SteveW

Today is the first day we've had snow round my end..... ...... and today is the first day I'm stuck. Even with 150Kg of sand and grit salt in the boot it still won't go anywhere so I've taken a snow day and been snowboarding Can't be wasting these opportunities!

Many thanks to Graham and ZMANALEX. A D47 will be winging its way to me shortly. Thanks again Steve

Cheers Dude PM'd

Actually maybe its D47....... terminals look to be the wrong way round on them all, lol

Well after struggling to get the car started this morning its time to get a new battery. Does anyone know the right Varta Bluetop? I think its E23 but not 100%. Can someone please confirm before I order one. Thank you Steve

No mate I haven't spoke to him, I seem to recall reading a post somewhere that said you couldn't mix Dixcel with other pads but I'll message him. Thanks mate but the Ultimax are less track oriented that the turbogrooves, also want to try something different. I'm happy with my turbogrooves on the front for now. Thanks Alex I'll drop you a PM nearer the time also when I've decided if its going to be DBA or Tarox. Thank you for the post links. Cheers Steve

Thanks for the info mate, I've been looking at a V1 or V2 front bumper but looks like my mind is now made up. Would love a V3 bumper but they are silly money!! When you hsve prices please let me know. Thank you Steve

Evening folks, I'm going to be needing some new rear disks after the winter and have decided I will be giving something other then the norm a try. I've just noticed Tarox now do disks for the zed, they didn't used to when I bought my last lot. I've done a search and couldn't find any posts about people using tarox but I've heard good things in the past from other car forums. I'm just a bit confused about which to get the Tarox website isn't the clearest. The three options I have are G88 (40 groove disks), F2000 (Swirly groove) or sport japan (drilled and 6 grooves). It doesn't really say which are best for track, I'm steering clear of the sport Japan's because they are drilled right through and the thermal stress will crack them, its just a matter of time. Does anyone know if the G88's or the F2000's are the more track oriented disk? Price is same for either £320. I've also looked at the DBA 4000's which are similarly priced any other options in this price bracket? Dixcel are discounted due to requirement for using their own pads. I've currently got turbogrooves, have no issues with them as a disc and were fine on track just want to try something else to see if I can tell a difference. Cheers Steve

I got recommended them off here and have never used them before so more people being happy with them is excellent news Thank you

Thank you!!!! I naively thought 'custom colour' would be non-OEM colours so didn't even look at that. I just kept going round and round in circles getting more and more annoyed You have saved my sanity!!!!! Thank you Steve

Hi Guys, Can someone who has used this website before tell me which category the rattle cans come under? I'm trying to get some Nissan Kuro Black, Ford Panther Black and Ford Electric Orange but I cannot find rattle cans on the website. I have managed to locate full panel repair kits but no individual rattlers. I've been looking for the last half hour.........maybe I'm having a simple day..... Any help very very much appreciated. Thank you Steve

Well I tried the lottery last night sadly only one number .... A mate got 6 but on two different lines lol still 20 quid is better than none. I've justtaken the carbon trim off to find the bumper is split in the lower left corner, wonder if that happened when I had to take evasive action against the bus. Might have to be a Nismo v2 now lol when funds allow. I wouldn't want to give the cr away and pass on the curse lol Cheers guys

Its just one thing after another with this bloody car. I'm sure it is cursed. First off when I bought it some random scratches appeared in places that I had no idea how they appeared, then one day I went to the gym and returned to find some git had reversed into me damaging the paint on the front bumper (I have a cresecent moon type thing by the burger about ten inches wide). Then a few months later and someone reversed into me at a set of traffic lights luckily only a damaged number plate. If I wasn't an honest chap I would have said the moon thing wasn't there before anyway thats history now... A few months later a bus pulled out on me and I had to take evasive action involving me mounting the kerb and damaging the front bumper further, spider cracks in all the paint and an out of shape portion. Thank god I never had the crescent moon thing repaired!! Then sitting in a queue of traffic and some gibbon drove into the back of me, they paid for the bump to be repaired. Then there was the brake saga....... Basically I fitted new brake discs and didn't check the runouts. 3 - 4k later I started to suffer with DTV on the rear left so got them skimmed. I should have at the time investigated why this had happened and sorted it before skimming. Anyway it transpired the reason why the disks needed skimming was because the wheel bearing was on its way out I naively thought the disc was running out because I had a moment in the snow and slightly bumped the kerb so assumed I had bent the hub. The wheel bearing subsequently died at Mallory Park. So I replaced the wheel bearing and now my disc was running out again. I didn't want to get the rear disks skimmed again until I was sure the bearing was sorted so after 3 k miles on the new bearing took the disks for skimming again yesterday. Before going I measured runouts - I got 0.15mm so thought should easily be enough meat left on the disks for one more skim. Turns out my DTI is fecked and the disk was running out by 0.85mm The guy asked if I definitely wated it skiming I said yes, wish I had said no now and saved the money for new rear disks. To get the disk back true they had to take all the drillings and grooves off one disk so I have 3 drilled and grooved disks and one plain now technically the disk is now 0.25mm below minimum thickness so new ones required but pennyless at the moment. And to top it off on the way back from the skimming garage this happened: Then I got gritted by a paint wrecker on the way home down a country lane, what on earth have I done in a former life??? I must have killed a lot of Albatrosses! Anyway rant over

