Ekona

That's more to do with the dual-mass flywheel I should imagine. Extra weight being transferred into extra motion so it's spins up even though the clutch is disengaged. I think. Could well be wrong, mind.

So you press a button, put the car into a special no-clutch mode and as soon as it detects you moving the gear knob it disengages the clutch for you and ignores whatever you're doing to the throttle pedal and sorts it out all by itself? Or do they mean you push a button and the MT becomes an auto? Or even as you engage the gear it sorts the clutch out for you (would mean that there must be some kind of mechanism that disengages the clutch cable) and again ignores the throttle input? None of that makes any sense to me at all, guess I'll have to wait and see when the car comes out.

Exactly, shame I had to find out the hard (and expensive!) way.

Nope, can't see how. Unless it's got some kind of semi-auto mode, then there's no way you could get a manual to rev-match. It's impossible without removing some kind of control away from the driver (either the clutch engagement or the throttle control).

Does the existing tiptronic 'box not rev-match then? Genuine question, never driven one so I have no idea but I'd be amazed if it didn't.

Doesn't work on UK BOSE cars.

I used one of those cassette things for about 23 mins until I got fed up with the ugly wires and the proper 1980's stylee tape hiss in the background. Suddenly I remembered exactly why I don't play my original 1988 Kylie tape anymore.

Set of Volk TE37 wrapped in Yokohama A048 (dry) or Michelin PS2 (wet) would be my choice. You can get the TE37 in standard 18" 350Z fitment and they're nice and light.

Better empty the car from after Anglesey then! Sounds good mate, got no plans this weekend so should be about.

Thor are still about, but Nod (who did all the mapping) is off to Rogue I believe so they might not be a credible option anymore. Rogue might do it, but since their speciality is mk2 MR2s I doubt it.

Pfft, just stay above 40mph and you'll be dry even it's monsoon weather!

Sounds like a plan, gimme a shout sometime.

Heh, forgot about that! Yeah, I think he got the faux-ASBO as the cops felt he was showboating round the roundabout (which he wasn't according to him, and knowing him he'd happily admit it if it was true so I tend to believe him) as the back end came out a little bit. Given that he was putting 270whp through a mid-engined car weighing a ton at the time, you can see why he was a bit pi**ed. Don't think he was banned from anywhere though, think it was more a case of "If we catch you again son..." he'd have had another warning and been prosecuted under some obscure driving law.

Guys, do bear in mind that with NA mapping ultimate power at the top end isn't the be all and end all final goal: What you're essentially aiming for is more torque in the midrange to give the car more shove as a daily drive/weekend fun car. You may only gain 5-10 bhp at the top end, but if you got another 20-30 lb/ft of torque between 3000-6000 RPM you'd have a worthwhile mod. Also worth thinking about is who's actually doing the tuning, and whether they've any real experience with both the car/engine and the replacement ECU. I've never heard of either of the names mentioned in this thread but that's probably my ignorance there, but have they ever tuned a Haltech ECU? And on the Zed specifically? A bad tune will kill your car far quicker than anything else or leave you with much less power than is actually available. I'd happily travel 500 miles for a place that did a decent tune.

+millionty

Water injection is mainly used in FI applications as a way of cooling the charge down before it enters the combustion chamber, not as a way of getting any moisture in there.

They don't have to over-read, but if they were under then you'd have a billion and one motorists suing the manufacturers when they got caught by the speed scameras so they tend to go the opposite for the sake of safety. Using my GPS on the TomTom as a constant, the speed on the dial on my Zed reads 74mph and the multifunction thing says 72mph when TT says 70mph. Strangely though my old VXR220 was absolutely spot-on with GPS and I never got caught by a speed camera, so Lotus/Vauxhall/Stack must be using some far better equipment and have a lot more faith in it than Nissan.

Bikes do have a limit as they don't have a catalytic converter, 99% sure that cars have no set limit it's all down to the individual (both police and MOT tester).

I just ditched Pipex for Sky broadband. T'was a piece of cake, just rang the number and they sent me my MAC code in a day by e-mail and two days by mail. Switched over yesterday, only took a week. They legally have to give you your MAC code within five days now, so if they're not then they're breaking the law and could be worth reporting to OFCOM.

There's no official upper limit, but you can be done with breaching the peace or whatever it's called nowadays. Seems daft but then it does give some kind of protection against chavs with a 6" exhaust on a 1.2 Corsa.

Unless it's raining or greasy I always turn mine off now. For me it's more dangerous when it kicks in when trying to pull out of a junction or similar than it is to rely on my own instincts and reactions.

Personally I don't see the point of NOS unless you've got a seriously built motor used purely for track stuff. With that you can squirt it before the stupid-big turbo kicks in so minimising lag almost completely, so that makes sense. On a road car I see it as pointless as leaving it to squirt in one go gives you shove in a straight line (so on the motorway then) which is just daft, and having it add a bit all the time is just wasting money as you'll be refilling it all the time (depending on tank size, of course). If you want a solid 100BHP then go FI, if you want more then go FI + internals, if you want a bit more poke from a standard NA engine then get a new/piggyback ECU that'll give you what you want safer and cheaper. All IMHO, of course.

That's the ugliest I've seen it yet. That rear fog light bit is absolute gash.

It's worth it mate, trust me. Chuck it on a credit card or summat, make the most of your car. Couple of hundred quid extra is pennies when you budget the cost over the year... At least, that's how I justify it to myself!

Don't mix tyres Rich, you're better off with average tyres all round than different grip levels front and back, especially this time of year. For the sake of another £200, is it really worth it? RE040s certainly aren't the greatest, but they'll do until you can afford to get all four done. You need to get some Michelin PS2s on there matey, they're bloody awesome and have transformed mine big-time.