I'll be going as well, 3rd year on the trot now.
As for the Gendarmes ignoring the French drivers, they don't. They'll get anyone regardless of plate, it just seems like they get the French less because they're not stupid enough to speed during LM week. I got done for 750EU + instant driving ban for being an idiot on Mad Friday last year, despite knowing better and not speeding at all any other time.
I'll be getting there on Wednesday as I want to see free practice as well as qualifying, and the pit walk is a must do too. I'm just hoping for slightly better weather than last year, it was horrendous on the way there and back!