Ekona

Ultimately it depends on what you want from the driving experience. If you want a pin-sharp throttle then the SC is your choice, if you want the big thump in the back then go turbo. Rear mount turbo kits introduce a considerable amount of extra air to the charge pipe that needs to be compressed before you'll make any boost, so these will add a good deal of lag to the system. I'd happily drive a turbo car, but I'd never consider a rear mount one for this reason alone. In my experience, even removing a foot of charge pipeworks makes a big difference, so you can imagine what adding a couple of meters will do. Personally in your shoes I wouldn't spunk £10K on a turbo setup, I'd be chopping in for a Mustang instead.

Are you running a BGW or not? I'd strongly recommend you at least put something on, even if it's a case of removing it once there if you find the balance is off, as like you say an oversteering car on high speed corners at the Ring is going to be a handful! It's the two front holes I was curious about more than anything

Well now you mention it... ;) Nah, they're okay, certainly much better than the 452 they replaced. Be interested to see your car once the wheels are on, don't think I've seen JR7s on a Zed

Better to find out now than later What tyres did you go for btw?

You've gone up a wheel size though, stock 18" tyres are 20mm.

It will definitely cut in and be far more intrusive than it is now. Trouble is, if she does that and hates it then she can't send the tyres back: Personally I'd sort before testing, as reducing the stagger isn't something that should be done lightly.

Interesting design, what were the thoughts in making it like that?

Should be no issue returning the rears unused at all, the law is on your side

Ah, gotcha. I guess there is always that risk, but I'd also be tempted to document the wrap removal so you can then go back and have words with the wrapper. Again though, this is why paying for a decent place to do it is worth the extra.

Oh Great!!! I didn't know that!!! Should I think about buying others? Personally I would increase the rears to a 275/35/18, which would keep the stock stagger of 20mm plus give you a little extra grip over the rear as you've a wider contact patch., plus 275 will fit the 10.5" wheel better. Your call though, if you're a competent driver and know what you're doing there's no reason you can't drive round the oversteer, just be aware that either the TCS will cut in much more often or simply run without it on and enjoy a very lively rear end.

And be very careful when driving: You've reduced the stagger front to rear by half, so the car will be significantly more likely to snap oversteer than it was before.

Not true: The regs simply state it must be able to be moved in two or three different places. Which you can still do with fixed buckets, it just means removing them and re-bolting them in a different place, so perfectly possible In reality it depends on the MOT tester, some are sensible and some are not. The MOT regs also make exception to things like removal of airbags along with the seat rules for significantly modified vehicles: It's aimed at the proper rally cars and road-legal race cars, but it can also happily take into account significantly modified regular road cars too. This is how my old MR2 & MX5 passed MOT every year, when they were stripped out with fixed buckets.

Work of art.

If you can live with the lack of storage space, then the R8 would be a great car to own. Literally the only reason I wrote them off was because of that, otherwise I could well have had one instead of the 911. They're simply brilliant.

You'll have plenty of adjustment with where to put the mounts, personally I wouldn't be buying rails as they always seem to sit higher than required, best off making your own

Tigerseal always. You don't want those flying off at speed.

I dealt with GSM, they were superb. The only company I've ever dealt with that gave me weekly email updates with no prompting. 100% would buy from them again.

Seat width is irrelevant if the seat isn't comfortable, so personally I'd find something comfy then worry about making it fit rather than the other way round: An uncomfortable seat is just going to make you hate the car. Obvious I know, but speaking from experience of getting your heart set on something and then being disappointed when it's not comfy! In terms of mounting, you'll really want to go custom plates and then bolt the side mounts directly to that. Rails will likely take you far too high. Literally you just want a bit of steel that sits flat between the stock bolt holes and then drill it wherever you need it. 6pt is the way to go, easy to fit but you'll need to get a couple of eyelets welded to the floor or you could drill it and mount through. Welding by far the best option though.

I normally end up selling my cars to my mates so never really lose track of them

Good question. Mike, check the PCP paperwork VERY CAREFULLY, it may be specific in no mods.

In what way?

Yup, all there. Road Fund Licence = Vehicle Excise Duty = Road Tax. All the same thing.

If you ordered a factory built car, you'll be the first owner. You will get the V5 as well, as you're responsible for taxing the vehicle. 1st year VED will be included in the purchase price of the car, it'll be listed on the invoice.

Personally I wouldn't drive on that, and have thrown tyres away with less damage. Think about the force you're putting on that area during cornering, and at what pressure. Plus what if you nick it again in the same spot? You did the right thing by getting it checked out professionally, and of course they've seen it up close and have given their opinion, but for me that's just a little too much damage.

Dunno, I think that's too much. It's like mixing three colours on a car, which never ends well.