jables

Another +1 for Jez and Horsham Developments. I dropped in to get a set of Whiteline ARBs and Powergrid drop links fitted. Really friendly and professional service with a good magazine selection to boot .

After some diagnosis from Nissan to confirm my thoughts it turned out to be the body combination switch. I managed to source a used one from Alex so all fixed .

Sourced one from Alex so all fixed .

BUMP - reduced to £30.

I've lost all steering wheel controls including the horn and having checked all the connectors I can only think the spiral cable has had it. Anyone with a replacement new or old drop me a PM. Cheers. Chris

Cheers guys. I whipped the wheel off and checked all the connectors and still no joy . Looks like I'll be on the hunt for a new steering wire / spiral cable.

One by one my steering wheel controls have stopped working to the point that nothing works, including the horn. The air con also doesn't seem to kick in anymore although this might be a red herring and a separate issue. I'm inclined to think the spiral cable is knackered, what do you guys reckon? Is there anything more I can do to diagnose without the dreaded trip to my dealer?

As others have said, Chris Knott are good and competitive. Steer clear of Greenlight, their customer service was a disgrace when I needed it. I'm currently using Adrian Flux with a heavily modified car.

As mentioned, I love this look, I just wouldn't have the balls to actually click 'add to basket' though.

1419kg

I bought some black nuts from Rare Rims (also a trader on here) viewtopic.php?f=113&t=57255. I'm really pleased with them, especially for the price.

Can anyone give me some tips on touching-up the callipers? Do you need to sand the chipped areas first or just make sure they're nice and clean? Do you need to lacquer once you've finished painting?

I need to do mine soon and have this bookmarked ready

Nice, smooth graphs there! Mark fitted and mapped the UpRev GT MAF for me last week, a worthwhile mod when you're running that amount of power.

Another +1 for Mark and the guys at Abbey . I've used them for several years and more recently to get the new Z tuned up and ready for the good (read 'marginally better') weather. They're about 2.5hrs from me but well worth the long drive. As said before, what they don't know about Nissan's isn't worth knowing! Friendly, professional and always on-hand to offer advice.

Thanks. Special order from Japan back in 2009 but the importer's name escapes me! Front 19 x 9 +20 offset, rear 19 x 10 +20 offset so no need for spacers. I think there are a couple of other Z's on the forum with the same wheels.

I picked up the car from Abbey Motorsport on Saturday after a week of fettling. The main aim was to get the car checked over and running as safe as possible, without shedding too much grunt! The accepted 'safe' limit for the VQ35DE as a stock block is around 400 whp. The midrange torque is the big killer with the con rods being the weak link. Before tuning Abbey fitted a stage 1 fuel return system to manage the fuel pressure, an uprated MAF to read the full air flow range, uprated HKS spark plugs and some worn/cracked hoses replaced. Finally the piggyback FTC ECU was removed with the new UpRev map taking care of fuel timing. The boost controller now runs two pressures, 0.45 and 0.5 bar. Here are the dyno results: So at 0.5 bar it's running 404 whp (450ish at the crank) and 380 lb-ft of torque, more than enough for the time being until the handling is nailed. It's debatable whether you need much more power on the road or track, but the option is there with the turbo kit good for around 600 whp (uprated rods and pistons essential!). The car drives much smoother and crucially I have a bit more reassurance that it's gonna last a while before going bang.

Having owned my previous 350Z for 4 years I started casually looking through the classifieds to see if there was anything else that would tempt me away from the Z. Working from home I don't need a 'daily drive' car that often so something a little more track focused with more power were the main criteria. I then stumbled across a 54 plate 350Z with a SFR twin turbo conversion and only 28k miles on the clock owned by Lum. I still love Azure Blue, but despite the TT being ginger I could still see myself swapping cars. Running between 400-440 whp (480ish at the crank) with around 440 lb-ft torque the difference was certainly noticeable. The car has the punch that it deserves and arguably should've come with straight out of the factory. I quickly succumbed to the dark side and splashed the cash . I know, I know, it's bought not built, but I simply couldn't turn down the car at the price I paid. However, there's plenty of build work planned and it's already had its first trip to Abbey Motorsport (see below). This thread is also for my reference so I can keep track of the current spec and the car's history: SFR 350Z 60-1 Hi-Fi Twin-Turbo "Complete" System 2 x T3/T4 60-1 Hi-Fi Turbonetics turbos with ball bearing upgrade 2 x 321SS tubular low mount manifolds with burns stainless merge collectors 2 x 304SS downpipes 2 x Tial 38mm external wastegates Wesstech oil scavenge pump Aluminum oil sump Spearco front mount intercooler Pre-tuned Split Second FTC ECU 440cc drop in injectors Walbro 255 fuel pump All intake and intercooler piping with integrated AFM and HKS SSQV 2 x K&N low mounted air filters Oil cooler Koyorad R-Series 53mm aluminium radiator Blitz DSBC boost controller RPS Max Street clutch and flywheel HKS true dual 3" carbon titanium exhaust The turbos and piping are hidden low down so there's not much to see in the engine bay. I've also fitted a few bits from my old Z: 5Zigen ZR+520 19" wheels wrapped in Falken 452's DBA 4000 discs Ferodo DS2500 pads Nismo CF B-pillars Nismo Titanium gear knob On the highest boost setting the car runs 0.6 bar which Speed force Racing claim will make 440 whp. Day to day I'm running the car at 0.45 bar until I can afford forged internals! The install looks really professional with the turbos mounted down low so you can barely see any changes under the bonnet. 21 FEB 2012 UPDATE The ginger ninja has been UpRev mapped at Abbey Motorsport to run at lower boost for longevity and currently runs 404 whp and 380 lb-ft torque at 0.5 bar. The Split Second FTC ECU was removed as this is no longer required. New parts as follows: CJM stage 1 fuel return system to manage the fuel pressure UpRev MAF GT to read the full air flow range HKS Super Fire Racing spark plugs iridium heat range 8 Drive/aux belts and worn/cracked hoses replaced 25 JULY 2012 UPDATE A few new parts installed courtesy of Abbey Motorsport and Horsham Developments: Whiteline anti roll bars (front and rear) SuperPro suspension bush kit (front and rear) HKS braided brake lines

Any thoughts on how quickly the premium fuels like Tesco 99 and V-Power start to lose their octane over time sat in the tank? I didn't even realise fuel detiorated at all until recently! Are you possibly talking as much as 1-2 octane over a few weeks?

Any plans to order in the tonneau covers? I reckon they'd sell like hot cakes on here!

BUMP - still for sale, reduced to £35.

Cheers Chris, I wasn't sure if I'd found the correct section .

With the purchase of my new Z I noticed there was quite a lot of wind noise coming from the passenger window, particularly noticeable at motorway speeds. I tried the reset window procedure but no joy. The motor seemed fine as well. On close inspection with the window lowered about 8mm I noticed that it wasn't touching the upper rubber seal tightly all the way across, unlike the drivers side. I nearly bit the bullet and wasted £250 on a new rubber windshield (yes, £250 for a piece of rubber!) but then stumbled across the following page in the service manual: There's a tilt adjustment bolt that doesn't seem to get much of a mention having done some searching around. A few rotations was all that was needed to tilt the glass back in towards the upper seal so that it sat tight and flush with the seal. Wind noise gone. Cost £0

I'm about to install some front DBA's for the first time and noticed that very few tutorial videos mention checking the runout. Would a good garage go to the trouble of checking this or just install the discs and then check for any brake judder?

SOLD, please lock.