Chris`I

All looks good Mart

Ok so heres my/Amandas photos. Remember these 60 are cut down from over 700 taken James Bond museum pics to follow in another thread! Amandas camera (not bad for a P&S!): My camera (SLR):

+1 - but photobucket bombed on the last pic Trying bulk uploader now

Me and the missus too

I think it does Ad, just look at how fat each of the Nismos are before the Y and how restrictive the 5Zigen is. Its not even as fat as one side of the Nismo Y, let alone after its combined

This months is tomorrow 15th Sept. Unfortunately I cant make it this month, didnt realise it was so close and have a dinner arranged

Thats what I told him What I was saying is his AFR is already good, so the extra power most get from correcting it he wont get so much. But yes I agree with adjusting timings etc he will get something, just potentially not as much as others - so he may only get 5HP rather than 10HP for instance. FI is the way to go for sure unless you want one hell of a project car like Adams

Yup, thats why I dont get dynos. You just cant make sense of them unless mods are benched on the same day, same rollers, before and after mod. Something doesnt seem to add up, but the SSR guy seemed happy that Nurrish's dyno chart from RSTuning was reasonable

You're missing my point Mark. I'm not saying on someone elses rollers he will see something different, that is a give. What me and Ad were talking about was how much gain he would see on the same rollers with and without a remap/piggyback as he already has a strong car. Most have weird AFRs to say the least and a decent amount of the new found power comes from correcting it, however Ad was lead to believe his was much better already, so not so much gains to be had by tweaking them. Get it now? I was on about SRR vs RST vs Abbey numbers at all.

Sorry, I meant if Ad got a remap and re-ran it on SSR he wouldnt see much as the car is already running well. I agree, if he took it to RSTuning then he would see over 300BHP going by Nurrish's car

When I get a minute!

Mustnt grumble, Audi tried to charge my mum £60 to read her CEL

Indeed they do Although mine doesnt appear to work with imports or Nismo ECUs we've found!

Any decent garage should have a diagnostic tool that supports these basic OBD queries, its not a Nissan specific thing (yet)

We talked about that on the day. 2 obvious possibilities, either his would jump to over 300BHP on the SRR rollers or it would make sod all, we voted nearer the second. Apparently his fueling is already pretty good, whereas most of the others arent, so one of the corrections to get a bit more power wouldnt do much. Would certainly be interesting to see though. He was only 0.5BHP less than Mark and hasnt spent anywhere near as much on tuning (yet!)

vulture Thats true vulture! Also I havent posted on FB in ages, so do you think my friends think I'm dead?

I think someone would twig eventually, but it would be very hard to find out unless you know someone that personally knows the person you may fear the worst of

Classic Stew, classic

Looks like a great weekend from what I've seen of it, will deffo make it next year. Now more pics!

Congrats to the team, thats great news. Seen a few of the races on Ch4 on Sunday mornings and they looked to be doing very well to the forum btw

+1. How new is your "book"? Prices have been going back up recently due to demand, so you cant always go by what the book says. Some sell them cheaper, some sell them for more, see what they are willing to do

Lifted from - http://www.350z-tech.com/zwiki/Tutorial:ECU_Reset 1. Confirm that accelerator pedal is fully released, turn ignition switch “ON†and wait 3 seconds. 2. Repeat the following two procedures quickly five times within 5 seconds: 1. Fully depress the accelerator pedal (HARD). 2. Fully release the accelerator pedal. 3. Wait 7 seconds, fully depress the accelerator pedal and keep it for approx. 10 seconds until the CEL starts blinking. 4. Fully release the accelerator pedal (while the CEL is still blinking) 5. Wait about 10 seconds. 6. Fully depress the accelerator pedal and keep it for more than 10 seconds. 7. Fully release the accelerator pedal (The CEL light will continue to blink). 8. Turn ignition switch to “OFF†position and now you can start the car. The CEL light should be gone. I would get a code reader on it though James as you want to know what went wrong

I wouldn't say that the zed is an average family car? No, but higher value cars have gone up more

It was brilliant. You should also have seen the evil smile in Darrens face as he took the pics! I was stood next to Jerry so could see them both, it was hillarious! I darent think what Jerry used to be like with his Honda's revving to 9k RPM