took 4500Kg..... Hard part is going to be find a suitable drift or piece of metal to put the new bearing on. See what can be found around the place today.

Hub, bearing and wheel carrier all removed intact, only took 90 mins. Just need to press apart and then press the new one on. Fingers crossed it will be easy

My wheel bearing has gone and I am think of doing the majority of it myself just find a garage to put the new bearing on, or use the press at work. However, I've just been reading the service manual and point 8 has me a little confused. In the service manual the axle is referred to as the large cast item that all the suspension links etc mount to and the driveshaft passes through before going into the wheel hub. (I woul dcall this the hub carrier??) Anyway point 8 - REMOVAL 1. Remove tire with power tool. 2. Remove cotter pin. Then remove lock nut from drive shaft. 3. Remove brake caliper with power tool. Hang it in a place where it will not interfere with work. Refer to BR- 38, "REAR DISC BRAKE (AD14VE TYPE)" , BR-44, "REAR DISC BRAKE (OPB13VB TYPE)" . CAUTION: Avoid depressing brake pedal while brake caliper is removed. 4. Remove disc rotor and remove parking cable and parking brake shoe from back plate. Refer to PB-4, "PARKING BRAKE CONTROL" , PB-5, "PARKING BRAKE SHOE" . 5. Remove fixing bolts and nuts in axle side of radius rod, front lower link with power tool. 6. Remove fixing bolt and nut in axle side of rear lower link with power tool. Then remove coil spring. Refer to RSU-15, "REAR LOWER LINK & COIL SPRING" . 7. Remove fixing bolt and nut in axle side of shock absorber with power tool. 8. Using a puller (suitable tool), remove axle from drive shaft. So my question is a puller needed? If so what type of puller should I get, I really have no idea. I'm pretty handy and I'm sure I could work it out when all dismantled I just want to try and get everything sorted before I start. I would have thought the drive shaft would be free and loose or is there a sleeve around the end of the drive shaft that is a tight fit into the axle/hub carrier? As such is it a hub puller i require? Thank you Steve

Hi mate, yes it was a cracking day, best part for me was a massive tank slapper that I managed to keep on track. Passenger was very impressed considering he had been looking out of his window in the direction we were supposed to be going. Lol. I was with Javelin Trackdays. Cheers Steve

Yes sorry mate, I realised it was the hub and the bearing after I wrote the response. It doesn't make sense why Nissan would quote for a new carrier as well??? I could understand a new axle because sometimes the axle is too worn. Really considering having a go myself. Just need a hub puller to get the axle off and a ball joint separator to get the hub carrier off. We've got some presses at work I can use just a question of having the right drift to put the new bearing on. Cheers Steve The bearing/hub runs on the hub carrier or sometimes referred to as a sleeve. There is no axle as such on the 350Z. This should be the only issue that you have as the inner part of the bearing is a tight fit on the "sleeve" and you will not know if this is worn/damaged untill you get the bearing off. Bearings/hubs in stock and good to go same/next day. Alex. Sorry Alex, think it was a confusion over terminology for various parts, when I say the axle I meant the wheel hub (the part with the wheel studs pressed into it, I think you referred to this as the sleeve?). Hub carrier I assume you mean the part the hub and bearing sub assembly bolts to (links the top and bottom arms of the suspension together called axle in the Nissan Service mnaual (item 4)) LOL Very confusing. I will drop you a PM should I need a bearing/hub assembly when I've made my mind up if I'm gonna have a go myself. Thank you very much. Steve Steve

Yes sorry mate, I realised it was the hub and the bearing after I wrote the response. It doesn't make sense why Nissan would quote for a new carrier as well??? I could understand a new axle because sometimes the axle is too worn. Really considering having a go myself. Just need a hub puller to get the axle off and a ball joint separator to get the hub carrier off. We've got some presses at work I can use just a question of having the right drift to put the new bearing on. Cheers Steve

