SteveW

thankfully its just not me, getting the resistors tomo so will feedback how I get on.

Well I bought myself a clock and base and checked my disc runouts, all was well until I got to the nearside rear . . . Nearside front = 0.03 mm Offside front = 0.05 mm Oddside rear = 0.08 mm Nearside rear = 0.45 mm!!!!!!!!!!! Car is off in Thursday for P2 service and Procut skimming see how I get on. I'll post up runouts afterwards, only getting rears done because fronts are in.

Excellent glad to hear its helping out the masses

Hi mate thanks very much I'll give that a go and see if it works, hope it does work I keep having a play and don't get nowhere. Cheers

Hi mate Im interested in the clear reflectors you have PM

Thanks mate, at least I now know its possible. I'll keep investigating Cheers Steve

Quick one, has anyone managed to get an IPhone to work with a Ghetto MP3 mod? I have got everything else to work with mine, MP3 player other phones etc but neither my iphone or any of my mates will work with it. You connect the lead and the Iphone does not recognise it is connected to anything so plays the music from its internal speaker. Really can't figure it out. The Iphone worked with the same cable attached to my home amp no problems attached to the bose no chance. If you start the ipod function playing then slowly insert the cable you can get sound to come through the car speakers for a few seconds but then the Iphone stops the music playing..... Plug it in fully before you start and it just plays through the internal phone speaker??? Realy confused. . . . any help appreciated. Cheers Steve

I've been told if you take your keys and log book. To the Nissan garage provided they are still the standard ones they can order you the right key. My weekend has just been topped off by realising I've lost mine gonna call Nissan tomorrow. To find out what's what. I think I left it on the wheel nut last week after putting the wheels back on. WHOOPS And now some magpie has probably got it as a nest ornament! First the girlfriend called time on us, then Wakefield got knocked out of challenge cup and now have no wheel nut key! What a truly awesome weekend!

GT4 Zed I think you are right I've measured the hub run out and it is out of spec. At the end of the day the wheel bearings amd hub wear which seems to be the root cause. I had one of my disks checked on the CMM at work for flatness and it is less than 50 microns out of flat which if mounted to a brand new car would have no problems. The problem for me seems to be caused because my hub runs out by 150 microns, three times the limit for the assmebly with the disk and thus the root cause of the vibrations. A pro-cut skim should fix the problem, I'll let everyone know how I get on when sorted. Thanks Steve

Thanks for your reply mate much appreciated. Right I have solved my issue!!!!! Problem was a few things: 1st and major problem was a small bit of solder ad dripped and was connecting two different parts of the tape deck board so I did have a short circuit but not from the cable was from elsewhere. 2nd and major problem was that the cable I have used is quite thick and when it was wedged between the HU base panel and tape unit it was stopping the tape from turning hence the 'error' message. Everyone be aware of this I just re-routed the cable and sandwiched it somewhere else to stop it getting pulled. 3rd and finally the IPhone is FAR too clever for its own good. Any other MP 3 player (I tried 2) work with the ghetto mod I have done however the iphone somehow knows its connected to the ghetto mod and decides it doesn't want to recognise there is anything plugged into the headphone port!!! So plays the music through its internal speaker. When my IPhone is connected to the hifi downstairs and the amp in my bedroom with the exact same cable that is now in the car it works fine! But not with the Ghetto mod. I have no idea why this is..... Has anyone got an IPhone working with theGhetto mod??? Thanks Steve

Just seen your post. Yes it was me who was down at RS on saturday it was good to meet you and have a chat about the Zed world. Those are some good gains you've got there I hope I get something similar when funds allow this to be done. This mod is definately on my list and with the increased fuel economy maybe I can justify it sooner than I first thought. I can recommend RS tuning as well Paul is sound and always willing to discuss things with you in detail if you have any questions. The reason I was there on saturday was not for me but for my mate who has an MR2 Turbo. We were there to find out his BHP after a few mods. Made 406BHP at the flywheel it feels awesome! Once again goo dto meet you mate. Thanks Steve

Hi Mic, yes it was me down at RS on saturday, how did you go in the end? Wish I could have stayed around but had prior arrangements. Good to meet you hope it all went well and the drive back wasn't too stressful, nice plate by the way I've bought a clock to actually check the runout properly instead of using feeler gauges and the caliper, it was taking ages! But based on feeler gauge measurements its gonna be time to go to a procut centre. Thanks Steve

Hi Guys, Right I've been trying to do this mod for the last couple of days and I just can't get it to work. Basically I've followed Alex's excellent guide and got my cable soldered in, I tried it the first night and I couldn't get any sound to play. So tonight I removed the cable checked it works with my home amp which it does just to verify I didn't have a fubbared cable. So soldered back onto HU and checked continuity between channels with a multimeter. Set my multimeter to continuity mode and it shows a large one on the left of the display when no continuity is present and reduces to 0 for a 'perfect' connection. When the unit is in the car with the ignition off or on the table I get good connections between left channel on 3.5mm jack and left channel on tape deck board and no continiuty to other channels, same for earth and right channels. When checking against the correct channels i.e. left to left, ground to ground etc I get continuity readouts of 003/002. However when I turn on the ignition and check across channels I get a continuity readout of 548 left to earth or right to earth. I also get 548 if I check the left or right channels to the HU metal case. The HU case when checked against the earth shows a continuity of 003, Is this correct? I don't think I should be seeing any continuity between the left channel or right channel and the earth and I don't think the case should be an earth should it? Also tonight when I tried it and put the empty tape into the tape deck the unit played forwards for a few seconds then back then ejected the tape and said 'error' on the display. Tomorrow I'm gonna remove the cable and try the headunit on its own I hope it all works OK Whilst the HU has been out I've done the fix for the left channel on the CD player so hope I haven't knakered anything or put it together wrong . .. Hope this all makes sense, I think I've got a short circuit somewhere . . . .