Sorry I totally disagree with that statement about EBC. I have no issues with the EBC turbogrooves and yellowstuffs that I am running, even on the track. The yellowstuffs even have good cold bite for winter driving. Other uprated pads such as DS2500's can give you some bottom twitching moments until you get some heat into them. I'm not saying they are rubbish though, I've found they are better on the track than the Yellowstuffs but occassionally a little scary on the road. At the end of the day its how much cash you have to spend and what you are going to use them for. If you can afford and want something that looks good the more you pay the more bling you get. If you just want an upgrade over standard for occasional trackdays and road use I would reccommend the turbogrooves and yellowstuffs or turbogrooves and DS2500's. Whatever route you go make sure you check the runouts during installation and take your time stress relieving them. Failure to do these are the biggest reasons people suffer with brake vibration. Hope this helps Steve

Deepending upon how competent you are as a DIY mechanic I wrote a guide to fix the window problems, mine is still going strong after a year. http://www.350z-uk.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=30870 Its just a problem with the bushes unless the motor is fubbared which is unlikely. All the best Steve

Hi mate as Vik has said 20 mins is a long time without a break on a track. I've done a few trackdays and I feel ten - 12 minutes is an absolute max, I did 15 at Oulton and the brakes started to go away from me, before you need to do a cool down lap and come in for twenty to thirty mins to give everything a good chance to cool down. As long as you give everything a good chance to cool the Zed is an excellent track car, there isn't much stuff that will be quicker than you. I run EBC Turbogrooves, EBC Yellowstuffs and Motul RBF 600 Fluid and have no brake fade issues unless I stay out over 15 mins (depends on track but I stick to 10 - 12 as a max per session). A lot of people have complained in the past about EBC Turbogrooves warping but I have had no such issues and I wonder if it is really DTV that people have suffered with due to not checking runouts when installing the disks. This is a critical step! Any runout over spec will be exasabated after a few thousand miles, I didn't check mine and luckily only needed to get the rears skimmed and I have had no issues since, Mine was caused by a failing wheel bearing. Make sure when you change your discs you use them carefully to begin with and slowly build up the heat cycles to fully stress relieve them before going on a track therwise they will warp due to residual stress from machining. If you have boiled your fluid it will need changing even though it probably feels OK now.

Cheers Dude

Thank you. I've got a nice bottle of paint thinner for the degreasing operation That should do the trick. Once again thank you very much. Steve

Hi Guys, I've got some painting projects to do on the car, the biggest being refurbing my wheels, painiting my spats and paininting the stereo/ gear surround. I've been digging around the internet to find how 'rough' something should be before rpiming but have been coming up with different results. One forum I saw said smooth with 1200 Grit before priming that seemed a bit too smooth to me, I am by no means a painting expert, more a spanner chucker (I can fix pretty much anything mechanical ) Another forum said rub down with 800 grit till smooth then key up the surface with 240 grit so the primer sticks properly. Please can a paint guru identify the best way to rub down before priming? Many thanks in advance, Steve

I love the sound and looks of my K1 with the bungs in. I agree it is too loud for day to day with the bungs out, they just come out for the track. Did you try it with the bungs in? I think its quite reserved bunged up.

Found it viewtopic.php?f=131&t=35050

I have no experience of Abbey because I live in the north but Paul at RS knows his stuff and this is where I will be going when I get mine done after fitting a plenum spacer. I met an owner there who was over from Ireland who had his done at RS and he was well happy with the results, sadly due to my terrible memory I cannot remember his name but there is a post knocking about somewhere on here. I would just go wherever is closer.

Hi Ian, If you go ahead please can you put me down as backup for the oil cooler and the Tonneau please. Thank you Steve

Thanks Alex, Love the new Sig by the way!! Its probably been there a while but i've only just noticed it.

Just a quick one, are there any issues in fitting a 1.3 BAR Rad cap? The only reason I ask is that the rad has plastic end tanks and in my old car (Celica GT4) the 1.3 Bar rad cap was renowned for making the radiator crack around the moulded inlet resulting in a new radiator. Im interested in a 1.3 BAR rad cap because of trackdays and I'm in prep mode for next year. Many thanks in advance, Steve