Thanks mate, I do too I need the car for work it is also my daily driver and living in the sticks ten miles from work I have two options until it is fixed: 1) Push bike (which is fine praying for a dry week) 2) Walk an hour to get a bus.... lol The hairpin is class. To be honest I think Gerrards at Mallory Park did all the damage, it then got worse at Cadwell and today it said I've had enough! Cheers

Hi Alex thanks very much. Would you recommend I replace the axle as well as the bearing? Only reason I ask is that when I replaced only the bearing on my Celica GT4 the thing failed again in about 8 months. Maybe I can do all the strip work myself and just get a garage to remove my old bearing and put on the new one? just buy a hub puller and a ball joint separator, maybe a day off work is required.... didn't realise the bearing alone would be around £80 yikes! Thank you Steve

Oh dear, had a cracking day at Oulton Park but coming home I noticed some odd noise from the rear left wheel. I checked the wheel bearing when I got back and it is well screwed up. Loads and loads of play. Going to be ringing around garages tomorrow to find a price to have it done. I would have a bash myself but don't have the time, special tools or a big monster press. Any ideas of what price I should expect?? Cheers Steve

I had a similar bump recently, a good bodyshop won't use filler because it will fall out over time. My repair cost £313 with VAT but the girl who hit me paid for it in cash. My damage was only minor too but it could have cracked the bumper and or damaged the crash barr and this you won't know about until after a few weeks later when the paint starts to crack which just gets worse. The bumpers cost a fortune about £800 so your minor bump could result in a large bill that you hadn't thought.] Also make sure you read your insurance terms and conditions, my policy said I had to report any incidents within 48 hours even if it was just for information. You've got his reg get him to pay for it! I would do it just because he acted like a ass!

Thanks fellas, thats what it claims drop wise Chris. Its more than that after a weeks driving as they bed in. It definitely looks better and handles better

Well I put some Tein S-Tech springs on the other week so here are some before and after pics for those who can't decide between Tein and Eibach. I like them stiffened the ride up nicely but not too excessive, it is still quite compliant on the bumpy UK roads but makes the handling way more precise. I will be writing a guide on how to do the change over. Its pretty easy but the damper rod top nuts can be a ball ache! Before After Before After Before After Cheers

With the bungs I was measured at 94.2db (static test) and without 103.9db (static test) I personally think its quite restrained with the bungs, but noise perception is always a personal thing, I know I have bad hearing....Too many years as a bedroom DJ, lol.

I have now left the ASBO club it was just too loud without the bungs on the daily commute and I felt bad for constantly waking up all the neighbours at 7:00 every morning. I know I'd be mad if it was my neighbour doing it to me. They will be coming out for trackdays though.

Just be careful and check very closely for fine cracks in the paint. Most bumps with any sort of force will leave fine cracks which means a strip and respray.

Yeah it's all about personal taste, I use mine as an everyday commuter 18 miles each way on motorways so a K1 was never an option I use mine as an everyday commuter 33miles a day and have a K1. With the bungs in it sounds lovely take them out and its too loud for commuting. My bungs are currently out but will be going back in soon, just can't get enough of the popping and banging on over run at the moment.

I removed the bungs from my K1, interesting is all I can say. Love the popping and burbling on over run but hate the tone and volume on regular driving. Its definately a marmite thing. Think the bungs will be off back in in a few days. It does sound awesome with them in.

I use yellow stuffs and on the road no issues at all. They seem like very good pads to me. I also use them on track and they do overheat after about 15 minutes of abuse, track dependent but they last long enough before you should really be pulling in anyway. I'm off for DS2500's next time around because of the track use. If you are considering any trackdays I'd go DS2500 and for road yellowstuffs.

Mine was exactly like yours mate, its just the motor brushes losing contact with the contacts on the motor shaft. I fixed mine when I wrote the guide quite a few months back now and still have no issues since doing it. 99% of the time a window failure will be down to worn brushes in the motor which can be replaced or reset. Good luck Steve