Going down, £40 delivered Thanks

Wow that looks awesome!!! Might have to have a go at that! Thank you

Roughly how much does the carbon fibre wrapping cost or is it something I can do myself? I was thinking matt effect paint too if I went that route could any of you chaps be gentlemen and post up a couple of pics so can see the effects of the various routes? Many thanks in advance Steve

Hi There, I'm considering painting the centre console( gear surround and stereo surround etc) inside the car because of a number of scratches and about a two inch diameter patch wehre the black colour has gone completely and its white??? I remeber seeing a post where someone had done it in the past but can't seem to locate it. Does anyone have any tips how I should go about this? I'm just not really sure how to start because of the 'bobble' effect coating . . . Should I rub it down smooth or paint straight over with a high lift primer then paint? If I mess it up I can't really make it any worse it look stupid. Thanks very much Steve

Well I'm rather not impressed today I have discovered today at least one of my 2500 mile old turbogrooves is causing brake judder and virbration. I was going down the motorway at about 70 and a car pulled out in front of me not really close requiring mega braking but close enough to warrant moderate braking. The entire car started shaking like mad it felt like from the back end after a couple more brake trials. So back home and back wheel off brake disc on passenger side has developed about 300 microns of run out Explains the shuddering under braking from highish speed, buggared my track day plans ....... Can't feel any vibrations under light braking at speeds under 50. The run out specs for the Brembos are 0.05mm for the front and 0.07mm. I'm gonna check all the discs and hubs as soon as possible but not impresseed haven't done any hard braking since I fitted them 2500 miles ago Hmmm I just read this post http://www.350z-uk.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=17&t=32481 and think I need to look into getting this done first! I'll feedback results when sorted! Thanks steve

OK mate nice one will do. I'm currently trying to find a box long enough that they willfit in then I'll get back to you, cheers.

Hi mate, I'm located up north in Yorkshire near Junction 38 of the M1. I need to check out how much postage is cos I'm guessing you wouldn't want to collect seen as you are located in Essex, its a fair old treck. Thanks Steve

Had these knocking around for a while since I changed to the LED ones. The lights are in excellent condition and come with bulbs. Really have no idea what they are worth but found a few posts by searching so say £40 plus delivery? I don't know how much delivery would be at present would have to box them up and weigh them in. Any interest? Cheers SteveW

I've written a guide on how to fix the Zed electric windows. Please find attached, feedback welcomed. Window Guide.pdf

Sorted - PrimoPDF to the rescue, had to downscale the pics a fair bit though.

I've written a guide on how to fix your electric windows and converted it to a PDF but for some reason it won't upload . . . . Any ideas? Is it too big? The file size is 9.63MB If it is too big how can I post it? Thanks

Definately sounds like a problem with the motor to me, i.e. it just needs dismantling and cleaning. Quick Guide (doing from my memory so may be some small errors) 1)Take off the door card 2)Connect the window switches back up (you will neeed to be able to move the window to remove the glass) 3)On the metal panel behind the door card there are three very large pieces of material over three big holes (one at the front two at the back about halfway down the door) remove these three pieces of material 4)Lower the window until you can see a bolt in one of these holes, remove bolt. 5)Repeat process for remaining bolts (3 bolts total), glass will now be sitting on brackets. 6)Carefully remove the glass by lifting it upwards and then sliding backwards when back edge clears doorseal 7)Set glass aside carefully and clean the scum off it (optional) 8)Disconnect window switches and carefully pull wiring looms from door panel 9)Remove all bolts holding internal metal panel to door frame (there are about 12- 15 I think) only the bolts around the edge do not remove the gold coloured bolts 10)Carefully remove the whole silver panel (the entire window mechanism is attached to this) 11)Now that you have removed the window mechanism unbolt the motor assembly from the middle of the door (three bolts) 12)remove three bolts around edge of motor/winder mechanism (not sure if these are on the front or back) 13)Pull the two pieces apart 14)Unhook grommet from silver panel and pull cabel through 15)Unscrew the three screws on top of the motor (be careful they are made fo monkey metal and if you round these off its gonna be hard) 16)Pull goldy coloured portion of motor away from rest (its magnetised so may feel a bit stuck) 17)Depending on which part the motor shaft has stuck to you may need to pull the motor shaft out separatley, mine came out magnetised to the housing) 18)Using lint free cloth and contact cleaner carefully clean the copper contacts half way down the motor shaft they are about 12-15mm tall and will be covered in carbon) 19)Carefully clean the brushes in the motor housings (made of black carbon) 20)Carefully reassemble the motor and attach back to the window regulator assembly 21)Reassemble door but do not fit door card, assembly is the reverse of removal 22)Connect window switches and wind window up one inch from top 23)Check alignment to car body and door (reallign by adujusting the three bolts holding the glass in position, do not overtighten these bolts!!!!) 24)When happy with glass positioning and allignment perform motor reset procedure 25) Re-fit door card 26)Window should now be happy and working There is another set of steps involving the brushes but this needs a soldering iron and more motor disassembly hopefully just cleaning the motor will fix your issue. I didn't get chance to do a full guide this weekend but I'll try this week or weekend. Godo luck